Bustamatic

Yeah, I checked all other seal and no leaks. Seems like very light seepage. I am going to check the vent as well (if possible, it's on the top)and make sure its clean to help lower the pressure when it's hot. Thanks for the advice. 

Look under any car past a few years old and you are likely to see at least one point of a very minor leak. It is a fact of life and not related to any particular brand. As I usually buy a newer vehicle around 3 years old, this is one of the things that I look for. Even then, it is somewhat difficult to find a perfectly clean vehicle underneath.
 
As long as it is very minor, with no indication of even a drip on the floor, leave it IMO. If everything is operating correctly, just check the level, add any if necessary, and keep on driving. There is a very good chance that it is down barely at all. Consider it part of routine maintenance of an older vehicle to monitor any known leaks and address them when needed. You may never need too before the time comes to replace it. Just keep an eye on it periodically, depending on the amount of leakage.

facepalm. ^^

hey nino. heres a screenshot of the fill instructions for the 62TE transmission. I had to replace just over 5 quarts... I followed these instructions and after the initial 4 quarts(used a siphon pump), the dipstick read 10mm. I then added small amounts of  fluid (with a syringe) around ten times from start up to around 70C to get it to the right level.  I shifted through the gears before each read of the dipstick. Hope this helps. 

hey nino. heres a screenshot of the fill instructions for the 62TE transmission. I had to replace just over 5 quarts... I followed these instructions and after the initial 4 quarts(used a siphon pump), the dipstick read 10mm. I then added small amounts of  fluid (with a syringe) around ten times from start up to around 70C to get it to the right level.  I shifted through the gears before each read of the dipstick. Hope this helps. 

Hey @Bustamatic, looking at doing my transmission change out myself too. Just wondering... how much transmission fluid did you end up putting back in after the change? Also, for the graph... did you take readings at start up and then after a quick drive around? 
 
Thanks 

I think its the cold start,, the oil from the engine is hard to go thru inside (or pump),, my journey too experience it,, you will heard it in winter,,

The vehicle was not remote started, she got out and left it running... These vehicles will run until the first time you shut it off, even with out the key in the vehicle. There will be an annoying chiming the entire time, but the vehicle will remain running.

Sparkyssxt this is not the way the ignition works on the 2011 and up.
According to past posts.
If you start the DJ then get out and walk away it can still be driven
until the first time it is turned off ( there may be a timed sequence for auto off)
but I have not tested.
So in theory you could walk away someone could get in drive it backwards
hit the fence/whatever and either stall it or timer sequence happens - hence
mystery movement/damage.

Not sure where the "posting to get counts up" comes from.....anyway.... Automatic transmissions are not something the typical journey owner has the desire to work on or is capable of troubleshooting/diagnosing themselves. They leave it to the professionals. I've been wrenching on cars for the better part of 45 years. I won't touch an automatic transmission. That's something, to me, best left to the professionals. You got a diagnosis from professionals then asked for advise. I can tell you since I've been on this forum for 5-6 years, the knowledge you seek is not going to be found here. Sorry about that. Perhaps in the future.  Maybe try dropping the pan and replacing the filters and fluid. See it that helps. I'm quite sure no one has even done that here on this forum that I'm aware of since the system is sealed and dealer/shop serviceable only. Good luck to you.

sorry about double post site was acting up i guess...LOL
 

might go away after a few days of starting and stopping and if the journey is running okay,also you could run by a your local auto shop they have scanners and might be able to reset it for you.good luck and keep us informed.
 

Usually you have to clear the code regardless of the repair being done, at least in my experience. If the code comes back after being cleared, then you will definitely know if there are other issues. Here is one method (should work on a 2012 model)... 
 

Just a heads up for those attempting this. The o-ring where the filter plugs in is a real bugger to get out. Luckily it was brass so I was able top use a small flat screwdriver to lift the lip until it let go,(about 75% of the circumference of the o-ring). Also it is a fun job to get the new one back in, but patience is the key. lol

Just a heads up for those attempting this. The o-ring where the filter plugs in is a real bugger to get out. Luckily it was brass so I was able top use a small flat screwdriver to lift the lip until it let go,(about 75% of the circumference of the o-ring). Also it is a fun job to get the new one back in, but patience is the key. lol