Summer Solstice

Ok so just to be clear....using a bigger braking system will stop air from somehow getting into my line and I'll be able to stop using the brake pedal..... my brake pedal won't shake and I won't be able to just push it down to the floor only hearing air...? I've gotten a master cylinder and booster so that's not the case...but when I get my brakes bled I have great brakes...
 

Most states allow you to cancel a major purchase within a short period of time. If you are this unhappy, run, don't walk, and get your money back. You already have decided that the purchase was wrong for you. With a start like that, you will not be happy unless you cut now and move on.

Given your location, do you have any snow or ice build up between the windshield and the hood? I have found that when ice gets down into this area, it makes a very annoying rattling, clunking sound that sounds like the dash / windshield juncture. It is quite irritating.

Given your location, do you have any snow or ice build up between the windshield and the hood? I have found that when ice gets down into this area, it makes a very annoying rattling, clunking sound that sounds like the dash / windshield juncture. It is quite irritating.

I replaced a battery due to a bad cell. The symptoms, with all of the electronics, were all over the map, with different warning lights and odd behavior. It was a learning experience.
 
Rule out the battery and the alternator first. It does sound like a wiring issue. On an older car, I would be looking for a bad ground and/or connection.

Agreed. The problem, as you describe it, is not the common issue that the early Journeys had with brakes to small and excessive wear. What you describe is a loss of pressure and / or fluid. This is not a common issue to the Journey anymore than other brands. The fact that "nobody seems to know what is wrong with it" is because you need a better mechanic to diagnose the problem. If you have air in the system, you have a leak. If you are losing fluid, you have a leak. If the fluid is good but the peddle is soft, you have a mechanical problem at the end of the system with the actual braking components. If the peddle is hard and will not go down, you have a sticking caliper or a cylinder / valve problem. All vehicles can have these issues. You need a qualified mechanic to start.

Cheers mate. I'm contacting FCA Australia and hopefully get somewhere. Fingers crossed they honour the same warranty as the US on this issue. 

i use the upper vents and the floor vent position but then i turn the upper vents all the way up and towards the window, the air blows hits the windows and then bounces and hits the side of my ears seems to keep the side windows real clear and sends the air or heat to the rear the best...

Agree with 2late4u. Most of my vehicles have had this problem in very cold weather. The Journey is actually not too bad but I always use the defrost vent / floor setting for just this reason. Anything else and the side windows will begin to fog around the edges. The problem is worse if your door and window seals have any air leaks. Clean and treat the seals as part of your normal vehicle maintenance.

i have some fogging of the windows but nothing serious when it is really cold thank goodness i live in the south to be honest, i dont think i would like the journey in real cold northern states as the heater is not as good as it should be.

i remember about 15-yrs ago i was changing the oil on my truck and after i was all done i started it up and let it run for a few minutes then shut it off and let it settle for a few minutes and was checking the oil level everything was okay, i look underneath the truck for drips and oil was coming out of the side of the filter i thought wtf so i slid my clean oil pan under and shimmed back under the truck with my filter wrench and yes it was tight i though wth, so thought about it for a minute then decided to look at my old spin on filter and the oil gasket wasn't still attached to the filter, so i removed the new one and looked at the bottom of the oil pump surface,and there it was the old gasket stuck to the metal peeled it off re-wet the new gasket on the filter which i didnt really have to do as oil was everywhere by then LOL and re tightened everything and low and behold no leaks.... first time in all my years of changing oil that the gasket came off the old filter like that. so strange stuff like can happen so it pays to double check everything twice and to keep an eye on all their fluids under the hood, i still check my oil every week at least once. 

I've been having this same common issue in my 2016, which is not listed in the TSB. It only shows up in this sub-zero weather. Fortunately, if it poses a problem, I am covered under warranty.

Probably an O2 sensor code. Make a note to yourself, always get the actual code. 

Did you check the horn itself?

The wiring harness that runs from the main body roof to the top of the hatch gate is a known issue. Check the harness for fraying and breaks in the individual wires. There are numerous threads on here with others having problems with this harness.

Mechanical-idiot, I have a 2013 Dodge Journey RT AWD. One month ago while travelling across country my transmission pump went out which resulted in a catastrophic transmission failure. I just had a new transmission installed and 2 days later I started getting a thumping/rumbling sound from the rear of my vehicle. I just took it to Dodge and the drive train tech told me he is pretty sure it is the viscous unit. There is a small amount of fluid leaking from the seal between the viscous unit and rear differential. I will take it back on Thursday so they can pull it apart to confirm the problem. Your posts were very helpful. Thanks!

The wiring harness that runs from the main body roof to the top of the hatch gate is a known issue. Check the harness for fraying and breaks in the individual wires. There are numerous threads on here with others having problems with this harness.

Did you check the horn itself?

The wiring harness that runs from the main body roof to the top of the hatch gate is a known issue. Check the harness for fraying and breaks in the individual wires. There are numerous threads on here with others having problems with this harness.

The wiring harness that runs from the main body roof to the top of the hatch gate is a known issue. Check the harness for fraying and breaks in the individual wires. There are numerous threads on here with others having problems with this harness.

I changed the PTU fluid today and wanted to pass along some lessons learned.
1) It wasn't practical for me to fill the PTU using the fill plug, so I opted to modify the drain plug for fill/drain and it worked well.
2) Modification included drill/tap drain plug for 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT fitting and 1/8" NPT plug drilled for safety wire (see pix's).
3) I used Mobil 1 LS 75W-90 synthetic and warm it up first to help it pump easier.
4) Use oil transfer pump with longer 3/16 diameter pick-up tube so it can reach the bottom of the bottle https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5) Remove exhaust support bracket so you can get both hands in position to remove the fill hose, cover the drain hole after filling, and get the 1/8" plug threaded into the drain plug. I suggest you try this many times with a dry PTU... practice makes perfect... and less clean up.
6) Mark the bottle so you know when you reach the 28 oz. point. I added an additional 1 to 1.5 oz in case I spilled any while performing tube removal after filling. It should be noted that the fill hose had a snug fit into the pipe fitting so it sealed well. I added some electrical tape to the tube in case I needed to create a seal between the tube and fitting (see pix). I also used Permatex thread sealant #59214 (high temperature).
7) Use safety wire on the 1/8" pipe plug to keep everything in place since the installation torque will be lower because you'll be tightening the 1/4" NPT fitting to seat the factory drain plug.
8) Reinstall the exhaust support bracket and add a dab of antiseize to the exhaust bolt for future removal.
 
Note: I recommend changing the fluid every 20K miles, that cat will cook the PTU fluid and changing regularly is cheap insurance. Additionally, I looked at using the PTU vent tube as a fill port, but it was easier to use the drain plug. You can use the vent tube but you can only add 2 oz. at a time until the trapped air in the PTU case is "burped" to allow the fluid to fill. Forcing the fluid with pressure will potentially create a leak path past one of the seals. 

anything above 230* might be an issue- below that no issue

From the owners manual:
 
18. Temperature Gauge
 
The temperature gauge shows engine coolant temperature. Any reading within the normal range indicates that the engine cooling system is operating satisfactorily. The gauge pointer will likely indicate a higher temperature when driving in hot weather, up mountain grades, or when towing a trailer. It should not be allowed to exceed the upper limits of the normal operating range

Could be a module in the transmission, or a bad connector/wiring or a serious internal issue. If you are a DIY type of person and have the means, drop the pan and do a fluid/filter change. 

keep us informed with pictures and cost of what you do...