Armando G

I will say, you are one of the 'lucky' ones that has gone way too long without performing regular maintenance, and the car has kept on going. Good for you and definitely a great selling point for the DJ. I've owned non maintained cars in the past, and unfortunately it's ended in a very bad way (blown engine, slipping tranny, ruined front end, etc). Should kind of feel like a new car after all of that work you did on it. Good luck with the van...I'm glad I'm done with the van phase of my life now that my 4 kids are pretty much grown, but our van did serve us very well as a family.

It does look clean. Personally, I like the emblems...no bumper stickers of any kind though. Good job.

I've been curious about that thing as well. It looks like you have to install some screws in order to get the brackets on(?). Hopefully someone already has one and can give us an honest opinion. Although, how can you go wrong when it has "HIGHHARDNESS"!?!?!

Welcome. Nice to hear from someone who is happy with their DJ...still loving mine. Do you have a long commute, or just take a lot of trips?

I found a great site that has some information on this subject...

This might be the same issue you are having. Friend of mine had the issue with his 2010...

Not only does the life of your brakes depend on your driving style, but it also depends on the maintenance/upkeep of your car. I am impressed on the how long and well my brakes on my 2015 have lasted and how much more life they seem to have left (currently at 48K miles). When I started hearing that well known creaking noise somewhere on my front axle I thought it would affect the life of my brakes, but so far so good. My old 91 Explorer had great brakes that lasted and performed very well. When my daughter took the car over, she got less than half the life on the brakes. She had also not told me that she heard a clunk every once in a while when she hit the brakes. There were some bushings in the suspension that were causing the brakes to wear very quickly. Anyway, after the bushings were changed, next set of pads lasted much longer (I averaged 50-60K on each set of pads...had the car to about 290K miles). Lesson here kids, maintain your car

Welcome to group. Congrats on your new fun project.

Are you talking about this thing? I kind of like it as well. Couple of different car makes have this style (seen it on the rental cars I use).

Good looking Journey...you'll love it. Welcome.

Welcome. Funny how here in northern CA these cars are not that popular yet. I didn't even know they existed until about two years ago (when I bought mine), and I still questioned as to what type of car I am driving. I am seeing more of them, but I still get excited when I see one (probably once a week) driving down the road. Always wonder if that guy is on the forum. So what's it look like now?

BTW...the underbody lights are listed in the link I attached. Here is the direct link to those lights...just scroll down. http://www.yourhotcar.com/product/list/Dodge/Journey/Police_Light_Sound/LED_Strobes/

The .kwi format should be correct. There is usually a problem if there is something else on the card. Make sure you format the card (I believe FAT32) and only copy the update onto it. If there is something else it will not be able to read it correctly. If it is the only thing on the card, format it again and load the file onto it again. The file may have gotten screwed up on the transfer.

Disconnect the battery (negative terminal) for about 20-30 minutes and let it all reset/refresh. You're not the only one with this issue.

That would be your parking light.

Welcome to the group. It may not be the first choice, but for the price it's definitely a very good choice.

Summer Solstice, nice job with the write up...funny how many people have no idea how to do this because of their auto club memberships. Anyway, thanks for taking the time and damn you seem like a positive person... ;-)

So having done this job myself from start to finish, here is what I have for you. The wiring harness you are referring to (56109) is for the non-LED model. If you have the non-LED model, which I doubt, that harness plugs in to the light harness itself, not the special connector behind the bumper. If you have the LED lights, you need to buy part #56330, which comes with the converter and has to be wired to the battery. If you are looking for the harness that connects to the special plug behind the bumper, you need to go to the dealer to purchase it and get it flashed (anywhere from $70 - $200 for the part and another $50-$200 to flash...depending on the dealership). I chose not to buy the wire for the special plug simply because after speaking with three dealerships, I wasn't confident enough to let them them do it. I got 2 different part numbers from the three dealerships and one was not sure if it could be flashed. I installed the Curt wiring harness #56330 and it has worked amazingly. No issues and the stability function still works. Hope that helps and good luck.

OK, I think you just blew my mind. What other lever are you referring to? I ran down to my car and couldn't figure it out (it is dark outside). Are you saying you can slide it back and then up? Can you maybe take a picture of the other lever you are talking about? That would be kind of cool.

Welcome. I like the black rims on the white paint. Sounds like it was good deal and looks great.

Definitely been painted not to match. You also mention the carfax report, but we all have to remember that everything on those reports are issues that have been reported. If I scrape my car on a tree or big nasty pole, chances are I am not telling anyone (mostly from embarrassment), but also because I don't want my insurance to go up and because I don't want to drive a car with a scrape. I know plenty of body shop guys, and I am sure there is one or two who will give me great 'cash' deal with minimal or no paperwork. They are very helpful reports, but unfortunately we still have to remember the old saying, "Buyer beware" before buying anything. A two hour drive would be worth it in my opinion. Good Luck.

So I guess the moral of the story here is not the dash cam itself, but how it was installed. Out of curiosity, was the kill switch what was advised to you or your best band-aid to the problem? I would honestly want to get the dash cam rewired so it does not draw anything when the car is off since I am presuming the kill switch is manual. What if you forget to hit the kill switch? Or am I way off on what I am picturing? Maybe the dash cam has a motion sensor for security? Just curious because I am considering an aftermarket backup cam.

Here's the link to transform your vehicle to a "genuine" police car...<<<good luck not getting pulled over>>> http://www.yourhotcar.com/product/list/Dodge/Journey/Police_Light_Sound/

I remember those days...I eventually ended up with four kids and two car seats. That led to me hesitantly going out and buying a full size Windstar van (when we had our third). Although I did not enjoy driving a van, it made life so much easier. Plenty of room for the double stroller and other stuff, and I just opened the door and they all made their way to their seats as we set the carrier in. I don't really think any SUV is ideal for two+ car seats unless you have the captain seat model (I think those are the monster size SUV's). I would definitely consider the rear hatch option before removing seats and I would definitely advise getting a rooftop carrier of some sort for the long trips. I have the less expensive Jegs rooftop carrier and it makes trips so much easier. I'm curious if there is even enough room to fit two car seats in the 60% portion of the 2nd row seat, and how stable the one hanging off the open side would be since I believe a portion of it would extend off the side. I totally understand your dilemma.

Thanks for updating your post. Another sensor that we have to worry about...fun.