Armando G

None of the harnesses should require a hole to be drilled...if they do, buy another one. The Curt harness works great and the factory harness should only be used if you have the pre-installed wire present (in my opinion) and are ready to pay to have it flashed. My dealer wanted $150 for what they say is the correct harness and another $200 to flash...made the decision to go with the Curt harness much easier and it has worked amazingly every time I use it. I remove the fuse when not in use and have not had any issues at all.

All I can say...I miss the good ole days of almost no electronic controls, minimum sensors, and easy access to everything. I cross my fingers that mine will not have these issues every time I read these posts.

I would advise reading all of the info on the Durango site (http://www.dodgedurango.net/) to get a feel of your situation. My brother has a Durango and we have towed about 5500lbs, and it felt pretty good. The same trailer was previously pulled by a Suburban, which was really smooth, but the Durango actually impressed me. If I didn't buy the DJ I was looking at a Durango. The price difference made the final decision for me at the time. The Durango I really wanted would of cost me over $50K, while the DJ I went with was under $20K...big difference. In any case, from all of the choices you listed, the Durango would be my vote.

I would of never thunk...would love to see the inside of that thing.

Good looking ride. Looks like it was well taken care of.

Side note...warranty link will not work without the 's' at the end - http://www.chryslerfactoryplans.com

Interesting, I don't think I've ever turned my back wiper on in the almost 3 years I've owned it. I'll have to try it tonight with the extinguisher in hand. Was this a past issue, or are the 2015's+ also having this issue?

Side Note... OhareFred, you sound just as excited as the new owner of the car. I love all the information you are putting out...I feel that way when I see new member's pics. Reminds me when I was walking up to mine the day I was picking it up.

If you are going to test it yourself, start with any aftermarket items installed on the vehicle (if any). Sometimes radios, amps, radar detectors, backup cameras or other added items are connected wrong, or are just a big draw for the battery. Don't forget to check the relays as well.

Love all of the responses to his comments. I am curious if that was his first AND last post? It seems like living with these 'issues' was unnecessary if he bought it with low miles and a factory warranty covering these things.

Congrats and welcome. How's the car so far? Any pics yet?

I'm with lmoore1436, clicking usually means not enough juice coming from the battery. I would personally try connecting jumper cables and see if that makes a difference and/or getting the battery checked. Otherwise it would seem like a loose connection somewhere that would be hard to guess at without more investigating.

Weird, this CA law actually says different. Vehicle Code 21750. Adequate muffler required In summary all cars and other motor vehicles must be equipped with a muffler, and any exhaust modifications must not be designed to increase the exhaust noise above 95 dbA.

Here is a post from onecrazyfoo4u who drained his coolant (with a link to the post)...you may want to contact him directly... Finally got around to doing this. I was only able to get about 6 quarts of fluid in after the change. That's just the capacity of the radiator, reservoir bottle, and hoses it seemed like. So over half the fluid you can't get it since it's stuck in the HVAC system. I drained it, then refilled with water. Let it warm up and circulate fluid, then drained again and refilled with fluid. When I refilled, I open the bleeder screw on the hose by the thermostat mount. I'm not too concerned with only changing out half the fluid. Fluid looked perfect coming out, at 105k miles of hot desert usage. BTW, the radiator drain petcock is the worst ever. You loosen it completely, and it only pisses out a tiny stream, would take an hour to drain. So you have to loosen all the way and pull the whole valve out, making a huge mess all over yourself. But whatever, it's done now. The hardest part of the job was taking out the dozen bottom air dam panel fasteners without trying to break them!

Welcome to the forum. Enjoy the new car.

Thanks for the update. It seems like one of those things that we just get used to on our cars, but that would seem to be bothersome and an issue that could lead to something bigger. I would take it to a specialty transmission shop and see if they notice it and have any suggestions.

I love all the input from all the members, other than the original poster...just saying. <<<One post wonder???>>>

Ditto to what Naval said. I would only add, make sure the top of your screw went all the way through the square plate that locks the screw. If that is not lined up correctly the screw won't go through the whole way.

Dude, that is cool!!! I wish i could do that to mine, but being in California we have very strict smog laws and I think removing the muffler isn't even an option. Sounds great...good job.

Let it heat up to normal temp and check/listen for any steam/smoke and narrow it down to that location (assuming it was smoking from the engine compartment, not the exhaust). My best guess is going to be a failing water pump just because you described an exact situation I went through. The water pump has the safety plug that starts failing intermittently and eventually all the way. Hopefully it's just a hose that needs replacing. You also want to make sure the clamps on the house ends are nice and tight and have not cut into the hose causing a leak at high pressure. FYI...if the smoking was from the exhaust, there is a much bigger issue going on.

There's another post on here concerning the FOBs not working correctly when too close to your cell phone. I noticed that when I have my FOB in the same pocket as my cell phone it doesn't always work. I then take my FOB out of my pocket and it still doesn't work until I push lock and then unlock. I assume the signal is disturbed somehow and it stops it from working. I tested the theory out and it proved to be correct. Then I realized that my handle thingy/button (not sure what it is called) wasn't locking the door if I stuck my phone in the same pocket as my FOB. I am now re-training myself to put my phone in the opposite pocket and no problems yet.

Engine replacement, probably about $3000-$3500 if you buy used. If it is a rattle you may get away with getting the rods fixed/replaced (if there is no further damage). I would find out why they say you need a new engine...is it because they don't want to try to fix it, or because you can't fix the problem. Engine shop should be able to give you more information and tell you if it is repairable. How many miles are on the vehicle? How is the condition of the rest of it? This would determine your next step, junk or repair.

Wonder what ever happened with this? Grapeguy any updates??? Is the car running better? Did you do the ride along? I need closure!!! :-))

First of all I would like to say thank you for being thorough on your post and on your diagnosis of the issue. From what it seems, you are at the point of trying to narrow the issue down and pinpoint the actual problem. Personally I would want to take it into the shop to either figure out what the problem is, or repair the issue. If you are selling it, you don't want anyone coming back to you if they have a problem, unless you are trading it in to a dealer with a shop available to them. You also don't want anything bad happening to the new owner. If the problem is fixed and comes back after you sell it, you can simply have them go back to the shop who did the work too correct it and no headache for you. Most shops will warranty their work for a certain amount of time. I am sorry I can't offer a fix, but like you started, these codes come with many possible fixes and would not want to suggest one that is not the issue. In similar situations with other cars I've owned, it's become a hit or miss situation and it hasn't always been a hit on the first try. Good luck...Hopefully you're selling to get a newer model DJ ;-)

km, it takes a lot of patience and time to change those plugs. After helping someone do the job, I am saving up to take mine to the dealer/mechanic when needed. My dealer quoted $250 to my friend, but after actually doing it I believe it might be worth it. I think I am on that same, 'As I get older, as cheap as I may be, I prefer to let someone else do the work'. If there is an issue, you can just bring it back. With that said, I do miss the days of just pulling the wires out and unscrewing the plugs...it seemed to work just fine DAMNIT!!!