weasey31

thanks for the confirmation guys!
Yeah I took a 13mm wrench on it to loosen it. once i cracked it loose I knew that it should  unscrew with just the fingers but for some reason it was still hard. i had to wrench it all the way to get it out. that's when I saw the threads coming out on the plug and were broken. 

The low battery voltage code is common after a dead battery. The Autostick code P0957 is likely a glitch related to the battery condition, especially if all transmission functions are normal. Is your battery original? If so, replace it - after five years and a complete drain, it is done. When you disconnect the battery to replace it, all the codes will then be erased.

Since my dipstick broke near the top, I was able to get it out by drilling a small pilot hole and then put a small screw in there and then pulling that out. the trick is to do it while the engine is hot since that is when it is the most "stuck" and you will have no worry of accidentally pushing the dipstick further down the tube. Then after you put the screw in, you wait until the engine cools down. Then pull on the screw and the dipstick will come out easy. It is important not to drill all the way through to the other side as there is a possibility of getting plastic bits into the engine oil. You just need to drill enough so that the screw threads catch onto the plastic.
When I put in the new dipstick, I was surprised at how much more "loose" it was when pushed all the way in. I haven't done this yet, but I bet that it would have no problem being pulled out when the engine is hot... maybe they changed the diameter of the plastic due to all the broken dipsticks.

Here is info on replacing the thermostat in your Journey if your are doing it yourself:
3.5L Engine
WARNING Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain cooling system.
Remove engine cover.
Disconnect radiator upper hose from thermostat housing.
Remove thermostat housing bolts.
Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.
Thermostat—3.5L engine
To install:
Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
Install thermostat and gasket into thermostat housing. For ease of installation, install bolts in housing for thermostat and gasket retention.
Install thermostat and housing to Intake manifold. Tighten bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamp.
Install the engine cover.
Refill cooling system.
Connect negative cable.

sounds like you need to change the front hubs , if the passenger side is going the drivers side should be changed too.. left hand turns puts more preasure on that hub.  if it was making noise on right hand turns then suspect the drivers side hub the squeak is from the sway bar bushings which is is very easy to fix and cheap. 
 
best way is to raise the car up on jacks and jack stands and push pull pry etc to see what's loose. 
 
ball joints , sway bar end links etc but the growling i bet is your front hub bearings getting worn ... it's not a hard job to your self either , 
 
find a trusted shop (non dealer) ... but bottom line is your front hub is bad...

Your Journey uses something called an Intelligent Battery Sensor which helps control the charging system. It is located on the negative battery cable terminal end. After it is disconnected and reconnected, it goes through a recalibration procedure. This is from the service manual:
 
OPERATION
The Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) contains a low value resistor, or shunt. The shunt creates voltage drop, which is read by an internal microcontroller to determine the current flow in and out of the battery. In addition to the shunt, the IBS contains a sensor to monitor the battery’s temperature. Data gathered by the IBS, including temperature, voltage, and current measurements, are transmitted over a LIN communication bus to either the Body Control Module (BCM) or the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), depending on the application. The IBS serves two primary purposes. The first is to provide the Powertrain Control Module (or PCM) with both immediate and historical battery information, so the PCM can precisely control the charging system. The second purpose is to provide data to the BCM for operation of the load-shedding feature. A fused power circuit and the LIN bus are connected to the IBS though a two-terminal connector.
In addition to real-time measurements, the IBS transmits some calculated battery data over the LIN bus, including state of charge, state of health, and state of function. These values are calculated by storing measurements over time.
The battery sensor is readable/diagnosable via a “scan tool” that can display all of the available parameters needed for vehicle servicing or trouble shooting.
Information the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) transmits out on the CAN Bus is
 
 
SOC = Battery state of charge (or SOC) is expressed as a percentage. The IBS calculates the SOC based on measured voltage, and charge and discharge rates. Therefore, SOC is not a direct percentage of battery voltage. SOF = Battery State of Function: Battery state of function (or SOF) is a calculated prediction of the lowest voltage the battery will drop to during engine cranking. The PCM and BCM use this calculated information to optimize vehicle power management for increased fuel efficiency. The data transmitted from IBS is interpreted and sent over the CAN network by the module connected the IBS’s LIN bus.
 
When the IBS is powered up for the first time or is powered after a power disconnection, it enters a “recalibration” phase, where the IBS must recognize the type of battery and its characteristics and state. In this phase the tolerances on the state functions (SOC, SOF) are greater than in normal working condition. When IBS is disconnected from the battery, the device loses its stored memory. When power is restored, the IBS starts a relearn process. Until the relearn process is complete, accurate battery state information is unavailable to other vehicle systems. The IBS relearn process requires five normal, operator initiated starts with at least four hours normal or more during cold ambient conditions of engine off time between each start. Usually, the process takes a few days of vehicle operation to complete. Remember, the relearn process is restarted every time power is reconnected to the IBS.
If the IBS is faulty it cannot be serviced, it must be replaced.
 

So I got my Journey in November and this will be the third time my remote start is not working, when I hit the button 2x either it doesn't start at all or it starts and after about 45 seconds just shuts down the engine. This is a big inconvience to keep bringing it to get serviced, has anyone else experienced this problem? Any suggestions, can I ask to have the product replaced if it happens again?

Hi,
Wondering if anyone else with a 2010 Dodge Journey 3.5L engine model is having similar engine lashing / ticking sounds?
I saw a TSB in another forum for similar 3.5L engine used in previous Dodge vehicles and up to 2009 Dodge Journey and this was supposed to have been addressed by then.
However it is still occurring in my engine so it appears either my engine hasn't been addressed with the updated parts or the updated parts do not last as well and causing the same ticking /.lashing noise of the lifters.
Took it to the dealer a second time after it was making the same loud noise and the technician simply said to the service advisor it's the engine TSB.
So he ordered the parts and my car is in to be fixed. Don't know how many days it will be and they have no loaner. Yikes.
Anyone else with similar issue and had a fix with the dealer? I only have a 5-year powertrain warranty being in Canada so time is running out.

Hi
I own a 2009 Journey and I have been having starting issues for some time now. Usually when it won't start I move the shifter back and forth back to Park and then the car starts right up, not sure what that is and I have also taken my Journey to the dealer and they can never find anything wrong with it. Sometimes in hot weather seems to happen more often.

I just had P0305 code and engine shudder around 1500 rpm. I replaced all spark plugs today (mileage is 105,000). Hope that fixes it. Also swap coil packs from #5 to the front. This way if you get a different Pcode then it is a bad coil Pack.
 

I have an '09 R/T. I changed my oil last October with Amsoil full synthetic. After 3,000 miles the oil was completely burnt up and there was very little oil left on the dipstick. I thought it was odd, but ordered a different type of Amsoil full synthetic, at Amsoil's advice. I changed the oil on New Year's day of this year. I check my oil regularly... maybe not every single week, but usually a couple times a month. I checked my oil last night and I only have a sliver of oil left on the SAFE part of the dipstick, and the oil is starting to smell burnt and look dark. I've only put 2,500 miles on this oil since the oil change. This is Amsoil full synthetic, not some bargain brand dino oil. I have had tremendous results with this oil in other cars for years. I can usually get at least 15,000 miles per oil change out of this oil, and sometimes as much as 20,000. There is something seriously wrong here. It's one thing for a vehicle to burn a little oil and have to add a quart here and there. But we're not talking a quart here and there, we're talking burning through some of the best synthetic oil on the planet in a mere 2,500 miles.

Hello, 
I purchased a used 2009 Dodge Journey in March with only 93,000 miles on it and it really seemed to work great!!  Love how it drives, although the cooling isn't all that great...but maybe that is an issue or just the way it is.  
 
At any rate, about a month ago after a trip into the City, about 40 miles I noticed the the distinct smell of overheating, the burning of antifreeze on a hot ..but I couldn't see anything wrong at all...and no smoke/steam or anything.
 
This happened a few times, but nothing major and the coolant only seemed to be down a bit so topped it off.  
 
This past Sunday my husband came home from work and the area around the radiator was steaming like crazy, it really smelled bad of antifreeze and it was almost empty, so my husband topped it off and about an hour later checked to make sure there wasn't any leaking on the ground, and there wasn't, so we went to the movies...about 5 mile drive, it was cold so the heater was on, but only cold air for the first 5 minutes (odd it usually kicks in within 60 seconds), then it slowly got hot...again when we parked it was steaming and smelled bad, but no leaking.
 
My husband picked up some more antifreeze and it was low again so he filled it up.  Next morning we dropped it at the Dodge Dealership near us.
 
Mechanic calls later that day and says it's the freeze plugs and it's 10 hrs labor...$1500.  I have insurance for major issues, but these are not covered...but said of course go ahead.
 
Got a call today that they discovered that the radiator is cracked and needs to be replaced...after asking if we saw fluid on the ground or if we were overheating at all...which we were not according to the internal sensors.  So now we have to wait for the inspector to come by to approve the repair.
 
My question is this...would the freeze plugs have ruptured (not sure if that is exactly the right term) because of the cracked radiator, or would the cracked radiator be a result of the ruptured freeze plugs?
 
I ask because the whole repair will be covered by the insurance if the cracked radiator caused the freeze plug problem.
 
Thanks
Shannix11

I have a 2009 Journey with close to 13,000 miles on it. Not long after getting my car last July (08) I noticed on left turns it would make a noise. They replaced my steering resevoir. That sound has went away. For those who have experienced this.
My car has a skaking to it. There are times it shakes so bad if feels like the car will fall apart. It happens mostly between 40-60 mph. It has caused my check engine light to come on. When it shakes violently the check engine light blinks and dings. I does it at random times. Some days it happens a lot and other day hardly at all.
The dealership cannont find the problem. When they have my car it does not do it for them. I have read through the post on here and wondered if anyone has had this fixed? If so did it stop? One person said for them it was a #5 piston. Just wanted to see if there were others this worked for...
Today I noticed my remote start did not work. I paid extra money for it and it is nice when winter rolls around...is the remote start part of the problem above? Either way it will be mentioned to the service department when they decide to call me again. They were supposed to get me a car to use for a night so they could figure out what is going on with mine. JUST WANT ISSUE RESOLVED! Scared to drive my car too far away in fear it will break down and I won't have cell phone coverage.
Please let me know of any issues like this I can suggest to my dealership.
Thanks for reading my post.

Like Dhh3,  mount a 255/50r119.
Will fit with no issues. See my gallery.

Hey all
I am new to DJ world and I have a 2014 RT with stock 225/55/19 tires. I would like to run a 255/55/19. the tire size difference is plus 1.3 inches tall and plus 1.14 inches wide. I was thinking of using a Wrangler off road rated spacer to accommodate for the size difference. Any thoughts?

I have 2009 3.5L. Bought it one year ago. I noticed same thing on my oil dipstick on periodic  checks. It eats some oil and I have no leaks either.  I thought the same thing with the coolant.  There is no change in the color of coolant at the  overflow reservoir.

Teamsmc,
Yes, i have the same vehicle. call your local dodge dealer. Just have your VIN ready. I have been on a waiting list since August 2015.

TX cz dad,
Did the dealer get back to you about the warranty?

Took the DJ for its yearly inspection. They said the left turn signal turns on but does not stay on and I have a torn motor mount right side?
I was taken back by hearing this. I never realized this. Going to take a look at it today.

I had to take a short trip to New Jersey last week. A friend of mine went with me. I turned on my left signal light for passing a car, and then the right one for going back in my lane. For some reason, the signal light did not self cancel. All of a sudden my friend noticed a picture of the front of the car on the small center screen. I saw the image of the car with the right front signal light blinking and a warning to turn it off. First time in a year of ownership that I ever saw this. Anyone else seen this?

This is the stock look of worn down 225/55-19 tires. Tire tread is exposing Washington's head on a quarter. Will not pass inspection.
In Feb, I will put on new 255 tires and take the same pictures to show the difference.

Images showing DJ front bumper over the generations.
2009 Front bumper "old style "
2011,12,13 front bumper "new style"
Crossroad edition "bumper bar"

For all the first generation owners wanting that new front baja bumper bar on there 2009/2010. The 2011, 2012, 2013 lower front bumper (new style) seems dimensionaly the same for form fit and function.
I see nobody has done it on these forums. No postings found about this using the search bar.
The 2011,2012 "Crew" Chrysler part drawings show the bumper mounts are the same and the only diffrence was the lower front fascia over the first gen one. See pic.
The 2014 "Crossroad" Chrysler drawings on other hand show different looking bumper mounts so the fittment might not be a direct drop replacement although the entire front fascia is the same and would fit with some tweaking from behind the curtain. See pic.

I agree with woah322. dhh3, thanks for the photo postings.

@dhh3- the only thing I would change is get some 3m adhesive remover and get rid of the decal from the dealer under the journey badging. I hate when dealerships do that , the first thing I did was threw out the license plate brackets and removed all dealer branding