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Bogs down @ 35mph, vribrates excessively, and when cold loud rattle (sounds like loose exhaust)


SimGirls

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Bought my V6 AWD July 2017. Had no problems, average mpg around town 19-21, highway 24-25. Lots of power. I previously had 4 cylinder FWD journey and had worse mpg and no power. 

 

October I began to notice a slight decrease in the mpg's nothing major. The colder it got the worse it got. To the point of driving on the interstate where I would usually get about 24+ mpg, I ended up with 13.9 and it sounded like the whole exhaust system was going to fall off my car. 

 

Brought to the dealership, they changed the air filter and said it was good to go. None the less, leaving the dealership the vibration, lack of power, and rattle where all still present. I have been bringing it to the dealership since December 12th. Just brought in yesterday 2/21/2019. 

 

So the resolution from the dealership in my area was ... If I need more power going uphill (as that is when the bog down is significantly noticeable) I was informed to utilize the +/- on my shifting column to down shift to gain that extra power needed. Well, I may be a female, but I am not a dumb person. That is completely unacceptable from a dealership. This complaint has been recorded with Chrysler FCA as throughout this process I have been in contact with them as well. 

 

They have legit not changed a single part on my car. Only advise to me that there is nothing they can do for it. I have to accept that after almost 2 years my performance and mpg's have all the sudden changed, and that it the way it will be.

 

They did find that under the hood, the ECM was banging against the frame (causing  a rust spot) so they corrected the spacing, and are hopeful that at least the rattle will be subsided. However, it still makes the noise. 

 

I questioned from the beginning the catalytic converter - but was told because there is no check engine light that can not be the problem. I had experienced 2 instances of smelling rotten smell within the vehicle, the loud (penny in a tin can sound) rattle, and the reduced mpg's. However, they disagree. So after literally doing this since December I asked yesterday about the ECM being bad ... and if they checked that. They advised again, nope its not that, just the way the car is. He can not explain what would have changed in the last 3 months but its a non fixable item.

 

Does anyone else have this problem, experience/knowledge, or had this fixed??! I would LOVE input!

 

My car has 47,700 miles - Still has several components covered under factory warranty. I bought another warranty that covers it until 125,000 and its got a certified pre-owned warranty until 100,000 miles ... yet no one will try to rectify this! HELP!

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first off i would defiantly got to a different dealership for  repairs, i was first thinking of the catalytic converter myself reading your post i had one go bad on my mustang and my sons camaro  had one go bad but if its getting plugged up it will quickly not let the engine even start. as i said try a different dealership and keep track of your paperwork to prove  your problems good luck

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1 hour ago, 2late4u said:

first off i would defiantly got to a different dealership for  repairs,

Most definitely take it to a different dealer.

 

I recently posted to another thread about my experience between two dealers. In summary, the dealer I bought the vehicle from will never see my shadow in the door again. The dealer that I use now has impressed me more than once, even on the little things. There is no comparison.

 

What you are experiencing is NOT normal. The dealer that you are currently working with is NOT fixing the problem. Your vehicle is still under warranty and has a serious issue that CAN be fixed by a competent dealer. In my case, when I sought out the second dealer, I did not even mention the first one. I wanted to test the second dealer and the integrity of the first one. The second dealer passed.

 

Speculation on what the problem is is moot at this point. The possibilities range from the simple to the complex. It does not matter. It is a warranty issue. You paid for that warranty. It is time for a return on that investment. Keep corporate involved. Be polite but firm. Give the new dealer a chance. You know what the vehicle should do and what it should not.

 

Good luck.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok - So I tried another dealership ... because the "rattle" is not loud when the weather is warmer ... there is nothing they can do either UNLESS i have a check engine light on. There is vibration felt through the gas/brake peddle, and through the floor board (he felt it as well) but it is not significant. He stated that he could spend hours on it, replacing parts and costing me a ton without a resolution. 

 

So I am here pleading - I need guidance on where to start, what to look at ... 

 

The biggest issue is the bogging down which it still does between 35-40 MPH, and up hills - cruise control fluctuates ... I feel like its not getting air ...but whatever the issue is - HAS NOT thrown any codes for any sensors/emissions, nothing ..  

 

I am willing to try some minor things myself .... but not even sure where to begin. Its a 2017, I have 49,105 miles, AWD I have not had any parts changed on this vehicle since purchase. I bought it with 14,000 miles July 2017. 

 

IN reading other forums some things thrown out there: 

 

Misaligned tires (but mine appear to be wearing normal) Defective Fuel Pump, Clogged Fuel Filter, Dirty Oxygen Sensor, Dirty Fuel Injectors, Bad/Dirty Spark plugs, malfunctioning mass air flow sensor ... I feel that the majority of these items would throw a code ... or light. So I am trying to see if I can locate the root cause of my issues, considering no one else seems bothered by it.

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I think your list of possibilities is good.  Have you taken the service manager for a ride to demonstrate?  Even without a light, poor gas mileage and lack of power is a problem that is their responsibility to fix.  I know some service departments will push back.  If you can't find any dealership to take you seriously,  then...   

First, get a private mechanic opinion.  Maybe they can fix it.  Second, why not run some techron or other fuel injector cleaner through it over the next couple of tanks?  Third,  I'd change the spark plugs.  It's kind of a PITA job.  Do it yourself or have it done by a competent mechanic, whatever. 

If any of your interventions fixes the problem,  document the hell out of it, and present the bill to the dodge dealership of your choice.  

 

That's what I'd do.  At least initially.  Good luck.

 

Peace.

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Thank you for the response! Yes I have actually taken the service Manager from BOTH dealerships for rides, in addition to 2 other people. The difficult thing for me - my bumper to bumper warranty is out! The factory only covers certain powertrain things - but has to be diagnosed (which CLEARLY they do not do unless the dummy light is on). So both dealerships are willing to work on it - if I am willing to pay the bill.  I am getting nothing BUT push back. 

 

I will do the fuel injector cleaner and change the plugs and see if/what difference that makes. I document EVERYTHING anyways! I will update once these have been completed and see!

 

Thanks again! 

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well you still have the power train warranty that covers the inside of the engine and trans . that said it doesn't cover a lot of things that are added to the engine that is necessary for it to run. clean the injectors ,change the plugs is a great start. good luck

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