Lobitz68

Yeah, it's crazy how much more they are for the same or less vehicle as their competitors... That being said, a lot of people are loyal to the brand and will continue to buy them regardless.

Poor Chevy has been through Hell lately. And to top it off, last month the Ram sold more units than the Chevy Silverado (not including the GMC Sierra). I think Chevy's reign of being the top dawg are coming to an end. Plus, their lineup needs some updating. There cars have looked the same for way to long and they cost way to much for what you get, IMO.

Nice. Subtle touches make all the difference...

The DJ has a decent cutoff and I'm not going to bash you for how you did your lights. But, if you compare your output to the output on a set of HID projectors, the difference is night and day. That's all I was saying...that the best output will come from that setup.

I agree with you guys. I've owned dozen or more vehicles, modding is fun, and like to be different. But yes first thing I do before I leave the dealership is take off all the dealer stickers and plate frames right in front of them too! But as far as the stripes or adding Mopar decals, and such. Dodge vehicles have been very good to me. For instance my Stage 3 SRT4, has never let me down and stranded, and has beat a Camaros, mustangs, and a vet, not to mention imports as well, for that proud to put on decals and Mopar items, and say its a Neon, lol.
In the few months we owned the Journey, and already put 6k miles on it, and gets 22-26 mpg, it deserves a few mods, I get attached to vehicles, and after a while they are named once they earn their place in the stable, ha I know I'm a car nut.

The problem is that most people don't put it on thick enough. It gets good coverage so people assume that it is thick enough when the color looks good. Not the case. Thicker is better and prep is KEY. Maybe some red calipers too while you're at it? Would match the war stripes nicely...

It amazes me that there is so much of a difference in the service provided by dealers and Chrysler doesn't address the problem. There's nothing worse than having a dealer that fails to make customer service a priority. I know there are some customers that are a pain in the butt and are never satisfied, but I think for the most part we just want the same treatment after the purchase as before. Chrysler and all other car companies really stand to lose sales because of inept or lackadaisical dealer service. Journeyman425 is a great example of a dealer representative that gets it. It's a shame others haven't figured it out!

From what I can tell, the T rated tire is more than sufficient. Lets look at what the numbers actually mean...
The number is the "Load Rating". Your factory Kuhmos are 100H... The "100" designates that this tire has a load rating of 1,764 lbs per tire. Your aftermarket choice is a 102T. The "102" designates that this tire has a load rating of 1,874 lbs per tire (an improvement!). The letter in these label is the "Speed Rating" and the "H" designates a maximum speed capability of 130 mph where the "T" designates a maximum speed capability of 118 mph.
Since your concern lies in the safety of your child, I highly doubt you ever reach speeds beyond the capability of the "T" rated tire and see no reason why that wouldn't be more than acceptable of a choice for you and your family. Hope that helps.

I would really consider scrapping the upgrade and just purchasing nicer components for you current setup. Doing the entire swap is going to cost as much as probably 2 brake jobs using replacement parts of a higher quality. I understand that the brakes are a little too small for the Journey, but a higher quality rotor and pad will easily make up for that at a fraction of the cost. Regardless of what you decide, please report back with your impressions... Good luck!

Ha! Do you cover your plates when you drive around town too? Not trying to be a smart ass (okay, yes I am), but your license isn't exactly a private number.... Just saying. However, it is certainly your choice not to show the pic (though I'd like to see it too).

From what I can tell, the T rated tire is more than sufficient. Lets look at what the numbers actually mean...
The number is the "Load Rating". Your factory Kuhmos are 100H... The "100" designates that this tire has a load rating of 1,764 lbs per tire. Your aftermarket choice is a 102T. The "102" designates that this tire has a load rating of 1,874 lbs per tire (an improvement!). The letter in these label is the "Speed Rating" and the "H" designates a maximum speed capability of 130 mph where the "T" designates a maximum speed capability of 118 mph.
Since your concern lies in the safety of your child, I highly doubt you ever reach speeds beyond the capability of the "T" rated tire and see no reason why that wouldn't be more than acceptable of a choice for you and your family. Hope that helps.

Maybe if it were actually funny it would be fun. I was asking a simple question and it got into how I expect too much (because I was curious if I could retain the options I already have?), whatever that means. I'm not ruffled at all, but it is annoying as hell. It's easy enough to ignore someone, no big deal...

No point of sarcasm here! Simple yes or no wont hurt...

Wow... There isn't a whole lot of room left in there! I bet that thing hauls ass...

Because in the good 'ol US of A we require instant gratification and bigger is always better. Whether or not that is a problem is certainly negotiable, but I would venture to guess that you already knew that.

I wouldn't worry about a reputable brake rotor cracking. That being said, I would still go with dimpled and slotted. Also, having tried several different manufacturers and styles of brakes I can say for a fact that the dimpled and slotted rotors do provide better braking. Whether or not it is worth you hard earned dollar is up to you. IMO any improvement to how quickly you can stop a vehicle is nice to have...

Not expecting anything, I was just curious... The factory one dims automatically. And, I use my UConnect all of the time... Just curious is all.

You are correct in your assumptions, but the eco tires are not the same makeup. The different composition of the rubber is what provides the increase in mileage... That being said, I wouldn't personally make the upgrade as the ride will suffer and the increase will be minimal. If I lived in a winter free climate I may give them a try, but not in the great white north...

Yeah, the reviews on that first generation Journey are mixed, but most are bad... Also, AWD does require you to rotate tires religiously and replace all 4 when the time comes, but that goes for all manufacturers. Though you should get a light and the AWD should disengage if they are mismatched...

Do it yourself and save the labor cost.

You are correct in your assumptions, but the eco tires are not the same makeup. The different composition of the rubber is what provides the increase in mileage... That being said, I wouldn't personally make the upgrade as the ride will suffer and the increase will be minimal. If I lived in a winter free climate I may give them a try, but not in the great white north...

Agreed. The fact that the hp and tq numbers are different in every 3.6L application alone means that they are tuned differently from the factory. They would need a donor vehicle to try tunes on and it would be a significant R&D expenditure. They likely have looked at the return on investment and decided it wasn't worth their time. Not a surprise considering the vehicle. The 3.6 is plenty fun just how it is (rare to be able to say that about an OEM application).

I have a 2010 Journey and I put a 2012 Grill on mine and it fit perfectly. I also changed the lower grill and fog light inserts to match the honeycomb pattern. The picture I have on my profile shows the 2012 Grill but not the lower grill and fog light inserts cause I recently did those. My front lights are in the shop now getting done to look like the Black Top. When I get it back Ill post some pictures.

The transmission shift lever has a switch integrated into it which sees whether the lever is in the Park position or not. If it does not see the lever in Park, the key (or FOBIK, as it is called, for Frequency Operated Button Integrated Key)will become locked in the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) or what we would call the ignition switch in a conventional setup. It may only require a cable adjustment for repair. See below:
8N - Power Systems / Power Locks / TRANSMITTER, Integrated Key FOB/Diagnosis and Testing FOBIK TRAPPED IN WINThe Fob with Integrated Key (FOBIK) cannot be rotated to the LOCK position, allowing it to be removed from the ignition switch also referred to as the Wireless Ignition Node/WIN. The automatic transmission or transaxle is shifted mechanically through a cable from the gearshift lever mechanism to the transmission or transaxle valve body. A gated park switch is physically located on and integral to the gearshift lever mechanism and is hard wired directly to the WIN. The gated park switch is a simple plunger-like actuated open or closed contact switch that could be considered redundant to the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) except that it monitors the position selected with the gearshift lever, while the TRS monitors the position or gear of the transmission or transaxle that is actually engaged. A damaged or improperly adjusted gearshift cable could result in a different gear being engaged than that which is selected. The WIN uses the gated park switch input to control an internal key lock solenoid, which controls whether the FOBIK can be rotated to the LOCK position. When the gearshift lever is not in the PARK position, the gated park switch is a closed circuit, the key lock solenoid is energized and the FOBIK cannot be rotated to the LOCK position for removal.

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION CANNOT TURN FOBIK TO LOCK POSITION 1. Damaged, binding or improperly adjusted gearshift cable. 1. Inspect and replace or adjust gearshift cable, if required. 2. Damaged or binding gearshift lever mechanism. 2. Inspect and replace or adjust gearshift lever mechanism. 3. No gated park switch input to WIN. 3. Use a diagnostic scan tool with software release version 8.05 or greater to read and confirm no gated park switch input to the WIN. Refer to the appropriate CONDITION that follows. 4. Key lock solenoid (WIN) unresponsive to gated park switch input. 4. Use a diagnostic scan tool with software release version 8.05 or greater to read and confirm gated park switch input to the WIN. Refer to the appropriate CONDITION that follows. NO GATED PARK SWITCH INPUT 1. Open TRS park signal circuit. 1. Repair the open TRS park signal circuit between the gated park switch (gearshift lever mechanism) and the WIN, if required 2. Damaged or ineffective gated park switch. 2. Replace the damaged or ineffective gated park switch (gearshift lever mechanism), if required. KEY LOCK SOLENOID UNRESPONSIVE TO GATED PARK SWITCH INPUT 1. Damaged or ineffective key lock solenoid. 1. Replace the damaged or ineffective key lock solenoid (WIN), if required.

The premium system in most OEM applications is a mild improvement at best... You're still getting paper speakers and an 8" paper sub isn't going to do much. You also only get a mild bump in wattage. If they advertise a 500w stereo you have to split that wattage up amongst all of the speakers...in reality its a bump from 8 watts a speaker to 38...not much of an upgrade. That being said, most OEM stereos can be upgraded to sound significantly better (to the non-audiophile) for a very reasonable price via the aftermarket. This is something I do in EVERY vehicle I own.