Lobitz68

So what would be different from a RHD vs LHD perspective?? There is no step in the beam cuttoff on my OEM lights, so what would need to be changed? Are they projectors??

Engine heat is a little higher in newer vehicles with the tight engine compartments, engine covers, insulation etc... I wouldn't worry about it. And yes, the gauge midway is about correct.

This^^^ I have switched to that display a couple times when pushing it and it changes constantly based on driving conditions.

I haven't seen it here... You should do it with a sprayer if you decide to do it. It will be hard to keep it consistent on that big of a piece with cans.

If you replace the brake components with quality aftermarket parts they will be just fine. It has a lot of miles on it and things like brakes need to be replaced every so often. The rust doesn't really surprise me at that many miles either. Personally, I would do as bramfrank said...see what it will take to fix your issues and decide from there.

I guess my thought was that the single in / dual out would need to be mounted further forward and would result in longer tail pipes. I assumed that's what you meant. More of a question than a suggestion.

Hey!!! Let's not get into a who has the biggest gallon argument. It's not the size of the gallon that matters, it's how you use it!

You may want to get a new meter... I checked on both sides and the brake light is only at 6 volts with the running lights on and gets 12 volts when the brake is applied. No way that they are different between models. Maybe it's been so long that you forgot? I just installed my "tail as turn" modules on Sunday, so it is pretty fresh in my mind.

Cody Chonorbay on the site has advertised that he can... Ask him. The eBay ones are not worth the money you would be spending on them.

Oh, he's DEFINITELY special...

Eh... not really... I have to clean mine out every time I was the car because there are water spots in the jamb. It's possible that moisture is getting in there. That said, mine looks fine too. Might want to pay closer attention to it when washing the DJ.

It may not be connected to anything inside the housing... As you already stated, there is a 6 volt signal wire and a 12 volt signal wire on the outside (verified with my meter). Perhaps that 12 volt pin on the hatch housing simply isn't wired to the ring internally.

Single in / dual out? Might help...

2 input wires (turn signal positive and brake positive) and 1 output wire that goes to the to the brake positive on the harness. You still need a resistor on each of the factory turn signal harnesses, but that is literally 1 wire tapped into the turn positive and 1 into the turn negative. The first light took me a little while as I figured out where I wanted to tap the wires and put the resistor, but the second side took maybe 5 minutes. Here is their install video...

Looking forward to the write up!

There are only 3 wires on the outside light and 2 on the inside, so even if you can't decipher the wiring diagram it is easy to figure out which wires are which. When the running lights are on the two lights are equivalently bright, but I think the inside light is receiving 12 volts and the outside light is only receiving 6 volts. With the brake applied the outside light receives 12 volts and gets brighter. My point earlier was that, in theory, if you supply 6 volts to the inside light then it will likely be even dimmer. If you try it, please post the results. I was planning on diving into this when the snow starts flying as I wanted to to make them sequential turn signals...

Yes, Cody did... I believe he reported that they did not change intensity when the brake pedal was depressed. I think he just ran a wire from the brake positive to the light. Perhaps the light is already receiving 12 volts all the time which would explain why the intensity didn't change for him; I haven't looked into it yet. If that is the case it may be as simple as running both the running light positive (6 volts) and the brake light positive (12 volts) over into the hatch. Of course, the light is already as dim as the 6 volt light on the outside, so limiting the voltage it sees might make it dimmer than the brake light when no brake it applied which, I assume, means it would also be dimmer than the actual brake when the brake is applied. Not sure that would look good. Only one way to find out though!

The resistor is about as easy of an install as possible, but yes, one is necessary for LEDs. A couple of us on the forum have used the Tail as Turn module from Diode Dynamics to use the OEM LED brake light as a turn signal. Personally, I think that the incandescent bulb looks pretty old school when used in conjunction with LED tail lights, which is why I ditched it in favor of the LED brake lights.

could be a leak from a poor install too... I can only speak to my personal experiences and in both of those instances (two different engines on two different vehicles) the switch from a Flowmaster to a Magnaflow got rid of the cabin drone.

Same here... I think our 'fogs' are more like DRL's personally. They certainly don't illuminate the road enough to be beneficial. You could add a brighter light, but the plastic housing is likely not strong enough to withstand the higher heat generated by these bulbs for very long. The Retrofit Source has a really nice LED replacement housing that I am considering so that I have actual functional fogs, but they are not cheap.

Good point... In MN you are also limited to 6 lights on...

I found it was easier (and less stressful) to just stop having kids.

Thinking this would look good on several pieces, not just the wheels. This is similar to what the Crossroad interior has on the dash trim... Hmmm....wheels spinning...

There you have it... The red reflectors are all that is required in most states. Amber in the front. It helps to differentiate the front from the rear of the vehicle at a distance. Though I feel like that law is fairly outdated...

Don't know how much adding piping will help... A chambered muffler will reduce the drone significantly, but I don't have any experience with any "performance" chambered mufflers, so I'm not sure if you'll get the sound you're after. Its a delicate give and take... What are the temps like by you right now? Is it possible that it is just getting louder (perceptually) because of the cold????