bigunclejethro

New plan, I'll be making a custom trunk panel (right behind third row) to mount the speakers. Can the stock stereo handle the load of two more speakers? Anyone have any advice for popping off the back door panels to get access to those speaker wires?

The other guys can confirm, but it sounds like all you need to do is swap the module out for one equipped with navigation.

Thanks for the info Evlmarine. I'll keep this in mind next time I screw up my tint job lol.
Yours looks pretty good. Did you end up clear coating and polishing?

I spent some time this weekend removing the remaining VHT Niteshades. I had a small set of lights I had tinted a while back way too dark, so these were perfect to test on.
First I tried mineral spirits. This did absolutely nothing. So I moved onto Good-off. This works great, but really dulled the lights and seemed to almost eat the plastic on the backside of the reflector. I'm glad I used this on a set of junk lights first as my DJ lights would've definitely been ruined. There are many videos of people using Goof-off to get VHT off and it works, but it will ruin your lights!
I decided to take a much safer approach with my actual tail lights since the LED version cost nearly $150 per light (ridiculously expensive). This is the passenger reverse light before doing anything.

You can see the dark spot just under the clear part and less noticably at the top of the light as well. I had some Mcguires ultimate compound and just a hand applicator, but I went at it and it all came off really quite easily. I can see this being a major pain if you have them really tinted, but even with a rotary buffer this is easily the safest route. Here is the end result. Good as new! Now I just need to make it through winter and decide what to do with em.

I've read many different responses with varying warnings, but I'm looking for advice from people who have done this with their cars. My attempt with VHT Niteshades didn't go as planned. In fact, most of it came off when I tried to buff them after clear coat. I couldn't get any shine so I just kept going at it. There are a few dark spots that are clearly still tinted and I want a safe way to remove it without fogging up my lights or eating through the plastic. So far the best solutions I've read about are goof-off or mineral spirits. It sounds like mineral spirits may be safer with plastic, but may not be strong enough. I've watched many videos where goof-off was used, but the manufacturer does not condone use on plastic. I won't wet sand my lights, but I'm open for any suggestions/constructive feedback. I do not have easy access to a buffer, so any solutions that avoids this would be appreciated. Thanks all.

Carritt, here are some pics. Just a bent piece of sheet metal riveted to the original shield.

Carritt, here are some pics. Just a bent piece of sheet metal riveted to the original shield.

Carritt, here are some pics. Just a bent piece of sheet metal riveted to the original shield.

Carritt I did the same thing, and added a bit of sheet metal to make a good seal with the hood when closed. I don't care what anyone else says, I struggled to get more than 17mpg before I put the intake on. Now I consistently get close to 20, and when I went on a long trip mostly highway driving I saw around 27mpg. Just my $0.02.

Brought my car into the dealership for an odd sound coming from my front suspension late last fall. It started as a knock or popping sound coming from the passenger side front suspension only when braking and turning at the same time and only coming to a stop (like coming to a stop sign where I needed to make a turn). The dealer drove it for 2 days and spent an hour under the car and couldn't find anything loose or hear the noise, and I lost $100 for that. Since then it has gotten worse and its now tough to tell what side of the vehicle it's coming from, but it no longer just happens when turning. I hear it at every stop light/sign I come to. I'm sure this is really vague, but I'm open to any suggestions. I haven't been in for the ABS recall yet, but the car seems to drive and stop just fine and I'm not getting any lights for traction/braking systems. Any thoughts on what it could be?
Car is a '13 SXT 3.6 AWD

Doesn't look like anyone is following this, but I'll post anyway...
Looks like speakers can only be installed on the driver side in the trunk as the passenger side is filled with what looks like an air blower for the back A/C (can anyone confirm what this is?). It would make sense that models with the upgraded stereo only have one sub because of this. In any case, I will likely be making a new cover for the storage bin in the trunk with two 6x9's recessed. If anyone cares, I'll post up when this is done.

I know the speaker baffles are fakes in the back, and some cars have a sub behind one of them in the trunk, has anyone installed speakers back there? I have a spare set of 6x9's that I want to mount there, I'm just curious to see how others have done it. From what I could tell, there are no speaker wires and there is no framing there to mount them on, so I'd have to come up with both of those.

Thanks bramfrank. I'll keep this in my favorites in case I need it in the future.
I wish I knew why but this problem has gone away shortly after I posted. Thanks everyone for your help, hopefully this doesn't come back.

Unfortunately, my warranty just expired last month. I haven't tried the radio yet but I would imagine it would do the same thing. I've never been behind the stereo, what's the best way to get to those connectors? Do I need to pull the center stack out? Not sure if it makes a difference but I have the 8.4 head unit

Just got back from a New Year's trip and I hit a big pothole on the way home. Ever since this happened, my stereo has started skipping tracks anytime I hit a bump. This happens in both SD card and Bluetooth mode, and I can make it do it by hitting the dash just to the right of the screen. Has anyone else experienced this?

My gut says the tranny won't last long. I would look into what it can safely run power wise. FWD or AWD?

I would only consider a centrifugal style supercharger as there should be plenty of room for that. Turbo would also be a lot of fun, but the 3.6 seems to make most of its power near the top of its RPM range, so a supercharger would really be the best to even out the torque curve. Who wants to take the plunge and show us how it's done?

It wouldn't be any more restrictive than the stock muffler and resonator. I appreciate the comment but the back pressure debate is not what I was going for.

Anyone tried to paint the inside of their lights to look like the cross road lights? I like the darker tint, but I don't want to tint my lights from the outside. I would be willing to give it a shot if someone else has successfully done it.

That's pretty sweet. Do you find the location to be awkward when using navigation?

I think he is saying that if you use the switchback module on the inside light it MAY work as a brake light. BUT, if you use it as a brake light you cannot use it as a turn signal.
Basically it would receive the stock signal until the brakes were applied and would then switch to that. Still not so sure that the brightness of the light would change.
Also, I cannot agree to disagree!! Now I'm going to have to take time out of my weekend to take pics of the damn meter with the running lights on and the brake lights on... I NEED to be right.

So it sounds like this would not be a simple wiring job, but one would have to swap out the LED modules as well? Damn, I was really hoping this would be easy.

Interesting. I haven't seen Cody's post on this, but I would think you should be able to disconnect the lights current power source and jumper the positive connections from the other brake light. I could be completely wrong but in my head it sounds pretty good. Are there any wiring diagrams available for these cars?

It doesn't look to me like the inner "ring of fire" lights above the b/u lights do much of anything. Has anyone considered wiring them up to come on with the outer brake lights?

I haven't experience this myself, but I have been advised to stay away from direct drop in LED's as they get hotter than standard bulbs and can melt connectors. Those look great though, and I hope I'm wrong!