bigunclejethro Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 It doesn't look to me like the inner "ring of fire" lights above the b/u lights do much of anything. Has anyone considered wiring them up to come on with the outer brake lights? dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted October 20, 2015 Report Share Posted October 20, 2015 Yes, Cody did... I believe he reported that they did not change intensity when the brake pedal was depressed. I think he just ran a wire from the brake positive to the light. Perhaps the light is already receiving 12 volts all the time which would explain why the intensity didn't change for him; I haven't looked into it yet. If that is the case it may be as simple as running both the running light positive (6 volts) and the brake light positive (12 volts) over into the hatch. Of course, the light is already as dim as the 6 volt light on the outside, so limiting the voltage it sees might make it dimmer than the brake light when no brake it applied which, I assume, means it would also be dimmer than the actual brake when the brake is applied. Not sure that would look good. Only one way to find out though! dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) Interesting. I haven't seen Cody's post on this, but I would think you should be able to disconnect the lights current power source and jumper the positive connections from the other brake light. I could be completely wrong but in my head it sounds pretty good. Are there any wiring diagrams available for these cars? Edited October 21, 2015 by bigunclejethro dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtsr Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm Bookmark this site. Lobitz68 and dhh3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Making this link a sticky in the Maintenance DIY section. Thank you! dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Interesting. I haven't seen Cody's post on this, but I would think you should be able to disconnect the lights current power source and jumper the positive connections from the other brake light. I could be completely wrong but in my head it sounds pretty good. Are there any wiring diagrams available for these cars? There are only 3 wires on the outside light and 2 on the inside, so even if you can't decipher the wiring diagram it is easy to figure out which wires are which. When the running lights are on the two lights are equivalently bright, but I think the inside light is receiving 12 volts and the outside light is only receiving 6 volts. With the brake applied the outside light receives 12 volts and gets brighter. My point earlier was that, in theory, if you supply 6 volts to the inside light then it will likely be even dimmer. If you try it, please post the results. I was planning on diving into this when the snow starts flying as I wanted to to make them sequential turn signals... jkeaton and dhh3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 (edited) No, I have had both my inner and outer lights off, when I was trying to hook up my rear fog lights. The outer light receives 12v. The 3 wires are: brake, tail, and ground. The resistor, or whatever you call it to run the LEDs is built into the light housing. I wired my rear fog lights into the outside 12v wire going to the tail light. If the thing inside the housing is what controls the brake (bright) and tail (dim), then this would also have to be installed in the inside lamp housing. If memory serves me correctly, there are only 2 wires going to the inside lights: tail and ground. If the socket on the inside housing has three pins for the plug, then all you would need would be a set of out side plugs (3 holes and 3 wires) and run a wire from the brake wire on either side and connect. I never looked at the inside of the socket on the inside light housings. Some moron on the forum, last fall, wanted to change his incandescent bulbs to LED's. I took both my lights off on the driver's side, and posted pictures and he never responded! Well, I just answered my own question. As you can see, both the inner and outer housings have 3 pins. So, the inside lights can be made to be brake lights also, by getting a pair of 3-wire plugs and running a wire from either side brake wire and tie it into both inside lights. The reason, at least for me, is that incandescent bulbs are still offered on the lower priced DJs. I did not think that Dodge would run 2 completely different wire harnesses to the rear for each type of light. So, there is 12v going to all of the lights. The "thing" inside the housing converts the 12v to whatever the LEDs require. Time to go to a salvage yard and find a pair of 3-wire plugs! Then, all 4 of my LEDs will be be both tail and brake. Edited October 21, 2015 by dhh3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Sorry. I knew that it would be too easy to be true! I removed both driver's side lights, and plugged the inside light into the outside harness. It did not work as a brake light. The 3 pins have me confused. Obviously, the outside housing has something that changes the intensity of the LEDs, but the inside housing does not. I'm curious what the third pin is for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Sorry. I knew that it would be too easy to be true! I removed both driver's side lights, and plugged the inside light into the outside harness. It did not work as a brake light. The 3 pins have me confused. Obviously, the outside housing has something that changes the intensity of the LEDs, but the inside housing does not. I'm curious what the third pin is for. It may not be connected to anything inside the housing... As you already stated, there is a 6 volt signal wire and a 12 volt signal wire on the outside (verified with my meter). Perhaps that 12 volt pin on the hatch housing simply isn't wired to the ring internally. dhh3 and jkeaton 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) When I tested the wires, I got 12v for both the brake and tail light. Both housings are marked 13.5v. I tied my rear fog lights into the 12v going to the taillights; so my rear fog lights come on as soon as I turn on my lights. Too lazy and incapacitated to run wires for a switch! LOL Something weird is going on here! Maybe my brain is dying. Edited October 22, 2015 by dhh3 jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 When I tested the wires, I got 12v for both the brake and tail light. Both housings are marked 13.5v. I tied my rear fog lights into the 12v going to the taillights; so my rear fog lights come on as soon as I turn on my lights. Too lazy and incapacitated to run wires for a switch! LOL Something weird is going on here! Maybe my brain is dying. You may want to get a new meter... I checked on both sides and the brake light is only at 6 volts with the running lights on and gets 12 volts when the brake is applied. No way that they are different between models. Maybe it's been so long that you forgot? I just installed my "tail as turn" modules on Sunday, so it is pretty fresh in my mind. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigunclejethro Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 So it sounds like this would not be a simple wiring job, but one would have to swap out the LED modules as well? Damn, I was really hoping this would be easy. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 There should be 0 volts to the brake lights, unless the brake pedal is pressed. As I already stated, I tied into the 12v tail light wire for my rear fog lights. They get 12v, and their brightness is between the intensity of the LED tail and brake lights. I wish that it was 6v as stated: they would be dimmer - maybe the same intensity of the LED tail lamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 There should be 0 volts to the brake lights, unless the brake pedal is pressed. As I already stated, I tied into the 12v tail light wire for my rear fog lights. They get 12v, and their brightness is between the intensity of the LED tail and brake lights. I wish that it was 6v as stated: they would be dimmer - maybe the same intensity of the LED tail lamps. Not if your headlights are on... that is when there is a 6 volt signal. dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Let's agree to disagree. My rear fogs are getting 12v. I have sent an email to these guys: contact@diodedynamics.com (314) 205-3033 x223 As the OP asked, I want to know if there is a way to make all 4 LEDs come on as brake lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 This is what I sent them: I have no idea how any of this works! My Dodge Journey has 4 Red LED lights in the rear (Rings of Fire!). The turn signals are an amber incandescent bulb. The outside LED lights serve as brake and tail light. The inside LED lights are tail light only. I want the inside LED lights to be brake also, if this is even possible. The outside lights have 3 wires: brake, tail, and ground. The housings have 3 pins. The inside lights have 2 wires: tail and ground. However, the inside housings also have three pins. I plugged the inside light/housing to the outside harness, and the light still only worked as a tail light. The brake function didn’t work. Thus, the outer LED lights are dual intensity and the inside LEDs are single intensity. I was under the impression that a switchback is for two different colors for the same light. From: Diode Dynamics Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 2:12 PM To: dhh_3@comcast.net Subject: [#MOQ-305-14094]: Inner LED tail lights as brake lights also Hello,Thank you for contacting Diode Dynamics! Our switchback module would be something I would suggest you take a look at.http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/catalog/product/view/id/22660/s/s1-switchback-module-pair/category/1448/The only issue, if you want to call it that, is that you will only be able to choose either the brake or the turn signal for this function. This is just do to only having one high power input available to tap in with. Also you would need to swap the existing tail light bulb out to an LED option.Thank you,Phillipcontact@diodedynamics.com(314) 205-3033 x223 Ticket ID: MOQ-305-14094Helpful LinksTroubleshooter - Installation - Create an RMA - www.diodedynamics.com This is the response I received today: No, switchback simply means that it runs one input until another is introduced. Then it will switchback to the first once the other is removed. Unfortunately this would be a DIY situation so I do not have much else I can share on this installation. Thank you,Phillipcontact@diodedynamics.com(314) 205-3033 x223 Ticket ID: MOQ-305-14094Helpful LinksTroubleshooter - Installation - Create an RMA - www.diodedynamics.com This is like the old lady whom I originally talked to at Uconnect when I was having issues getting my iPod to work correctly. Looks like working here only requires the ability to type! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobitz68 Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 I think he is saying that if you use the switchback module on the inside light it MAY work as a brake light. BUT, if you use it as a brake light you cannot use it as a turn signal. Basically it would receive the stock signal until the brakes were applied and would then switch to that. Still not so sure that the brightness of the light would change. Also, I cannot agree to disagree!! Now I'm going to have to take time out of my weekend to take pics of the damn meter with the running lights on and the brake lights on... I NEED to be right. bigunclejethro and dhh3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Chornobey Powley Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Yea I did a.post. I'm thinking either the third pin on the inside tail is not connected or there is a driver or something controlling the 6 volts from going to 12. Not sure if the diode dynamic module would work with this or not to get the inside tails to act as break and turn at the same time. But as of right now my inner tails only come on when my signals are on. So there for I only have my breaks as running lights for the back. I know the DD module would work for the break as turn signal tho. I haven't got around to that yet dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhh3 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Ideally, I would like 4 brake lights, and keep the amber signal light. Do you think the switchback would work for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody Chornobey Powley Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Only one way to find out dhh3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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