Journeyman425

I concur as well - my 2013 Crew has the same opening. It appears to be for access like Webslave has indicated. If I come across any more info I'll pass it along.

My new radio awaits installation at my shop for the same issue.

I sent Regina from DodgeCares a PM on the 8th about the DRL issue, and am waiting for a reply. She may be on vacation.

Love cycling - given up a few wax jobs on the Journey to be on the bike!

Yet another Copper Pearl! Ya gotta love it! And yet another apology - no go on the DRL for yours, either - see my last post, above. Sorry guys.

Sorry to say that I have no magic I checked your VIN and verified what your dealer has told you. Despite the fact that the option remains on the screen to enable and disable the DRL, the sales code that is required for them to operate was not ordered by your dealer when the order for your Journey was placed. Up untl model year 2013, the sales code for DRL could be added to the car by the dealer, but that was changed for 2014. I would love to see some pictures of your Crossroad - I am partial to Copper Pearl, as you may be aware...

I've come across that occasionally. It's an impression from a barcode label that was affixed to the mirror by the mirror manufacturer. A couple of rounds of glass cleaner should eliminate it.

Correct - the upper intake manifold must be removed. Unless you have the correct tools and experience, this should be left to a technician whose skill level is commensurate with the job. Going by the Labor Operation number assigned to this job by Chrysler, I would have to delegate this job to one of my techs whose training level was second highest or highest (level 2 or 3) in order to submit a warranty claim in the event that we were doing this job under warranty. Here's an overview: 08 - Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition/Removal 3.6L Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 1 and 3 on the RH side of the engine, first remove the resonator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) . If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) and insulator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal) . NOTE: The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the ignition coil. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolt (3). Pull the ignition coil (2) from cylinder head cover opening with a slight twisting action. And now for the intake manifold removal: 09 - Engine, 3.6L / Manifolds / MANIFOLD, Intake/Removal UPPER Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover (1). Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) . Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7). Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness. Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3) vapor purge (6) brake booster (2) Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2). Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1). Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2). NOTE: The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold. NOTE: Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2). Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1). Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine. If required, remove the insulator (2) from the LH cylinder head cover. As I stated earlier - my feeling is that your misfire is head-related. Yes, it could be a bad coil but usually that is accompanied by a dead miss and a flashing engine light, neither of which you stated are occurring. You also may have a bad injector as well. They often give the same symptom as a bad coil but sometimes not as severe. Have it diagnosed at a reputable dealer. If you end up needing a cylinder head, the head will be covered by the 10 year / 150K warranty extension which was recently issued by the factory.

2/4/6 are on the driver's side, which is the head that goes bad. More than likely it will need replacement. Your plugs aren't due unti 100K miles. How many miles on the car now?

Quoting almost verbatim from the warranty guide - tires are the only item not covered by the New Car Limited Warranty, and are covered by the tire manufacturer themselves. With 23,000 miles now on my Journey, the OEM Kumho Solus KH16's (225/55/19) are still every bit as smooth, quiet, and balanced as they were on day one. The car tracks straight and true with absolutely no vibration. I've rotated them twice and have never had to balance any one wheel. The current tread depth is at least 6/32" (they were 10/32" new). Barring any road hazards, I'm on track to go 40K miles on these before replacement. We'll see. I have read about all the problems people have had with them and have expected the worst, but I've been very fortunate, I guess. None of the problems I've read about have materialized thus far. I've always loved Michelins and both my 300M's wore them as OEM tires, but if these Kumhos continue to wear and perform as they have to this point, I would replace them with the same ones again, no questions asked. Very satisfied so far.

I honestly do not know. Electrical wiring and schematics is not an area that I am trained in. The wiring specifications and their intended uses are not explained in detail in the manuals unless that specification directly pertains to a diagnosis. Otherwise, just the wire color, its intended path, ohm value and pin connector location are given as that is usually all that is needed to trace a problem.

Hello again - Sorry, but no luck. The sales code LMK which is needed to enable the DRL is no longer present for 2014 models. No one at Chysler has confirmed this for me, but my belief is that LMK is now an option that can only be added/configured at the factory if the code is selected as an extra-charge option when the vehicle is ordered by the dealer. I have seen some 2014 DJ's with LMK in the Options field of the build sheet, as opposed to the Dealer Added Options field which is where it used to be found when added by a dealer. Sorry that I couldn't help, and yes that would annoy me to no end if I could not enable/disable it as the manual instructs. It's like a tease.

Sure - I'm happy to at least give it a shot for you. I've has no luck with 2014 models - there's been some unexplained (to me) configuration change on US models, but I'll give yours a look.

Welcome, and you've got a great car!

There have been transmission software updates along the way. Yours may need an update. I also have a 300M (two of them, actually) and they shift more smoothly and predictably than my 2013 Journey. I like the extra ratios but the action is a bit abrupt or busy. I have learned to live with the shift quality but it is the only performance characteristic of the vehicle that I don't care for. Intermittently inoperative cruise control is also a common issue. Most times the root cause is traced to the steering wheel switches. We keep them in stock at my shop for this reason. Not just DJ, but Grand Cherokees and Durangos as well.

That is beautiful - don't change a thing!

Wow, that is beautiful! So, did it come with the 110V power outlet?

Well, had my first problem with the Journey today since we got it. Went to enter an address in the Nav screeen and got two messages - "Can't Unlock Maps" and "No Map Data Available". Scanned all the modules at work - no fault codes. Reset the radio - no change. Re-installed update discs that I used last spring - same. Contacted Chrysler - i need a new radio. Amazing to me since everything works normally except that my map data appears to be corrupted somehow. I figured that I could re-load the maps onto a memory stick and download them into the unit, but apparently I have to replace it. It's for this reason that I bought a Lifetime Maximum Care service contract. I'm not worried about the engine and tranny failing; it's the damn electronics!

I'm the same way, guys. My 300M is running testament to the benefits of frequent oil changes. Every 3500-4000 miles and it does not smoke at start-up and uses maybe a half quart of oil in between. 292,000 miles and the engine is quiet. The Journey is the first car that I ever used synthetic oil in. Every 5000 miles I change it - way more than needed, I know, but I just can't let it go longer than that - even though I tell my own customers that it's no problem to do so! Interestingly, the oil change reminder came on for the first time at 9500 miles. I now have 22,700 miles and it has yet to come back on again. I haven't found any discussion about how the interval is calculated other than it being a complex algorithm that takes multiple factors into consideration to produce an oil change message.

Pictures!

I am not finding a sales code for Auto Headlamps. We've never added the switch to a car that didn't have it. Restoring the configuration might pick it up but it also may be tied to the body controller as well. Did you have remote start added to your DJ? There is a Mopar Accessory Kit which adds remote start and supplies you witih two new key fobs which contain the remote start button. When the kit is installed in your DJ, the sales code is added by the installing technician and then a restoration is done which picks up the sales code and enables the remote start system. Your're very welcome, by the way. I wish I could have enabled your DRL for you. I've contacted Chrysler three times regarding the matter and have still yet to be given a firm answer on the matter. It *appears* to me that sales code LMK for DRL has been relegated to the factory only. In other words, when the vehicle's options are programmed at the factory, LMK can only be added then and no longer by the dealer. I assume this is done so that DRL can be sold as an option when the car is ordered. I don't know if this is factual or not, but I can't see it any other way and no one at Chrysler has been able to say affirmatively either way.

It's tough. I've done it twice and the time goes by so........slow...............

Your Journey is in Buffalo now. Still has dealer ETA of Wednesday.

At least your battery is fully charged!

Mine is also FWD. Our pop-up camper weighs 1200 lb. dry. With all our gear, bikes and the family we're probably over 2000lbs but the car handles it with ease. Much more responsive and stable than towing with our 300M, which wasn't bad but you definitely felt it. The Journey never feels burdened in any way. It remains responsive and controlled despite the load. It feels like it could tow a lot more, which is nice - never feels like it's near its limits.