probak118

I agree with 2Late4U, it always seems that when you factor in the 0% financing plus incentives ...vs the financing interest rate on a used car the newer vehicle is about the same price I find.  But 15 K is nothing if the used 2018 is thousands cheaper, in the end will you be happy with the 2018 and its options ? So, I guess whatever everyone else mentioned above, good luck; I am sure either way you will be happy just go with your gut..

Very strange....correct like something splashed on both sections.Yep, remove, sand and, repaint; hope you can find a match for that colour. Good Luck

I do not recall it as an issue really...wonder since heater core issue I am more aware of it in general now.  Glad to hear it's not just me, thanks. Yes the minus 26 C  / - 15 F not including wind chill is a little abnormal lately LOL

Widows started to fog-up and I knew what happened, been twenty years since that happened to me. Found a "rad shop" that offers not to discharge air conditioning & lines and limits what is removed on the dash. Dealers wanted between $1200 and $1550 taxes included. This rad shop charged $630 including a total coolant flush, and if you do not want short cuts taken price is $1100. No brainer here, short cuts all the way. Just wanted everyone to know, look for shops willing to skip unnecessary steps if the savings is passed along.  Not sure if the skipped steps are environmental or safety concerns but was assured end result is the same.

I completely agree with your opinion of the voice commands. Luckily there is not a learn feature for the commands I repeat back when trying dial a contact.  Your L/ 100kms seems a little higher than my 2012 SRT averages but on the highway the 3.6 L gets good mileage. We do not have the back-up camera or the navigation system but, our 2017 Terrain with its Tom Tom system I hate it. Our portable Garmin for the DJ works great and free life time map updates. Very little maintenance our our end also, replace 2 sets of undersized brakes all around one we paid for and battery that is it ! Great report good read.

Figured after 6 1/2 yrs with the last 3 having been kicked out of the cozy garage battery had had enough. Alternator pumping out 80 amps, load test showed barely ok and battery taking a full charge but by morning dead again.  Would not pay the $120 for dealer labour to change. After removing the tire and the wheel well shields found that the battery hold down rod and nut where completely rusted, great ! What a pain in the ass but, nothing a soaking of penetrating oil and a impact gun with extension could not handle. Then surprise surprise found the two negative cable fastener nuts were only hand tight ?  Thanks dealer techs obviously when doing previous re-call work you forgot to tighten the connection properly. Pulled old battery and it tested to 12.4 volts.......OMG !  Not going thru that again, so installed the new battery bought anyway. I cannot believe someone could forget to make tight a battery cable connection or has anyone had one come loose on its own ?  Guess it is possible and I could with the 6/49 lottery too ! Thanks for letting me rant everyone.

Figured after 6 1/2 yrs with the last 3 having been kicked out of the cozy garage battery had had enough. Alternator pumping out 80 amps, load test showed barely ok and battery taking a full charge but by morning dead again.  Would not pay the $120 for dealer labour to change. After removing the tire and the wheel well shields found that the battery hold down rod and nut where completely rusted, great ! What a pain in the ass but, nothing a soaking of penetrating oil and a impact gun with extension could not handle. Then surprise surprise found the two negative cable fastener nuts were only hand tight ?  Thanks dealer techs obviously when doing previous re-call work you forgot to tighten the connection properly. Pulled old battery and it tested to 12.4 volts.......OMG !  Not going thru that again, so installed the new battery bought anyway. I cannot believe someone could forget to make tight a battery cable connection or has anyone had one come loose on its own ?  Guess it is possible and I could with the 6/49 lottery too ! Thanks for letting me rant everyone.

Bill,
2late4u was offring his for sale in classified for $150 plus shipping. See if he still has it for sale ?
 

I would be a little pissed at having a flat rather than think about taking pictures ?  But like you said, could not have been  better spot to have a flat.

There is a battery temp sensor ?? Just a guess but, why would the alternator not still operate as normal ? 

As mentioned, buy good quality rotors ( after market / maybe MOPAR has better ones now ? ). My 2012 ( smaller sized brakes)  is on its 3rd set of fronts, changed in  March 2014 before extended warranty ran out and last change was 55 , 000 kms year and a half back. Now at 68,000 kms and no issues at all with rotor shakes  bought MOPAR parts too...maybe they as mentioned now are using better quality materials. 

I notice that also and the dealer also noted to make sure the idle drops before changing gears from park into drive ( I always back into driveway). You know how sometimes your in a hurry and simply start it up and shift. For sure a loud clunk and a little jolt if not idled down when first started.

Only replacing the rear pads ? Usually the front pads are the ones needing the extra attention alone. By code are you saying the Journey is giving off a code number that indicates some warning / specifics for you to do the brakes ? What were you told this code will indicate ? As mentioned, the ccylinder needs to be rotated to move not simply "pushed" back in.

Only replacing the rear pads ? Usually the front pads are the ones needing the extra attention alone. By code are you saying the Journey is giving off a code number that indicates some warning / specifics for you to do the brakes ? What were you told this code will indicate ? As mentioned, the ccylinder needs to be rotated to move not simply "pushed" back in.

If it was just a flush you would not be changing filter, you must drop the bottom of the pan. By doing so you also get to examine / clean the magnet that collects and holds any small metallic pieces in the fluid. Plus wipe away any buildup lying in the bottom.  The old gasket must also then be removed and a new one installed. Not a difficult job if you have the car raised but does involve a little time and elbow grease to remove old gasket material sometimes. Not sure if $300 is worth it but, it is not simply a flush.

It still has full coverage ! Then what's the issue... the fact that they have not yet diagnosed the problem themselves ? Then make the time to get it in there and then also submit the the receipts for the previously purchased hoses. Unfortunately your time to change parts yourself was on you but maybe get a receipt from that shop to compensate the use of the shop equipment etc... Most dealers have a ride program that will take you home / work then pick you up again once work is done. Pain in the ass maybe but if your DJ has full coverage no cash out of your pocket only time.  Money is tigh...been there but no working vehicle makes money even tighter.Good Luck.

It still has full coverage ! Then what's the issue... the fact that they have not yet diagnosed the problem themselves ? Then make the time to get it in there and then also submit the the receipts for the previously purchased hoses. Unfortunately your time to change parts yourself was on you but maybe get a receipt from that shop to compensate the use of the shop equipment etc... Most dealers have a ride program that will take you home / work then pick you up again once work is done. Pain in the ass maybe but if your DJ has full coverage no cash out of your pocket only time.  Money is tigh...been there but no working vehicle makes money even tighter.Good Luck.

took me a while but got it done...

That looks awesome ! Safety concerns can't argue them but, there is still the third brake light  for drivers not paying attention to notice. Besides,  how crucial  are brake lights in the eyes of the law ( in Ontario anyway ) when legally; you only need one to work ? LOL. Just saying...great job on the tinting, hope local police are kind  to you.

Just bought the "Reflex" blade from CT $15.99, works great.

Best bet for a part like that price wise is probably junk yard, usually 50 % of new price. As mentioned, get price of new at dealer and find a junk yard with a DJ in the yard and pay 50 % or maybe less ? Is the body panel also broken... the edge of wheel well looks pretty jagged too ?

Funny, but being in the area near both Michigan and Ohio the Windsor Salt mine makes salt very plentiful and cheap for use in melting ice and snow on our roads. I wish they only would spread sand. Salt kills our car's body around here for four months plus of the Winter season.  If you do not service your vehicle components susceptible to this salt by "oil spray"or other corrosion control etc...your car will not last long - rust free. Perhaps my words to describe the bottom of the door openings, door sill plates "rocker panels" was incorrect I apologize. My main point was that these parts normally hollow and notorious for holding moisture and salt seemed filled with foam now for sound suppression etc ? Maybe this foam allows the metal to resist oxidation now ? All I know was I expected the rust protection previously applied to be somewhat present and it was not. 

Funny, but being in the area near both Michigan and Ohio the Windsor Salt mine makes salt very plentiful and cheap for use in melting ice and snow on our roads. I wish they only would spread sand. Salt kills our car's body around here for four months plus of the Winter season.  If you do not service your vehicle components susceptible to this salt by "oil spray"or other corrosion control etc...your car will not last long - rust free. Perhaps my words to describe the bottom of the door openings, door sill plates "rocker panels" was incorrect I apologize. My main point was that these parts normally hollow and notorious for holding moisture and salt seemed filled with foam now for sound suppression etc ? Maybe this foam allows the metal to resist oxidation now ? All I know was I expected the rust protection previously applied to be somewhat present and it was not. 

Now it is a little clearer LOL Why not use a hammer and hit the dent down from inside as much as possible back in shape. Then, maybe use the spray can of undercoating or even brush it on and seal from the underside ? I think undercoating is flexible enough to have a little give and hopefully maintain a waterproof finish you are hoping for ? 

So are talking the plastic bin itself or the metal  housing that holds the bin ? If only the plastic get some good two part glue etc...made for plastic as suggested. But, how is water getting into the area holding the plastic bin ? Mine has always been dry as there is no evidence of rust below the plastic bin when removed. Maybe more of a concern ?