Journey_SeXT

Usually Dodge offers trade-in incentives...you may want to consider going up at least to SXT model and get the 3.6L v6 engine. I'm sure that you will be pleased with the power it provides.

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Not familiar with this code as it seems like a diesel issue...here is what I found online: http://www.obd-codes.com/p2002 Hope this helps.

Added Removal and Installation of Resonator.

Removal Air intake system (Resonator) REMOVAL Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover (1). Disconnect the electrical connector (2) from the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. Loosen the clamp (4) and remove the air inlet hose from the resonator (1). Remove the push pin (3). Installation INSTALLATION Lubricate the two rubber mount sockets (2) on the resonator (1) with Mopar® Rubber Bushing Installation Lube. Install the resonator to the throttle body inlet. Push the resonator (1) down onto the two locating pins (3) on the right cylinder head cover until the rubber mount sockets (2) are fully seated. Install the push pin (3). Install the air inlet hose to the resonator (1) and tighten the clamp (4) to 4 N·m (35 in. lbs.). Connect the electrical connector (2) to the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor. Install engine cover (1). Connect the negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.).

3,6L (Pentastar) ignition coil removal/install and includes upper intake manifold removal/install....Hope what I posted helps.

Upper Intake Manifold (installation) UPPER NOTE Prior to installing the upper intake manifold, verify that the four fuel rail bolts were not inadvertently loosened. The bolts must tightened in the sequence shown to 7 N·m (62 in. lbs.) (Refer to Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/RAIL, Fuel - Installation)(Refer To List 1). Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces. Install new upper to lower intake manifold seals (1). NOTE Make sure the fuel injectors and wiring harnesses are in the correct position so that they don't interfere with the upper intake manifold installation. If removed, install the insulator (2) to the two alignment posts (3) on top of the LH cylinder head cover. Lift and hold the seven upper intake attaching bolts (1) clear of the mating surface. Back the bolts out slightly or if required, use an elastic band to hold the bolts clear of the mating surface. Position the upper intake manifold (1) onto the lower intake manifold so that the two locating posts (2) on the upper intake manifold align with corresponding holes (3) in the lower intake manifold. Install the seven upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.). Install two nuts (1) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) and tighten the studbolt (2) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.) Engage the wire harness retainer (3) to the studbolt (2). Engage the wire harness retainer (4) to the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Install two upper intake manifold support brackets (2) with two studbolts (3) and two nuts (1). Tighten the studbolts (3) to 20 N·m (177 in. lbs.) and tighten the nuts (1) to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.). Install the nut (2) to the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1) and tighten to 12 N·m (106 in. lbs.). Connect the following hoses to the upper intake manifold: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3) vapor purge (6) brake booster (2) Connect the electrical connectors to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7). Secure the ETC harness to the clip (7) on the throttle body and engage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) to the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor. Install the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Installation). Connect the negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.). Start and run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Install the engine cover (1). REFER TO LIST:

Upper Intake Manifold (removal) UPPER Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the engine cover (1). Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal). Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7). Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness. Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3) vapor purge (6) brake booster (2) Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2). Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5). Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1). Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2). NOTE The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold. NOTE Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts. Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2). Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).

Removal & Installation 3.6L 3.6L Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 1 and 3 on the RH side of the engine, first remove the resonator (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal). If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) and insulator (Refer to Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal)(Refer To List 1). NOTE The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar. Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the ignition coil. Remove the ignition coil mounting bolt (3). Pull the ignition coil (2) from cylinder head cover opening with a slight twisting action. 3.6L 3.6L Using compressed air, blow out any dirt or contaminants from around the top of spark plug. Check the condition of the ignition coil rubber boot (1). Inspect the opening of the boot (2) for any debris, tears or rips. Carefully remove any debris with a lint free cloth. CAUTION Do not apply a silicone based grease such as Mopar® Dielectric Grease to the ignition coil rubber boot. The silicone based grease will absorb into the boot causing it to stick and tear. Place a small, 360° bead of Uniflor 8172 lubricant (1) along the inside opening of the coil boot approximately 1 to 2 mm from the chamfer edge but not on the chamfered surface. NOTE The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar. Position the ignition coil (2) into the cylinder head cover opening. Using a twisting action, push the ignition coil onto the spark plug. Install the ignition coil mounting bolt (3) and tighten to the proper (Torque Specifications). Connect and lock the electrical connector (1) to the ignition coil (2). If removed, install the intake manifold (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Installation)(Refer To List 1). Connect the negative battery cable and tighten the nut to the proper (Torque Specifications).

Weathertech bug deflectors any good? This one here requires no drilling. http://www.weathertech.ca/dodge/2012/journey/stone-and-bug-deflector/ I don't like the idea of drilling and the reason why I've never installed the the front mud guards I purchased way back...the bug deflector I installed on my Hyundai was with adhesive tape and works great....purchased it through the dealer and installed it myself.

2.4L Engine NOTE Prior to removing coil, spray compressed air around coil top to make sure no dirt drops into the spark plug tube. The electronic ignition coil attaches directly to the valve cover. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove engine cover. Disconnect electrical connector from ignition coil. Remove ignition coil mounting bolts. Twist the ignition coil then pull straight up. Ignition coils—2.4L engine To install: Install ignition coil onto spark plug. Install ignition coil mounting bolt, tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Connect ignition coil electrical connectors.

For the 2.4L engine, the firing order is: 1-3-4-2.

A pothole that big and can bend all four rims would be called a crater.

...and doesn't help with turns on icy roads....you can have awd, 4wd or 18 wheel drive ice is ice and you will be slipping if you don't respect the conditions of the road.

If I had someone like Journeyman425 at my dealership I'd get my DJ serviced their regularly and probably be a lifer at that dealership. Unfortunately, the 3 dealerships I've gone to I can't seem to bond with any of them so I do the maintenance work at home. At least I have a good relationship with the parts guys!

I think the next time when I buy a vehicle I'm gonna do it online....I can't stand dealing with sales people.

Sorry for the vague post. I didn't use it & it doesn't look like it needs it but if you want the clear coat they do have it in a separate touch up bottle. I've used it in a deep chip I got from my road trip to Florida 2 years ago, transport truck's tire popped and a chunk of the tire smacked my DJ leaving a chip down to the metal. Anyhow, 2 years later and the paint is still doing well but it still pains me every time i see it.

The color pen is a lacquer and doesn't need it. It will require a few coats to fill.

Well, isn't she special. I'm thankful that my wife appreciates or at least pretends to appreciate anything I give her but if she pulled a stunt like this spoiled B!+@H then I'll trade the vehicle in for a whack of bus tickets.

Just get the touch up pen online....here is one for my vehicles color....maybe the same for you? http://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-BRIGHT-Metalic-Touch-Up-Mopar/dp/B006R9F5JE

A Journey young in age as yours does not need any additives except for a bottle of fuel system cleaner every 2nd oil change. The oils and engines now have made the use of oil additives a thing of the past. If you want thick oil then use 10w30 (not recommended) but don't waste your money by adding that goo in your engine.

Where as in Toronto you will find way more Porsche Cayenne's driving around than the Durango's. The Durango doesn't seem to be a big seller here at all....I thought they were discontinued but they do still exist.

Awesome fuel consumption compared to others that have posted from out West....you are definitely doing something right!

If it's for winter start up I don't think thickening the oil with STP is what you want. You would be better off with thinner oils like a synthetic 5w20 (i think that's what your 2014 calls for) or 0w20 and go 5w30 in the summer. I would only use oil thickening additives like STP (which Dodge doesn't approve the use of) if my vehicle was out of warranty and if I had an oil consumption issue.

If I remember correctly B4ZINGA your neck of the woods is like mine with a lot of Dodge Journeys out on the roads. I've driven through the U.S. and I was in shock that I did not see any...anywhere.....so if Dee is in one of those places where the Journey is not a big seller then I can see why it has never been sold yet.