Journey_SeXT

I use to think that too until I see cars that are a little over 5 years old with rust around the wheel wells. In the snowbelt region where they use salt on the roads it's a definitely a good idea to have done if you are planning to keep the car for a long time.

Depends on what they consider city driving. My fuel economy in the city is decent if I'm on the roads 9:00 at night when few cars are on the road but at rush hour and especially catching all the red lights (and there is a lot of them here) any gains I made on the highway is lost by the time I get home.

For city driving you need a Fiat 500L if you want better fuel consumption.

See, I am not off in my diagnosis. If you were able to get it down to 8.8L so there is nothing wrong with it....it's the type of driving that is bad. Is this bumper to bumper traffic both ways every day? I know if I worked in downtown Toronto my numbers would probably be the same. And if your previous vehicle posted the same numbers it definitely is the city gridlock combined with over idling when cold.

If I remember correctly defender007 let's it idle for a very long time in the winter on top of that the vehicle sees 100% city driving which will never give the vehicle an opportunity to drop the fuel mileage numbers but instead keeps adding to it every morning at morning at start up. Since I have now taken over driving the Journey full time I have noticed in really cold weather at startup that the vehicle revs pretty high for a while and will start to make the fuel consumption numbers jump very quickly. Any of those number gains I lose because it is all highway driving to work and back. My other observation I find is that the fuel mileage really drops when the vehicle is hot at full operating temperature so after 5-10 minutes on the highway I start to see then fuel numbers drop much more rapidly. You won't lower your numbers if you are always city driving with constant stop and go especially in the winter. You need to go on a long highway drive on a Sunday morning with no traffic and see if those numbers begin to drop quickly as I mentioned if it doesn't then yes you definitely have a problem.

Fear thy neighbor. Ohare, when I posted this I wasn't aware of how loud their squeal really was I thought it was just some crabby neighbor who likes to cause trouble....there are plenty of those around too.

Welcome to the forum 2014Journey² !!

Wow, posting this after we get hit with 15 cm of snow.... not cool JK.

Removal Bumper Fascia REMOVAL UPPER PUSHPINS Release hood latch and open hood. Remove the pushpins for the fascia (2) at the radiator support. POP RIVETS Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands. (Refer to Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure), for proper hoisting and jacking procedures. Remove the pop rivets (2) at the wheel well opening. TABS/BRACKET Remove the torx® screw (3) at the wheel well housing. Separate the fascia tabs (2) at the bracket (1). LOWER PUSHPINS Remove the pushpins (1) for the fascia (2) at the lower closeout panel. SLIDE MOUNT Slide the fascia (2) out from the mounting tab (1) under the headlamp. Disengage fog lamp wire connector and side marker connector from body harness, if equipped. Disengage the ambient temp sensor wire connector, if equipped.

Remove Cooling Fan GAS NOTE The cooling fan is integrated into the front radiator closure panel and can be removed separately. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable. Remove the air filter box assembly (1). Remove windshield washer reservoir (1). Disconnect radiator fan electrical connectors. Remove the wiring harness from the lower fan.

2009 Dodge Journey Removal & Installation Disconnect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal. Remove engine cover. Remove air box assembly. Recover A/C system. WARNING Do not remove pressure cap or any hose with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur. Drain cooling system. Remove the grille. Remove under belly pan (if equipped). Remove front bottom splash shield (if equipped). Remove upper and lower radiator hoses at radiator. Disconnect radiator fan electrical connector. Separate radiator cooling fans from radiator. Disconnect A/C line at condenser/cooler. Remove transmission oil cooler tubes support bracket at left side of radiator (if equipped). CAUTION Plastic tanks, while stronger than brass are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches. Remove the two Torx screws located on the upper radiator support that hold the upper radiator mounting brackets. Tilt the top of the radiator rearward so the mounting brackets slide out of the upper core support. Remove radiator/condenser assembly by lifting the assembly out of the vehicle between the engine and the core support. Separate the A/C condenser from the radiator. To install: Position radiator cooling fans on radiator. Position combination A/C condenser/cooler on radiator. Slide radiator into position and seat the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the mount holes. Install A/C lines (1) to condenser. Install support bracket (2) to radiator. Tighten mounting screws to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Connect cooling fan electrical connector. Install lower radiator hose at radiator. Install upper radiator mount. Install front bottom splash shield Install under engine splash shield. Fill cooling system. Charge A/C system. Install air filter housing. Install the engine cover. Install transmission oil cooler tube support bracket and attaching screw to left side of radiator. Tighten mounting screw to 45 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Connect hoses to radiator. Install radiator fan. To drain radiator by petcock you can watch the video here: http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2009_Dodge_Journey_SXT_3.5L_V6/coolant_antifreeze/flush_coolant Faster draining would be to drain coolant by removing the lower radiator hose. 2011 Dodge Journey 3.6L Radiator - Removal RADIATOR - REMOVAL Disconnect negative cable. Remove engine cover. Remove air intake assembly (Refer to Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal)(Refer To List 1). Evacuate the A/C system (Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning/Plumbing - Standard Procedure). WARNING Do not remove pressure cap or any hose with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur. Drain cooling system (Refer to Cooling - Standard Procedure). Remove the front bumper facia (Refer to Frame and Bumpers/Bumpers/FASCIA, Front - Removal). Disconnect the horn connectors. Remove the bolt (1) holding the horn assembly (2) to the upper core support. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the A/C line nuts (2) at the A/C condenser. NOTE The radiator is held in place by plastic tabs. The tabs need to be compressed in order to remove the radiator. Compress the tabs (1) that hold the radiator (2) to the core support frame. located at the upper ends of the radiator. Tilt the radiator/condenser assembly away from the core support frame . Remove the trans cooler lines (2) from the condenser and position aside. Carefully lift the radiator/condenser assembly out of the vehicle between the engine and the front bumper support. Remove the bolt (2) that supports the condenser to the radiator. Separate the A/C condenser (3) from the radiator (2) by compressing the tabs at the sides.

You know what kind of synthetic fluid that was used? Is it Mopar or name brand like Mobil, Castrol, etc and is it ATF+4 or Powersteering+4? Would like to know if I change my p/s fluid to synthetic.

You could always trade in your Dodge for a new Pontiac...Oh yah, i forgot they don't exist anymore!

If you look at the door (close by the latch) you will see a circle with lock/unlock symbol that requires a flat head screw driver to switch it to the lock or unlock position.

That part# is a Dorman aftermarket part which I am guessing is probably faulty. I would invest in the OEM which is a pretty cheap replacement part found here: http://moparonlineparts.com/repair-parts.php?cPath=23_45_290 I am assuming that you have a single zone system. Instructions are here: Single Zone/Dual Zone Left Side WARNING Disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to take the proper precautions may result in accidental airbag deployment and possible serious or fatal injury. NOTE The single zone heating-A/C system is equipped with a single blend door actuator. The dual zone system has two blend door actuators, one for the driver side blend-air door and one for the passenger side blend-air door. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Disconnect the wire harness connector (1) from the blend door actuator (2) located on the left side of the HVAC air distribution housing (3). Remove the two screws (4) that secure the blend door actuator to the air distribution housing and remove the actuator. Front single zone/dual zone left side blend door actuator To install: Position the blend door actuator (2) onto the left side of the HVAC air distribution housing (3). If necessary, rotate the actuator slightly to align the splines on the actuator output shaft with those in the blend air door linkage. Install the two screws (4) that secure the blend door actuator to the air distribution housing. Tighten the screws to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm). Connect the wire harness connector (1) to the blend door actuator.

That would be an abnormally high pitched sound if it can be heard from all angles of your house with windows and doors shut. Mine makes noise off the start on a cold day but not enough to wake the neighborhood which is apparently not Sesame Street.

Don't know about fixing the issue but I would constantly remind your neighbor that if it wakes them up the should think about spending some money changing their windows and insulating their home. Really, tell your neighbor blow off.

I would say for looks, advertisement, keep dust/dirt out of connections and wires, prevent water from entering certain spots of the engine. For my Journey I would say it's strictly cosmetic on my brother Lexus ES350 which is fully covered I would say that it it is to keep clean and protect.

Grab the engine cover from both ends and pull up and you will see the beauty of the Pentastar engine. To put back on just press down until it snaps in place.

There are 3 coils in the rear that are not covered by the intake manifold but the 3 in the front you need to remove the intake manifold to gain access. You can take a look to get an idea in this thread with the diagrams provided. http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/5962-6th-cylinder-misfire/?hl=%2Bignition+%2Bcoil#entry39528

The power steering hose issue I thought was an isolated problem with 2010 DJ's (posted the recall below). We do get cold weather here in Toronto but not as bad as the Prairie region of Canadat so I'm going to stick with the factory hoses and just replace the fluid with synthetic ATF+4. Power Steering Pressure Hose Recall.pdf

I'm planning on doing a p/s flush when the weather warms up and while doing my research i see that my 2011 takes either Powersteering +4 or ATF +4. Which one is best to use? I was leaning towards ATF +4 but wonder if any long time Mopar guys here have any opinion on it.

Wow, 2015 Crossroad sounds & looks real nice!

Bonjour Psyke17! Bienvenue au Dodgejourneyforum!! That's about as much French you'll get out of me and I don't think that was any good either. Je parle francais comme une vache espagnole!!

That sucks. Sorry to hear that it turned out this way. Thanks for keeping us informed Steve.