Journey_SeXT

Great, looking forward to hearing about a job well done. BTW before you complete this weekend DIY project don't forget to pull out the caliper slide pins clean and grease them. I use this one http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-caliper-lube-80-ml-0383794p.html#.VML5r_7F-Hw and this one is also great http://www.amazon.com/Sil-Glyde-Silicone-Lubricating-Compound-Ounce/dp/B0054DWS1W

The only issue of 4 cylinders is that they are considerably under powered compared to the 3.6L. Other than that they are a pretty rock solid engine as I don't see to many complaints about them. I know that Bramfrank had the 4 cylinder so maybe he can chime in and give his opinion on them.

I ran across the Google Car in the summer with my little Hyundai Accent

I have a 2011 with no problems (knock on wood). The only chronic problem that I know of is the brakes tend to go quickly on the 09-11....also some of the earlier built 2012's have the smaller brakes and were changed mid way through the year so you may want to be aware of that before your purchase. Good Luck and hopefully we will see you here in the future posting about your new Journey purchase.

I know I did a quick search on Edmunds consumer review before joining here. The Journey was kind of a last minute purchase as my wife and I were set on the Ford Escape. This forum came after the purchase.

It doesn't say flush on my 2011 Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter(s) if using your vehicle for any of the following: police, taxi, fleet, or frequent trailer towing. Whereas the coolant specifically states: Flush and replace the engine coolant at 60 months or 104,000 miles (169 000 km) whichever comes first. I am going to say that they mean a drain and fill instead of a full flush as the term "Change" is used for the engine oil Change the engine oil and engine oil filter.

Hmmm, strange you didn't get the battery low message. Maybe you had a software update of recent and they have it worded differently.....maybe something to get people down to the dealership? Thanks for the feedback HP!!

LOL....I am glad they are much more wiser than the engineers who designed the vehicle. When it comes to tranny fluid replacement I find dealerships no better than a quickie lube place. When I'm ready have mine done I hope there will be some good youtube vids on how to do a drain and fills on a sealed unit.

Shame on your dealer as the owners manual is what they should be abiding by.

You are not alone on this as I see almost every Chrysler/Dodge vehicle with the push start has this issue. Plenty of "service keyless system" topics on their forums....the Charger forum (20 pages long) seems to fix the problem by replacing the door handles. Are you having issues entering the vehicle? Make sure you let us know what is the deal with this message Hockey_Puck.

Actually I don't think that a full flush is a good idea with over 100,000 miles on it. The drain & fill is the safer method to do.....many auto manufacturers like Honda recommend only drain and fills and not a full flush as their is a greater chance of experiencing transmission issues after the flush. That is something I would definitely get a transmission shops opinion on instead of the dealerships service center.

This is a no brainer...2012 SXT!

I have my doubts too on the wrong plug theory....especially in his 1st post he says that the plugs were changed and the problem still persists. I'm thinking another dealership or reputable mechanic would be best to try next.

Yup, already looking at the Chilton how to's.

Greater Toronto Area.

Thanks for the posting with the info Steve! Who replaced the plugs the first time you or the dealer? Also, if their is no improvement in performance either go back and make some noise or look for another dealer for a second opinion.

No way in a million years you'd find a 2013 still brand spanking new on any lot here in the GTA.

Would the idler pulley be part of the powertrain warranty? I do also have the extended warranty. I would like to get this done but I am not paying out of pocket for it.

Here is the PDF file: idler pulley noise.pdf

Congrats & welcome to the forum!!! You might want to take advantage of the free oil change soon to remove that old oil that has been sitting around for two years.

Dirty throttle body? Please post back if the fuel induction actually works...don't be another 1 post wonder statistic!

Yah, I should definitely invest in the brake tool set as my cube brake tool to rotate the piston back is really not the greatest....but works. Princess Auto also has the tool set at a decent cost.

From your 2010 Owners Manual: Oil Change Indicator Message • If an “oil change” message (shown as CHAngE OIL) appears and a single chime sounds, it is time for your next required oil change. Resetting The Light After Servicing • Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position (do not start engine). • Fully depress the accelerator pedal three times within 10 seconds. • Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position. Welcome to the forum!!

You can go to Canadian Tire or Parts Source and rent the tools needed for the brakes. Here are some DIY video's that are probably better than the instructions posted above so or can be used together. Rear Brake Pad Replacement on Dodge Journey: Front Pad Replacement: (NOT a Dodge Journey but the work is relatively the same) Paul's travel's also has many useful tutorials: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Dodge-Journey-Front-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/index.html

to start the process of piston retraction. If caliper adapter was replaced, install caliper adapter bolts (1) and tighten to 100 N-m (74 ft-lbs). REAR BRAKE PADS NOTE There are two different abutment shims. If installed in wrong orientation, pads will not fit properly. NOTE If the brake pads have a protective paper on the rear face of the brake pad plate, it must be removed before pad installation. Assure adapter abutments are free from debris or corrosion. Apply an even layer of Mopar© Brake Lubricant or equivalent to entire area of four abutments PRIOR to shim installation. Install four new pad shims (4). Place the brake pads (2, 5) in the abutment shims (4) clipped into the disc brake caliper adapter bracket (3) as shown. REAR CALIPER MOUNTING CAUTION Use care when installing the caliper (2) onto the adapter bracket to avoid damaging the guide pin boots. CAUTION When removing or installing a caliper guide pin bolt, it is necessary to hold the guide pin stationary while turning the bolt. Hold the guide pin stationary using a wrench placed upon the pin's hex-shaped head. Install the disc brake caliper (2) over the brake pads on the brake caliper adapter bracket (3). Align the caliper guide pin bolt holes with the adapter bracket. Install the upper and lower caliper guide pin bolts (1). Tighten the guide pin bolts to 35 N·m (26 ft. lbs.). TIRE AND WHEEL MOUNTING Install tire and wheel assembly (1) (Refer to Tires and Wheels - Installation). Install and tighten wheel mounting nuts (3) to 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.). Lower vehicle. Pump brake pedal several times to ensure vehicle has a firm brake pedal before moving vehicle.