John/Horace

I must have an aftermarket arm that is longer. Odd. Rocka list several brands and they all say 12". Even the longer blade works ok.

Are you sure it’s the right arm. Is there a part number for reference. OEM blade is 14” long.

The scanner you have can't retrieve most transmission codes. Even if dash mil light is not on, sticking in first gear would generate codes. Stop by a transmission shop and ask them to trouble shoot the problem. Plug in a bi-directional scanner that can be used to cycle all the sensors to find problem. Buying random parts not a good idea. If your lucky it's a bad sensor (input or output speed sensor maybe) and not entire transmission that needs rebuilding.

And water should not be trapped there. So you got the right spot. Trapped water could accelerate rusting out of car long term. Leaks are one of the most annoying car problems you can have; not often easy fixes. I propped up carpet with a few pieces of 2x2 wood. Then ran a hair dryer on low for an hour ish. If you get a mold smell, a few laundry softener dryer sheets help a bit. Carbon activated dash hvac filter also useful.

A body shop would remove your driver fender and use a product called seam sealer. Its a polyurethane used when cars are built at the factory. But if the factory drain holes are plugged, still might leak. I just feel the extra holes are a simpler cheaper solution. The fuel lines, brake lines and wire harness have to be avoided, obviously. Have had no leaks in a year now. In a previous life I use to be a bs&f assembler ( bench and structural airframe assembler) for an aircraft company. Use to drill hundreds of holes a day building wings, nasell, floor sections etc. DC9, DC10 and KC10 Air Force tankers. So I have a bit of practice drilling. Nice new sharp hss drill bits needed, small pilot hole first, then open up to bigger sizes. The three added holes are right behind the passenger front wheel, at the start of the channel that runs under the doors. Drains the water before it gets into the foam and leaks around the various anchored clips.

That weight wthout trailer brakes, illegal in some jurisdictions. The journey transmissions are not that tough...extra transmission oil cooler would be very good idea. Heavily reduced fluid change interval, the ATF4 is only semi synthetic.

My leak was passenger side, but new hole location should be similar, you can see wiring harness under carpet, I stayed away to avoid accidents. I used an extra long drill bit to clear out the factory holes. Two of them had crap in them. Probably flakes or rust, I'm in the rust belt here. This car was undercoated multiple times, the main body above is actually quite good still. The car is designed to be self draining from windshield cowling flow. Water is suppose to flow to drain holes that can handle the volume. When you drill through you hit an empty channel. Not into the carpet and car interior...like some people are thinking.

A dynamometer allows running car at speed with the wheels supported. Four wheel supported model for awd. But usually no proper access underneath. That why vibration analysis sensors normally used. A regular hoist with wheels hanging not that great. Can’t run up to 80 mph for sure. Wheels unloaded would affect normal noise creation as well.

Sounds like progress…good. This can be a very frustrating problem. There are quite a few holes in the door sill that trapped water can move to unfortunately. Silicone won’t stick to itself, that’s why I used polyurethane. I don’t think water is ever suppose to make its way inside the door channel. The foam is for sound deadening only. It may be the extra drain holes I added were the real solution. They all piss water underneath car now when the hose runs on the windshield. Inside stays completely dry.

Welcome to forum. There are some claims that non OEM filters can cause that code. If your sure pressure fine at low and high rpms, start with new oil filter and give it a few driven cycles. Don't start looking at oil pumps and solenoids until simple stuff tried, low milage engine. TPMS can be finicky, the batteries get weak eventually. Need a good scanner to really know what's happening. The schrader and dorman preprogrammed sensors from Rocka have both been plug and play for me. Not all tire shops have a good scanner and are interested in dealing with the light. Try another shop.

I get PTSD remembering my passenger side water leak last year that took three runs to fix. Drying out carpet is very time consuming, mold is baaaad. Removing fender liner is pretty important to see all the possible openings that can allow water in. Leave it off for awhile. There are drainage holes underneath the car below the driver footwell (a hose will send enough water to make them run). Most of my leak was solved with a piece of wire poking open the three drain holes. I even drilled two more 1.8" dia holes which then only left a frustrating few table spoons from a rain storm. Still enough for mold how ever. Pulling carpet back also helpful. Left it propped up with small junks of wood during the two week battle. Half a tube of black marine polyurethane stopped the last tiny leak from the channel underneath door sill. Poked out the yellow foam, acetone for clean surface adhesion of urethane. Don't buy gold fish, If you are stubborn...you can fix this.

I'm thinking drive vehicle on a hoist. Use a mechanics stethescope or vibration analysis equip and see if ptu or rear diff have the most vibration. Source a used unit from LKQ or remove unit and bring to a rebuiider. Usually too pricy. Could also remove rear diff coupler, see if oil has leaked past pinion seal. People have experienced vibration with the coupler and oil seal failing allowing oil on the normally dry coupling. Postings on this site about that. Used coupling is around $300, often comes with complete rear diff.

Transmission codes not always read with a regular obd2 scanner. A transmission shop with a bidirectional scanner should be able to trouble shoot. Just because no light on doesn't mean no codes. No forward gears can be a lot of things. Anything from tcm/computer, shifter mechanism, fluid body etc. And 2009-10 were the bad tpim years. Which can be bypassed with a home made wire harness. You are having a bad run of luck.

Oops good catch on the volume. That could be the 2009-10 model with the 3.5 engine and AWD that turned up. My owners manual doesn't indicate a number for capacity. My personal records show I got around 800 ml both times I dumped our 2014. Slight drip so last time around 50 ml less 75w90. Unit weeps a bit but not dripping on ground, about 165k miles, surprisingly original drive shaft. But lots of other front and rear end parts. Blue loctite on those driveshaft bolts when it goes together. Cheers.

From google Power Transfer Unit (PTU) fluid. 12.7 ± 1.7 fl oz (375 ± 50 ml) Beyond over filled, holy hell 250%. Better than no oil and trashed bearings. Could def create some weird noise and vibration. Its more a less a right angle gear box with straight cut gears…few roller bearings. Should have been spitting out of your vent hose under the hood. That’s the bigger puzzle. Think you found it.

Always start with scanning for codes. Check fluid to make sure it’s at proper level, doesn’t smell burnt. When was tranny oil and filter done last ? Miles/kms on vehicle?

Our 2014 has done this washed out displays a few times (it is 8.4 screen main screen). I think cycling on headlights over road the dimness right away. I believe there is a light level sensor on the dash right close to the defrost air vents. Could be getting flaky or papers on the dash could throw it off, maybe trigger it. Dim is nighttime level I assume.

Yes it has been done by several people on the site for trouble shooting. Safe, doesnt hurt anything. This facebook link to Royalty Auto Surface(good info site) shows chasis vibration sensors locating problem. Not all shops have this equipment. When I worked as a millwright mechanic before retiring, we had vibration analysis tools. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1FTMQhM1NF/

Some of us grew up on imperial and were made to switch in grade school, when feds brought in metric. I still keep house thermostat in Fahrenheit, finer adjustment. The calculator on our smart phones is great for converting, so 4 ounces is 113 grams. Yeah hate seeing huge weights on a tire. Tire with largest weight usually goes driver rear, farthest from steering wheel. Most weights double marked, here is pick of a 1oz or 28 gram and a 1.5 oz or 43 gram. Four oz would be huge, around 4 inches, but I have seen them used.

Sounds like a frustrating problem, at least the stuff you have changed out are wear items. If you keep the car you are ahead. You could paint mark all flange connections where driveshaft bolts up; then index the flanges and bolt together again. Or if you have the old shaft you could try reinstalling it. But before reinstalling another driveshaft try driving the vehicle up to vibration speed. If it’s gone you at least have the source. Driving without shaft may trigger a dash light, some people unplug the connector feeding the rear diff. It’s the coil power source for engaging awd. When changing drive shafts mechanics usually mark current location. But with a new shaft it’s not an option. Some shops do have special vibration analysis tools for trouble shooting tricky problems.

https://store.mopar.ca/oem-parts/mopar-input-seal-68268679aa Online order then pick up at dealer can be cheaper. Input Seal - Mopar (68268679AA) 2008-2019 Mopar - 68268679aa MSRP:$67.40 CAD Discount:$17.87 CAD (26.5% off) Sale Price:$49.53 CAD

Same tranny from 2009-2020:apparently. Sometimes called 40 TE as well. https://transpartsnow.com/rebuilt-solenoid-pack-a604-40te/

It sounds like either your alternator is not putting out enough power (ecm controls how much alternator charges) or possibly a problem with bad grounds or even main power connections at battery/fuse box. Lots of people on the site have replaced some of the undersized wiring with better gauge wire and cleaned up some of the main grounds (down to clean shiny metal) and then a thin film of dielectric grease. You need a tec with a multi meter and electrical knowledge to check over the main wire harness. Electrical specialist is better option than regular auto mechanic, if you can find one. Even auto starter, sound system installer are reasonable option. Older cars in the rust belt can often have issues with bad electrical connections. Not a simple diy without having some electrical back ground unfortunetly. You have already checked more than a few things yourself like HFM fuse. Bad grounds or corroded connections can create a lot of weird electrical faults with random patterns. May be as simple as post connections on battery. The dash clicking noise may be the blender door venting the cabin air to prevent moisture build up. Most cars do this, it’s around a 2 min cycle of dash louvers. If you-are having condensation issues, then it’s broken like 5rebel9 mentioned and needs changing. But not parasitic load.

According to wiki. The 40TES is used with the 2.4 L GEMA I4 engine

All transverse mount V6 engines have this starter motor design. Wife's Santa Fe v6 went over 350k kilometers with original starter. My brothers 3.5 in a Chrysler 300 went to wreckers with original working starter at 310k kms. They are designed with proper internal tolerances to function with the engine heat. These cars run in tropical countries with way more heat.. You can't likely add insulation without creating other problems. A used auto recycler OEM starter can be a better option than a cheap (often china) remanufactured nicely painted unit. If you lightly tap starter at no start and it works again. Probably solenoid contacts sticking. If not maybe armature flat spot or brushes having poor contact from heat expansion. There are some small electrical shops that can rebuild alternator/starters. Or take parts from two bad units to make one good unit.