John/Horace

I’m thinking traps, Lee valley has good stuff usually. Stay away from paint like you said. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/home/pest-control/insects/44955-spider-traps?item=AT225&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6eS258uA7AIVUsDICh0I5AEUEAQYASABEgIHe_D_BwE

Underneath head gasket location, yeah looks like it. Nice pic however. Makes flushing undoable , crap. Two sensors breaking at once seems suspicious. I guess put in a new sensor where broken one is, use engine cleaner on the used intake vvt sensor. With sensor plugged into wire harness and key on but not installed, the solenoid might cycle. Could allow better cleaning if you can cycle it a few times and spray cleaner into sensor openings. Fingers crossed.

I had a John Muir manual and stupidly gave it away. He was a man ahead of his time, former NASA engineer and a hippie, wow. Still have a semi useless Chiltons VW book, like they always are. Never own a 70’s car that talks about the 1949 model in the same book. Generator=no charging over 30 mph, not good.

My battery went down to 4 ish volts and seemed to come back. It’s still in there now and over night voltage is close to a new battery. Lithium also wouldn’t restart car, smart charger ran 4 hrs to revive battery. A fairly new battery sometimes can be revived, although no longer with 9 lives. New is safer bet. I’m just cheap. Sounds like voltage regulator in alternator shot, tries for a minute then craps out, also like mine did. Might be slight electrical burned smell from alternator. It looks like Denso is the factory unit, one of the best on the market normally; even said made in Japan on it. The dealer reman came with a new plastic guard and two new longer studs, instructions and torque specs ! Pricing was also better than local parts guys and they had it in stock; that’s how you get my business. Accepted old unit for recore as well. Had to drop glycol out with the hose in the way; not a terrible job really. Also changed out loud idler pulley, tensioner pulley was already done when belt was last year.

Found another pic, for the turbo 2.0 Cherokee vvt filter, very similar. Could be facing down with a threaded cap covering the cross shaped bottom part. Wish someone had Alldata log in, might show procedure and pics for cleaning/changing out. Mopar oem link for part. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-continuous-variable-valve-timing-filter-1028a025

I’m not sure either. I thought it was right below where sensor slid in and could be removed at same time for cleaning. Will check parts sites for better pics, hopefully. These vvt sensors get plugged on Hyundai Elantras and cause problems with missed oil changes. No screens on the Hyundai cars.

Clip from first diy car repair manual ever written in 1969 in New Mexico. Original spiral bound copies a collector item now. My first car was a Bettle, owned a total of 5 including a 1969 rag top, in my teens. I once had a very greasy copy of the book. This Clip was published on Jalopnik site. HOW TO KEEP YOUR. VOLKSWAGON ALIVE Which, sure! The more interesting fact is that Taos was the home of John Muir, who wrote “How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures For The Compleat Idiot,” first published in 1969. That book was one of the first—if not the first—repair guide in a genre—“How To Do X For Dummies”—that didn’t even exist yet. Combined with illustrations by Peter Aschwanden, “How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive” became a phenomenon among VW owners and sold millions of copies in the decades after it was published, updated frequently, even after Muir died in 1977. Here’s a representative snippet: “How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive” is full of stuff like this, both of its time and timeless. These days, spiral-bound versions sell for hundreds of dollars on Amazon but you can still get a paperback version there for around $25; alternatively, PDF versions aren’t hard to find on the internet if you go looking.

There is a recall on the power steering return line. Call dealer with your vin number, it’s no charge , I had mine changed on a 2014. Not sure about your year, call. https://repairpal.com/recall/16V273000

Running a battery flat once won’t necessarily kill it. Put it on a charger for a few hours. Then start up car and see if alternator is putting out enough charge. Leave the fuse out of trailer harness until you have things sorted out. Its not a short agreed,but it could be a constant power draw from harness. I went with a dealer reman alternator, best deal I found.

Alldata is $20 for 1 year or $40:for five years with coupon discount. All vehicle models and constantly updated repair data, tsb’s etc. There is a phone app apparently as well. Lots of commercial shops use this for reference. Someone sign up and post info for the rest of us. Someone with an expense account.? https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiU5KalwfrrAhXDVc0KHX2wBMIQFjADegQICBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fgivingassistant.org%2Fcoupon-codes%2Falldatadiy.com&usg=AOvVaw1r-dWC2UdTsKKD5d1awKYf

Doesn’t necessarily mean dealer replacement, diy is often doable I think. But the theory of longevity means they aren’t thinking of it ever needing replacement, so much harder to replace assembly in lots of cases. Aftermarket options for replacement is probably limited unless car is popular model. The cost is probably raising car accident repair costs quite a bit; lots of $500 ++ tail lights now. The lower power consumption is the big upside; with electric cars gradually taking over. Affects range capability.

I had same routine when my wife’s alternator died a few months ago, I posted about it. It was an oem Denso brand , one of the better manufacturers. Around 100k miles on unit. Trying putting battery on charger for 2 hours, see if car will start back up. Then do a load test with a multi meter and car running, turn on high load stuff like electric seats, hvac fan on full. Should be 14-14.3 under load. Sometimes they don’t just fail, but get weak. The sequence was car seeing battery losing charge, shutting off accessories, trying to keep critical stuff going, limp mode on tranny being last resort. Cooling fan would still have been left functional to protect engine. I like trailer short idea as well, something is dragging battery down.

I’ve seen the warning on a 2012 and 2014 Canadian model Journeys. Locks still worked and push button start, just warning until battery remote changed out.

If there is oil sludge, it might be preventing it to slide out. Yeah thread a bolt into it and pry out with prybar, maybe spay into gap around sensor a bit to help it slide out. If pulling straight out too difficult, try spinning it clockwise and pulling at same time. Use magnet it hole after it’s out to pick up any pieces that could have broken loose.

Heat makes plastic brittle. Isn’t the stuck piece plastic. You need to use a self tapping metal screw and thread it into the broken off piece. The pic is the part that did come off, correct.

Also buy fresh silicone rtv rated for oil use.Make sure sealant sits for 24 hrs before putting oil back in tranny. Tranny shops have special sealer that is driveable in 30 mins, not sold in regular parts stores. Degrease the sealing surfaces with non greasy solvent like lacquer thinner or acetone, not varsol. You may be able to lower only one side for clearance to bolts.

Transmissions are rebuilt out of the car, which is when covers come off I believe. Engine/transmission is held in place with a subframe. Mechanics often drop the whole thing on a hoist as one unit onto the floor. This involves unhooking all wire harnesses and both c/v shafts among other things. Very time consuming. . Lots of lube needed on the rusty bolts, you don’t want to remove them all the way. You may lose your wheel alignment, but you could loosen the subframe mounts and allow the assembly to drop an inch or so Without unhooking the usual stuff to lower whole assembly. Would need to support body really well on truck axle stands and have vehicle as high in air as possible. Might require a second set of hands pulling the frame back up using the big frame fastners. I had all four subframe fastner washers replaced on a 1988 Taurus under a recall. Steering wheel was off a quarter after job was done by dealer mechanic. Difficult part was now explaining to service advicer that they now needed to do alignment.

I have found light comes on when remote battery gets to 2.9 volts. A new battery usually has 3.3 volts. if you want to test light put a low battery in one of your remotes and it should come on in a day or so.

It’s possible subframe mounts that hold the engine/transmission frame against unibody needed tightening. Very large fastners and there is a rated torque spec. There would be 4 of them.

Welcome to the forum ! Are the cooling fans coming on when car is overheating. Aluminum engines very sensitive to over heating so need to fix ASAP. If there is still a small leak and air gets in system the pump can cavitate and overheating can still happen. Its possible thermostat is sticking (although usually they fail open) and it’s not expensive so worth trying, after confirming fan works, no leaks and fan belt decent.

To affect all four it needs to be something they all have in common like the BCM module. These systems without proper schematic drawings and some electrical training are not easy to trouble shoot. If you are handy and insist on throwing parts at it without diagnosing. The main drivers door switch is also a common item and not that expensive to buy. Free advice is worth everything you pay for it. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,electrical-switch+&+relay,power+window+switch,4624

I wouldn’t try swapping steering wheels. There would have to be the correct wiring harness already in place. A lot of this stuff is not just plug and play on the newer cars now. Ecm sometimes has to be configured for some of these options to function properly with each other. I had an older Pioneer unit with a wireless steering wheel remote years ago; it actually worked fine and strapped in place in minutes. Even hands free voice commands are getting better on most equipment if you set it up properly.

Number 3 is in the middle at the back of engine, not easy access IMO.

It’s fine to change one plug and or coil. The factory plugs are Champion, not one of my favourites. Although Monsieur Champion invented the spark plug, Ive had mixed results at times. NGK makes majority of plugs on the market, even AC Delco are owned by them now. Buy the laser cut irredium that have the same 160k rating. The platinum/irredium tip can fall off a spark plug and create a premature failure. Then generate cyclinder misfire. I had it happen to a six month old Motorcraft Ford plug a few years back. Doesn’t hurt anything, usually just exits out the exhaust valve with no damage. If your plugs have only 80k on them I would leave the other plugs for now.

I changed plugs at 148k, it’s now been 40 k on the NGK iridium plugs. Change interval is I think 160k kilometers. A shake on cold start up high idle, engine not in closed loop mode can be normal on lots of cars. Engine running rich on default start up parameters. Misfire however not normal, not enough power at plug/coil to cleanly burn fuel. There is no maf to clean on these engines. Catalytic converters can get wrecked by cyclinder misfires so it is important to deal with them fairly quickly.