John/Horace

If the old bolts look ok you can reuse if cash is tight, if head of bolt is rounded off I would replace that fastner. A torque wrench is important for tiny 40-60 inch pound fastners, very easy to break off heads. Borrow one if possible, mechanics are use to correct torque (tightness) and often don’t use one. RTV needs to cure 24 hrs before going back in service, for best results. If oil is not leaking yet, you could sand off the outer rust and if still no leak, apply a thin film of grease (very thin film) over the rusted part of oil pan. It doesn’t get hot enough to burn off and it will slow the rust temporarily until you can better deal with it. Environmental impact IMO minimal; smelting new steel and making new rtv has bigger foot print.

Given up the ghost how? What is the official diagnosis of the problem, top end,cyclinder head or cam issue, bottom end crank knocking. Maybe the mechanic you were going to have work on it has some connections for used engines.

There is an automatic purge valve for tank, could be starting to have an issue. Not expensive part. Could still be a stored code for that. Scanners are so cheap now they are worth having, one or two uses covers paying for code retrieval. I think the Elm327 Bluetooth scanner that uses phone app might be cheapest at around $18. Works best with android not Apple.

As Taylor Semi Swift has pointed out before. Haters are going to hate...... https://jalopnik.com/one-of-chryslers-worst-ever-car-platforms-dies-with-the-1844255863

My catalytic heat shield came loose towards front of car. Several sheet metal screws and washers and noise was fixed.

Oring comes with new filter and is changed every oil change. Doesn’t get old enough to harden up or wear out IMO. Torque spec is stamped in filter housing lid at 25 newton meters, eliminates guess work. I have changed oil on various Hyundai with this style plastic filter housing, one has over 200k and has never leaked. If you checked their forums you will not find it discussed. Plastic isn’t the problem imo. Common filter set up now. You don’t redesign a part that is working fine. German engineering filter design, bitog says. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4352133/all/2014_Dodge_Durango_3.6L_oil_co

Can easily grind down and chamfer the end of bolt. Cool the bolt in a water container between grinding, or use vice grips. The end of the bolt may get rusty and make it harder to retract through bracket in the future. It may not be a hardened bolt, important to not over torque.

Mechanics pointing fingers at each other for blame is never good. Man splaining as they call it, also not a pleasant experience. I fix my wife and daughters cars to help them avoid that. The oil filter housing is part of a large plastic/aluminum piece called the oil heat exchanger mounted on top of engine. The oil temperature and glycol temp sensors are also screwed into this plastic assembly. There have been a lot of problems with this assembly leaking oil. 2014 was the year with more of the problems (on my 2014 I had to replace the assembly). In some cases people are saying it’s cracked, in other cases the rubber O ring gaskets are blamed, in other cases the threaded in oil presssure switch is identified as the cause. I think it is a poorly designed part and over tightening oil filter isn’t the real cause, it’s the design. It’s a messy awkward job and fairly labor intensive. If the mechanics don’t find a crack it’s possible to just change out the O ring gasket set on the base of the heat exchanger and hope it’s ok. Approx 2 hours-ish of labor and gaskets. The whole assembly from dealer comes with new gaskets, and with new pressure switches oil/glycol installed. Pricy at $385 cdn before tax, but guarantees no second repair job with all variations of leak problem fixed.

3.6 is cop so no wires. Even if no light scan for codes. Any recent work completed? What plugs went in ?

Yeah another option, the part recyclers. On a low labour installation job like this a very good option. You didn’t need a part that is going to last another 100k if car won’t be on the road that long. https://www.car-part.com/

You will probably have a light on dash without driveshaft in place. But I think car will be driveable. Aftermarket shafts will be a little cheaper than Mopar, although not as durable.

I used android device to view clip. It’s your drive shaft, not a c/v drive axle. Pricy item to buy. May be able to remove shaft and drive in two wheel drive only for now. Mopar unit on roacka is $850 cdn dollars. Choose for Me to Minimize Cost DODGE > 2009 > JOURNEY > 3.5L V6 > Drivetrain > Drive Shaft Price Standard Replacement MOPAR 5157005AF {#05157005AE, 5157005AE} Info HATCHBACK; AWD 1 Day Delay CAD$850.32 More Information for DORMAN 946307 Add to Cart Continue Shopping

Interesting. There is even a Mopar clutch coil listed for our Journey compressor. More Information for MOPAR 5140461AA Add to Cart Continue Shopping 1 / 3 Point to Zoom Safari - Jun 22, 2020 at 7:15 PM.pdf

your pic doesn’t work. WAG drive shaft flex joint. Is this the pic? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,drivetrain,drive+shaft+flex+joint,10701

Confusing. Probably M4 just bring one to a good auto parts store and they can match it. If one bolt is missing/snapped it will probably leak there even with a new gasket. With pan off the old bolt will need to be drilled out and tapped for a new bolt. Hope it doesn’t snap off flush, with pan off might be able to get vice grips on stub.

But clutchless is newer tec and the Journey hasn’t been updated at all in years. Still a 4 -6 speed tranny and hydraulic steering. Here is a photo of your compressor with a big clutch driven pulley from RoackA. And clutch pic.

They charged to say I don’t know? Was bottom part of universal removed at rack to isolate things, awkward spot so I doubt it. Dealer might be only option now; they may have already seen this problem before. I would unhook sway bar end links on both sides and drive for a few days. Doesn’t cost anything. Back suspension very involved with multi bushings, front is simple.

Look for the aftermarket alarm under the dash and pull the main plug. I think two systems are interfering with each other. Hood has a small switch on passenger side fender that is made when hood is closed. Make sure it is being fully depressed. Could even check continuity on switch with multi meter. Shim it if needed.

Could be dozens of different things. Scanning for obd codes even if no dash light always a good start. Any recent repair work done on vehicle? When car is running in park does it seem normal, no shaking or sputtering?

Good shops tend to be busier than crappier ones IMO. I would rather pay for a correct diagnosis than get a free wrong diagnosis. Around where I am you are expected to leave your car for the day for just about any car repair; which is why I do 95% of my own repairs. To do my cruise control flash, the work order showed around 0.2 hrs, car was there from 9 am until pickup at 2 pm. But warranty work I expect to be at the back of the line. Understandable.

I think in an hour a decent mechanic should be able to figure it out. If he says up front not good enough, I would bail. I try to avoid jerks, maybe just a bad day. If recommended through friends might be ok.

Interesting. Bad universal would get progressively worse imo. Bad rack might start to leak, or power steering pump start to get substantially louder. Could pay mechanic or dealer an hour to specifically diagnose problem. Make that clear, no top ten guesses but exact cause with firm repair quote. Can be difficult to get, lots of parts changers around. Weird odd ball stuff dealer should excel at, with more specific repair experience.

Mechanics stethoscope on either end of shaft may be able to isolate noise. Pic is a princess auto chepo I’ve had for years. Diagnosing hardest part of car repair IMO. Throwing parts at a vehicle gets expensive fast.

Or use a spark plug tester. It goes in line with installed plug and coil, flashes light when it gets high voltage signal. Harbour Freight/Princess Auto sells them, not expensive. Less risk of shocking the monkey ?

Wow that’s loud as hell and annoying. Sounds metallic, not rubbing plastic bits. My F150 steering shaft had no rattle but huge amounts of play In it. It was obvious the universals has too much play, at 200k miles. The shafts are designed in an accident to come apart and not skewer the driver. You have a few options to narrow things down. Paint mark universal and rack mounting shaft; then remove the shaft from the rack and see if there is play or clicking when the rack is moved full lock to lock, left to right. It’s possible sound is being transmitted into cabin from bad hydraulic rack unit. Test dash universal by removing shaft and flexing by hand checking for noises. Steering wheel can’t be moved more than approx 40 degrees without possibly affecting clockspring wire that triggers airbags. Unhook battery and be careful. Contact dealer and see what steering part they actually are stocking...the moving part is often the weakest link. Good dealers will mention when you are buying part they never ever sell and when it’s an item on back order because it’s sold so often.