JGrimm

130k

I went and got the Mitchel myself, and you are correct it's behind the fucking PTU, what a stupid fucking setup.

I have spent the last 4 hours trying to find this damn thing on my 2012 3.6L Journey and I can not find it. All the youtube videos for Journeys are for the 2.4L and anything else for the Pentastar V6 is just not correct for the Journey. I tired watching videos for both the Caravan and Avenger but because they are not AWD, the underside looks different. Any diagram I've found is also wrong. The engine is throwing a code for a bad sensor and I am also getting the symptoms of one. Where the hell is this thing?

Hi I see my thread was referenced lol, so I'm gonna ask if you let the engine sit for 24hrs with the rad cap off the reservoir yet? I had never even heard of doing that before but my Russian neighbor who was a mechanic in the mother country, said that if you have air in a component that is far from the bleed screw that the screw can actually trick you into thinking the systems been bleed when it actually hasn't and the best thing to do it what I just mentioned. If the Rad cap is left off, Physics will causes any big pockets of trapped air to escape via the reservoir. So I had bled our journey via the screw and it was pissing coolant, so that means the air has been purged right? Wrong! That night I filled the reservoir to the brim, and left it. 24hours later the entire thing was dry and the car ate, I shit you not, an entire gallon of coolant before it reached the cold fil line. So there was a TON of air in the system. It was only after doing that and replacing the Rad Cap did the car begin working properly again. Also I rented a Combustion Block Tester from O'Reilys to check for a head gasket leak just for peace of mind, it's super easy to test. Mine came back negative.

Whelp looks like it was completely my fault on this one. Just took it on a 20min drive on the highway, Temps stayed at 210-212F. No boiling Needed a proper bleeding and a new rad cap, thanks guys

I just bought the hoses to reverse flush the heater core, I'm also going to replace the radiator since they are so cheap.

Okay update I left the radiator cap off overnight and the reservoir was full when I went to bed. When I checked it today, it was empty. I filled it up and put a new cap on that I got at o'reilys. I think the issue may have been fixed, I was able to rev the engine quite a bit without getting a boil over with the new cap and I took it out for a drive on city streets and didn't get an overheat. Going to test on the highway tonight. The only issue is it is still running hot to me, hanging around 212 degrees while idle and driving. Possible bad radiator? Also on a plus, I'm suddenly getting heat blowing in the cab, not as hot as it should be but it's way more than before.

I will try a new cap Another important thing I forgot to mention, is after she got the low oil and I went to her place and filled it up with oil, she drove it 40 miles on the highway back to my house. No issues, it then sat in my garage for over a week while I changed the oil cooler gaskets and we went on a trip with my car. It did not start this over heat thing until after worked the oil cooler and she got it back on the highway.

Oh also I don't get any heat blowing through the cabin, but this was an issue before the overheating happened

So my g/f was driving our Journey back to the her house which is about 30 miles from mine when she got a check engine light. I went over the next day and the CEL was for low oil. I checked her oil level and it was dangerously low. It was the Famous Oil Cooler Gasket leak, I replaced the gaskets, and the pressure and Temp Sensors. Took the Car on some errands for a day and it was fine, checked the oil and the level was good. The next day she was driving on the highway when her High Engine Temperature Alert went off, she immediately got off, parked and shut the engine off. The Coolant Reservoir was steaming and boiling over. I got there about an hour later, engine was mostly cooled off. I first decided to bleed the coolant system and there was air in it, I had forgotten to do that after replacing the Oil Cooler. I got the engine to operating temperature and it was running a little hot at idle between 210 and 212 and was hovering there just fine. But as soon as I rev'd the engine to about 3000 rpms the Reservoir would start boiling over and the temperature would start to climb. I had this happen to my Charger and it was a bad thermostat, so I got it home and I drained the coolant, replaced the thermostat, bleed the system. And no change, same issue. Engine idles hot, and temps increase when I step on the gas, Reservoir boils over. I checked the fan, and it doesn't turn on until the car hits about 220 degrees, and doesn't go to high speed until 228, I don't think that is right? She doesn't have white smoke out of the tail pipe, nor milky coolant or oil, so I don't think it's a head gasket? Any ideas what else could be causing this sudden overheating issue and reservoir boil? I am not finding any coolant leaks or cracked hoses

I am going to replace the battery, I have read alot of weird electrical issues on the Journey stem from a bad battery.

Don't have any stored codes I have not added any LED Bulbs, every thing is stock I will load test the battery

Just bought a 2012 3.6L AWD SXT I noticed that while the engine is running and the vehicle is idling with the fan on in the cabin doesn't matter if the AC is on or off. About every 30 seconds the fan speed will slow down and then speed back up and continue doing that until I'm driving again. I checked it at home and saw that why idling, the interior dome light will dim and brighten and well as the headlights, but not the dash or radio. This only happens at idle. Not with the engine off and not while moving. I replaced the alternator and it still happens. I then read it's a bad design with the voltage regulators for these vehicles? And it's normal to happen. I also read it could be a bad battery cell? Another issue I get is about half the time I go to start I get a long start, with the starter cranking over for about 2-3 seconds before starting. Other times it starts right away? I thought maybe the fuel pump, but I can hear it turn on when I put the car into run. Any thoughts? Thanks