Armando G

It's a 2015 with a substantial reproducible problem.  This isn't rocket science - it's a warranty claim (assuming you are under 36,000 miles).
 
Maybe there's a way to add a mileage field for all posters with less than 15 posts.  That would certainly help drill home the idea that year, mileage, engine, and trim (we already know make and model) are necessary pieces of information when trying to help resolve issues.

Sounds like a battery issue to me. Most auto parts store will test your battery for free...get it checked to reassure yourself (or convince yourself). 

Why bother to type this and just get rid of it you say?.mmmm well maybe you have $50,000 to piss away. But i sir do not.. and yes we all know every car conpany has issue... 
 
But after spending $50,000 and to be treated like you bought a dinky car when you are having an issue with the vehicle is just not right. I posted this just like most of the post in this thred letting people know i feel their pain.
 
By the looks of every other post in this thred. Every dodge dealership is the same.. 
 
 

Between my crossbars and roof top carrier from Sears (about $180...much cheaper than the Thule ones), family trips are much easier and roomier. I tried the canvas bag carrier, but it felt like a parachute (returned it the day after I got back). Highway miles dropped to about 19 MPG with the canvas one. With the new carrier, it stays at around 23/24 MPG. And I don't need to really fill it completely.
 

Have not done it on my Journey but did try it on another previous truck. Was even advised to put a touch of sealant when done. Result...ended up replacing it shortly there-after.

you made it sound hard and expensive to remove the emblems... i used bumper sticker remover from autozone and just sprayed it on and let it set a minute then used my fingernail to lift the edge of the emblem and then sprayed a little more of the spray and slowly removed the emblem then wiped it clean ..done ...easy peasy  no heat gun no fishing wire no decal eraser or power drill

FYI...If you can't get that site to work (which I'm not sure why), you can always register on the Dodge site and get your build sheet there. 
 

I hate to say it, but I agree.

Ads will be deleted after 6 months.

You should feel bad. EVERYONE knows that Chevy and Ford make every single vehicle perfect and that they are the only manufacturer that is not subject to mechanical failure. Well, at least in America. All of those Japanese manufacturers do the same thing. Dodge's will always fail prematurely and the metal they use just won't hold up. I bet you'll never make that mistake again!
EDIT: Or...just maybe your dealer is an idiot. Just a thought. There is only so much that can clunk over a bump...

The reality is that we can all try to guess what the problem could be. If it isn't a common issue, which this does not seem to be, every guess could be wrong and ultimately costly. Even with a replaced alternator, the 'new' alternator could still be the issue. If you can get it running with a jump, there is basically a drain somewhere. Best bet is to take it to an electrical specialty shop and let them use their expensive equipment to find the issue for you. If they are wrong, they will need to try again on their dime. Even if you pay for a diagnosis and do the work yourself, you will still save a very valuable amount of time (and headache). Electrical issues are not like getting a flat tire. You'll never have to guess which tire to replace. Electrical, try and figure out which wire or 50+ electrical component is causing the issue. If you've tested the basics, hand out over to an expert.
Good luck.

HOLY #?!^!!! $800 for an alternator...guess that's cheap under warranty. Thank God for that.

To be fair, warped rotors seemed to have been an issue with many car brands in the early 2000-2010. I had the same issue with my Ford Windstar, neighbor had the issue with his Caravan, and my sister's Explorer. All along, my Ford Explorer (Eddie Bauer) had huge rotors and pads that lasted forever with no issues. Only one rotor replacement in over 15 years. I guess the car makers weren't expecting these utility style vehicles to be used for that purpose.
If you are getting that shaking, get it fixed ASAP. It can be a really dangerous situation. Rotors are not hard to replace on the DJ if you have basic mechanical knowledge. And from what I see, parts are not that expensive.
Good luck.

The reality is that we can all try to guess what the problem could be. If it isn't a common issue, which this does not seem to be, every guess could be wrong and ultimately costly. Even with a replaced alternator, the 'new' alternator could still be the issue. If you can get it running with a jump, there is basically a drain somewhere. Best bet is to take it to an electrical specialty shop and let them use their expensive equipment to find the issue for you. If they are wrong, they will need to try again on their dime. Even if you pay for a diagnosis and do the work yourself, you will still save a very valuable amount of time (and headache). Electrical issues are not like getting a flat tire. You'll never have to guess which tire to replace. Electrical, try and figure out which wire or 50+ electrical component is causing the issue. If you've tested the basics, hand out over to an expert.
Good luck.

Out of curiosity, were you changing it just because...our are you having issues? My auto parts store around here let's you rent or borrow specialty tools like a press. Ever try that? They can help you make sure you have the right size for what you are doing.
Good luck and post pictures if you do get it done.

Great tip and thanks for the included pic.
Another perfect reason I like this site, helpful hints that will inevitably save someone time and money.

A little helpful hint for those who seem to have issues even after replacing the bulbs . So I replaced the bulb  several times in my back left reverse tail light with no success. On the rear door on the upper left hinge there is a cased wiring which feeds the back door panel. Pull back on the protective casing and look at wiring. In my case there where 4 wires broken . These wires are colour coded and should be easy to strip back and add a splice  in. Hope this helps people save money. Not the most attractive fix but efficient.

Thank you so much this really helps me.  

They are not marked, but it's pretty obvious which one goes in front and back when you go to install them. One is longer than the other. I believe longer one goes on the front. You can also use the brackets to hook your tie straps or tire a rope to. Great value.

If you've done all the 'basic' steps (and more from what you wrote), then it's time to take it in. Although I did get a bad water pump once. I had another vehicle that did the same, I replaced a few things, and it kept over heating. It finally over heated one time too many (while I was testing it), that the engine finally gave out. Cost was $3500 to fix, problem was a $29 sensor that I did not know about...and wasn't even written about on any forum. I just didn't want to pay the $85 diagnoses charge...never again. 

I can't speak for the location of the antenna, but the TPM Module should be located in the driver side rear wheel housing protected by the splash shield.  It's connected to the electrical system via a single wiring harness and attached to the body via two nuts mounted on a pair of studs.
 
As a final bit of troubleshooting - are you absolutely certain that the pressure displayed for the front wheels matches reality?  Take a weekend morning, set all 4 wheels to 36 PSI, and drive for 10 minutes.  Park, wait 20 minutes, and decrease the pressure in one of the recognized wheels (at 29 PSI, the warning light would kick in, but all you're looking for is a substantial change in recorded pressure from that wheel).  Drive another 10 minutes.  Does that wheel show the correct pressure.  If measured reality and module reported pressures don't match, just replace the module.  The next step, although more expensive, might be to replace all four pressure sensors/valve stems.  6 years is about the expected lifespan of those batteries.
 
The description I'm reading regarding that module is that it is self contained.  As best as I can tell (confirm with your local Fiat dealer), the part number is 56029542AC.  There are two re-learn procedures that will work to recognize the new module, should you choose to install it.  The first requires a scan tool (unlikely that you have one).  The second is much less complicated - keep your Journey off for 20 minutes, then start it and drive above 15 MPH for at least 10 minutes.
 
As for installation, it's painfully simple and as obvious as it seems once you look at it.  Remove the splash shield (presumably, you know how to remove plastic rivets in such a way as to render them re-usable), remove the wiring harness, remove the nuts that attach the sensor, re-attach everything.  Finish waiting 20 minutes, then drive.
 
Good luck!

Every light in the car!?!? Yes, I would definitely bring it back.
Good luck.

Curt hitch packaged with the receiver, ball, and wiring kit is the way to go. Ebay has the package deal for under $190 and installation is easy (if you have at least basic car skills). I installed my hitch and wiring harness by myself without even having to jack it up. Just keep in mind that you will most likely use the receiver in the 'rise' position since the hitch sits a little low. I would of loved to use the pre-installed harness (connector was $80), but the 2 dealers I went to couldn't figure out if they would be able to flash my specific car. I was told to buy the harness and then they would give it a try. I could then return the harness if it didn't work, minus the restocking fee. Finally decided to go with the Curt wiring harness and it works like a charm.

That size trailer is a perfect size for your Journey. I just moved my daughter on a 1000 mile move and my DJ did great. After loading the trailer and a few things in the back of the truck I was just over 1800 lbs (lucked out with a dump weigh station that let me weigh my load). Drive was a combination of heavy traffic city driving, over the grapevine in CA (mountain), and then some flat interstate driving. Weather was about 100 degrees and I had no issues. I did shut the AC off when climbing the mountain, but ran it pretty much the whole trip. I also used the manual shifter over the curvy mountain road to make sure I down shifted when necessary. I will say, I hit some high winds on the flat interstate and really felt that.
Three things to keep in mind...1. Don't drive too fast as tempting as it is, 2. Make certain the receiver/tongue is level so your tongue weight doesn't exceed the suggested max, 3. DON'T OVERLOAD.
Good luck.

3.6 is max 2500 lbs. keep in mind this is combined weight. Trailer, cargo, passengers.