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lmoore1436

Journey Member
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Everything posted by lmoore1436

  1. I think most people like seeing that they got their value out of the vehicle when they mention the high mileage... It is also a way to let people who are just researching the Journey and "passing through" the site know that it's not a bad investment. Either way it's great that you have enjoyed your DJ! In relation to it being built in Mexico, not a single vehicle is strictly American, and I'd be willing to bet quite a bit of money that not a single car anywhere uses parts from just one country (aside from Tesla). The Journey was being built in Mexico when under the Daimler era, when Dodge, Chrysler and Jeep were going through very rough times. They made that decision as a cost move, and because the Avenger (which the journey shares a platform) was being built there as well. The automotive landscape is very reliant on global business for profit, which is why it is hard to find vehicles designed, engineered and built in a single country. Dodge, Ford, Chevy are all American brands that built the auto industry in this country so you definitely bought as American as you can!
  2. I don't think the exhaust would make much of a power difference on the DJ. It might sound better but you won't notice much gain at all performance wise. As far as visual, I can't see much at all from behind, especially when I'm in another car. It's up to you whether you think it's worth it. If you are looking for more performance I think there are tons of other things you should be focusing on other than shedding maybe 10lbs from the exhaust.
  3. lmoore1436

    Certified ?

    You got it! There are other factors too... like the purpose it was used for. Rental vehicles and fleet vehicles normally won't be certified. Which there are a lot of DJs as rental cars so that may be a factor as well.
  4. Did you try starting it with the second key? Depending on what brand/quality of battery you placed in the key it may need to be changed again. If that doesn't work then I would look at the battery, just to make sure you rule out the simple things before you take it in to the dealer. Also unplug the battery and let it sit for about thirty minutes, if there is an electrical "glitch" then this just might fix it. Good luck, and let us know what happens!
  5. lmoore1436

    Certified ?

    The certified requirements are actually defined by FCA, and the inspection/replacement criteria are set by them as well. Here is the FCA website describing what their definition of "certified" is and what is necessary. http://www.certifiedpreowned.chrysler.com/
  6. lmoore1436

    Certified ?

    So certified means that everything has been looked over and replaced if it doesn't meet the manufacturers specifications (electronics, mechanical, suspension, tires, brakes, anything that is wear/tear included). Certified also means that if it is over the 36k bumper to bumper warranty is up, that the coverage will be extended. Most manufacturers extend it an extra year or 12k miles. You'd also have the option of purchasing the mopar extended lifetime warranty without getting the vehicle inspected (since it was just "refurbished" to the manufacturers specs).
  7. The warranty starts on the day it was sold. Also it isn't unusual for vehicles to be serviced before being sold. This could happen due to recalls and inspections are recorded as "being serviced". If it was sold as new than more than likely that is the case, and I don't see any trips back to the dealership afterwards to be serviced.
  8. Ah okay... Still I think since mechanically they are very similar the SXT with only 50k miles would be a better choice. Just be careful and make sure the vehicle wasn't used as a rental/fleet vehicle. Some people have good luck with them but I know I personally am not the most delicate rental driver. Also have it looked over by an independent mechanic just to be safe.
  9. There isn't anything other than styling that would make the Crossroad a better buy. I would be more worried about doing business with a dealer that charges more for a vehicle with 90k miles than one with 50k.
  10. I think the rear looks good without them! I wouldn't remove the one up front though... In my opinion the little bit of red in the grill makes it look more sporty (or as sporty as a 3 row SUV could look)!
  11. Me either... He didn't mention if he had changed the battery since he purchased the vehicle, but if not then it could have been corroded from an acid leak.
  12. I certainly wasn't kidding... You didn't give much context to when you found out, circumstances, etc. When I take my DJ to the dealer to get an oil change I'm given a sheet with the inspection information on it. If i fact it was rotted, and you had recently taken it to the dealership where they performed an oil change and inspection and they marked it as in good condition have them replace it. I also agree that it would cause an out of control motion, however it hasn't come up as an issue before (other than being an annoyance). This picture is of a 2011 DJ battery, and the shelf looks like it is in perfect condition. If there was rot, rusting or corrosion on yours it should have been noticed a while ago and you should have mentioned it to the dealer. You are also supposed to check on the battery yourself, as it is your vehicle and ultimately your responsibility. Also, I find it hard to believe that this 2011 shelf is in perfectly good condition but yours was about to cost your life. Are there any extreme weather circumstances? Here is a video showing a 2009 battery that was changed and still looks to be in great condition. Was your splash guard in place when you changed your battery? That is what prevents moisture from accumulating.
  13. Dang, you may have to go to the dealer... They might be able to tell you where it is and how to replace if you just get a diagnostic.
  14. Chilton has an online manual that may be able to shed more light on what needs to be done, here is the link: http://repair.chiltondiy.com/Pub/DIY/Product.aspx?ca=Repair&b=130127 I've used their manuals a few times for some older cars that I had and they were always helpful. Haynes unfortunately doesn't have one for the Journey.
  15. Do you mean anything newer than 2009? I know once FCA started using the Pentastar they combined a lot of components. Your mechanic does sound right though, steering pump may be drawing too much power.
  16. I would buy an OEM one just to be on the safe side. If anything were to happen with the accelerator while you were driving you'd be screaming expletives because you bought one from somewhere else! If anything does go wrong again with the OEM one, the good news is that it will be covered under warranty. That's the main benefit for going with the dealership, once you replace a part that part is under warranty for I believe 2 years (may want to double check that). How many miles do you have on your DJ? 6 years isn't very old
  17. Welcome to the forums! Congrats on your acquisition, for mods on the 2009 model the first thing I would do is look at putting some larger brakes on, that is one of the largest complaints made.
  18. Well since it is causing an issue with both heated seats and the steering wheel I would say that it is probably something wrong with the head unit itself, or the wiring. How many miles are on the DJ? The manufacturers warranty is transferable if you are within the 36k, and up until that point you can also purchase the mopar extended warranty. As far as Honda and Mitsubishi, I'm sure you realize that technology has made mostly all vehicles infinitely more complicated. My 2016 civic cruise control wouldn't work because of a bad sensor on one of the wheels and it took 4 trips to the dealer to figure that one out. Mitsubishi is basically a shell of the company it used to be so I wouldn't put too much faith in them either, they're cheap but it seems like they've been struggling for a while.
  19. Yeah it is nice, but I think it is mostly for vehicles that have the newest version of Uconnect, and vehicles that can be equipped with ACC. All we would have in the Journey is a bunch of useless buttons!
  20. Keep in mind also that the 2010 was an early model... 2009 was the first year they began making it, and this was the time that the chrysler group was cutting as many costs as they could. Common issues for 2010 were the undersized brakes, transmission lock and suspension issues. Have it looked over by a private mechanic before driving away.
  21. Honestly they may throw codes, while the tail lights are LED they will draw more power than the tail lights themselves. What I would do is just make sure whoever is selling them also offers support or a warranty for their product. Since the majority of the support they advertise is for the Grand Cherokee I imagine they will be able to offer a workaround if anything does go wrong ECM wise, but it never hurts to email them and make sure ahead of time.
  22. Make sure you get everything they say in regards to the car in writing. Sure it is possible, but like @jkeaton said it is going to cost a lot more than just buying some seats. The entire rear of the vehicle has different trim pieces, cargo area, and floor loading level. You should have looked it up before buying, I make a habit of looking stuff up at the dealer before making a decision. Sales people can be tricky little boogers.
  23. If I'm not mistaken, from 2011-2017 the suspension hasn't changed (unless it is a GT model). The Journey is one of the lower riding SUVs, so if you do want to lower it I wouldn't do it by much, I've hit lots of bumps with a "SUPRISE! It's much deeper than you think"!
  24. What I wanna know is if they have them tricked out, like the SHO explorer! If it was doing crosswalk duty it probably isn't being used for chases but it would still be cool!
  25. PCM is the powertrain control module... You won't be able to check that yourself, unless you want to replace every sensor that could possibly cause this code before you decide it is the PCM. My recommendation is go and get it tested by the dealer (likely will only be a diagnostics fee), and then replace whatever they say the issue is to save yourself the labor cost. From the link that @bramfrank listed, one of the first results is that a simple PCM reset could do the trick. The first thing I would always start off with is pulling the battery cables for at least 30 minutes to an hour just to make sure that it isn't something wonky with the electronics. Plus it's free! Let us know if that fixes the problem or what the dealer says!
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