CameraGuy

Roller rocker arms tend to wear out over time and need to be replaced. It’s also a known issue that they tend to go bad on the right side (bank 1) of the 3.6 pentastar motors. I’m not sure why, but there is a very noticeable difference in discoloration of the parts between the two sides of the motor. The only difference I can think of is the pcv valve on the right side.
 
I will say, that had I done the repairs when the tapping first started, I probably wouldn’t have had to replace the camshaft also. Those are around $350 USD each just for the part. The faulty rocker arm ground the cam lobe down over time and it needed to be replaced. So my advice would be to take care of issues as they arise rather than letting them go to do more damage.
 
Aside from the repairs I did today, I’ve only needed regular maintenance so far. Oil changes, brakes, tires, and spark plugs. Don’t get discouraged by all the posts about issues in the forums. That’s only a handful of people and most don’t post when things are running right. There are a ton of journeys on the road, and I imagine there are quite a few with high mileage. 
 
I’d love to keep mine for another 100k+ miles….I like not having a car payment lol

I can’t say for certain, though someone in one of the YouTube videos I watched claimed that they did. I’m not sure that the rocker arms are to blame though. They have bearings in them, and bearings wear out over time. 

Yes he does, though it would have been more helpful if he had shown everything with the engine in a vehicle, rather than out on a stand. That made everything look so much easier…especially turning the crank to line up the timing marks (I could only get at it from underneath the car), and working on anything on the right side of the engine, which is tucked up under the dash a bit in our journeys.

Yes he does, though it would have been more helpful if he had shown everything with the engine in a vehicle, rather than out on a stand. That made everything look so much easier…especially turning the crank to line up the timing marks (I could only get at it from underneath the car), and working on anything on the right side of the engine, which is tucked up under the dash a bit in our journeys.

I didn’t take a many pics, but got a couple with the covers off and a couple of the damaged cam shaft. I’m the pic of the camshaft, both lobes should be the same length….you can see how the bad rocker arm just ground it down over time and why you shouldn’t leave things too long.

Roller rocker arms tend to wear out over time and need to be replaced. It’s also a known issue that they tend to go bad on the right side (bank 1) of the 3.6 pentastar motors. I’m not sure why, but there is a very noticeable difference in discoloration of the parts between the two sides of the motor. The only difference I can think of is the pcv valve on the right side.
 
I will say, that had I done the repairs when the tapping first started, I probably wouldn’t have had to replace the camshaft also. Those are around $350 USD each just for the part. The faulty rocker arm ground the cam lobe down over time and it needed to be replaced. So my advice would be to take care of issues as they arise rather than letting them go to do more damage.
 
Aside from the repairs I did today, I’ve only needed regular maintenance so far. Oil changes, brakes, tires, and spark plugs. Don’t get discouraged by all the posts about issues in the forums. That’s only a handful of people and most don’t post when things are running right. There are a ton of journeys on the road, and I imagine there are quite a few with high mileage. 
 
I’d love to keep mine for another 100k+ miles….I like not having a car payment lol

Hello all,
 
I just finished my “185000 mile tuneup” on my 2016 journey rt awd today. The engine has had the infamous rocker arm tapping for quite some time. I finally started getting some low end power loss from it and decided to dive in and do it myself. I ordered 24 rocker arms, 24 lifters, 6 plugs, 6 ignition coils, a pcv valve, and all the gaskets needed as well. 
 
Upon opening the right side valve cover, I immediately spotted a damaged exhaust cam lobe, which showed me where the faulty rocker arm was. After inspecting the rest of the cams, I found both left side cams to essentially be as good as new, and found some heavy pitting on one of the cam lobes on the right side intake cam as well. I drove to the dealership and picked up both right side cam shafts.
 
Once I began, I found the left side to go smoothly, but had some issues with the right side. I ended up stripping three of the exhaust cam bearing cap bolts. Two came out fairly easily, while the third took quite a while, but eventually came loose with a pair of vise grips locked tightly on the bolt head. Had to make another trip to the dealership to replace the bolts. Also, in case you’re wondering, yes I also bought the $15 kit of tools to lock the cam phasers and release the timing chain tension, as opposed to using less than desirable methods of removal.
 
After buttoning everything back up, and hitting the start button, the engine revved extremely high, very briefly, but then idled normally after that. Upon putting my foot on the brake pedal, I realized something was wrong…and found that I had forgotten to reconnect the brake booster vacuum line.
 
After fixing that issue, everything is running quiet, smooth, with no more tapping or power loss. Hindsight being what it is, I kinda wish I had just paid a mechanic to do the job. Lol
 
In any case, I just wanted to share that and hope this may help others fix their issues as well. Feel free to comment, ask questions, etc
 
-CG

Roller rocker arms tend to wear out over time and need to be replaced. It’s also a known issue that they tend to go bad on the right side (bank 1) of the 3.6 pentastar motors. I’m not sure why, but there is a very noticeable difference in discoloration of the parts between the two sides of the motor. The only difference I can think of is the pcv valve on the right side.
 
I will say, that had I done the repairs when the tapping first started, I probably wouldn’t have had to replace the camshaft also. Those are around $350 USD each just for the part. The faulty rocker arm ground the cam lobe down over time and it needed to be replaced. So my advice would be to take care of issues as they arise rather than letting them go to do more damage.
 
Aside from the repairs I did today, I’ve only needed regular maintenance so far. Oil changes, brakes, tires, and spark plugs. Don’t get discouraged by all the posts about issues in the forums. That’s only a handful of people and most don’t post when things are running right. There are a ton of journeys on the road, and I imagine there are quite a few with high mileage. 
 
I’d love to keep mine for another 100k+ miles….I like not having a car payment lol

Hello all,
 
I just finished my “185000 mile tuneup” on my 2016 journey rt awd today. The engine has had the infamous rocker arm tapping for quite some time. I finally started getting some low end power loss from it and decided to dive in and do it myself. I ordered 24 rocker arms, 24 lifters, 6 plugs, 6 ignition coils, a pcv valve, and all the gaskets needed as well. 
 
Upon opening the right side valve cover, I immediately spotted a damaged exhaust cam lobe, which showed me where the faulty rocker arm was. After inspecting the rest of the cams, I found both left side cams to essentially be as good as new, and found some heavy pitting on one of the cam lobes on the right side intake cam as well. I drove to the dealership and picked up both right side cam shafts.
 
Once I began, I found the left side to go smoothly, but had some issues with the right side. I ended up stripping three of the exhaust cam bearing cap bolts. Two came out fairly easily, while the third took quite a while, but eventually came loose with a pair of vise grips locked tightly on the bolt head. Had to make another trip to the dealership to replace the bolts. Also, in case you’re wondering, yes I also bought the $15 kit of tools to lock the cam phasers and release the timing chain tension, as opposed to using less than desirable methods of removal.
 
After buttoning everything back up, and hitting the start button, the engine revved extremely high, very briefly, but then idled normally after that. Upon putting my foot on the brake pedal, I realized something was wrong…and found that I had forgotten to reconnect the brake booster vacuum line.
 
After fixing that issue, everything is running quiet, smooth, with no more tapping or power loss. Hindsight being what it is, I kinda wish I had just paid a mechanic to do the job. Lol
 
In any case, I just wanted to share that and hope this may help others fix their issues as well. Feel free to comment, ask questions, etc
 
-CG

Hello all,
 
I just finished my “185000 mile tuneup” on my 2016 journey rt awd today. The engine has had the infamous rocker arm tapping for quite some time. I finally started getting some low end power loss from it and decided to dive in and do it myself. I ordered 24 rocker arms, 24 lifters, 6 plugs, 6 ignition coils, a pcv valve, and all the gaskets needed as well. 
 
Upon opening the right side valve cover, I immediately spotted a damaged exhaust cam lobe, which showed me where the faulty rocker arm was. After inspecting the rest of the cams, I found both left side cams to essentially be as good as new, and found some heavy pitting on one of the cam lobes on the right side intake cam as well. I drove to the dealership and picked up both right side cam shafts.
 
Once I began, I found the left side to go smoothly, but had some issues with the right side. I ended up stripping three of the exhaust cam bearing cap bolts. Two came out fairly easily, while the third took quite a while, but eventually came loose with a pair of vise grips locked tightly on the bolt head. Had to make another trip to the dealership to replace the bolts. Also, in case you’re wondering, yes I also bought the $15 kit of tools to lock the cam phasers and release the timing chain tension, as opposed to using less than desirable methods of removal.
 
After buttoning everything back up, and hitting the start button, the engine revved extremely high, very briefly, but then idled normally after that. Upon putting my foot on the brake pedal, I realized something was wrong…and found that I had forgotten to reconnect the brake booster vacuum line.
 
After fixing that issue, everything is running quiet, smooth, with no more tapping or power loss. Hindsight being what it is, I kinda wish I had just paid a mechanic to do the job. Lol
 
In any case, I just wanted to share that and hope this may help others fix their issues as well. Feel free to comment, ask questions, etc
 
-CG

Sure it worked ok for a while...it had some nice features, and some that were annoying (complete stop to enter addresses)...but now it completely useless to me with at least 2-3 years before I even think about looking for a new vehicle.  The problem I have with mine failing is that I see a clear trend that has been well documented on the net for years yet there is no fix, if it was just mine and maybe a few here and there over the years then you could chalk it up to a bad unit.
 
I guarantee that for every one person who complains about it online there are at least a dozen more that don't, and It's not just DJs that's have the issues. I'm sure Chrysler has some record of how many have come into their dealerships service departments with this problem and if we saw the true numbers we would all be screaming about it.  Dart, patriot and several other Chrysler  owner forums have similar threads, all with an eerily similar lack of a cure for the problem. The RB5 is not available in all Chrysler vehicles, but it does appear to fail in everyone that it is....

That's good. You hadn't specified so i just wanted to make sure. The 3.5 did make a light, almost muffled ticking/tapping noise that was always there, but it did not get louder at higher Rpm. Have you noticed any loss of power since the noise started? It's possible you may have thrown a rod. That would be a tapping that would be more noticeable at higher rpm. A good service department can easily diagnose this with a listening tool that is kind of like a doctor's stethoscope. Hopefully that is not the issue, as the usual course of action is either to completely rebuild or replace the engine

Did you check the  oil recently? The 3.5 was notorious for burning oil. It's one of the many reasons they scrapped it for the 3.6. If you haven't checked the oil in a month I strongly urge you to do so again!

Or I could drill a hole big enough to fit a lightning cable or micro usb through and have a much smaller hole. Yes I saw that the tray and lid slide back...thought you were referring to notches for the cables. I read that wrong. The USB port charges my iPhone 6 just fine.

I have done a thorough check and recheck, and don't see any notches. I do have the rubber stoppers and for now the cables are coming out from the gap in the lid, but what I want is a clean look....I guess I am probably going to have to drill a hole in the bottom or side of the console (inside) to achieve this :/

Hey guys,
I tried searching the forums but came up with nil on this subject. I'm loving my journey, but am disappointed and a little confused about routing power cables out of the center console. In my 07 Chrysler 300 there was a notch on the passenger side to easily and safely route cables out of the center console. Why does a 2016 Chrysler vehicle not have something this simple? Anyway I would like to hear and see how you all have routed your power cables in your DJ.
Thanks

Hey guys,
I'm a photographer from Maryland and I just traded in my 2007 Chrysler 300 Touring on a 2016 Dodge Journey RT AWD. I have an obscure electrical question that I will be posting in the appropriate forum here in a few minutes, so if you're knowledgeable maybe you could help answer it.
Thanks,
CameraGuy
P.S.: I attached a couple photos if my new ride for those that would like to see it

Thanks for braving the cold to answer my question!!

Hey guys,
I'm a photographer from Maryland and I just traded in my 2007 Chrysler 300 Touring on a 2016 Dodge Journey RT AWD. I have an obscure electrical question that I will be posting in the appropriate forum here in a few minutes, so if you're knowledgeable maybe you could help answer it.
Thanks,
CameraGuy
P.S.: I attached a couple photos if my new ride for those that would like to see it

Hey guys,
I'm a photographer from Maryland and I just traded in my 2007 Chrysler 300 Touring on a 2016 Dodge Journey RT AWD. I have an obscure electrical question that I will be posting in the appropriate forum here in a few minutes, so if you're knowledgeable maybe you could help answer it.
Thanks,
CameraGuy
P.S.: I attached a couple photos if my new ride for those that would like to see it