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Rotor/Pad recommendations


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agreed that labor is a lot of money, but I have not done brake jobs since my 20s and I can't be bothered any more. I'd rather have my mechanic do it. He's forgotten more about cars than I'll ever know. But good on you if you're doing your own. Oil changes and other simple fixes are about the extent of my tinkering these days.

anyway, initial impression is very good. They told me to go easy today while they seat. I drove slowly just now when I picked the car up and took it to get a mid-day coffee. They sure do look nice. The rotors have an expensive look to them, because the edges are painted black, and the dimples and slots shot up nicely through the big black 19" wheels. The green on the pads looks kind of cool too. They probably won't stay that way for long, but for now they look impressive.

I hope this is the end of warping brakes. My mechanic seems to think it will be.

So I know a lot of you will spit coffee out your nose at the price of this 4 axle brake job, but it was $710 for the parts, and $350 for labor. Most expensive brake job I've ever paid for. But that shows how much I like this car. Because prior to this Journey, any car I owned that put me in the position of paying over $1,000 for brakes would have been traded in.

Ouch. $350 for one hour of work. Brakes are not that hard to do. Its a simple remove & replace procedure with a few extra steps to clean mating surfaces and lubricate moving parts. The only trick is getting the rear caliper pistons to retract. You need a special tool that costs about $20 at Harbor Freight. I can do a 4 wheel brake job in my driveway with a floor jack, one wheel at a time, in about an hour. In a shop with a hoist, I bet he took less.

Anyway, as long as you are happy with the result, thats all that matters. At least you don't have to worry about them anymore.

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I was looking at the Power stop brake package K4015, how do we know which size rotors we have? Short of measuring them of course. Dif models have dif sizes? Or does the Fwd 4cyl model have the smaller ones? If so they don't list a kit for the bigger sized ones.

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I was looking at the Power stop brake package K4015, how do we know which size rotors we have? Short of measuring them of course. Dif models have dif sizes? Or does the Fwd 4cyl model have the smaller ones? If so they don't list a kit for the bigger sized ones.

According to Brake Performance.com,

Crew and R/T have larger brake rotors. 12.99" front, 12.91" rear.

All other models: 11.89" front, 12.01" rear.

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why not buy wagner rotors they are warrented for life against warping and around $52. for the fronts from advance auto and if you go to retailmenot.com and get coupon code for $40 off for any purchase over $110 just order from advance auto and they will ship them free or if in stock go down and pick them up at the store. they also have the thermoquite brake pads right now with a rebate of $15 per set pads are about $62. make 2 different orders and you would get 20 +40 off plus the rebate of $15. and if you buy from advance auto when the thermoquites wear out they will replace them one time for free most other auto part stores dont give thermos warrenty on their pads.so for about $175. minus $75 discounts and rebate new rotors and pads for about$100.00... cant beat that ANY WHERE....

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Wagner, raybestos, brakebest, all good aftermarket parets, imo. As long as you're not putting OEM (dealer) parts on, they will last. 2late4u is corrrect, I got a lifetime warranty on my pads, you wont get that with dealer parts. Much cheaper than the EBC stuff and just as good, imo.

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I have new 20" wheels & tires coming and I thought the Cr Dr & slotted rotors would look sweet with them, plus help a lil more with slowing down the fat asses. When you say prone to cracking are we talking auto crossing or just everyday use? I've had them on several vehicles in the past without issues.

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Well, what I have read is they can crack, I mean, you got holes drilled all over the surface. The downside of using drilled rotors is that all of those holes tend to weaken the rotors -- just like punching holes in the wall of a house would weaken the wall. After repeated stressful driving, the rotors can even crack. Dimpled is ok, slotted eats pads. Yes, autocrossers run them, but they also change them after every race. I'd be concerned about the longevity of cross drilled compared to solid rotors. Personally, I'm not out road racing, so I have no need for the cost of high performance brake parts. By all means, do what you want though.

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From what I've read from other sites is to stay away from the cheap Chinese made cross drilled rotors they have advertised throughout ebay. If your dropping big coin for reputable brand name cross drilled rotors they should be fine, not worth the cost but fine to use. Note, you will be unable to resurface cross-drilled rotors if the warp.....not that I would even bother resurfacing my daily driver rotors if they were to warp too but the only difference is it will hurt your wallet more than mine.

Edited by Journey_SeXT
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I wouldn't worry about a reputable brake rotor cracking. That being said, I would still go with dimpled and slotted. Also, having tried several different manufacturers and styles of brakes I can say for a fact that the dimpled and slotted rotors do provide better braking. Whether or not it is worth you hard earned dollar is up to you. IMO any improvement to how quickly you can stop a vehicle is nice to have...

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^^agreed, the dimples are probably wiser than full drilling.

Lobitz - no I have not noticed any type of smell.

Frogbox - yep, as stated, I've done brakes in the past, I'm fully aware of what's involved. I have neither the time nor desire anymore. I agree that that was a large labor charge.

I have a few hundred miles on the brakes now... I still like how they feel. Under hard braking I can feel and hear the dimples a little.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Good brand cross-drilled brakes are fine. Will keep the brakes cooler and will help with water displacement, better all year stopping. Cheap Chinese copies and bargain brands maybe more prone to failure. Wouldnt think twice about fitting them if I found a good set. Plus they look better if you're fitting bigger rims. If any one can put me in direction of a good importer to Australia, it would be much appreciated as I have started to get a shudder during light braking! Thanks.

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I guess I have been lurking on this forum for so long that I didn't remember that I hadn't joined, so did now, so I could post.

This was my first encounter with these brake pistons that have to be screwed back in. (The C-clamp got tight, but wasn't going anywhere - I found out about the special tool from this thread.) What are the advantages of that supposed to be? First I've ever seen that, or even heard of it. (Most of our vehicles are old, I guess.)

I also noticed that some have said that the newer Journeys have larger disks (our is the first year model) - has anyone tried to upgrade to the later model brake assembly on an 09?

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This was my first encounter with these brake pistons that have to be screwed back in. (The C-clamp got tight, but wasn't going anywhere - I found out about the special tool from this thread.) What are the advantages of that supposed to be? First I've ever seen that, or even heard of it. (Most of our vehicles are old, I guess.)

C-clamps are only used on the front calipers. The rear calipers you must use a special tool to retract the piston as the parking brake self adjuster mechanism is attached to the piston....rotating the piston back (clockwise) is the only acceptable method without damaging the caliper. Special tool 8807 is what they call for in the service manual but a pair of needle nose pliers or the multiple sided dice can do the same job except with a lot more effort.

Edited by Journey_SeXT
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Yes, search for big brake upgrade. It has been done.

Edit: http://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/4974-successful-big-brake-upgrade-on-2011-crew/

Thanks for that link. I read through the whole thread, and it sounds very interesting. Just as I was starting to wonder if the larger systems would fit inside the 16" wheels, the question was answered, that you have to have at least 17"ers. Our Journey is the 4 banger, and maybe it's because of the lower weight, or just my driving style, but I've not noticed what I would consider poor braking. But then my first car was a 62 Chrysler Newport, and it DID have poor brakes. (Of course it was also 15 years old when I got it...)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I've got 9000 miles or so on the rear pads/rotors, and 4500 or so on the front pads/rotors. Stopping power and performance seems excellent - no shudder or vibration yet. When the weather turns warm, I plan to rotate my tires - I will check the pad wear at that point - I'm not really sure on that part of it.

Can you give another update on the Callahan brakes? I'm due for brakes at 60k miles, and was thinking of getting this Callahan kit on amazon for $150 shipped. Seems like too good of a deal to be true! Is this the same kit you had? Callahan rotors and pads? Any problems with them in the last 6 months you've had them? Thanks man!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1SNKB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1JWY71SHQ82FV&coliid=I3KY2HBU7K363H

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  • 2 weeks later...

update; About 4,000 miles on EBC dimpled and slotted rotors with Green Stuff pads. Still pleased. As noted before, there is a slight sound/sensation when braking hard, but they have not warped yet, and that's what matters to me the most. Also as noted, they look great behind the Black Top Edition wheels.

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