Jump to content

FROGBOX

Journey Member
  • Posts

    153
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by FROGBOX

  1. The pictures were hosted by fototime and they had a catastrophic event a few months ago. All photos were lost and they basically ceased operating. I lost over 1000 pictures. I had hundreds of how to posts like this one as a member of tdiclub. It will be a monumental task to try to find all the pictures in my backed up drives, but I will see what I can do.
  2. Great info sir. Thank you for sharing the list. One question I have is about the screen. Car-part lists 2 possible 8.4" screens. One with nav and one without. Does it really matter which screen I get? the Nav info is in the head unit, so not sure why the screen matters. It just displays the info sent to it from the head unit, no? Is there really a difference? With nav part number = 5064993AG W/o nav part number = 5064976AH
  3. Ouch. You paid dealership prices for the parts? If you haven't installed the parts yet, and the dealership will take the calipers & brackets back, there are much cheaper options. First option is used calipers & brackets. Go to www.car-part.com Coreys Auto wrecker in London has a set of front calipers & brackets for $60 per side. So for $120 instead of $435, you are halfway there. Then go to www.rockauto.com to order the pads & rotors. The same ones you bought (Centric) are $70 each rotor & $40 for the pads. Shipping is quite expensive, but still cheaper than buying local. The dust sheilds & pin kit you might as well keep as they are not that expensive. The second option is all new/rebuilt parts from Rock Auto. Centric calipers are $127 each (which includes a $82 core charge) and they include the brackets. So $127 per side instead of $219 from the dealer.
  4. My apologies and thanks for letting us know. I had so many screens open from different parts web sites I must have copied the wrong one. The original post has been edited with the correct part numbers. Thanks again. One note, the BRE part number I found is 68159579AC, which is different from yours???
  5. Your calculations are a bit off. I believe the OEM wheels have a offset of 37, so there is a 12mm difference. BUT, the stock wheels are also only 7" wide and the ones you are planning on buying are 8", so you have to add 1/2" (~12mm) on top of the offset. So in reality, those rims will sit almost 1" further out than the stock wheels. In my opinion, the stock wheels are tucked too much into the wheel arches to begin with. The 25 offset would make the wheels more flush to the body and will look much nicer.
  6. The parts for the rear upgrade is listed in post #30 in this thread. However, I do not suggest spending the $$$ on upgrading the rears to new parts. If you can't find the parts used, wait till you can. There will be more 2013's & 14's in the wrecking yards in the next few years. You can get everything from a wrecked Journey for around $150 and do the swap later.
  7. My rear pads were worn down almost to the metal, so I couldn't wait to get the larger rears. I had to go aftermarket. I went with a Powerstop Kit. Drilled & slotted rotors & ceramic pads. They are holding up fine.
  8. My advice is to try to find some of the parts used from a wreckers. I have seen the calipers & brackets sell for between $35 - $75 per side. Then, all you need is a set of new rotors & pads and you're golden. If you have an address to have them shipped to in the States, get the parts from Rock Auto. Best prices anywhere on the net. Heavy Duty front rotors - Raybestos part number 780964 - $60 each Professional Grade front pads - Raybestos part number PGD1589C - $55 Total cost for the parts will be between $300-$350 depending on how cheap you can get the calipers.
  9. Its not necessarily a poor design, it just needs maintenance. There are LOTS of cars with the exact same design. The stainless steel shims are corrosion resistant. However, the steel bracket is not. What happens is the steel under the shim traps water (especially salt water in the north) and causes the bracket to rust under the shim. The rust pushes up on the shim and acts like a wedge, putting pressure on the pad, so it is no longer able to float. Simple maintenance can prevent it from happening. Simply remove the caliper, remove the shims, clean the surface under the shim and apply a bit of grease to keep out the water & prevent the rust. Then reassemble. It takes 10 min per side and can be done when rotating the tires. I do mine when I swap between summer & winter wheels.
  10. You are correct in that the fronts do most of the work. When a vehicle brakes, the weight transfers to the front so it has to brake more than the rears. This is done by a proportioning valve in the brake system. However, there are more factors to why he rears can wear out faster. The first is pad size. The rears are much smaller, so there is less material and that makes it easier to wear faster. Also, as mentioned above, the compound can be softer, also causing it to wear faster. Finally, the design of the carrier that holds the pads is different between the front & rear and I have seen it on many makes & models where the shims that hold the pads can cause the pads to get stuck so they don't float. This causes the pads to constantly drag against the rotor since the pads are not releasing fully and they can wear out faster due to that. It is not a lot of pressure, but over thousands of miles, just the slightest bit of drag will still wear a pad. That happened to my journey. I had to replace the rear brakes at 40,000 km (26,000 miles) as they were down to the metal backing. When I tried to take the pads off, I had to pry them off with a pry bar. They should just fall out. Proper lubrication of the brakes should prevent that from happening, so I do that every time I rotate my wheels.
  11. When cars sit for any length of time, the rotors rust. They are bare metal and with no protection, rust very quicky. My rotors will be rusty after only a day or two in heavy rain. Since your Journey may have sat for a long time in the dealer lot, the area under the brake pad may be worse as water gets trapped and if the rust is bad enough, the rotor can get pitted in that spot. So each time that section of the rotor passes under the pad, the pad grabs it a bit more since it is not as smooth. This constant grabbing in one spot can feel like a severe shudder, similar to warped rotors. Eventually, the spot will wear down and be the same as the rest of the rotor. But since you replaced them already, then just motor on.
  12. Probably just air. They want $3 per wheel for nitrogen
  13. Which rims are you having them put on? I thought you were getting new ones under warranty? I guess I got lucky with my local CT. They had 4 in stock and I was in & out in 45 min. urprised they can't get them quicker than 7-15 days though. If its in a warehouse, they should be able to get them within 24 hours. Glad you found a set. Please let us know what you think when you have tried them.
  14. Similar looking wheel can be found here for a very reasonable price: http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=F1012735S&wheelMake=Sport+Edition&wheelModel=F10&wheelFinish=Silver+Painted&showRear=no&autoMake=Dodge&autoModel=Journey&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=Crew&filterFinish=All&filterSize=All&filterBrand=All&filterSpecial=false&filterNew=All&filterWeight=All&sort=Brand Only issue is they are 18". But that means tires will be cheaper too.
  15. You have to read the fine print. The $65 Continental rebate excludes TrueContact tires purchased at Canadian Tire: http://www.continentaltirepromotions.ca/ Instead of the rebate, Continental has a deal with Can Tire to cover the the cost of the install & balance. When you buy tires at CT, the price includes install, but they charge you $15 per wheel to balance. So with the free install & balance coupon, you are saving $60. But since it comes off the bill before taxes are charged, you are actually saving $60 + HST = $67.80. So slightly better than the $65 mail in rebate. Plus, it is an instant savings, so no need to wait 4-6 weeks for them to mail it to you.
  16. I'll try to keep the Journey under 200kph then . In case anyone else is interested, the deal is still on. Most Can Tire sales go from Friday to Thursday. But I just checked the website and the Conti's are still buy 3 get one free, so should be good till at least next Thursday. The free install & balance coupon is good till June 27.
  17. You have a 2012, so there are 2 possible sizes of brakes on your Journey as that was the year they switched half way through the production cycle. The early 2012 Journeys came with 302mm front discs and 305mm rear discs. The later 2012's came with 330mm front discs and 328mm rear discs. before we can steer you in the right direction, we need to know which ones your Journey has.
  18. Yep. WAY overpriced stock wheels. Some did actually come in that color, so they could be original. Those wheels came in 3 color options. Silver, satin carbon & gloss black. It costs about $50 each to powder coat a wheel, so if you really like the color, get a set of the more common silver ones and have them powder coated. Wheel options on dodge website: http://www.dodge.com/en/journey/exterior/ EDIT: I read through the whole auction listing and they are indeed refinished. But still, $2000 for wheels & tires is steep.
  19. I don't think they will stick out. The OEM wheels already have a good tuck, so if anything, these wheels will make it more flush with the body, but shouldn't stick out at all. The offset is 42, so very close to the stock offset of 40. That means the extra 1.5" width will be evenly distributed in either side of the center line. So the rim will stick in 3/4" and stick out 3/4". This MAY cause rubbing on the inside depending on which tires you go with.
  20. Give these guys a call. According to www.car-part.com, they have 4 rims for $150 each. Thats $600 + shipping. You may even be able to negotiate the price down if you are buying all 4, or perhaps ask for free shipping if you buy all 4??? Kosiski Auto Parts on Omaha, NB. http://www.kosiski.com/
  21. Yeah, prices fluctuate up & down and rebates come & go. You just have to watch & pull the trigger when you find a good combo. My preference would be to go with a 245/50-19 tire, but I just had some 235/55-19's installed as they were on for a good price. I'll have to stop looking now so I don't get upset when I find a better deal .
  22. Just got em installed. $804.20 out the door. Took a very short trip on the highway to check for road noise. None to speak of. Time will tell how good these tires are, but for the price, I am very happy. I also compared my speedo to the GPS and it was off by 1kph (speedo read 100, GPS read 101). I also like the fact I can get the wheels rotated every 10k for free and free flat repairs at any Can Tire in the country.
  23. No issues with clearance with a 245 tire. The only issue is its not a common size, so less choices to go with if you prefer one brand over another. But that size is becoming more available now, so you can find some decent deals on brands that are available. For example, Firestone Firehawk Oval are less than $500 after mail in rebate at Tire rack right now. That is a smoking deal if you don't mind FS tires. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&tireModel=Firehawk+Wide+Oval+AS+%28W-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=45WR9FHWASXLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
  24. Thanks for the info. $917 out the door? He was wrong. The coupon for free install & balance should mean you are only paying for the tires themselves. $172.50 x 4 = $690 + $21.72 Enviro fee + HST = $804.19 out the door. Perhaps he was not aware of the Continental promotion of free install & balance and threw that on top of the tires. He may have also added the optional $9 lifetime warranty fee to each tire to get that total so high. The free install & balance promotion is exclusive to Continental and is almost the same value as an $80 rebate that other brands offer.
  25. No, you cannot mix sizes in a 3-1 ratio. You can in a 2 x 2 configuration like the SRT, but they have wider tires in the rear and don't rotate them front to back. As far as I know, If they are stock Journey wheels, they should all be 19 x 7. I am not aware of an OEM wheel that was 7.5" wide. If the ad says its 7.5, I would think it might be a misprint??? These are the 3 OEM 19" wheels and they are all 19 x 7: Which style are you looking for? Try Craigslist. I bet you can find a complete set for way less than E-bay. If you don't mind a drive, here is a set of 6 spoke chrome wheels for $200 in Poughkeepsie: http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/pts/4433831949.html There are also a bunch of the 5 spoke style on www.car-part.com for around the $100 each mark. Search using the year 2010 as a later year won't bring up the 5 spoke style.
×
×
  • Create New...