SylvainB

Did you remove the entire knuckle !? I need to replace both ball joint and I don't want to if not needed since the only place to put the press is in the knuckle opening maybe the axle is in the way !? Since you said you didn't remove the speed sensor .....

Be aware that sometime it might be the knuckle bushings that are worned out and not the one from the control arms itself. When I jacked up my car I could see the wheel popping in when leaving the ground that is a sign of loose knuckle bushing but the Wheel won't have any play at all. I had to replace all 6 knuckle bushings, 3 from each side. You can do it yourself if you have a good press and a lot of different sleeves size and lot of times.

Did you fix it !? And how did you replace the heater core !? Mine has also a heat issue on passenger's side, door seems to move fine. If I turn off the climat wait like 1 minute turn it back on I got hot heat on passenger's side then gradually becoming less warm has the fan blows into the heater core. What helped me is changing my thermostat. Mine was opening way too soon like at 79C instead of 95C, air is hotter now but still not as warm as driver side. I'm planning to replace the heater core by cutting the pipe near the brake pedals but not sure if it applies on journey 2011, all I saw is a 2010.

When I replaced my struts on my dodge journery 2011 I used KYB strut. I didn't like the ride either before, was way too soft for me but struts were worned out so it didn't help (Original suspension). It was so stiff after that every other parts began to fall apart lol. I'm rebuilding the front. There'is an inner tie rod that has become loose and lower control arm needs replacement (talking about soft bushings)

I'll have it checked since you guys don't have that knocking sound. I ask him to check it when he replaced the right ball joint but I guess he forgot. My car still have a warranty on it, it does not cover all parts but lots of them. I want to keep it for at least 3 years if possible .... lol

Thank you, my dodge is on my profile, mine is a 2011 with 146000km on it. I know they're a lot of parts still to be replaced that can cause that kind of knocking. I replaced all the rear end, well mostly now I'm attacking the front end. I can still feel it "foat" when the shock is not absorbing. When I replaced the "Shocks" I only replaced the strut and not the strut mout like I did in th rear fault of money, was going for a long trip which cost a lot of money so was trying to a have a peace mind since my truck wasn't quite ready to tow 2000lbs in the shape it was before. I still managed to get back but broke the flexplate.

Does yours making a knocking sound when you turn left ro right when idling !? It is under warranty but not at a dodge dealer but I need to know before making an appointment if it's really a problem or it is normal.

Hello, As the title mentionned, I want to know if your DJs are doing a "knocking" sound when idling and rocking the steering Wheel left to right. Mine is knocking and want to know if it's normal or not. Also can be releated but when doing sharp turn you can hear slight knocking sound from left side. What has been replaced yet : Front Shock Strut Ball Joint Sway bar Link Both sides. Tie rods are 2 years old. This summer was planning on replacing lower control arms but wondering if I'm having bad CV Axles

On my dodge Journey 2011 the negative battery needs a 15mm socket but a 15mm universal socket didn't work. I'm facing the same issue, Bluetooth is not working anymore, when I press the button on the steering Wheel it does Nothing, press the "phone" icon on the uconnect 8.4 doesn't do anything either and now I can't set Bluetooth in the music player since it is not even an option anymore .... Guess my module is shot

Mine too during winter when it's Fuc"*&?68 cold outside there is a whining like it's going to throw a piston out but after 10 seconds (warming up) everything comes back to normal, DJ makes a lot of funny noise when starting up ... you'll get use to it lol I did see your last post ... ok "Brutal" may be not normal .... I'll check pulley .... I had all the pulley failed on me causing the belt to slip or it was your power steering pump ... but trust me it does whine during winter at -20 to -30, it can also throw codes ... it doesn't really like that mine last winter decided that it was bucking throw the "ETC" light, I turn it off, then on, was like nothing happened

I know mine cracked too and was looking for replacement .... damn so expensive and no the housing will fit in your Journey but it's not the same plug/wiring so you won't be able to get the light working you may have to replace the plug by cutting the original and tapping to the wire see if it works .... but it's risky, I won't do that, save money and buy a LED replacement.

It's probably just a sensor, traction control needs the ABS sensor to fonction properly so if one of your ABS sensor is bad that's why you have both lights ON. As all said, you need an OBD II reader to know which one failed or what is the cause for the lights to be on. With the codes it will be easier to know what to do, changing ABS sensor is pretty easy if that's your problem and the sensor itself is not expensive. But again you need to at least get someone to the read the codes. I wouldn't go the the dealer just for reading codes but that's just me .... I bought on eBay and OBD II reader that plug's in a computer (replicate one of the old version) for 5 bucks, it's not genuine but it's work as intended on the dodge Journey mine is a 2011. Be prepared cause DJ may cost you some money to own. It's a nice car but you need to do some yourself.

Damn I used the T connector from CURT ..... so easy to get it working ..... don't have to mess up with reflashing PCM !? WTF

If you have a borescope camera, just put it Inside the vent to see what's going on, that's what I did to see if all doors were moving properly. If you don't have one ..... you can buy one cheap on amazon it's always useful around the house loll.

Thank You Naval, I'll soon be redoing this and adding 4 pins for the trailer light. I though all the bolts were the same size ..... maybe that's what I did wrong or I'll just buy 4 longer screws. I do have pentrating oïl and that's what I did, using a pry bar with leverage but on YouTube it seems so easy with some sort of clamps. Anyway I'll rent a lift to do it this time. Now I'm about to change all 6 knuckle bushings and the 2 rear shocks so I'll be a bit busy. Bushings is not fun to do !!, I removed the knuckle twice and these fuckers won't move, I'll have to burn them off, man was hoping not to play with fire. If it can stop raining ......

When you change a blend door actuator, I think you need to have it recalibrated by the dealer. You need a scan to do this.

Because I don't have a warranty with the dealer, it's a "company" offering warranty when buying used car but I have to go an affiliated shop. It's a pain to get the part repaired because they need proof like pictures of the defective part so more then often I take an apointment to diagnotic the problem then they claim the part then I take another apointment when they receive it to get it repaired. It's cost me 2500k when I bought my Journey. I don't regret it ..... but the shop near me don't want to do this job, too time consuming. Need to call another shop who's willing to do it. That's when I started to do mechanic on the Journey, I bought the Journey in a few times for weird stalling issues only in reverse in the winter. No one could replicate the problem and it was only during winter and it was no throwing codes. So I fixed it myself I pourred in a "Lucas Transmission fix" and I think that did the trick. I also replaced 2 upper Oxygen Sensors and all six spark plugs. This winter I did not have any issue with my Journey except once, lighting bolt icon flashing with traction control off. I checked for codes, no codes.Probably a Throttle body glitch. Turned off the car, started up and didn't reappear. I think somthing is wrong with my transmission because it was also not shifting pass third gear when really cold outside. This winter no problem at all with the Lucas thing in it. But again shop won't look at it if they don't have a code or they can't replicate the problem. It's like chasing a ghost. So I bought tools and started doing things on my own when I know they won't fix it or I will be wasting my time. I aslo started doing my own oil change and I bough set of "rims" with winter tires to do the swap myself since shops are overtightening bolts and caused me vibrations on highway.

Ya he probably just changed his brakes what else can we say, he knows the rotors are "warped" :P and that YEAH iit s normal ...... just need to live with it and be prepared to replace rotors more often than other cars or just buy a new car. I decided to live with it and practice my mecanic on this car :D

Hey, I don't know you said you have a single zone HVAC and blowing cold air only on passenger's side !? How can that be possible if on single zone ..... usually this happen on dual zone since the heater core is plugged on the passenger's side or the blend door is stuck on passenger's side. First I would check the blend door motor see if it is moving. It is located behind the glove box. I still don't figured it out how to reach the blend door itselft to see if it was moving properly without drilling a hole in the HVAC. I saw a door moving from the front vent when I set air to face and moving from low to high there is a door shutting and opening on the right side but what I found weird is the same door didn't move on the left side it was wide open and the temperature still changed from the vent. So that is why I think this is not the blend door. I went through the feet vent and I reached the heater core, blend door from the motor seems to be below right next to the blowing fan. So the only way to reach the blend door is from the vent that brings outdoor air or though the fan itself but camera doesn't fit through the fan. Or you drill a hole in the HVAC It's pretty mixed for the result but people here tried to backflush their heater core and didn't improve so they replaced it and heat came back. Before proceeding be sure it's not a stuck blend door. Bring to the dealer and have a diagnostic. I had three results from three mecanics shop. One was the thermostat ....... yeah right, the other one told me a door wasn't moving properly and the other one told me my heater core was plugged. So I'm pretty screwed. I don't have heat on the passenger's side for the third winter now lol. My heater core is under warranty but my main garage won't do it since they have to tear the dash appart and it's too big for them. And I need my car for carrying kids and wife. Good luck with yours and please post result here if you fixed it. I will do the same. I will attempt another backflush this summer kep you posted or if I found a way to reach the blend door to see if it is moving.

I agree Journey's brakes from 2009 to early 2012 suck, they eat pads like hot butter. But please stop using the term "warped". A warped rotor is when the rotor exceeded maximal operating temperature and did not come back to orignal form. Usually vibration when braking is due to an unbalanced rotor caused by uneven wear of the rotor surface. It is called thickness variation. To prevent that when you change rotors perform brake pads bed-in. It is usually written on the manufacturer website and be sure that your calipers are functionning properly and that the pads are moving freely. I've learn from my mistakes ..... LOL. Oh and yeah original rotor aren't good I went with the drilled one from PowerStop but didn't perfrom brake pads bed-in and had to replace front rotors again 6 months later. I went with wagner rotors and wagners pads since september and still good to go. Will see if it will be a good replacement if they aren't vibrating till the summer. PowerStop begin vibrating only 3 months and half on the highway after installation but I had right pad stuck in the shoe so I had dragging and before I found out I think damage was already done to the rotor. So might not be the brand itself. So the problem with the journey's are pads and caliper's design. I'll be performing brake cleaning after winter. Never had to do brake maintenance that often to prelong their life.

Hey I installed this hitch too last summer to carry bikes. I'm about to redo the job because i'm planning to tow around 2000lbs with it and I didn't have a torque wrench. How did you remove the muffler rubber !? I had a lot of difficulties getting them out off the hook. Also did you have any issues with the length of the screws !? I don't know why but some are not getting out enough from the frame to put the nut and torque them properly ! Thank you. Sylvain

Nope here's the answer from rockauto : Thank you for your message. The core that is returned must match the item that is purchased so if you were to 'upgrade' the parts to newer/larger versions, we could not refund the core charges on them. That would be a little too expensive for me if they do not refund the core charges. I can't find used caliper here ....

The site is still working, I just used it this week to get my build sheet. I do have the oïl engine cooler et trailer sway control. Just to clarify think about the towing capacity that changed from 2010 to 2011. I just spoke with dodge and what they told me is they changed the way they wrote it. The dodge Journey can tow 3500lbs but that is including passangers and luggages, so it is 3500lbs total that is why they rated it at 2500lbs. That makes sens because you can't tow 3500lbs with the Journey and sit 7 passengers Inside with luggages. You have to be reasonable and think, which sometimes people don't do.

Mine is a 2011 Crew and is doing the same thing when I come to a complete stop or red light and I let off the brakes without giving gas the car will shudder/bounce weird feeling ...... not sure this apply to me but I will have it check. As soon as I enter the "first gear it will do it. If I switch to manual and set to second gear wont have this issue. Still on warranty so ..... got a lot fixed on that Journey on warranty .... poor them.

Hey Guys, The little button on the trunk that is supposed to lock/unlock the doors stopped working. I had a message in the dash once to check keyless entry system. The passive entry has been working randomly until it dies completely. I want to fix it since I kinda use it a lot. Here's my question : I know there's a RF module Under the rear bumper, if you guys can test Something for me that could be nice. If you let the FOBKEY Inside the trunk and lock the doors (have a spare key before doing it) will the doors unlock themselves !? I know that if you leave the key in the cabin or second row the doors will unlock I tested it but for me it doesn't work in the trunk near the door. The doors will stay locked with the key Inside (Yeah i have a spare key to unlock the doors) I'm trying to figure out if it's a RF module issue or cabling issue ! Thanks !