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2012 journey electrical problem FIXED


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Ok so I’ve been working on my step daughters journey, it started out that she took it to 2 shops, they replaced the battery, then the alternator. After several hundred dollars, the car still had the same issues, the car would act like a dead battery, hook up a jump pack it would start, only to die when the pack was disconnected. I got the car from her and reading several forums on line I found that this issue comes up a few times. So after doing a ton of testing with a multimeter, I found that it PASSED every test! So I started doing some old fashion wire tracing, and come to find out the cause of the whole problem was the power cable from the battery to the fuse block where the factory terminal connected to the cable was damaged inside the jacket! It wasn’t easy to spot because the factory connection has some sort of sealant on it (probably to prevent moisture from getting inside) so I replaced the cable with a new off the shelf universal one from Napa, and ta-da problem solved! 

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thanks for the info, it sure might come in helpful for posters who are having problems,,my daughter was having problems with her older caravan and the problem ended up being a wire shorting out in the connector making her coil short out and go bad,was a hard thing to trace down as well     congratulation on solving your problem

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  • 3 years later...

2012 Dodge Journey - New battery, new alternator after 12 years of no trouble. Then started having have charging problems. Eventually car died while driving. The Battery current sensor or IBS as Dodge calls it was faulty. It is attached to the negative battery terminal. The battery is located in the most stupid place for an owner to change themself (behind right front fender.) It is possible to damage this sensor when changing the battery. Due to this location it is also susceptible to corrosion. Consider changing this sensor when changing the battery for safety reasons. Since there is no voltage meter on this vehicle, no idea if being fully charged! If this post helps one person avoid these headaches it will make my day!

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You dont need a battery to drive a vehicle, you only need it to power the starter 

 

Once its running, the alternator provides all the power needed to run the engine...i would have my alternator tested 

 

(But the alternator does need the wiring to complete the loop, so check all your connections aswell)

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3 hours ago, diymirage said:

You dont need a battery to drive a vehicle, you only need it to power the starter 

 

Once its running, the alternator provides all the power needed to run the engine...i would have my alternator tested 

 

(But the alternator does need the wiring to complete the loop, so check all your connections aswell)

True but most cars won't run unless you have a battery connected even though the alternator is providing enough voltage 

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2 hours ago, Locosiete said:

True but most cars won't run unless you have a battery connected even though the alternator is providing enough voltage 

Hence the disclaimer about completing the loop 

 

I betcha you could connect the ground and hot from the battery together and run it without the battery (but i aint trying it on mine) 

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1 minute ago, diymirage said:

Hence the disclaimer about completing the loop 

 

I betcha you could connect the ground and hot from the battery together and run it without the battery (but i aint trying it on mine) 

I'm not an expert but pretty sure that would not end well for your electrical system if you tried that

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  • 4 weeks later...
9 hours ago, Sooner said:

2012 Journey died again! I guess I will try the solution that TIG found (change the power cable from the battery to the fuse block?

I recall a thread awhile ago that was talking about cleaning the ground and upgrading them. Worth checking and cleaning connections

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2016, 3.6L 135k

 

When, I got my DJ. I knew it would have electrical issues. Because of the 4 gauge battery and electrical cables. 

 

The only other engine to chassis ground. Being the very small gauge wire on the passenger mount. 

 

With all it's electronic modules (12-14) it needs plenty of good grounds.

 

Bad grounds cause all kinds of strange problems.

 

I went with more grounds the merrier for my DJ.

 

At a minimum if people would add a 2 gauge cable. Negative battery stud on strut tower to engine block stud. 

 

4 gauge cable from the engine passenger mount to the strut tower studs. 

 

They would be good to go . Cost wise pretty cheap to do, for the added reliability.

 

So, I posted these threads-

 

https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18210-electrical-system-fyi-battery/

 

https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18374-electrical-system-fyi-ground-system/

 

https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/18296-charging-system-101-with-diagrams/

 

 

I believe in building a good solid electrical foundation. Easiest upgrade to do yourself.

 

Which, would eliminate some problems. 

Then narrow it down to troubleshooting the specific load ( module, light etc.)

 

 Connections and the very small wires throughout the vehicle . 

 

It's too easy to get focused on a part, and miss it being something simple. 

 

Causing the actual problem. 

 

Well, to be honest cut down on repeat forum posts! 

 

Dean

Edited by Dean H
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  • 5 months later...
2 hours ago, skulnick04 said:

I did everything Dean posted on. Replaced the battery sensor and upgraded all the grounds. 

 

I still randomly get "battery saver mode". I have tried everything. 

Have you checked with a multi meter or any gauge what your voltage is. Could be a bad alternator 

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Key off is 12.5v, running is 13.7-13.9.

 

I have a battery/alt tester. Not just a multimeter. 

 

I believe I have some corrosion somewhere or moisture is maybe causing an issue. 

 

Edit: I replaced the batt sensor with an OEM about 6 weeks ago. Just yesterday the message came back. 

 

Was able to reset the message with five ignition presses and then starting it. Didn't leave it running long so, it may come back again after a drive I'll take soon. 

Edited by skulnick04
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8 hours ago, Dean H said:

One thing to be aware of is, that the battery sensor is fully seated on the terminal.

 

With the very short 2 wire harness and battery hold down. Getting in the way.

 

Just need to go through and check all the connections. Clean and tighten 

Also, don't forget to check the condition of the pigtail connector to the Battery Sensor. Small wires and subject to the same corrosion effetcts as the battery terminals themselves.

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8 hours ago, Dean H said:

One thing to be aware of is, that the battery sensor is fully seated on the terminal.

 

With the very short 2 wire harness and battery hold down. Getting in the way.

 

Just need to go through and check all the connections. Clean and tighten 

I was gonna say check and clean the connection at the connector or terminals. Over the years I've had little gremlins pop up only to find a small amount of corrosion at the plug creating some resistance. Not enough to cause the car to not run but enough to give me hours of headaches chasing wires and connections.

On my 13 I was getting a random misfire on #1 plug whenever I ran the system full tilt, mine stereo is a smidgen upgraded lol, checked and clean the grounds on the strut tower and hasn't happened since 

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Yes I cleaned every single connection with sandpaper, etc and used dielectric grease. The sensor is fully seated. I'm telling you I did everything short of replacing the battery cables themselves. Which I plan on doing. I ordered some 2ga wires and copper lugs. 

 

One thing I'm wondering is if the little harness plug on the alternator is getting water in it? I can't figure out how to get the plug off. 

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