Shawn855 Posted February 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 Update: So I threw in the new battery on Tuesday evening. Monitored the voltage since then and there's still a continuous drain. So this morning at 7:30am I pulled the 5 most problematic fuses that are known to have caused drains in the dodge journey: the abs valve fuse, the HVAC fuses (front and back), the radio fuse, and the Bluetooth fuse. I got home at 4:30pm, and checked the voltage and the drain stopped. So for now I put all of the fuses back in, except for the Bluetooth fuse. Will monitor the voltage overnight and go from there. I will say that this drain is tricky since it did not show itself when doing the milliamp draw test. So it's something that's trying to kick back on while vehicle is off. Only time will tell. Will update more as new information arises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted February 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2021 Yes. I'm hoping it's this fuse causing grief. However could still be alternator. Voltage Was 12.72v then decided to take it for a 10 minute drive. Got home, waited an hour and checked voltage and it's only at 12.68? But when idling its charging fine at 14.50. So either the alternator isn't pumping out enough juice while actually driving (I had two seat warmers on, HVAC front and HVAC rear on as well) , or my battery drained quite a bit in the hour it sat. Currently reading another topic about a user who experienced this exact same thing. Unfortunately he never posted a solution. One thing at a time though. First I want to see which fuse is problematic. Then once I figure out that gremlin, I'll move on to the charging issue by connecting my obd2 scanner and monitor the voltage while actually driving to see if it dips. OhareFred and Locosiete 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ngrrox Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 Hi Shawn, my DJ has exactly same issue and my current draw is very similar to your measured values. The ABS value is draining around 0.5A. Did you have a solution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 User is no longer active. This post is from 4 years ago. larryl 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locosiete Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 8 hours ago, jkeaton said: User is no longer active. This post is from 4 years ago. Mehhh! That was only like 4 summers ago 🤣🤣🤣 jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted May 22 Author Report Share Posted May 22 8 hours ago, jkeaton said: User is no longer active. This post is from 4 years ago. Still here! Lol. Sold the journey 2 years ago but from what I remember the issue ended up being either the bluetooth fuse, or the rust protection module. 95% sure was module because I put the Bluetooth fuse back in and didn't have a battery issue for a long time. 2late4u, jkeaton and Locosiete 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted May 22 Report Share Posted May 22 hmm what was the rust protection module? was it something electronic I would assume, never heard of such a devise..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted May 22 Author Report Share Posted May 22 5 minutes ago, 2late4u said: hmm what was the rust protection module? was it something electronic I would assume, never heard of such a devise..... Yeah, it's a small square box located under the hood. When buying new vehicles they offer it for like an extra 1000 or so. Corrosion protection. I would pop the hood and check to see if you have one installed. Would be located closest to the windshield. Top right or top left corner under the hood. 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 15 hours ago, Shawn855 said: Still here! Lol. Sold the journey 2 years ago but from what I remember the issue ended up being either the bluetooth fuse, or the rust protection module. 95% sure was module because I put the Bluetooth fuse back in and didn't have a battery issue for a long time. Sorry. Hadn’t seen you post in awhile. lol. I sold my journey in 2016. 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locosiete Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 35 minutes ago, jkeaton said: Sorry. Hadn’t seen you post in awhile. lol. I sold my journey in 2016. 🤣 Lol I've modified my Journey to the point nobody would buy it and if they did want to doubt they would offer much 🤣🤣 jkeaton 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted May 23 Author Report Share Posted May 23 3 hours ago, Locosiete said: Lol I've modified my Journey to the point nobody would buy it and if they did want to doubt they would offer much 🤣🤣 Lol good on us for still being here, helping out. Cheers. Locosiete and jkeaton 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted May 24 Report Share Posted May 24 Here is a electronic module I took off my daughters 2010 Rondo …for the same reason. Car couldn’t sit two weeks without battery being low. Maybe with an AGM battery they might be a better option. Have been around for years, sacrificial anode technology used on submarines etc. Keeps a low voltage pulse on entire metal body of car. I lthink it was adding a 110 milli amp to parasitic load, added up to quarter amp total draw. Too much. Car still had rust, although less than a normal non undercoated vehicle. Not worth the grief IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locosiete Posted May 25 Report Share Posted May 25 1 hour ago, John/Horace said: Here is a electronic module I took off my daughters 2010 Rondo …for the same reason. Car couldn’t sit two weeks without battery being low. Maybe with an AGM battery they might be a better option. Have been around for years, sacrificial anode technology used on submarines etc. Keeps a low voltage pulse on entire metal body of car. I lthink it was adding a 110 milli amp to parasitic load, added up to quarter amp total draw. Too much. Car still had rust, although less than a normal non undercoated vehicle. Not worth the grief IMO. Always wondered if those devices actually help or it is just some snake oil 2late4u 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted May 25 Report Share Posted May 25 I think this unit was rated at around 60 milli amp continuous draw. It was on car when she got it and appeared 8-9 yrs old. May have had an internal issue because it was over drawing power. But body was slightly better than usual for rust belt vehicles. Brake lines were rotted and I replaced with nickel copper lines. With a multi meter you can actually see the electrical energy pulse on the frame. But with so much plastic and isolated components from main subframe there are still parts not being protected. AGM battery’s would really suit this type of application…and even your killer sound system power requirements. Faster charge and slower sitting discharge etc. Anti rust sprays annually are still the best protection in rust belt areas imo. Most of them are not actual petroleum oil but environmentally friendly ingredients. Like lanolin, wool oil, refined mineral oils (like medicinal or baby oil) etc. Swelling rubber can be risk from some of the sprays. Locosiete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted May 25 Report Share Posted May 25 Right up there with locking lug nuts.... Locosiete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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