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It’s dead


Joel

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1 hour ago, Joel said:

Everything has been kept up fortunately. I’ve always been good about following service intervals. I’ve been doing some shopping and have found a used engine with 38k on it for $2100 and I can get a new engine from Mopar for $4200. I just don’t know if it would be worth all the time and expense.


To play devils advocate, let’s say you go with the 2100 engine. How much for all the electronics you need?  That 2100 doesn’t cover labor I’m sure, but let’s say you do all the repairs yourself. No real labor costs other than your time, assuming you have all the tools you need (engine lift, transmission jack, etc).  No warranty if you do you the work, other than you get to fix it again.  Once everything is all together, you turn the key and discover you need to tow it to a dealer to get the computer to talk to all the new electronic parts in order to get it to run. If you are lucky, it runs for 10 years.  If your like me, it will catch fire again on the way home from the dealer.  Not enough to burn down, just enough to screw you.  Food for thought....

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  • 4 weeks later...

Glad you got it going, interesting.

Starter could have been shorted by the arcing and heat damage.

Knocking could be related to bad coil or injector harness stuff etc. Electrical arcing damage related.

 

Always scan for codes first and go from there.

Make sure any repairs are solder and heat shrink; no electrical tape repairs. Tape drys out and you can have issues later.

Edited by John/Horace
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The only codes I could pull were for the VVT solenoid on the intake side so I replaced both of them and still have the knocking. I only have a basics code scanner so I am not sure what other codes are there, but the check engine light is still on so I’m assuming there are codes that my scanner can’t read? 

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12 hours ago, Locosiete said:

 

 

Just tell everyone it's the limited edition with a Cummins diesel. Throw a Cummins badge and noone will ever question it lol 


 

lol it runs smooth it’s just that knocking. I pulled the coils today and they look and smell pretty burnt. The connectors even look like they got way too hot. Plugs even look and smell the same. 

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Scan for codes for an idea what’s going on. Contact cleaner for dirty electrical connections is really good, it’s designed for motors and dirty relay contacts, but will sometimes damage paint and plastic. So be careful.  Plugs run in the combustion chamber and are designed for hi heat all the time, if still codes after repairs investigate more. Plugs in 2.4 don’t last long but are cheap.

 

Repairs should be cheaper than new motor you thought at first. Harness is made up of several different sections or splices. They can be bought from dealer, or even auto part recyclers.

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