OhareFred

Glad it was a simple fix (relatively anyway) and under warranty!

Confirmed bad battery. Apparently, so bad that the tester machine at Canadian Tire had issues. It was under warranty and the swapped it out at no cost. 
Replaced battery and is immediately improved from lifeless to looking like it's all good. I haven't been able to take it for a drive yet but I'll keep an eye on it and will update the post if another issue is found that should be added. 

You stated you installed a battery “that looked new”. Was it new or not? Outer looks mean nothing. Batteries can go bad in 3 weeks.  You need to have the battery tested.  You can have it on a charger from now till doomsday and if you have a shorted cell it will never hold a charge or start the car. Newer cars are very voltage sensitive.
Did you check the battery cables to make sure they are tight and clean?  Have you tried jump starting the car?  If you jump it and it starts you can have the battery properly tested, otherwise you may need to remove it and take it to be tested.  AutoZone, O’Rielys, NAPA all have new electronic battery testers with print outs of battery test results.
I really think you need to look into the battery first. If that checks good then you can move to the under hood fuse box and relays...

You stated you installed a battery “that looked new”. Was it new or not? Outer looks mean nothing. Batteries can go bad in 3 weeks.  You need to have the battery tested.  You can have it on a charger from now till doomsday and if you have a shorted cell it will never hold a charge or start the car. Newer cars are very voltage sensitive.
Did you check the battery cables to make sure they are tight and clean?  Have you tried jump starting the car?  If you jump it and it starts you can have the battery properly tested, otherwise you may need to remove it and take it to be tested.  AutoZone, O’Rielys, NAPA all have new electronic battery testers with print outs of battery test results.
I really think you need to look into the battery first. If that checks good then you can move to the under hood fuse box and relays...

You stated you installed a battery “that looked new”. Was it new or not? Outer looks mean nothing. Batteries can go bad in 3 weeks.  You need to have the battery tested.  You can have it on a charger from now till doomsday and if you have a shorted cell it will never hold a charge or start the car. Newer cars are very voltage sensitive.
Did you check the battery cables to make sure they are tight and clean?  Have you tried jump starting the car?  If you jump it and it starts you can have the battery properly tested, otherwise you may need to remove it and take it to be tested.  AutoZone, O’Rielys, NAPA all have new electronic battery testers with print outs of battery test results.
I really think you need to look into the battery first. If that checks good then you can move to the under hood fuse box and relays...

sounds like a dead battery, that wont take a charge, put in a new one

9 DAYS?....YES get it back to the dealer with giving the same info you posted here. 
Hard to say anything constructive as the only real info you gave here is the YEAR of the vehicle and it's a Diesel model being in the EU market. A lot of members here on the forum are from the NA market with diesels being few in number if they were even marketed here.
 Good Luck to you and report back any progress for the benefit of ALL the members here!   

So far, so good.  Week and a half in and HFM still working, car has been starting, etc.  The longest time between car starts was about 60+ hours so that is positive.  Fingers crossed, haha.  

got to admit you did hang in there a long time working on it,hope you get off light as well

New cars all need a battery to run now not like the old days to just turn the starter motor one bad cell can be crippling 

probally the battery if you can get it started go to a part store have them do a load check,if not pull your battery and take it down and check it but i would buy a high quality battery and go from there i have already replaced my 14 crossroad battery, no luck with mopar battery

Engine oil dipstick.....

is your dipstick showing way over the full mark? its either in the engine crankcase or leaking out somewhere, the engine is probally shot, sorry you have this problem

most of us dont bother to go to all the trouble of checking your info under your profile, so YES it does matter when asking for help to include ALL the pertinent info with your request for information ,,, just makes good sense and also makes it a lot easier...also they quit making paper back manuals,if you have the cash they do offer online from what iv heard but expensive

Right. Playing a DVD while driving is a bad idea. That's my 5 cents.
Peace.

gieves,
I would recommend not manipulating your DJ to achieve this.
I always say if it's not broken don't fix it, not to mention the overwhelming distraction in low light conditions such as at night.
But that's just my two cents.

Uh, no. its not free. You have to buy the lockpick and install it. Unless you ask for it for Christmas!

A few dollars now for a shop diagnostic to firmly identify the problem can save you a considerable amount of time and money later. You can still fix it yourself, if you are so inclined, but you will likely spend more in trail and error.  Pay for the answer if not cure.  Sometimes it's much cheaper in the long run. 

For once someone has an issue and furnishes us with plenty of information!  Thank you for not having us play 60 questions..
 
Now, was the water pump replaced or just flushed? Honestly it wouldn’t make sense not to replace it but....
 
Did you replace the engine temp sensor?  You didn’t mention a boil over, so could the sensor be jacked up?
 
If your still having issues with the heat in front, were the blend doors ever checked/replaced?
 
That being said, if it isn’t any of the above I’d lean towards a head gasket......
 
let us know!!

I will get the codes from my husband when he gets home he has the code reader. 

Not much of an update.   Had to replace the cap in the wife's job's parking lot.   She told me it was a little low on coolant when she got to work.   But the temps didn't climb at all.   But she works 7 minutes from home so I wasn't surprised about that.   Got a gallon of coolant (the 50/50 mix) just in case.   Got to her work, replaced the cap, and topped off the coolant.   (It was about a 1/4 inch below the cold line.   Started it up.  Let get up to temp, bled the system, a few small air bubbles but nothing alarming.   Let it get up to 219° and the fan kicked on, and shut down when it dropped to 212°.   Thermostat opened and shut like normal, everything ran fine.  Let it build to 219° again and the fan kicked on, and shut down at 212° again.   Bled it again.   Nothing but coolant.    Will take it for a drive tomorrow after I get off work and see how it handles actual driving for a good trip and see if the overheating comes back.   

Years ago?...whole diff technology now. Cats only "plug up" from 2 main causes. Overly rich running engine(poor mileage and operation and usually CEL) or excessive oil consumption(burns oil, not leaking out).

On my 09 I had a stalling issue when shifting from R to D when it was cold out.  Only did it once, first thing in the morning. The dealer replaced the intake plenum because some kind of valve went bad inside. That fixed it.  I have the 3.5 V6.....

Can't edit? Any who, the leaker turns out to be the thermostat housing. Easy fix.

It’s turning over but not starting. CPS sensor can be bad, or timing belt has jumped, remove cover and inspect teeth on belt.