B4ZINGA

FYI, don't use wheel covers on leather or vinyl-wrapped wheels. It will damage the leather/vinyl.

I'll be leaving my bowl and shroud chrome. Since I'm using TYC assemblies, I'll need to remove the bezel and hit it with oven cleaner to remove the chrome on that.

My 300M is going quad using FX-Rs and E46-Rs. The hard part is getting all four projectors to line up right. The key though is to use pairs of projectors that correct for the other pairs inadequacies. IE, have a set that is wide, but not necessarily good for throw, and a second set that covers the throw. It's also good to have them use the same type of bulb, so if a bulb goes out in the primary set, you can pull one from the secondary set to quickly get back on the road with good light. It's even nicer if both sets are bi-xenon. Then you can call up your best Picard voice and shout SHIELDS when you flip on the high beams. Caution: Passengers may be startled the first time. Annoyed every time thereafter...

Were any of the bad batteries tested? Was the alternator tested? Were any tests run on the vehicle to locate current draw while the vehicle was off? Any competent mechanic would do these things. Three "bad" batteries in 3 years can happen, but normally that means something else is going on. Belle Tire is good for tires and nothing else. They hire technicians to replace parts, not mechanics to find and correct problems. Stop going there for battery problems. I only go there for new tires and air-ups (when I don't feel like doing it myself). Go to the dealer and inquire about software/firmware updates, that may help correct the transmission and BT issues. The iPhone/iPod issue is the fault of Apples update to iOS last year. Uconnect hasn't caught up. If any of these issues were documented while the warranty was still active, you can fight them if they try to charge you now for the same problems. Bring your paperwork from the previous visits as proof.

Keep in mind, it was designed as a Dodge back in 2007 and 2008, when Chrysler Group had to make cuts on their products. When it was refreshed for 2011, the focus was on the bigger complaints of the interior and engine/trans, and bringing the aesthetics up, than on the convenience of a power liftgate. Power liftgates are starting to be more common, so I'd be surprised if the Giulia-based replacement doesn't have it. Even the new Edge has it for 2016. Only way to get it on a JC Dodge crossover (Journey) is to have an aftermarket company make one. That can get pricey. I haven't really thought about it in the past year and a half, so I don't think Journey needs it. It's better suited to owners of minivans and full-size SUVs, who might need it to open on its own while they're carrying fussy children or need it to close itself because it's high up.

I was wondering if it was possible to remove all of the OEM innards. While I'm in there I want to investigate making clear side marker reflectors, and replacing the OEM high beam/blinker section with a simple lamp that I can fit a switchback bulb into. White for DRL/running light, amber for blinker. We'll see once I have it apart I guess.

It's been a while since I've had a vehicle inspected (MI has no inspection whatsoever... and NEEDS it...), however I was always under the impression that if the CEL was lit, you failed. Any other light didn't affect inspection, but the garage would inform you of it and generously offer to fix it for you... for just an arm (you get to keep the leg!). Might be worth a quick call to the garage to ask the question. With so many recalls lately, I'm sure they've been asked it before. Even if you go to the inspection and fail, they typically give you 30 days to fix the problem and come back.

If I was looking at it, I'd make the educated guess that the black wire is ground and white is hot. Try it out -- if I was wrong, flip it and try again. Silly question, but was someone stepping on the brake pedal while you were checking for the hot wire? I'm assuming there was.

Found what I was looking for on Amazon... placed my order for three sets of projector kits. Mini H1 7.0 stage 3 for my Journey, FX-R stage three and E46-R b-stock with Morimoto HID kit and matching shrouds for my Special. Just need some 9006 and 9005 splitters, LED demon eyes, switch for the inner projector pait, and a simple DRL kit (for flash-to-pass) to complete the Specials upgrade parts. And new assemblies for both cars. Saved $220.

I have a shopping cart ready to go with FX-Rs and E46-Rs for my Special. I'm considering adding the MH1 7.0s for my Journey... 25% off FTW. But, I'm having a hard time finding TYC headlights for not-obscene prices... Perhaps I'll have to wait for the cable guy to switch my service tomorrow and look from my desktop. Could swear I've seen them for decent prices before... For less than $200/pair.

The shifting sands of rumors indicate that the next Journey depends on what it is you're envisioning... Chrysler is gearing up to build a Chrysler-branded crossover based on the RU minivan architecture in Windsor, which would very likely fit the Journey's current role of a FWD family hauler. It doesn't yet have a confirmed name, though Caravan and Pacifica are thrown around (Pacifica was recently trademarked). The next Dodge crossover will very likely be a sister to the Alfa Romeo crossover that is in development on the new midsize RWD Giulia platform and will replace the JC-based Journey. Toluca assembly will be shutting down early next year for a few months while it retools and modernizes, then will resume production of Journey and 500 as they are now. Rumor has it Journey production will eventually shift northward, though I wouldn't anticipate that happening until the new design is ready. With Alfa taking precedence, that won't be for a few years yet. Sergio has shown an interest in moving 200 and Dart down to Toluca where labor is cheaper, and Journey up north where high labor has less of an impact on FCAs bottom line (SUVS and trucks have higher profit margins). Naturally, this is all speculation. Take it with a grain of salt just large enough to satisfy the DOTs needs in the Great Lakes region for the next few winters.

Either that's a Canadian-spec thing or a winter-wheel-thing. When my TPMS detects low inflation pressure, it chimes EVERY time until I pacify it. Then again, I do winter just fine on all-season tires and don't change them for winter tires annually, so I don't ever not have TMPS sensors.

Supposed to finally be more like the great lakes this weekend... between that and the warm weather we've been having, I keep picturing the Robot Chicken skit of the gummy bear dancing and singing (enjoying beautiful weather), and then stepping into a bear trap (winter weather) screaming/cursing. Time for metro Detroiters to go from driving too slow to crawling an inch at a time in their Range Rovers and Escalades.

In the absence of TMPS sensors installed in the winter set, the TMPS chime will sound each time the car is started and the EVIC will flash a warning message. Other than that, there should be no issues. You can use alloy wheels from Journey, Grand Cherokee, Durango, and I believe cars riding on the RT and JS platforms (minivans, Avenger/200), though I would double check that on the JS (JC is a stretched version of JS, but I'm not sure if wheel hubs carried over as well). Same rules apply on brand/model/size of tire and rotations if you have AWD (100% matching, and rotate every oil change). FYI, automakers don't use "mag" wheels anymore (other than for race and sports cars, Porsche uses magnesium alloys for the Carrera GT). You have aluminum alloy wheels.

All that turns up (difficult to search with 4-character minimums) is something for 2012 calendar year builds. Mine was built February 10th, 2014. I'll have to have them diagnose it and reference the TSB anyway, as well as have them do the idler pulley TSB. Was hoping to do that while it was for the ABS moisture recall.

Is there a link to the current TSBs? I'm aware only of the TSB for the cold-start idler pulley noise on 3.6L's. My suspension squeaks a lot when the car has been sitting for a few hours or more, and *might* clunk. I say might, because I live in Michigan... where lawmakers are unconcerned with our roads falling apart and bridges opening up weekly. I'm curious what other TSBs there might be. Google search isn't turning up the idler pulley or anything with the suspension...

I'm aware the trim lines differ between countries, however I'm not sure if the appearance packages differ as well.

There is no such thing as Plug badging. Our SXT Plus has over the SXT (supposedly, don't quote me), 8.4A radio w/ BT streaming and sirius, leather-wrapped steering wheel (shifter is NOT leather-wrapped), trick front passenger seat, LED interior map and dome lighting. It's a 4-cyl Blacktop with cloth seats, nothing heated... we added remote start at the dealer. Only driver's window has one-touch down, no one-touch up (1st world problems when I get it from my R/T... sigh).

I'm not sure if there were any changes after 2014 or between US- and CA-spec models. Our 2014 Redline 2-coat Pearl SXT Blacktop (technically SXT Plus with Blacktop appearance package) has the black grille, black headlight bezels, black mirror covers, black front fascia lower grille trim (in place of the standard silver piece), black roof rails, black wheels as part of the Blacktop package. Being an SXT plus, it also has the 8.4A radio with BT calling and music streaming and Sirius, dual-zone automatic climate control (I believe the tri-zone is for 7-passenger models, ours is a 5-passenger), and LED interior reading and dome lamps. Can be ordered as 5-passenger, 7-passenger, 4-cyl/FWD, 6-cyl/FWD or AWD. Interestingly, I thought Blacktop couldn't be ordered on an R/T. I participated in a local car show at a Chrysler franchise in September and at the back of the lot was a Redline 2-coat Pearl R/T with all of the Blacktop trimmings on board. No window sticker to indicate if that was done at Toluca, but that dealer doesn't upfit cars, so I'm assuming it was ordered that way. We got a good deal on ours because nobody wants Blacktop Journeys... at least in PA where it was purchased. It was on the lot for two months.

Crawl under on a dry day and check all driveline components for signs of leaks Front and rear axles, front and rear differentials, transfer case, drivelines, trans itself. How long ago did you have the axle, PTU, trans fluids changed? If they're near the end of their service lives (or past it), change them out and see what happens. Beyond that, shop time. Try an independent mechanic, as the dealer tends to be expensive and would likely just tell you to replace the whole shebang without even looking at it.

I expected not to be LIED to, and I expected the mounting system to be improved with more robust insulation. A bolt driven through is a hack backyard mechanic way of doing it. Obviously, there was zero engineering involved in this "fix". This is a repair worthy of the "thereifixedit" caption, and one FCA should be ashamed of. The proper repair would have been to install new insulation, as the first service advisor I spoke to said would happen. You replace the defective part, not ram a bolt through it into the engine and call it a day. Instead of installing replacement insulation, they rammed the bolt through it into the engine, effectively lying to me point-blank. You're right, its a voluntary recall. Had the dealer not LIED, we would not have brought the vehicle in. Instead of repairing the vehicle, they've damaged it. I wonder how long before this shoddy repair further damages the mounting system by the bolt being removed and reinstalled repeatedly? It's designed to be simply removed and reinstalled for service... Well, now an extra step has been introduced that was never a part of the original design and won't be robust any longer after a few removals and reinstallations. A replacement cover and mounting system will be needed when that happens.

We're taking our 2.4L Blacktop in tonight. I called the dealer and asked what the repair is, and the service advisor checked and said they'll install insulation on the engine cover mounting system, I believe on the cover itself. This is the proper repair, not driving a bolt through the cover. Doing that is a very hack way of doing it. I'll reconfirm when we get to the dealer and check the cover when the repair is done. The engineer who thinks that's a good way of doing it needs to be reassigned and sent back to school.

The Journey's rear calipers need the piston to turn in order to compress it? That's a first. I've never seen an American car need that.... only Volvos. Was it designed in Sweden or something?

Journey received standard dual-piston front Calipers for the 2012 model year. Regarding the original question (thread is TL;DR) on whether you should keep it... at that mileage you have to expect problems will arise. If I bought something that was over 5 years old and had over 100,000 miles (sorry, I don't know how clicks translates into miles or kilometers), and it asked for a new battery, terminals, and brakes, I wouldn't think anything of it and replaced all the parts with new ones of a caliber representing how long I intend to own the car... the longer I will keep it, the better (and pricier) the replacement parts.

To make them useful you would need to open them up and replace the projector with one from TRS, so instead of spending a lot at TRS and a little for standard headlights, you'd spend a lot at TRS and a lot on the A/M headlights. Better to use standard headlights and make your own, or have some make them in that fashion. Someone here is offering that service.