webslave

Haven't done my Journey yet, but, have done plenty of jobs on other MOPARs with the ABS system. Unless you dismantle, for repair, the ABS system, there is no need to bleed it unless you've used it a lot (not likely for most of us) and you have a boatload of air in the fluid (also not likely). Just ignore the ABS bleeding and do the "normal" manual brake bleeding as there is a very small likelihoood of you having introduced any air into its system. The ABS system only cycles brake fluid when it is used and usually doesn't take up air unless you've run the brake system virtually dry or you've dismantled for an ABS system type repair.
No need for the scan tool if you use the bleeders on the calipers and a suction device or the "pedal pushing" system.

They seem to have "fixed" most of the annoyances/problems that are in this thread in the 2013's...at least in the R/T. The heat for the driver's seat and steering wheel are programmable to come on with remote start when the ambient temperature is below a threshold (don't remember what it is 40 degrees?), though my wife wishes there was a setting to have the passenger side to come on also (she's jealous; if I use remote start to warm the car when we're going somewhere, my seat is warm while hers is cold ). The cup holders are fine, at least for us. No issues with the brakes; useage, longevity (though the car is still really new) or brake dust and it has the larger disc and caliper in the front. Body is tight, no rattles. Fuel mileage has been great, especially after a Hemi Jeep Commander; we're averaging 20 mpg in mixed driving and we got 28 mpg on the highway recently going down to MD and that's with the 3.6 Pentastar with the 6 speed auto and AWD. All in all, we're pleased with the car, both mechanically and ergonomically. The power seat and the tilt/telescoping steering wheel allow both of us a comfortable driving position and the R/T's suspension, while taught and flat cornering is very supple when encountering potholes and pavement seams. The AWD has proven to be almost as good as the full-time 4WD of the Jeep Commander the Journey replaced.
I do, however, have a few "peeves" with the car.
1) DRLs - why do they make it so difficult to get them activated? We got them activated, but, sheesh, what a lot of trouble when the software and hardware is already installed...
2) Why, when you order a car with the roof rail and trailer tow package "options", do you then have to order, seperately, and at additional cost, the cross bars for the roof rails and the trailer hitch for the "trailer tow package"? If I order those options, it is apparent that I want to put things on the roof and tow something or I wouldn't have ordered and paid for the ability. Come on Dodge; if you have to charge more, then charge more, but, if you are going to offer an option, make it a complete option and install the pieces (what's with the trailer 4 pin connector in a bag tossed in the back?)
3) This "peeve" applies to all the newer cars; why can't I get "Service Manuals" for these vehicles? They are obviously available, at least electronically, as the dealerships have to have access to that information; make the CD or DVD's available to the public. You want to charge me a couple of hundred dollars for the information? So be it, but, at least give me the option of buying them if I want to... If something comes loose or starts to rattle, I can tighten it or re-assemble it, but, it helps to know how it is supposed to go together and what, if any, torque values are necessary. You can't get that out of the owner's manual.
4) The only "ergonomic" problem I've encountered thus far is getting in and out of the car; why are the front seat grab handles located in the roof towards the seat back? Useless for getting in and out. The grab handles for the car should be on the front A pillars where they could provide for some leverage and torque to get out - that's a long leg reach to the ground for us shorter folks (I'm 5' 5" and the wife is 5' even). Come spring, I'm going to see if I can find a suitable anchoring point on the A pillars to mount my own.
That's it. Still new, but, the only problem, thus far is the compas isn't displaying in the EVIC and I'll take it up to the dealer next week to let them investigate as to why... It is apparent from this thread that MOPAR had some growing problems with the early Journeys, that's a shame, but, at least to my experience, they made the appropriate changes and I'm very satisfied with our R/T's quality, features and price.

Thought I'd post a nice site for all your wiring needs for your Dodge vehicle. Search by your VIN, or just enter the details. It's located on the top of the webpage.
It's an awesome site for those doing mods that have electrical needs.
https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm
Maybe link this to the "pinned" topic above.

Not to dampen the enthusiasm any, but, bear in mind that the air/fuel mixture is computer controlled along with engine timing and valve timing. I put CAI and CAT back systems on my Hemi Jeep. Liked the sound, however, tests before and after showed no true change in either acceleration or mileage. The computer takes whatever air it is getting and adjusts the mixture, engine timing and valve timing and adjusts it "on the fly" to yield optimum output of the engine and a CAI doesn't have any "blower" or "turbo" effect (physically forcing more air/fuel into the cylinders) and thusly doesn't really change throttle response or mileage. I used my OBD II computer (reads real time/on the go data) to test the Jeep both before and after. The "perceived" benefits were based on the sound...the CAI sounds great and the CAT back really amplified the perception that I was going faster, quicker and that my mpg should then benefit from the effort. Unless you alter the engine's computer algorithms to compensate for increased air flow and less exhaust pressure, the computer will only use what it needs to satisfy its programming. That's just the way the system works. Even in the "dinosaur" cars I grew up with, if I added CAI and straight through exhaust (no CAT converters in those days), we didn't see any real improvements until we changed the jets in the carburetor and added a cam to change the valve timing along with a more aggressive spring pack on the distributor to change engine timing. The CAI and CAT back are just perception changers...you'll think (even swear) that it goes faster, quicker and gets better mileage, but, it actually doesn't and with my Jeep, I found that my mileage actually went down over the long haul because I really, really liked the sound and found myself putting more "foot into it" than before just to listen to it... Real world changes? Nada, not as long as the computer controls the engine, but, ah...the sound. :dreamy:
As mentioned above, I would definitely get the pre-filter ( a fine mesh bag that is shaped like the filter with elastic around the edge) as it will help keep the main filter clean of the "big stuff" and you'll get even better sound by building a box around the filter so that it doesn't draw as much warm air off the engine (won't provide any additional "performance", but, provides a more stable air supply) and provides an "echo chamber" for the cool sound.

So let's recap this thread.
You blame Dodge for lowering the tow ratings on the Journey after a redesign. Don't really seem to be too upset with dealer in first post, just Dodge's fault. Then the dealer is blamed for lying to make a sale. Also, false advertising is alleged when nowhere is it advertised or printed by Dodge that the tow weight is anything other than 2,500 pounds. Lastly, it is clear that you know what the tow rating of your vehicle is at this time and you will choose to ignore it.
Seems to me you started this thread to boast you tow more than what the vehicle is designed for, as even the thread title indicates as much. Now it's all American car manufacturers are struggling because they are deceiving their customers. I find that ironic, considering you started this thread to deceive people that they could tow more because you did it.

Dont post on a forum if you dont value opinions !!!! the fact of the matter is that car sales men, and yes even dodge dealer directors will tell you want you want to hear to make a sale. Im not generalizing and saying that all are bad and YES, some will lie to your face and in the end its your car and if something ever happens where they say you voided your warentee and abused your car then you got nobody to blame but yourself. Will something happen, who knows, but im sure if something does go wrong that same dierector will be the first to say that the manual only says you can only tow 2500 lbs !!!

He shouldn't charge much if anything (I've bought a boat load of vehicles over the years at mine and they don't charge me at all for a lot of this sort of thing). I would install it first and see if you actually need to see him at all. It may be possible that the CANBus is, in the case of fog lights, "self-sensing" and may detect their addition automatically and make the additional changes in their behaviour without needed dealer interaction. I'm only guessing that the dealer might have to make a change to the VIN, since the Fog Lights have their own seperate option code. The CANBus is the MOPAR iteration of the OBD II computer system used on their cars that tie all the individual computer modules together into a cohesive "control" environment for all the different areas of your car. There are entertainment modules, engine modules, brake modules, transmission modules, options modules, etc. and they all need to communicate with each other in order to vary the operation of their "parts"...the CANBus is the pathway for that communication and the modules themselves. Controller Area Network bus...

It won't hurt your engine to have 5W-30 as opposed to 5W-20 in it. In fact, for summer use, it is better to have the added thickness of 30 at the "heated" end of the spectrum. As long as you have the cold start lubricity of the 5W, I only see poor public relations as opposed to a threat of your engine's life. Most auto makers have gone to thinner oils for economy's sake and not any specific need of the engine. The only exception is the Hemi with the MDS option; it needs 0W-20 in order for the valves to properly float when the MDS shuts off 4 cylinders.
From the owner's manual (emphasis added):
"SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended for all operating
temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature
starting and vehicle fuel economy."
Again, poor choice by the dealership in not informing you of the mistake and giving you the option of a drain/re-fill, but, there won't be any damage done to your Journey.

There has been "rumors" of an SRT6 Journey being in the works with from one to two turbo chargers, but, as of the last I heard, no production is actually scheduled. One site actually reported and had pictures of a mule that they claimed was a test bed for it. The 3.6 Pentastar is zippy now, I couldn't imagine one with a turbo or two under the hood (but, I would certainly get in line with my checkbook to get one...).

Not only have I not been able to find a "freebie", I can't even get one off the Tech Authority website...I paid several hundred dollars (gladly) for the set I had on my '08 Jeep Commander, but, now they won't let you have one at any price...still haven't been able to buy one for my '11 RAM 2500 LongHorn HO CTD, either. I think that is totally wrong for any auto manufacturer to block repair manuals from the users. I realize that the cost of printing them is high, but, they won't even release the electronic versions. That's just wrong, in my book and may figure into a future vehicle purchase; I'm not likely to rebuild the engine, but, for something as simple as pulling trim to look for a short or to install an option not provided by the manufacturer (CB radio, for instance), you've got to have access to the proper procedure to keep from breaking something else and to be able to access torque values for simple repairs...for instance, what is the proper torque value for the caliper bolts when installing new pads? What is the proper procedure for getting the caliper pistons to retract?
Raw deal...and if you do find one, let us know where you got it!

The cars are designed to "detect any abnormal running events" and to shut themselves off when using the remote start option. There is something flagging your system with a problem and the car is shutting itself off as a cautionary procedure. I had that happen with my Commander. My guess is that although your battery has been "recharged", the CANBus is still sensing a problem and is aborting the remote start process. You may recharge the battery to a condition that enables a start, but, low voltage, or abnormally high alternator draw (particularly since the battery is "cold challenged" due to temperature), is causing a "fault" on the CANBus...you'll probably, IMHO, need to replace the battery to completely rectify the situation...

I had chrome clad wheels on my '08 Jeep Commander... Some of the best wheels I've ever owned. Held up well, even off-roading, never an issue with brake dust etching the finish and no matter what I went through, they easily cleaned up good as new. With what I've seen brake dust do to coated aluminum wheels, I'd be OK with chrome clads. My '13 R/T came with the optional styled aluminum wheels as part of the R/T package, but, I wouldn't have batted an eyelash if it had been standard with the clad wheels. As long as the cladding isn't broken all the way through, I'd just live with it. If you curb check an aluminum wheel, you'd be in the same boat; not much you can do with a curb check no matter what the wheel is made of.