webslave

No spoilers for me, but, I did put the bug shield on. I do a lot of highway driving (even the two laner to town is 55mph) and all of my cars that didn't have the bug shields showed thousands of dings along the hood's edge. I'd rather the bug shield take the impact and when it gets really nasty looking, off it comes and a new one goes on as opposed to trying to get the leading edge or the whole hood painted and not have the paint match (I ran through 2 bug shields on my '96 Caravan and was working on a 3rd). You are correct that they do squat for the "bugs on the windshield", but, they do protect the hood from dings. As for the mud flaps...the same thing. Out here in the wilds, a lot of our roads are gravel. The don't do much for mud, but, they do slow the gravel down so that the rocker panels aren't all dinged up which helps control rust and we use salt in the worst of the snows down here. If you don't have a lot of gravel to deal with, I agree, they aren't as useful, but, for flying gravel and when they "chip and tar" our township roads, they do the job.

Don't know... I even requested the DRLs when I ordered my vehicle (as I do with all my new cars), but, the LMK code was never added at the factory. My UConnect had the software switch, but, that switch is standard software in the UConnect system (not an "option" added switch, but, part of the base software). For some reason, your DJ came to you with the LMK option code already loaded. I'm assuming that you've verified that you are actually turning them on... I could turn them "on" and "off" from the UConnect menu, but, the DRLs wouldn't illuminate when the vehicle was put in gear. Though the UConnect said they were on, they weren't. It wasn't until the LMK code was added by my dealership and re-flashed that the switch actually made them illuminate. Hence, the return to the dealer for *most* of us (you lucky dog) as our vehicles didn't come with the code pre-loaded as evidently yours was...

IIRC, all the AWD models will say "AWD" on the rear hatch...easier than crawling on the ground. but, yes, the AWDs have the rear axles and transfer box/differential unit in the middle. Not always easy to see behind the spare and exhaust unit. Can't go by how loaded it is with options, AWD is an "option" and not everybody wanted to spring for the extra money, particularly, those that live in the deep south (not much snow down there to warrant the AWD cost).

I used it when I ordered my '13 in late '12. Was an interesting concept, but, once it did the factory thing (a couple of days from start to loading on a train), it wasn't much good for the remaining time. Once it got on the train, the VOTS didn't track it any longer other than to say "In transport". The train meanders around the company country and the cars (the train cars) get dropped, a few cars unloaded, then sit while waiting for another train, then to another city where they get dropped, etc. Once the vehicle is dropped in a city considered a "hub" for your dealer, the car is off-loaded from the train where it sits on a lot awaiting enough other cars to make truck transport economical. At no time during the process was there any further information in the VOTS output. Travel time, for my car, was a bit over three weeks, and that was to PA. So, if you know your vehicle cleared the build process, which really doesn't take long, and was awaiting shipping, you won't get much more from the VOTS. Once the car hit my dealership, it was another 3 days while they did the delivery work; cleanup, deprogramming the transport mode, verifying the options were all there and worked, getting their paperwork done so the car could be transferred, etc.

The last time we "played" with my Jeep Commander by setting it for Cananda, enabling the DRLs and then setting it back, I, too, got the "sorry it didn't work" line. None of the shop guys realized that when out of gear, they are off and in gear they are on. I had learned that lesson when I activated the DRLs on my '96 Grand Caravan. For the Caravan, I had to go to a Canandian parts supplier and get a relay that plugged into the under dash relay panel. Plugged it in, looked at the lights and said, well that was a waste. Didn't take the relay out (it wasn't returnable, I was just going to let it stay there) and drove it back into the garage and went inside. Wife said, "Great! You got the DRLs working!" and I, of course, said "No, it was a bust". She assured me they were on when I put it in the garage. Did some playing around and discovered that they, indeed, are only on when in gear. Was that way in '96 and continues to this day; got to be in gear for them to light up. That has its advantages as you can run the car for heat in the fall and winter and not have the entire area lit up by the DRLs while parked.

If it is like my other MOPARs, it has the connector, but, in most cases, it is under the overhead console. My Jeep's unit plugged into a master termination along with the over-head lights and the rain sensor. All of it under the overhead console. It is much easier (cheaper) to use ugly connectors and hide them behind the headliner or console, now that most vehicles have an overhead console, than it is to miniaturize a connector and have it look nice, but, exposed. Even the units that have an on/off switch (my Jeep did), the switch, itself is integral to the mirror (a tiny button on the back of the mirror not accessible to connect to...I suppose you could try to disassemble the mirror, but, it is not designed to be taken apart), but, the connector is buried either under the headliner or behind the console. I suspect the DJ's is under the overhead console...

DodgeCACares is absolutely correct...the manuals include directions for all of the options available on the DJ for that year, regardless of whether or not your vehicle was ordered with those options. There are so many options, that "individualized" manuals are not possible. I know for the '13 model year, for instance, that there were 2 "major" divisions for the radio units, the smaller 4.3 unit and the larger 8.4 units and within those two major categories were a whole lot of "options"; speaker assemblies, blue tooth, navigation and UConnect. None were "standard" to any trim line and was only determined by whoever did the ordering for that vehicle. I ordered my DJ R/T and I ordered the top of the line system which was the 8.4N unit, with Nav, blue tooth and UConnect along with the, IIRC, 9 speaker sound system and voice control, however, I could just as easily have ordered a stripped down 4.3 unit to save a whole lot of money or if I planned on ditching it to replace with an Alpine or some other brand unit. I wanted all of the functions integrated; temperature control, heated seats, steering wheel, nav, blue tooth, and UConnect, so, I bit the bullet and paid for them along with all the other options (except the backseat DVD system; no kids) for the '13 model year. There are other options listed in your manual that you may or may not have; some of those, like heated seats and steering wheel, weren't available on all trim lines. Many different configurations for the DJ and there is just one manual that covers all of them. DodgeCACares' build sheet should describe exactly what your DJ was ordered with...and that's the operative word; ordered. The manual covers all the versions, your build sheet will specify which of those are in your particular DJ.

The part number for the wiring harness "kit" (includes the plug 'n play harness and the instructions in a bag) is P68080976AC and inside the bag is a part number attached directly to the harness (use this if you want just the harness and not the whole kit) P68080977AC. This kit will attach to the plug in the rear and give you the 4 pin connector. The "P" just indicates the following is a part number and you should be able to look up the kit by the number and two letters following them.

It is still "early" in the model year for 2014. A dealership has access to the parts listings, but, by and large, most others don't as it is awful early for parts replacement that wouldn't be covered a warranty. Since warranties cover the parts, most places don't bother stocking or listing those parts until the warranty period is winding down, or they feel the demand for the "add-on" market warrants the expense and website updates. It isn't cheap to handle those listings, even the web sites need to be altered to handle the additional data and display and that requires new coding and testing to verify functionality.

The truck has a speed sensitive variable wiper setup - the faster you go, the faster the variable sweep is, but, on the Jeep, the sensor actually activated the wipers, just like the automatic headlights do (it gets dark and the lights come on; again a little sensitive for my tastes, but, not as annoying as the wipers). If it misted, or thought it did, even if it was a mist from the car ahead of you running their windshield cleaner and the mist floated back to your car, the windshield wiper would start, smear the windshield and then stop...then, I'd have to clean my windshield so that I could see through it. Like I said, I disabled it. The automatic headlights are also a bit sensitive. I live out in the woods...late afternoon, if I go under a bunch of trees, the headlights come on (the Jeep, the Ram and the DJ) and then when I get out from under the overhang, they go back off, then under some more trees and they come back on. I'm sure it is annoying if I happen to following someone..."what's that fool back there doing, lights on, lights off, lights on...you get the idea, but, the auto windshield wipers were a nightmare. The speed sensitive variable wiper is just fine though.

I would agree with Journeyman425. The only thing that bothers me a bit, is what happens if someone orders the DRL from the factory, but, is delivered without the code having been installed at the factory? Surely, there must be a technical "fix" that would allow the activation in the event of a "miss" by the factory...? I, personally, have refused delivery of a vehicle because it was shipped without the options I ordered... As an explanation, we order and pay cash for our cars. I have 4 vehicles and two drivers; it isn't necessary for us to "get a vehicle now", so, we order exactly what we want and won't accept anything else. So, in that case, I would have refused delivery of the DJ and made them order a new one; I can't imagine Dodge biting the bullet on the cost of making the "dud" and not having a "fix" for adding the code. It, probably though, is a tightly controlled "secret" to keep the changes to a cost item, but, I think that is a big mistake on Dodge's part. What is the true cost, if the process was freely available, to keep some customers happy? It is that type of thought that losses customers. I've been a MOPAR man for the better part of half a century. My last purchase (the DJ) may, in fact, be my last MOPAR purchase. I'm still miffed at MOPAR on my DJ. I ordered and paid for the roof rails and "tow package" only to find out on delivery that neither one is actually usable despite the fact I paid for them. I paid for the roof rails; what's with not including the cross bars so that I could actually use them? Same thing with the "tow package"; I ordered the package intending to use it, and I come to find out that there is no hitch and the wiring is just "chucked" into the back storage area...? When I found that out (on delivery) I refused delivery until the dealer knocked off the price of those "options"; they, too, were scratching their heads at the lack of customer appreciation that that kind of "service" represents. It would be like ordering a Ram HD pickup with the HD tow package to find out that it didn't come with the bed for the back or a tow hitch; extra cost my #%$#. OK, I'm off that soapbox now, I just get really irritated when I think about it. I, out of pig headedness, still haven't purchased the cross rails or hitch; I won't give MOPAR the money for them, just out of principle. I've still got my RAM CTD and at least in 2011, it still came with the bed and hitch

I started to suggest the rain sensor idea, but, thought that MOPAR had gotten away from that, at least, that design. I had a box very similar to that in my '08 Jeep Hemi Commander Limited. Like my '13 DJ R/T, it was loaded with everything except the backseat DVD (we are in our 60's, no kids, no grandkids and have no use for a backseat DVD), anyway, I digress. One of the options on the Jeep was "automatic windshield wiper operation". It utilized a box, similar to the one in the OP's photo, that looked through the windshield and detected diffusion of light (light from rain drops causes diffusion) and would turn the windshield wipers on and would even change the wiper speed based on how hard it was raining. It didn't work very well, in fact, I turned it off...it was very annoying in that it would come on when I didn't think it was necessary and would smear the windshield or it would come on when a bug hit in the vicinity. I thought MOPAE had given up on the idea...I had actually complained about the system in one of the "Jeep Owner's Surveys". I hadn't seen the system since then and it wasn't an option on the '13 DJ line; maybe they improved the sensor and/or software and are giving it a go again. As for which models it is on, the Jeep only had them on the "highest" trim line (at that time the "Limited" line), so, that may be why the SXT version doesn't have them or your SXT didn't get the trim level added as an option; it wasn't "standard" equipment.

When you ordered the "option" of the DRLs on the 2013 model (mine, too), all that the factory did was to pre-load the "option" code (LMK) to the build information that was loaded into the BMC when it was at the factory. The hardware is all there in all models, just the code on your build sheet was necessary. For our 2013s, all that needed to be done was to add the "option" (the LMK) code, after the fact in order to make them work. For units being shipped to those countries that required DRLs in order to sell them, the factory set the LMK code at the software build point (it would also have disabled the UConnect "off" switch, again via a software script). If the DRLs are, in fact, an "option" on the 2014 models, then there must be a corresponding code, somewhere, that enables them for those countries (CA, for example) that require them (a mandatory option). From a cost perspective, I can't picture MOPAR, or any other manufacturer, going to adding hardware and changing assembly lines for the DRLs when with the modern computers, a simple software "switch" (the LMK code) would enable them at virtually no cost to the manufacturer or changes in an assembly line. Somewhere, there must be "code" that is used to enable them and, if so, then logically, that code can be added (as we did with our 2013s). Since the LMK code worked for the 2013, again, logic would say "why change something that works" for the 2014 model year, since it is basically unchanged (except for trim levels) from the 2013 model; there hasn't been a major refresh of the basic DJ for 2014. I used to do a lot of "experimenting" with the folks at my dealership (great bunch of guys; sales and service); that's how I/we found out on my 2008 Jeep Hemi Commander, that to enable the DRLs on it, we had to change the country setting to CA, start the car (the DRLs worked), stop the car, change it back to US (didn't want the metric readings) and the DRLs stayed on. It appeared on the Jeep, that the software allowed them to be enabled, but, once enabled, they couldn't be shut off. I imagine that if someone with 2014 and a dealership like mine were to try adding the LMK code that they may find that it turns the DRLs on and enables the UConnect on/off controls. Again, short of a major refresh there hasn't been a need to rewrite thousands of lines of CANbus code for the DJ (or any of the other models for that matter). With Fiat still trying to get a grip on the new company, most of the models have stayed the same for 2014 with the exception of trim levels and a few minor cosmetic changes. I'm a retired IT hardware/software Integrator, and that was how things worked (or used to; I've been retired now for 8 years), but, the cost/benefit ratio doesn't change. Code is cheap, standardized construction is cheaper (as Henry Ford demonstrated) and the combination is what is competitive.

I still have no clue as to what that box is for, but, I can't imagine MOPAR changing the antenna system from what they've been using. That AM/FM/Sirius/GPS unit (the one in the second picture) is used on all of the MOPAR vehicles and is universal in application. Just like the wiring harness, if you don't have an option, the "base" equipment doesn't really change. No fog lights on your car? The connectors are behind the bumper. No tow package? The connector for the 4 pin harness and lights is behind the rear bumper. While the control box for the GPS unit may be located under the dash or seats (there would be centralized box to provide speed, direction, and location to various devices via the CANbus), the basic receiver has to have a view of the sky...I've got many GPS devices, a lot of them portable, and if you take them inside or even under the tin roof on my deck, they no longer work...they have to be able to "see" at least 3 satellites to provide location (triangulation) and elevation (calculated by satellite azimuth). That is why the portable units have windshield mounts or, for laptops, a USB antenna that has to be placed where it can "see" the sky. It doesn't take a lot to mask a satellite's signal. Snow on my DirecTV antenna, heavy rain, even the leaves on the trees will block Sirius signals. There is zero advantage to taking the GPS receiver unit out of the roof top unit and putting it behind a sloped piece of glass that would have the metal roof deflect some satellites from reception depending on azimuth. It is possible that they moved the RF Hub from the rear interior metalwork, to the windshield, to perhaps, enhance the reception of remote start, unlock and lock, security signals, etc. Unfortunately, access, good access, to a parts listing for the 2014s has been elusive, so, I can't even troll for that windshield part in the first picture.

Haven't really thought that much about it... I have a 2013 and I don't have the box in the first picture, however, I do have GPS along with every other option except for the backseat DVD. Not sure what that box in your picture is for. I've always assumed that all the antennas (AM, FM, Sirius and GPS) were in the unit on the back of the DJ (your second picture). I have AM, FM, Sirius and GPS in my RAM truck. In the truck, the AM and FM are from a standard whip antenna on the fender while the Sirius and AFIK, the GPS, comes from an antenna plate like the DJ's minus the mast that sticks up and it is on the back of the truck's cab on the passenger side (picture the DJ's minus the conning tower and short whip antenna, just a smooth arrow shaped unit). To the best of my knowledge, the GPS is part of the Sirius antenna (the long arrow head part); a dual purpose Sirius/GPS antenna.

I suspect that they are all going to be the same with the exception of the lateral tubes that connect the receiver to the DJ's frame..."V" shaped or arched. Any hitch is going to have to clear the spare and stick out far enough for a vertical bike rack to clear that bulbous bumper. Attachment points are going to be the same, so, the "fit", too, will be the same. This will probably be your only chance at one of the old verticle style hitches...and those may be scarce, i.e., they more than likely weren't a "hot seller" (they were pricey), a lot of them may still on the road (the DJ is new enough that, for the most part, only totaled units will be in junk yards) and given that most of those are going to be totaled and half of those totaled will be from rear-end collisions, the hitch, if there, is probably bent. I don't know how many of those hitches were installed in the short duration that they were even available, but, a junk yard is likely to be your best bet.

It really isn't a viable option any longer. There was a period, a couple of years ago now, when MOPAR changed the design of the hitch. That period between the old hitch and the new ones being produced was long; a year or there abouts. During that time, everyone was screaming for a hitch for their car and I'm sure every nook and cranny was searched to try and fill the demand and I doubt that you'll find one that was "overlooked" and laying about. Now as for why they changed; the answer is strength and towing liability. As long as you used MOPAR's custom trailer hitch, things would be OK, but, as soon as someone wanted to use a bicycle rack or hitch platform, an adapter had to be used, that adapter being a right angle bar/receiver combination. As soon as the adapter is used, the tow rating of the hitch went into the dumpster; adapters reduce a hitch receiver's rating anywhere from 30 to 60% depending on the adapter type. MOPAR, legally, would have been off the hook because the hitch equipment came with such a warning (I don't have one, but, I'm sure there was some sort of "legalese" that warned of none standard usage) and the adapters would have come with the warning also, but, that wouldn't have mitigated the legal hassle and the customer dissatisfaction of having 4 bikes spread down a highway, other cars insurance companies suing because they hit said bikes, etc. or that load platform with a generator attached, bouncing merrily down the roadway. Way to cure the problem? Redesign the hitch to what you see today...the standard horizontal receiver. A known entity, very strong, many attachments designed for them and, unfortunately, butt ugly and a hazard to your shins. It isn't just a DJ issue, almost any vehicle that wasn't designed to be a tow machine (and most vehicles, the DJ included weren't designed as tow machines) have body designs that require said receiver to stick far enough out to clear the bodywork when accessories are hung from them. I've towed RVs for more years than I like to think about and boats before that, and machines that are designed to be tow machines have the bumpers and bodywork designed around the receiver so that it doesn't protrude.

I believe that this picture references the "old style" hitch. The original hitch for the DJ had a vertical receiver, most hitches and the ones currently offered for the DJ, even by MOPAR, is the standard horizontal receiver design. In the original (and the one that I like best) the receiver was vertical; the square part actually went up behind the fascia and didn't stick out at all. The problem, of course, is that most hitch accessories are not designed for that arrangement. If you closely at the picture, you can see the square shaft on the end of the trailer hitch pointing upwards behind the fascia. Made for a much cleaner looking unit when the hitch was removed (nothing stuck out to hit your shin), but, necessitated having a right angle adapter in order to use anything beside the MOPAR ball hitch. Remember a couple of years ago when everybody was up in arms because MOPAR didn't have any hitches? They were in the midst of changing the design... Now we have the standard design (horizontal receiver) and it has to stick out looking ugly and shin damaging so that bicycle carriers can clear the fat bumper.

I had to do that with my 2008 Jeep Hemi Commander... Changed the system to Canadian and then the unit would allow the enabling of the DRLs and once they were enabled via the StarScan tool, the system was changed back to the US country code changing the rest of the display off from the metric measurements and the DRLs stayed on. Was a PIA, but, it was all we could come up with after months of experimentation. I posted the process on one of the Jeep XK forums and it worked for a lot of the others there.

Agree with jkeaton... With your CEL illuminated, there is at least one code, perhaps several in your case, and that's what those codes are for; to give you a short list of what the problems may be. Again, with today's newer cars an OBD II reader is going to be your best friend; even a cheap one will do. I carry two lower cost units (one in the DJ and one in the RAM) and I have a "big 'un" for major troubleshooting (catches live data, does "exercising" of relays and sensors, outputs to computer, etc.). If you are going to try and figure out what is wrong with today's vehicles, you need one. In your case if you don't have one (yet), I'd swing by an auto parts store (AutoZone, NAPA, etc), they usually have a code reader and will either read the codes out for you or loan it to you to check them in the parking lot. Without the codes, for this type of problem, we'd be shooting in the dark since these electrical issues could be anything from a dirty connector, to a control module being toast.

Probably won't cause you any problems, however, you are most likely over-revving (passing the automatic's computer generated shift points) which will lead to wear and tear and probably lower fuel efficiency and at higher speeds, I'm not sure of the effect on the torque convertor lockup system. The car's transmission is computer controlled and takes into account the vehicle's dynamics; load, temperature, throttle position and even AWD status. That control is programmed to provide the maximum efficiency at the highest fuel efficiency. I'll probably start something here...it isn't my intention. I do, however, find it curious that after all the engineering put into today's highly efficient automatic transmissions that there are still folks that want to manually shift. It isn't just the DJ either, I belong to numerous RV forums and am amazed at the number of folks that complain about fuel mileage in one post and then brag about how they manually shift their automatics to keep the rpms high in the next. Today's automatic's are not your father's automatics. They have far more gears, locking torque convertors for several gears, not just one, a computer to control loading, driveshaft speed, shift points, fluid temperature and torque convertor lockup to maximize efficiency of both fuel and drivetrain action and transmission life; all without the driver doing anything. Yet, for some reason, some drivers feel that they can "out think" or "out perform" the vehicle's computer system. Most modern transmissions have the "manual" option, but, it wasn't intended for everyday driving; it is there for those special instances where you might need finer control of shift points where the torque is more important than efficiency or wear and tear. I've used the manual option in both the DJ and my RAM where I wanted to keep the rpm and torque high for pulling, in special circumstances, but, as soon as possible, I went back to the automatic mode. I'm old, I guess, and the rowing of gears has lost its glamor for me...I can't out think or out perform the computer manually, so, I let it do as it was designed. Like I said, I'm not trying to start anything...if you like rowing gears, by all means continue, but, it still makes me scratch my head at times.

Starter system again... You are getting power to the solenoid (that's what is making the clicking sound), but, no high amperage to the starter motor itself (needs that to spin the starter motor). If that is the starter relay clicking, then the starter interlocks (key recognition and shifter) apparently aren't the culprit. Temperature related; could be a broken wire. Heat the insulation (like from a hot engine; the starter motor wiring virtually lays on the engine) and it expands and may break a circuit, once it cools down (contracts) the wires touch again allowing it to start. Could be corrosion on any of the connections (same temperature effects). Could be the starter itself... Could be the starter relay trying to make the high amp connection and failing. You say you're not a car person nor mechanically inclined, so, much in the way of trouble shooting is moot. You could start at the starter motor and work up to the battery; check all connections to make sure they are tight (it is possible that when they worked on the starter before they didn't tighten everything) and look at the electrical connections to make sure they aren't corroded, if they are, and you have a wrench that fits, take off the nuts and clean off the corrosion. If there isn't any corrosion and the wires seem to be OK, then the next time it happens, try tapping (not pounding, but, a good solid tap) on the solenoid (mounted to the starter motor) and try it again; sometimes tapping will free a stuck pinion. Other than those "non-mechanical" checks, a shop is your best recourse. Sorry, any other suggestions I would have would involve a bit more mechanical experience, a good set of tools, and at least a VOM test meter. It isn't a major motor issue, but, just being limited to the starter system isn't a help since you have to have that working to get it to run...as you well know.

Admittedly, unsprung weight is a detriment to fuel mileage, but... I have to agree with the two posts above. If you already have the styled magnesium/aluminum alloy wheels on your DJ, you will have to spend big $$$$$ on a lighter wheel. There are materials that are lighter (carbon fibre, nano tubes, certain ceramics), but, their cost is prohibitive to automotive wheels. The best design would be a carbon fibre disk; you've seen them on racing bicycles and university "ultra high mileage" experimental vehicles. The cost is astronomical and then with a solid disk you introduce brake overheating in everyday use and handling issues due to the plate design. Couple the solid disk wheel with an "ultra low resistance" tire and you'd be in business. Of course, the tire would be very thin, only one center sipe and would not corner well or handle rain and the ride would be abysmal. You'll also notice that race cars, where mileage and handling are paramount, still use "mag" wheels - there just isn't anything better that is within reasonable cost versus return parameters for strength, brake cooling, air flow, cost and ease of manufacture. The current technology has gone about as far as is possible until costs for some of the exotic materials come down to the point where the economics of owning them would be balanced by any increase in mileage. The current "exotics" would probably result in mileage improvements measured in thousandths of mile...you'd never recoup your investment in several lifetimes. That's why you'll only see those "improved" wheels and tires on vehicles where cost is not an issue and their use is only for certain road and weather conditions just to earn a title or award for acheivement... Lightening your wheels with another "mag" wheel that is, maybe, 6 ounces lighter, would not show any measurable mileage improvement over what is currently mounted to your DJ. A DOT approved (or whatever passes for the DOT up north) tire that is rated for lower rolling resistance would be your best bet and even that, IMHO, is more an advertising gimmick as opposed to something that you could actually measure at the pump. The DJ is already designed to produce the best "mass produced" mpg available within those cost vs. results restraints...remember, the impetus now is for the industry to meet fleet "high mileage" targets; anything the industry can do to increase the mileage of their cars allows them to produce the much more in demand SUVs and trucks, typically low mileage vehicles. The DJ, itself, is a heavy vehicle and nothing you do to unsprung weight will make it a "high mileage" vehicle given the platform that rides on that unsprung weight. If a lighter wheel would make any impact on the mileage, and the cost wasn't prohibitive, it would have come from the factory with it mounted.

As I said earlier...if you want one get one. I had a 2008 Jeep Commander Hemi Limited. I did have the plenum off ... In fact the dealership tore the whole engine down (twice) trying to figure out why the engine was throwing a P013A error continuously. In the 5 years I owned that Jeep, they never did figure it out (I drove almost 158,000 miles with the check engine light on), but, in both the tear downs, the entire engine was spotless and I used that Jeep for towing a 6500 lb. travel trailer for most of those miles. In fact, the whole reason I have the DJ is the company did a "buy back" of the Jeep to maintain "good relations" with me; I've bought a lot of vehicles from that one dealership and I've only been local to him for 8 years while being a MOPAR man for as long as I can remember since my early 20's. They did right by me; took them awhile, but, they came through. As for having the plenum off my 3.8? Why would I take it off? The vehicle ran fine from the day I bought it and if it weren't for the body giving up the ghost, it would still be running (didn't burn any oil between changes the entire time I owned it). That's my point; why worry about a problem that has no impact on the purpose of owning a "people mover"? I've got a friend that has the same Jeep (his is black, mine was brick red) and he's never had any issues with his Hemi. 198,000 miles on his clock, most of them towing; so, not every Hemi is dead on the side of the road from a dirty plenum or mildly coated valves. There are many of those Hemi's on the road and I would imagine you would have to look really long and hard to find one with an oil catch can on it. I've kept many cars well past their "Best used by" dates and mileages and never (except the Chevelle I raced with) had an oil can, nor did I suffer any measurable, quantitative, engine issues regarding power or driveability. If the oil can is your answer to what you perceive as an issue, then install one. I've got a '76 Eldorado that has burnt oil on everything past the butterfly valves. Still starts, even after sitting for 10 months, on the second try and purrs like a kitten. Engines do not have to be "spotless" to achieve their purpose which is to get from point a to point b as economically as possible. IMHO, the only time a "spotless" engine will outperform another is when the final outcome of the race is measured in tenths of second, not pertinent to getting mom to the local grocery store. As I mentioned before, the oil can is a great idea, but, labor intensive for a problem that 99.99% of the population won't be affected by. A die hard racer or backyard mechanic might be inclined to add one, needed or not, as they don't mind spinning a wrench, but, the average user that is already perturbed about maintenance costs for the life of the vehicle is not apt to want to pay to have it maintained, that's the impetus behind synthetics and their longer oil change intervals. With the complexity of modern automotive equipment, there are fewer and fewer "shade tree" mechanics willing to invest the time to learn the new systems or invest the time and money in the tools and expertise needed to do the maintenance. Newer engines burn cleaner, last longer and stay cleaner than the engines of yesteryear...and they do it all with the equipment they come from the factory with. Are there things you can do to improve what the factory gives you? Sure, but, for a given purpose, the added expense above and beyond what is "standard" shows diminshing returns on the investment for most of them and added cost to the purchaser. I remember when a loaded Mercedes was "sky high" elegance at around $15,000, now you can't buy an econobox for that. I had heart failure when I put my "dream truck" together for towing my 5th wheel. $61,000+ delivered. If you start adding everything that would make the automotive system "great" or "top end", then you wouldn't be able to afford it. I'm all for you getting one, but, I'll leave my stock system alone. I get great mileage, the car starts when I want it to and takes me where I want to go and all without any additional maintenance needed by me from "add ons" that won't affect what I'm looking to get out of the vehicle. It isn't a race car and I don't expect to keep it more that 15-20 years (I may not even live that long; I'm 62 now) and my "filthy" 500 cu in engine that's 38 years old ('76 Eldorado) still runs just fine with 327,000 miles on the stock engine. None of the above is "theory"; honest to goodness wheels on the ground experience.

Do a search on this site...there is a good thread already on what you need to do. Basically, the dealership has to add the DRL option code to your VIN (Code is LMK) and then this new code group has to be flashed to your car letting the car know that you do, indeed, have DRL's and can use them. The upstart is, although you the software installed, it is part of the UConnect grouping and this doesn't work until your car knows that it does have the DRL capability through the LMK code. It is an ongoing PIA for those of us in the US market...the software is there and the hardware, actually, is there, however, until the CANBUS knows that the two exist, there isn't any communication between them and the factory does not routinely enable that communication. It would be much easier if Chrysler would just install the LMK code on all US market cars and let the owners decide whether to activate them or not (which is what most people, including the salesmen, already assume).