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Not necessarily... I have a 1989 Chrysler LeBaron Turbo and it uses regular. All depends on how much they want to push the timing. If they are doing the turbo for increased economy, not performance, I would look for reduced boost, non-extreme timing and regular gas.

Matching his pictures and the brightness, I'm going to say these are the ones he got (those in his picture certainly look like 30W bulbs). http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-H16-PSX26W-PSX24W-LED-CREE-30W-Bright-Power-Fog-Light-Bulb-Lamp-White-DRL-Low/900707343.html I'm traveling now, but, I've bookmarked the bulb for when I get back...I'm thinking they may not be quite DOT approved for fog lights (low beams, IIRC, are 35W), however, we live out in the boonies and two sets of low beams would definitely give you more light down the road...brighter than the 24's in the stock mode, but, not quite as bright as another set of low beams.

If the fluid is getting close to the "low" line, then going downhill will draw the fluid to the front of the reservoir, exposing the contacts for the sensor to the air, triggering the "Brake" light. When the car levels out, the fluid once again covers the contacts, turning the light off. It doesn't require adding fluid all the way up to the "Full" line...just enough (was ~2 ounces for me; I kept adding ~.5 ounce at a time until it stopped illuminating) to make the fluid level high enough going downhill to keep the contacts covered. The addition of a couple of ounces of brake fluid will not cause an overflow condition when putting new pads on, but, will keep the "Brake" light from coming on. We live in the mountainous area of south central PA and it took me about a week to figure out what was going on. I've since put new pads on the car and the fluid line is still just at the "Full" line, even after adding almost 2 ounces to keep the "Brake" light off.

Happened on mine... Low fluid level. The factory puts in a minimal amount of brake fluid and it doesn't take a lot of wear before going down a hill and applying the brakes to trip the brake warning light. Put in about 2 ounces of new brake fluid and no more "alerts". The brake system is not a "sealed system". The top of the master cylinder has a cap for just the purpose of adding additional brake fluid.

The maps for your vehicle are from NavTeq...they do the vast of maps for OEM nav units (and a lot of the non-OEM units as well). Here's their website (in the US): http://here.com/navteq-redirect/?lang=en-US That is the US site, it comes up automatically, I believe, based on the home ISP. I suspect, that in the UK, it will come up with the UK site. If not, at least it is where you need to start tracking down the updates for your nav system.

Quote: "No US state mandates DRLs, but some require drivers to operate vehicles with lights on in bad weather." There are quite a few states that mandate the use of headlights (on) when using windshield wipers, but, no states require the use of DRLs. More and more vehicles, with a world wide presence, however, are manufacturing their vehicles, no matter what the destination, with DRLs installed. There are also a lot of roads where a state has mandated the use of headlights (not DRLs) on certain roads or in certain areas, and many states now require the use of headlights (again, not DRLs) in construction zones. In most circumstances, DRLs will get you by the headlight requirement, but, an LEO, if so inclined, can stop you since DRLs, technically don't meet the headlights "on" requirement. There is still no requirement, by the US government, for their mandatory inclusion on new vehicles. As more and more of the companies with a world-wide presence include them to reduce model differences (streamlines design and production if they are all the same), I suspect that the US will become a defacto location where DRLs will be the norm and not the exception. Already, I believe, GM, Volvo, SAAB, Subaru, Volkswagon and, now, even Mercedes includes them on the vehicles for the US market. Another reason, why Dodge making them even more difficult to "turn on" than they were on my 2013, a bizarre twist by a manufacturer, especially with Fiat's (another producer for the world-wide market) involvement in the corporate mindset.

Ditto... Our '13 (ordered in '12) also came with a front bracket, also in the back with the cargo net and the trailer hitch harness. It's in the bottom of the workshop, someplace, as PA doesn't require a front plate. I hang onto them though for when my son gets the car as a "hand me down", he lives in MD and they do have a front license plate.

This is from my owner's manual... E-85 Flexible Fuel – 3.6L Engine Only CAUTION! Only vehicles with the E-85 fuel filler door label or a yellow gas cap can operate on E-85 Mine has neither a door label or a yellow gas cap. I had also asked at the dealership before I ordered the car... "I don't want FlexFuel, does the car automatically come with it or can I order it without" and was told that my '13 would not be FlexFuel. He didn't say whether they weren't making them (Journeys) in '13 with FlexFuel or whether he would order it without. In either case, my DJ is 87 octane or 87 E10...no E85 for me! B)

Mine does the same. I'll take a WAG and say that it is to unload the drivetrain; disconnect the torque converter and the engine doesn't have to fight the driveline while stopped. Probably yields better mileage (the idle up to keep engine idle stable and fight the drive train is probably ~200 rpm) and it will keep transmission temps down. I don't worry about it and I've never relied on the auto transmission (or manuals when I drove them) to hold a vehicle on a hill. Stop on a hill; keep foot on brake. Want to go off a hill; release my foot off the brake and apply gas. I equate it with the fuel savings some cars are trying to get when the shut down completely at a stop light...that still strikes as very disconcerting, I like my cars to keep running so that if I have to "make a quick get-away", I don't have to wait for the darned thing to restart...

Definitely agree, and hence the reason, I'll never own a "Flex Fuel" vehicle. I'm one of those, by personal preference and economic/scientific evidence, that still believes that corn belongs on the table, either as the vegetable/grain/oil itself, or suitable feed for animals for consumption, and not subsidized and put in a gas tank for less power, higher cost, more maintenance issues and dubious benefits to our oil importation problems.

I'm not sure the breaking down of Ethanol plays much of a role... From experience, I have two antique cars; a 1976 Cadillac Eldorado and a 1989 Chrysler LeBaron Turbo that is factory custom (options not available on the 1989 LeBaron) and both are only run once a year, so the gas sits for years before I run it low enough to "fill up". Both use Ethanol fuel (the only fuel available in my area) and I've never had an issue, and I don't use any Stabil like additive. The last time I got gas for the Cadillac was in 2010 (36 gallon tank) and the last time I got gas for the LeBaron was in 2012... For most folks, the breakdown of Ethanol is a non-issue. It does break down and it is hydrophillic, but, over a long period of time, not a matter of weeks or months. Today's cars are designed to use Ethanol; all of the seals are designed to handle it and the vehicle is engineered to use a certain octane (regular 87, certainly not 91). Using a higher octane or paying more for non-Ethanol fuel is just flushing your money down the drain. If I had an older car, like the 1962 Avanti R2 that I've got my eye on, then non-Ethanol fuel becomes more of an issue since the rubber parts in its fuel system isn't designed for the corrosive effects of Ethanol and the valves are not designed for lack of lead as a coolant.

I wish my R/T had come with them...in '13, the R/T had their own "special" wheels; the same ones that look, now, like something off a Yugo on mine... I'll probably get a set from my dealer next spring to replace the POS wheels that I've got.

Sweet. Looks just like the wheels that were on my Commander...

I had "chrome clad" (high grade option) on my '08 Jeep Commander Hemi Limited...loved those wheels and may buy some of the clad wheels for my DJ. This past winter, the state (PA) used a lot, and I mean a lot, of anti-skid on the roads. Low and behold, my "special" R/T wheels are now peppered with dings in the finish (looks like some shot each spoke with a shotgun) and Dodge won't cover "road hazard" damage to the wheels. Never had that issue with the clad wheels on the Jeep and that is with 5 years of off-roading on them. Don't know why some don't like them...in my personal experience, they stayed bright, they didn't damage and they looked as good after 5 years as the day I drove the Jeep off the lot. As for the DJ clad wheels. The cladding does not come off; they are not hubcaps, but, are an integral part of the wheel. Take the lug nuts off, dismount the wheel, done. The cladding is most definitely not a "hub cap". No different than the chrome on a bumper; it is a part of the material underlayment, but, as opposed to a chrome bumper, the chrome cladding (and the wheel under it) will never rust, chip or flake off. That is why they cost more than "just" a chromed wheel.

Yes, there is a latch...I remember looking at it when we bought our '13. It is quite robust, too. I guess they don't want it flying open in the event of a collision. I haven't looked at mine close enough to see how to open it if the pull tab gets ripped off, but, there should be some way to access the latch (just like there is for the passenger front seat). If the suggestion from Milous doesn't work, I'll try to get out to mine or look in the service manual to see if there is another pathway to the latch for the service folks.

If you sit in the seat, you'll notice that there is a space between the headrest and the back of your head. In a severe enough accident, that space can turn into an impact zone and serious injury by impact (concussion) or whiplash. The new headrests are designed to deploy and give your head nowhere to go; your head gets "sandwiched" between the new style head rest deployment and the air bags (the one in the steering wheel and the curtain back in the upper rail). Very similar to the system first used and, now improved, by the NASCAR racing circuit. They even go so far as to strap the driver's helmets to the headrest/cradle so that they can't move away from it. Concussive blows to the head are just now being recognized for how much more serious they are than what was believed in my "younger days" (pre-dinosaur if you ask my son...).

I think what most people are annoyed about are two things... Why have software to control something when not only is it not there, there isn't any way to get it. Most every "option" whether ordered from the factory or not, can be dealer installed. Don't have the oil cooler? The dealer will be happy to charge you for it and install it. Don't have the luggage rack? Again, the dealer will be more than happy to install it for you (for a fee). Don't have the custom wheels? Order them from the dealer. Want DRLs? You're SOL. That's what most people are upset about. I don't think most want them for free, but, they are being told that there is absolutely no way to get the stock DRLs. Whether you like them or not, whether you think the aftermarket looks better, the fact of the matter is that if for some reason you a) didn't know that option was available when you ordered your car b)you bought from dealer stock but want to "upgrade" your purchase or c) you just plain thought that they came with the ability (and they do), there is, apparently, no way after the vehicle leaves the assembly line to have them installed. Evidently, the only thing on the car that can't be installed/fixed/replaced after the car leaves the building. As for aftermarket, as opposed to stock, I'll take stock. If for some reason I want them off; I turn them off or on via UConnect. The stock look fully integrated to the car (they are). Aftermarket units will always look like "aftermarket" additions since they aren't vehicle specific and they have to be added to the vehicle in places that don't look "designed in". Aftermarket also requires some knowledge of wiring to get them installed properly and with the CANBus, there is always the chance that you can place a load on a monitored line that the system isn't set for and whatever splices you make are subject to weathering and faults. There are also many folks out there that want DRLs, but, don't know which end of wire stripper to hold, let alone how to find a "hot only when running" wire that is bundled up in the wiring harness wraps or how to tap into the power distribution block without melting down the whole bus or how to get them mounted so that they aren't dragging the ground or hanging by their wires after the first freeze or rain. The stock DRL is built in; nothing to fudge, nothing to kludge and if there is a problem with them, the dealer will take care of them under warranty. Yes there appears to be a lot of "angst" and I suspect as more "new" buyers find out they may have been hoodwinked by Dodge (I think they have been based on my reasoning in the first paragraph), there will be new folks wringing their hands and wondering whether anything new has been found for getting them to work. Short of locking the thread, folks are going to be coming here and venting (that's a forum's number one use; whether that is the intention or not). I, fortunately, have a '13 and got mine working. I don't come back to this thread often, but, I do "check in" sometimes just to see if anything's changed. If you aren't interested in the thread, you can always just skip it... For those of you that want your DRLs activated, I hope, that through enough customer pressure, something may, eventually, be done for you. I don't think a law suit is the way to go, but, I'm not into the "sue'em" type mentality, but, maybe enough email complaints to the corporate office will get something moving for you.

I still maintain that there is a certain amount of BS coming out of Dodge concerning this. The 2013 merely needed the LMK code, there is no substantial difference between the 2013, 2014 and 2015. It evidently has had a code change that prevents the simple adding of the LMK code, however, the fact remains that, essentially, the same car, in Canada has the DRLs activated. Obviously there is a way to activate them at some point in assembly since they roll off the same line. If they can be "turned on" at the factory, there must be a way to get them "turned on" after the fact. Whether that is something that Dodge wants to admit, that is a different story. Has anyone actually ordered the DRL option and had them work? If Dodge is going to stick to the "no way Jose" line, then it behooves them to remove the coding from the UConnect software, since if the only way you can DRLs is if they are mandatory, and being mandatory, you can't turn them off, then there is no reason to have the on/off coding for the DRLs in the software. They should either make the DRLs operative, or, quit advertising them as an option and remove the on/off selection from the UConnect system.

Yep, normal. I've got the same access hole in my '13 R/T. Can't be seen unless you are looking for it. I didn't get right up and look closely at it, but, the way it is cut out and I can see some mechanicals in there, it probably exists for adjusting something...possibly a shifter cable or the PRNDL lockout system. I can understand why they didn't spend money on a "plug" cover for it as you have to get down with your head almost at floor level to see it at all.

Had the same issue (twice) with my '13 R/T. After a lot of experimenting, at home and at the dealership (I get along very well with them; we're all good country boys :-), we found that where I hung the keys by the door was too close to the car. It sensed the fobik and kept all of the electronics active waiting for a command of some sort instead of letting the electronics go to sleep. I started keeping the keys in the bedroom, more than 15' away from the car, and have had no further issues concerning the dead battery syndrome...car goes to sleep and the battery stays good to go. According to the research done by the dealership, the Journey should be able to last 3-4 weeks in "sleep mode" before the battery starts to go, but, when in standby, the count goes to a day, two days, maybe three depending on the base charge state of the battery at that time. When they are shipped from the factory, they are shipped in a "Transport Mode" that isolates the electronics from the battery and once the vehicle gets to the dealership, the shop turns off the transport mode to put the vehicle on the sales lot. Some vehicles, they said, that were going to be on the lot for awhile are left in the transport mode until someone wants to test drive them at which time the electronics would be activated again. They showed me the process on the car and the instructions for activation and de-activation on their StarScan device. It requires the simultaneous pushing of several buttons on the dash, but, though I wrote the process down, I can't remember where I put them...

Bunch of problems with the concept. Your phone, most likely, is not designed to port a static or live image of its desktop apps screen...possibly by mini-HDMI, but, I'm not aware of a phone with one of those ports; tablets, yes, but, phones, not likely. Even if you could find an app that would send such an image (either capture or live) via Bluetooth or USB, the UConnect software doesn't have the codex to handle that input. The UConnect doesn't clone your phone, it is designed to operate the phone functions (call, answer, etc.) via Bluetooth, but, it doesn't even read the contacts list; it downloads it to its temporary memory where it resides until you turn the car off. Perhaps, in the future, that capability (cloning your phone completely, including apps) will be out there, but, current tech is having trouble just handling Messaging...UConnect doesn't even do that, but, I think Ford's MS version in their system can. There is also a whole host of issues with the complete cloning of a cell phone; security and safety being the foremost of them. If it could clone your phone, what's to prevent you from viewing the latest television show or football game while cruising down the road? So... Short answer: No To be honest, for the security and safety reasons, I hope that technology never does make it to the car's front seat. Even with hands free telephone use, there are IMO, far too many distractions for the driver now and while, even I, curse a bit when I have to stop the car to make a major route change on the Nav screen, I can understand and applaud the software designers for that safety feature.

A good idea for this and any other instance where there is a questionable failure and there are multiple units that can be swapped around. If it (the problem) moves, then that's the culprit, if it doesn't, then it is back to square one. Beats the "shotgun" method where you pick a piece and hope that it is the problem.

I had an initial problem with the battery in my '13 R/T... Went out to use the car and found the battery dead. It was only 3 months old at that time. It would, however, take a charge, but, that wasn't a "cure". Out here in the country, you rely on your vehicles and the dead battery syndrome is not conducive to a warm fuzzy feeling and having the problem twice within a month was a real hit. After some investigating on the problem (nothing the dealer could find; charging system was fine, battery was fine, all systems normal) we found that where I hung my keys, right next to the door and only about 8' from the car was keeping the whole car active since it sensed the FOB. Dead of winter was enough drain in itself and keeping the unit "live" for a couple of days was enough to kill it. I moved my keys further away and haven't had any problems since...still using the same OEM battery the car came with.

Always check my fluids twice a month, minimum, although I must admit the TPMS has me spoiled...just go to the EVIC to get the latest pressures for an "eyeball" on the actual pressure of each tire. I change my oil once a year or sooner if the unit tells me to. The first EVIC notice on mine came after 9,300 miles. It comes on once per year, usually after 8500-9200 miles. I live out in the boonies so a "short drive" for me is 34 miles, usually 50-150 miles for stores/shopping. No "stop and go" short trips, so I get much longer life. I've had my oil tested (years ago) when I had the Hemi Commander and I've come to trust the EVIC system. The oil tests actually indicated that I was good to go for even longer, but, the EVIC warning is what I use, as it comes on with a frequency I can live with and I know from previous testing that the oil is still good at that point.

Well, in the basic trim, you'll need the switch, the ambient lighting detector (IIRC, the little knobby thing near the centerline on the dash very close to the windshield) and then once those are wired in (and that is assuming the wire harness has the connectors; likely since it is cheaper to standardize wiring harnesses) you would still need to have the BCM flashed with a new options list for your vehicle that would have the option for automatic headlights (LMGS on my '13 R/T) added to it.