probak118

4-5 year old topic....not sure you will get a reply ?

Ken 2010, I also removed the actuator motor & arm from the bend door connection and tested. Verifying manually that the door physically moves freely all the wat in both directions and closes / opens fully. The actuator as mentioned by someone here, re-calibrated itself, might want to try that too ?

Not to get off topic but, thanks for reminding me how much I also miss those motorized tilt out windows.

This was a great option on the vehicle when the boys in the back started to act up. They sat there quietly after activating that option LOL As mentioned lower the rear windows and generally solves that problem.

https://www.classaction.org/jeep-wrangler-air-conditioning-heater-lawsuits After trying different things plus, confirming the operation of all duct door and actuator motors in my 2012 DJ I was stumped. I even checked the temperatures of the heater core inlet and outlet hoses, although not the same they were within 10 - 20 f of each other it appeared. I had already had the heater core and coolant changed three years ago. So I went and talked to a friend who works at the tech help centre at one of the big 3. He knew immediately what the issue probably is, casting sand from the motor cylinder from the manufacturing process is breaking away and plugging part of the heater core. The bottom part which just so happens to direct heat to the passenger side of the cabin. honestly I have never heard of the this issue, but am told is affects all first generation 3.6 L Penstar motors. He said, the dealer when having to replace a heater core will try to do an aggressive extended flush to try and remove as much of this residual sand as possible then install the new heater core. But does not get all the sand out, it will eventually happen again. One thing to inspect is the coolant resevoir bottle for a thin sludge type layer forming on the inside of the bottle, that is a giveaway that the fine sand is now moving around the coolant. Sorry if I am beating a dead horse, but this was news to me. I stumbled across this link above when I googled casting sand plugging heater core, information on a class action for us dodge owners, it seems the jeep wrangler owners already won some sort of settlement. If nothing else I now know probably what the reason for my no heat on passenger side, but the fix is keep changing heater core.....BS !

I think 2Late4u is on the right track, door seal, rather than a plugged door drain, give the seal a good look over for cuts, pieces missing or is there a seam there where the two door seal ends come together that has come apart a little ? Have you looked if door hinge has moved a little bit due to loose bolts ? Is there a air whistle as you drive ? Sometimes all it takes is a little push on the top back corner of the door ( window frame ) corner to bend it just enough to get a seal again, body guys do this all the time but not in front of the owner LOL. Maybe stop at a local body shop, takes 30 seconds, a quick look would cost you a coffee at the most. Keep us posted.

Thought I saw something on this site about how to re-calibrate actuators....do a search here or google that.if these do not work. Here are copies and pasts from another thread. Posted June 30, 2020 found this on goggle dont know if it really works ..good luck............... Blend Door Actuator Motor Calibration Turn ignition key to the on position and turn on the HVAC system. Move the key to the off position. Open hood (bonnet for the RHD guys) and locate fuse #15 in the fuse box next to the battery. Remove the fuse and wait 1-2 minutes for any capacitive charges in the system to dissipate. Replace the fuse. Turn the ignition key to the on position. You can now watch the motors move as the system goes through the calibration routine. Leave the key on for a couple of minutes to make sure that the calibration routine is completed before turning it off. You will also be able to hear additional activity as all the doors and fan speed are calibrated. You may have to run the cal routine a couple of times to get the system back to full functionality. If the position of the new door is significantly different from the point at failure, the system will successively move toward the new correct position setting. It may take two or three cycles for the system to move to the correct position. Quote Report post Posted June 30, 2020 THank you. I also had seen this when scouring for information but it seemed like it applied to too many vehicles to be real. I guess I'll have to give it a try anyway! Thanks! Report post Posted June 30, 2020 hope it works and maybe some one else will chime in on this,it has been discussed quite a bit on replacing one but cant remember anyone talking about it had to be calibrated Quote Report post Posted June 30, 2020 Following up here. I think this is the easiest way to "calibrate" the new actuator manually: Connect the actuator to the power connector, and just let it hang loosely. Turn on the car. Turn the heat all the way up on the climate control. This will trigger the actuator to go to "hot". Manually figure out how the blend door arm needs to be do deliver hot air (the arm needs to be all the way up and you can use your hand to get it there). Turn the car off. You now know that the climate control, the actuator and the air door are set to "hot". The arm connected to the actuator itself will need some guess and check to make sure that its in the up- most position when you install it and tighten the three screws. Once installed, turn the car back on and slowly turn the heat down to test the placement of the actuator arm. Once turned all the way down to cool, the cool air should be coming from the vents. There's probably a way that the dealership could have done this electronically, but this worked fine for me. I hope it helps someone else. Thank you!

Sure do look close to factory, looks good.

Ok educate me, air bleeder valve where is that located ? When I changed mine a year ago I simply removed the pressure cap on the reservoir bottle cranked the heat and let it run until it circulated. watched bubbles escaping thru the reservoir bottle. After googling, I answered my own questions thanks something I did not do, must have got lucky.

link does not work for me ?

I had same issue, warm air on drivers side cold on passenger side; even front windshield defrost was that way ? My temperature adjustments ( drivers and passenger ) controls are just colour ranges not actual temperature readouts. My temperature actuator arm seemed to move in increments as a would hit the red up arrows or blue down arrows. the actuator did not move automatically from one extreme to the other. As you said left of glove box. The other two actuators, far left changed the modes ( defrost / floor / dash ...etc) and right of glove box was the recirculation actuator. All mine worked as I would have hoped, I then fully closed the driver side (2) panel vent doors and more heat came from the passenger side two vents. I then opened both driver side panel vents , just opened from the lock closed positions, slightly opened. Now, all (4) vents are blowing warm air and vents are blowing what seems like equal volumes of air . Who knows why, having these differences in settings from driver to passenger sides does the trick but in my case it solved the issue ? Give it a try, who knows, what can it hurt?

Think problem solved. My 2012 does not have the the split fan speed / auto button ,only on / off speed control. I removed glove box and verified all three actuator & motors are working and doors move fully in both directions. Verified the circulate button opens and closed that door. I watched as changing both sides temperature settings also move an actuator in both directions. No change, cooler air on passenger side of the car still. Went into my dads DJ and felt how warm and even all his vent temperatures were. Noticed his vent door settings are all near the middle and I have mine locked all in the fully open positions. I took my driver side vents off locked fully open and put those two at just off the closed barely open maybe 1/4 open. Now, all vents are blowing equal air and passenger side vents are blowing hot too. Took car for a ride in -3 C just now with only the dash vents on, no fogging I did not have to blast the defrost anymore. Hope this gives those with fogging another option to try.

Posted September 23 (edited) The AC will come on automatically based on humidity levels in the cabin. Even if turned off in the manual mode, the AC system will remain active to prevent fogging. This is normal and explained in your owners manual. Edited September 23 by jkeaton My recirculation button does not come on now, only flashes 3-5 times and stops. Windows fogging and need to keep defrost / defrost blend with floor on all the time. no heater core leak that was changed about two years ago, will change electric humidity sensor behind mirror and hope jkeaton is right . What are the odds, recent topic discussions and now I noticed this issue. Will update after the part is changed.

Sorry for bringing up an old thread but I might now have an issue with this ? When I push the recirculation button the light simply flashes 4-6 times then shuts off again. If this humidity sensor is not working this may answer the question of why I am having a tough time keeping the side windows from fogging. Anyone else have this issue and fixed the issue by changing this sensor mounted behind the mirror ?

As yyz said, to verify your not stuck in the recirculate mode watch and listen for recirculation door to flip open / close as you push the recirculation button. Last night I tried turning on the button to close fresh air but it flashes then shuts off, it will not flip closed the door when heat is on ( to stop moist cabin air only issue I assume ? ). Obviously then you will need the AC to be on to use the fresh air / recirc button, to test, I previously verified mine operates but still have same issues generally. Wonder, do those having dual ( front & rear ) controls have the same issues as those of us having only front console controls with fogging of door windows ?

Would leaving the front defrost button activated not override the other options like floor, front panels etc ? It just seems to me when defrost is on, all air is directed only to that output; no floor / front panel heating. Maybe I am wrong, going to have to test that out next cold day.

Nice job bignosedog, congratulations on the man card bonus star LOL I am sure the attached picture will also help others know they can tackle this themselves and save an hour extra in mechanic labour cost.

Would the VIN not provide a parts supplier all the needed info to verify you get the proper size ? Or, take the VIN to a dealer and they could tell you the size required

Have a can of penetrating spray handy and soak and sit a little while - the nut and long bolt that holds the battery in place. Mine was pretty rusted, had to use an air gun and extensions from up top.

By re-assembling them to me means you corrected an original assembly issue perhaps ? I cant see simply how switching break pad positions making any difference alone, they don't have designated positions. Does not matter now, issue fixed, glad to hear it.

Just my $ 0.02 Wheel bearings to me seem more of a steady low hummmm noise when a constant cruising speed Tensioner pulley / alternator pulley more of a ticking / grind noise as bearings are moving around - open the hood you will know where the noise is from immediately Grinding sure sounds like brake parts, is there a chance you re- installed the brake pad clips backwards, been there and done that. The little tab is pointing towards the rotor and just rubbing it ? i heard a soft grind and noticed a fine line starting on the rotor, turned the clip around, problem went away. just something else to verify.

No clue but, I'll ask; why do you want to remove that panel ? All it does is keep your kids dirty boots / shoes from staining the back of the seat .

You do have some time from what I hear, but just what I am was told but; once your hear the hum.....you know it is always there. It is not a difficult job but it is a physical job, a lot of banging with a hammer , slide hammer, lots of penetrating fluid and maybe blunt chisel. The hub is rusted in place basically and needs to be broken free. I friend told me he uses the power steering ( pressure it generates) to break the hub free ? I assume he removes the large hub nut and four backing nuts then, puts tire back on and some how jam something on back side of tire and turns wheel left and right to break hub free ????? Not sure really but would be easier than swinging a hammer a hundred times. I changed both sides to be safe, sorry to hear about your son, if I lived close to you we would help you out for sure. hopefully some neighbours will lend you the muscle needed. If you watch a couple youtube videos I am sure with some muscle helping you could do it. hope everything goes well.

Replaced both rear wheel bearing hubs this morning with SKF not the MOOG brands. Again heavy pounding, slide hammer, and plenty of penetrating spray involved. the OEM hubs removed had a dust type cover on the back sides but none on the replacements. so, we removed from the OEM and silicone them on the installed SKF. seemed just the right thing to do, maybe not needed but we did. see attached images. Used one minute gasket material to hold cap in place and sprayed rubber sealant to seal the edges of the installed dust cap. there was no way of this dust cap being installed to the hub like the OEM hub. Is it possible the hub is universal and could be used on a AWD also ?

Would you not hope / think there was the option of turning park assist off manually ? You know like how you can auto door locks, arming horn beeps etc...