onecrazyfoo4u

I'm sure it would be an improvement. It wouldn't hit any harder if you use the stock amp, but it could at least sound cleaner I'm sure. Has anyone swapped out the stock sub for a better brand? Also, what ohm rating would the sub need to be to hook up to the stock amp? 2, 4, or 8 ohm?

I would like to swap out the stock sub in the back with something that's better. That would help out in the bass department I'm sure...even if it uses the stock amp. Has anyone done this? It's an 8" sub isn't it?

Have you gone under settings and activated the auto climate control feature? I think that has to be turned on for it to remote start with heat/defrost defaulted to on. Mine works just fine, heat/defrost in the winter and max A/C in the summer. Love the remote start settings!

Just an update, I've been using mobile 1 for every change, with a mopar filter. No complaints here, not a single drop burnt (and I'm at 16,500 miles now). I changed it at 4k miles, 8k miles, and 16k miles...and plan to change it every 8k miles from here on out (basically just whenever the oil reminder goes off). Would definitely recommend it to anyone!

Definitely need a how to. I've never been a part of a car forum without one!

How much was the whole setup?

That storage bin in the back is mighty small to try to fit a sub. How big is the factory sub? I was thinking maybe replace it in the same location and add an external amp to it.

So are you saying instead of running RCA's (since we can't with our stock deck), you can just tap the RCA's wires into the speaker +/- outputs? I've never heard of doing this before...

I'm confused why you would need to tap into the speaker wiring? Installing an external sub/amp is all extra wiring that you have to run from the battery/radio back to the the trunk of the car. You'll need to run a fused power wire from the battery, the remote turn on from radio itslef, RCA cables to the radio, and ground the amp somewhere in the trunk area.

Lol, what made you go with a Kia over an updated Journey model?

What the freak, they're not even real chrome! They're plastic! I bet they didn't realize that and feel like super big idiots when they find out.

Well done, too loud for my taste though.

Alright, I understand that. Just making sure people don't see this and head to the dealer for a new remote battery!

You seriously go to the dealer and wait around to replace a battery??? Its $0.50 and 30 seconds of time...

I just did a road trip to vegas and got 27mpg on the way there with a decent tail wind the whole way. Got 26mpg on the way back. I have the 3.6l. Definitely great mileage for a decent size SUV. I love it!

Man, there comes a point when you just need to replace the brakes on your own with your own cash. It's only a few hundred bucks for some good quality rotors/pads. STOP USING THE CRAPPY OEM BRAKES!! My plan is to just replace the front rotors/pads soon with wagners. Why continue to waste your time at the dealer using crappy oem parts? Even if it is covered under warranty, wasting 4-6hours at the dealer each visit would cost me more in work hours missed than just replacing them with my own parts that will last years. That's my opinion on the matter at least.

I now have a theory that it's state dependent. I went to Nevada these past couple days and filled up at 2 different gas stations. And both times it hit full (for the first time since I've owned the car)! I noticed the gas nozzles look slightly different too. So maybe the California gas nozzels are differently designed and screw with our ventilation system??

I've never had to slowly fill the last few gallons on any of my past 10+ vehicles owned. You just latch the fuel nozzle and let it click off on it's own and you have a full tank. No manual input required. Has the fix still not come out? 2 months late now...

Now I'm wondering what other people go with (that decide to not deal with the dealer crappy OEM brake pads/rotors). Do you guys go with ceramic or semi-metallic pads?

Mine is filled with nitrogen, no problems. My hand gauge is usually 1-2psi off from the TPMS system. Not sure which one is more accurate though.

Aren't ceramic pads the standard for the DJ? I thought you had to get ceramic pads? I thought they were better than organic pads anyways?

I can't imagine that LED fog lights would be very bright or usable. I guess you'd be fine if you're just trying to color match to HID headlights. Wouldn't you want to do HID's instead? Probably close to the same price.

Yeah, you can usually get 30-40% off and free shipping from Advanced Auto Parts. Should be pretty cheap to do the front rotors/pads by yourself with good quality parts. That's my plan. I hate having to deal with the dealership and wait 6 hours everytime I go in for them to check on anything. Last time I went in it was 5 hours and they came back and gave the usual "cannot replicate problem" with the warped rotors shimmying at lower speed stops. I'll just wait until I can't take it anymore then spend the $150-200 on new front brakes. Off topic - does anyone know if you need a special tool to push the front brake caliper piston back in (to put the new pads in)? Or can you just use a c-clamp to push them in like other vehicles?

Ditto. There's plenty of vehicles out there with 19's on them. Won't be hard/expensive at all to find tires for them when the time comes. Luckily I have a couple years hopefully as I'm only at 11k miles on the stock tires.

How the freak does it continue on as a Dart? The Dodge Dart is a little car, not a crossover/SUV...