onecrazyfoo4u

So what made you trade in for the Acadia? We looked at one when we were DJ shopping, but you just couldn't get that many options in the GMC/Chevy for the same price as the DJ. Plus the gas mileage is worse in the Acadia.

Sounds like you found out the hard way why the previous owner traded it in so soon!

That's why it's just easier to pay a couple hundred bucks and replace all 4 rotors/pads with a different (non-oem) parts. That's what many people on here do with excellent results. It saves you money and time from having to deal with stupid dealer shenanagins. Plus you're getting better parts. You get them replaced at the dealer you'll have the same problem in the future. Replacing crap parts to begin with, with the same crap parts will only give you crap in the end.

Welcome, and congrats on a great purchase. We are at 80k miles almost on our 2012 and it's been a flawless (for the most part) vehicle to own!

I think that's the exact same setup I ordered and put on about a year ago. Although it was about $190 when I did it all. Prices have gone down a bit!

I find it hilarious that Dodge charges $500 extra for the stupid chrome clad wheels. I fell for the trick too and didn't notice until I had signed all paperwork. Otherwise I would've switched for the 19" alloy REAL wheels. Pathetic what companies are doing these days. Never again will I fall for it!

Yeah but how awesome would it be to have 150+ more HP!

You push the ignition ON button. First push goes to accessory, second push goes to ON. Then push the accelerator pedal 3 times. Then push the ignition button to off.

You might hear some power steering screaching/whine on startup when it's cold outside. Just top it off to full (or have the dealer do it). Not going to hurt anything (except maybe your ears!).

For my ddm setup, I had to plug the oem harness into the capacitor backwards...the + and - are opposite on my HID system. After that everything worked great.

Geez, at that point I would almost hope for them to just write it off and get you a new vehicle. Especially after 3 accidents! Good luck to you; you may need it!

How did you find that? I checked my 2012 manual last night and it only goes up to 104,000 miles, then ends.

I think most everybody has a wifi router nowadays. If they interfered with vehicles there would be MANY MANY more complaints!

Did they mention any metal shards or shavings in the old fluid? I'd be interested to know if there were alot of deposits (which could signal a much larger problem).

Maybe try your other fob? Could just be a low battery in your current fob (even though it's new). I cannot imagine a wireless router would cause interferance with the vehicle... The lights/horn are supposed to go off with just the key opening it...that's kind of the design of the system.

Yeah, so the little rubber liner that's in the storage area under the touchscreen...pull it up then flip it around and push it back down in. Now you'll have a ~2" lip sticking out that's very sturdy. I put my phone on that sideways, and it leans back against the console under the screen. Maybe I should just take a picture lol. Good spot for the radar detector; that's where I put mine on a little no slip pad.

There's something terribly wrong if you have buildup and debris in your fluid so soon. I'm at 76k miles now on my 2012 and still get the occasional clunk going from park to reverse or drive. I'll probably get my fluid changed out soon since it's been through 2 hard/hot summers and some towing. I think the manual says only change it at 60k if it's a frequent towing vehicle or police vehicle, etc. The manual actually doesn't say when to change it for normal conditions; which is very odd.

If you flip the little tray below the screen around (if you have the 4.3" screen), it makes a perfect little holder for your phone. It's got a little ridge to stop it from slipping off. I've used it like that for 2 years now without a problem, and it's free! If your radar detector is there, it isn't doing much good. Radar detector need to have good line of sight out the front and rear windows. I have my radar on the dash above the touch screen. It's sitting on a little $1 no slip pad you can find on ebay or wherever.

Okay cool, thanks! That's interesting that the glossifier coating makes it match better. You would think it would be just the flat black plastidip coating to match the best. Did you use glossifier on the grill too?

I haven't seen the lower part of the front bumper painted black; I like it. Does it separate from the rest of the bumper or is it molded in? Did you just plasti dip it? Seems to match the rest of the stock black on the bumper good.

I guess it just depends on the manufactorer. My Nissan turbo was a boss. Never had a single problem running 18psi and abusing the heck out of it. Then again that was on 15 year technology/parts. Must be the fact that everything is made in China nowadays contributing to poor build quality.

You can get mopar all the colors on ebay for about $10-11 with free shipping. This for example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-new-oem-factory-touch-up-paint-tube-Chrysler-Jeep-Dodge-passenger-minivan-/161454423939?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25976eff83&vxp=mtr

Thank you for the help. I'll just stick with the paint only then. Thanks!

What do you mean by this? The color pen has clearcoat included? So no need to get the extra clear coat pen?

How big of a scratch are you talking? If it's small (just a few inches max) I personally would try using the paint pen first. It's only $10-15 and is worth a shot. If it looks like crap afterwards, then it can always be repaired professionally.