Destination

I put yellow covers on my '11 for a different look. I like it. $17 shipped.

ya, I put in a K&N in my '11 3.6l, and there is no seat of the pants power feeling, mileage increase or sound increase. The only plus is I can clean it and replace it.

I've been at 16-17mpg lately combined.

nope, nothing. Modifications to the airbox certainly would, but just dropping in a K&N did nothing for sound, driveability or mpg.

ya my last car, a Mazda 5 cost $200 to have a new key fob programmed. It's a bummer for sure.

I'm getting 16/23 lately.

there's no beating a Subaru in crappy conditions. We have a Forester too, but the Journey is very close. I am quite pleased with it's abilities and I'm only using the stock Kumhos. The first test was the huge Halloween storm we got - 18" of snow, and trecherous conditions. I was driving from Pittsfield, MA to central CT during that storm. I felt safe the whole way.

I put a K&N in my 2011 3.6, but did not remove that "extension" thingy b1pig mentioned. No difference in noise or mpg.

I notice no difference with the filter. No change in sound. No change in mpg. So basically I have a lifetime air filter that I can clean.

that's cool. Thanks for posting.

does Canada have a lemon law? Here in CT, after 30 days in the shop for the same issue, you're entitled to have the car bought back.

I might do this mod too if someone figures out how. I did it to my last two cars, but with the advice of the respective forums.

oooo, that looks promising.

gas mileage (3.6 V6) not so great on mine - in city I'm getting about 13-14 mpg, combined I'm getting about 16-17 mpg. Best mileage I've seen so far is after filling up next to the highway on-ramp, and driving for two hours on highway, I saw 27 mpg to next off ramp. But that was a steady decrease in elevation, which helped I'm sure.

I will probably be the last guy on earth to switch to synthetic oil. I don't know why I am so resistant. Maybe someday I will. I'll update this thread after a few months of experience with the K&N.

K&N finally updated their website, and there is a filter available for the 3.6 V6 now. It is a different p/n than for the 4 cyl so I'm glad I waited. I ordered one yesterday, it was $49 including shipping.

thanks folks.

finally found a place to do the stripes. Autobody shops were not interested unless they cleared the entire side of the car. I thought that was extreme. So I asked a sign shop to do it, and they were very enthusiastic. Came out great. I'm quite pleased. I also put Lamin-X on the fog lights:

Honda makes some, available on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B00383T62O and this teflon bicycle detailer is what I'm using lately: http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10052&langId=-1&catalogId=10551&productId=1091224&utm_source=Commission_Junction&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=datafeed&PID=2187177&cm_mmc=CJ-_-9223372036854775807-_-2187177-_-Finish+Line+Pro+Detailer+Showroom+Polish+and+Protectant this doesn't have Teflon but works almost as well: http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&cId=SEARCH&productId=3027532&cm_mmc=SCE_gps-_-gps-_-gps-_-Meguiar%27s%20Quik%20Detailer&CAWELAID=1023651730

maybe run some Seafoam gas treatment through a tank of gas to get rid of anything that might be in there from previous inferior gas fill ups. I swear Seafoam fixes everything (almost).

I've taken to waxing my wheels now with a teflon detail spray marketed for motorcycles. It works well, and cuts down on the buildup. It makes the surface really slick.

I know my 3.6 takes more than the 5.5 quarts (with filter) indicated in the user's manual to get the level correct on the dipstick.

the only problem I have with using a USB stick is that the light on the stick stays lit even when the car is off.

service dude at my dealer said to be sure to clean the wheels regularly - apparently that dust is corrosive (?)

I have noticed excessive brake dust build up on the rear wheels of my '11 Crew since day one. So much so that I mentioned it to a friend who is a mechanic. he was concerned and said to keep an eye on the pad wear, so 6,000 miles later I am doing that on a regular basis. I have not removed the rear wheel, but have looked in there with an inspection mirror, and the pad thickness seems decent at least on the outboard side. I can't get a good look at the inboard pad. he also mentioned it might be an air flow thing. I'm assuming he's thinking that the pad dust is not being swept away, or flung to the rim due to the way the wind is traveling through/around the rear wheel. I am going to have this checked out when I bring it in for a winter oil change. it is the strangest thing. Disc brake cars are supposed to have dirty front wheels, not rears.