2late4u

i would go to the general manager of that dealership and would let him know what you were wanting and what was said to you by whom i suppose was the parts part and then i would tell him that when you did buy a new car it would not be at his dealership that had workers that talked liked that to custermers like that.. he might give you a great deal on the replacement fob to make up for his rude worker......

my 2011 had warped rotors at about 10k and the dealer turned them, wasnt to happy about that but didnt complain to much, then at 28k had the journey in for a oil change and told them the rotors were warped again and they said well it was past the accepted milage for replacment under warrenty and we got in a heated discusion so he said if id pay for parts they would do the labor, they wanted about $250. for the pads and other parts. i told hell no i could do it for alot less and get new rotors and pads aftermarket. by the time i got home he called me up and said they would do a 1 time goodwill gesture and do the whols job free i asked are you going to turn or replace the rotors and he said replace since they had already turned them once. so i let them do it. so far so good have 66k on the car and minus the 28k= 38k miles on this set and no warped rotor and i just pulled the front wheels and the inside pad looks like it still has 50-60 percent pad left on them. the one thing i have notice that with the mopar pads when going thur a really heavy rain when stopping the pads make a loud noise first time when pressing them it happens very rarely has it has to be a real downpoor, dont every really remembering any of my other vechiles with different pads doing that.

take it to a dealer they should at least help point out the relay to you or show you in their book which one it is in the fuse box or go down to your local advance auto or parts store and they should be able to help you find it and the relay would be cheaper there. might be the relay or something else but it would be the first spot i would start at. good luck

we have a 2011 and when we go on a long trip the wife will lean the seat back to take a nap and seems like just about every time after about a minute or two the seat back will pop like the seat back was not latched in properly has happened with me also when we change out driving. nothing to worry about and since it is past the warrenty no big deal just wondering if any one else has had this happen to them..

never have liked the rear wiper on our journey. only a 3/4 wipe while the caravans have a full wipe and comes to a rest at the bottom on the glass. oh well guess you cant have everything......

welcome to the group

are you sure you dont want them to give you free gas also ? sorry not trying to be a smartass but how long do you expect them to give you free brake jobs. true the brakes are not the best as ive had problems also and they gave me a goodwill gesture brake job which ive went at least an other 37k ,miles on and havent had any problems from the rotors but when i do ill do my own brake job as i have had other cars where the front pads wear out after about 40k miles. brakes do wear out and rotors do warped at different times for different drivers.. that said good luck and live life to its fullest......

wouldn"t the cost of all new rims offset what very little gain you would get in MPG, i would think anything you might gain would be so small to be notice. but that would be my opinon, and of course you know what they say about...LOL

well not alot i assume. if you can do it yourself it will still be quite expensive to do. just redoing front pads and rotors with quality parts will cost about $150 to $170 at least but will prob last a lot longer than the oem dealer parts. when the dealer did my fronts on a good will gesture i had 28 k and i have 65k on the same pads and rotors and still running good. when it comes time i will do my own with aftermarket pads and rotors. p.s. just changed out my rear pads and they could have gone abother 10-15k i guess but the pads were on sale and it was good weather.....

had my journey one time about a yr ago showed me a message to check the gas cap. i did that then shut the cart off then back on and the message had went away..

try removing the fuse and reinsertering again to see if that helps (like rebooting your computer) good luck.....

has been talked about before check with your dealer for more info, also there are after market parts that can be inserted under the seat fabric try googling after market seat warmers... good luck

why not buy wagner rotors they are warrented for life against warping and around $52. for the fronts from advance auto and if you go to retailmenot.com and get coupon code for $40 off for any purchase over $110 just order from advance auto and they will ship them free or if in stock go down and pick them up at the store. they also have the thermoquite brake pads right now with a rebate of $15 per set pads are about $62. make 2 different orders and you would get 20 +40 off plus the rebate of $15. and if you buy from advance auto when the thermoquites wear out they will replace them one time for free most other auto part stores dont give thermos warrenty on their pads.so for about $175. minus $75 discounts and rebate new rotors and pads for about$100.00... cant beat that ANY WHERE....

well if the clicking is coming from the front when you are turning a tight turn it would prob. be a cvc joint but from the rear dont know, i would try a different dealer the next time you take it in.

just replaced the rear pads on my 2011 mainstreet they had about 65k miles on them still had some pad left maybee another 10-15 k. i used wagner thermoQuite pads they were cermanic on the rears and reg pads on the front. my fronts had been changed out at the dealership because of warped rotors at 28k miles and was a good will gesture to try to keep me happy, havent had any problems with the front rotors as of yet. fingers crossed

take it back to the dealer that sold it to you and make them do their job to turn them on.

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well yesterday i changed out my rear pads,first time ever doing rear pads and it was a little harder than doing the fronts but after doing the one side the other side was a little easier.I used one of thoes $4.99 dice cubes to turn back the piston and as i read for it to fit a journey you have to grind off 2 of the 4. of the pegs to make it fit the face of the piston it wasnt as hard to turn it back as i thought it would be but it was a little difffcute. As i dont expect to have to do to many more brake changes it worked out ok.But if i was alot younger i would have spent the $39. plus tax for a big kit for rewinding the pistons one thiught was the kit from harbor freight didnt say it fit dodge vech. seems like it fit every vech. except them.oh my mainstreet has 65k miles on it and the inside pad was wore down pretty good probaly had about another 5k on them but wanted to put some on so we wouldnt have any brake problems while on a trip somewhere.If you watch that u tube vidieo on the 2009 brake change i couldnt get the caliper to come off withe the bracket like he showed i had to remove the 2 little caliper bolts from the carrier before getting them to come loose and you do need to wrenches to remove them as think frogbox was telling us, no big problem,also wagner thermoquite brake pads inst.said if the pads come with the shims come attached as they did not to use any stickey adhesive but to use a certain type of grease, but after removing the factory pads it looked like they used a dad of glue to the back of the pads, so ill find out in time if i should have used it also or done it like the instructions says ill report back later what i find out.....

Take it back to the dealer as you should get 1 year free and maybe there was somthing they did when they activated your subscription. I am like the rest I didn't renew after the first year. I get letters all the time offering half off and or 2 weeks free, but when i called they could never get it set up for the free 2 weeks. So now all letters from them go straight to the round file box....

check on u tube see if there are any vidieos on it, fronts dont seem to be bad never done any rear

how much did that lifetime warrenty cost. i waws asking a salesman about it while i was picking up some oil filters the last time at the dealership and he acted like their was no such thing and then finnally said his dealership didnt offer it at this time, which i thought was b/s but didnt push it as i dont like that dealer any way. thanks for any info

looks cold , we are down to 50 degrees here in al. looks great

yrs ago i bought a product that covered just your lights it was cut to exact size and shape and it was opital grade plastic and it was guaranted not to turn yellow. it worked great and also it protected the light against stones. remember the plastic lens use to fogg up and or turn hazy, any way I tried to find it for my journey but guess they quit making it . i remember it cost about$50. back then, i remember catching a big stone on the light and it made a big mark in the plastic but saved the lens from cracking. it was well worth the cost just for that reason alone.......................... P.S. the stuff i used was kind of thick it wasnt a thick plastic sheet.

i have a 2011 mainstreet 3.6 and my gas mileage can be as low as 18mpg in my small town with some country driving but on the avg i get around 20 to 21 mpg. now on trips to the beach in gulf shores al. i will avg 22-25 on the interstate driving at 75- 80 mph. gas mileage always dependends on your speed, stops, and elavation of the road. going out to vegas i got 22-25 going out against the wind and going up with elavations of new mexico but coming back i was getting 30-31mpg elavation going down so that makes a huge difference. overall i love my 2011 and i am happy with the mpg for such a big suv. only problems i had with mine were the front brake rotors and the dealer changed them and put on new pads at 28k and i have 64k on it now with no more problems with the front rotors.i am putting rear pads on the next week so 64k on them and about 36k on the front pads and they look great. hope you decided on what to buy and will be happy with it.. p.s. most drivers use the mpg reading that the car tells you as you are driving down the road but that is NOT a true reading of what you get most of the time. i always check my gallons of gas used aginst the miles i have drove and that is the most relible way to get your true mpg.

i went to leeparts.com then clicked dodge then clicked yr then journey then clicked interior then scrolled down to the elec. heat.. as i said these were for 2009 -2010 yrs. they go under the seat cloth and then wires run to the dash switches as i also said you need to go to dealer to see if they have them for your 2011. this is the same site that they odered my backup camera for my 2011. the dealer didnt even know that the back up cam was alavaible till i brought this to his attention.. good luck