JustDodge
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i have the same issue for the exact wheel placement. I do know at least 2 of my wheels are not in the correct spot but there was like 2 times where the tpms light actually went off and showed a reading for all 4 tires. but after a day or so it went back to no reading. i did see a lack of sensors for like 15 but not sure since they seem cheap
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I have a 2012 3.6 Journey experiencing similar issues. It started off not engaging 6th gear on the freeway. Now it doesn’t engage past 3rd gear, therefore I can’t drive past 40mph. Therefore no freeway driving. If I use slight to moderate acceleration the transmission will slip and I would have to get off the gas, the rpm’s will drop and the transmission will catch itself (assuming that’s the surge stated). If I don’t let off the gas the transmission will literally just drive in no gear. In earlier stages, I did experience stalling but haven’t in a while. I would have to restart the vehicle for the transmission to shift but that’ll only last up to 30mph. I’ve had MULLLLLLTIPLE codes appear just off this one issue, from P0734, P083B, P0735, P0729 and P084B. I also hear like a rattling noise coming from the housing of the transmission as the car is gassed and trans temp reaches around 180-190°. Knowing what the torque converter is, I’m confident it just needs to be replaced that’s IF… it hasn’t caused other internal damage to the transmission. -
My moms 2017 SXT 3.6 just started showing this code maybe a week ago. This came shortly after a cylinder 4 misfire fuel injector code which was causing the car to shake and have bad fuel economy. Not sure what’s the culprit considering the fact that I bought fuel injectors and mysteriously the issue solved itself?? P0420 still occurs though, intermittently as well. Kinda feel like it’s a domino effect happening
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Chugs and then sometimes dies when coming to a stop
JustDodge replied to Nicolecolie's topic in Engine & Transmission
May I ask, I have a similar issue too. Coming to a stop it’s like a surge or jerk. The car may still run or just completely stall. It’s starts back up fine until it stalls again. Doesn’t happen every time but often too many. I also have an issue where the transmission slips into 3rd and 6th gear. I think the stalling was just results of the known slipping issue or at least part of it since I had no issues prior. Therefore my question being would this fix the slippage or would that just need a solenoid pack replacement? If I floor which I shouldn’t be in the times I have, it drives fine. No slippage or anything until cruising speeds. -
RPMs 1500-1800, and then jumps to 3000.
JustDodge replied to leaning's topic in Engine & Transmission
Have you recently had a tune up? Could possibly be from old/faulty spark plugs causing engine misfire and rough idle. Probably also why they couldn’t find an issue with the trans. -
Okay, got ya. I most likely will take it back to them. I was just hesitant because I had financed the work they did originally from working on it and am still paying them. So to have to pour money back to them for an issue I’m already paying them for “fixing” isn’t the best.
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I tried taking the pan down but the rtv that was on it was to strong to actually take the pan off. I tried knocking it off and all yet it still didn’t budge so I siphoned the old atf through the inlet port. The old fluid was a bit burgundy compared to the clear clean (new) fluid. Also to ask, if there was an issue with the torque converter itself, it would actually throw a code?
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I made a post about two days ago in regards to my transmission slipping while trying to engage 6th gear. I’ve been experiencing this issue for a little over a week. I changed the transmission fluid, problem still consist. At first, I did have codes for P0729 (incorrect gear 6 ratio) and P0733 (incorrect gear 3 ratio). After the fluid change, I no longer see the code for P0733 but got another code for P083B (transmission fluid pressure sensor). Now… outside the slipping into 6th gear, the car recently (like a day or two ago) started to stall at idle, not always but the fact it happens is enough. It’ll start back up fine and will function properly (outside the slipping). Is this possibly a cause of a failing torque converter? Locked solenoids? I also had gotten my transmission replaced a year ago in August not sure if that’s good or bad details. Any suggestions and/or thoughts would highly be appreciated.
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I actually bought a pump yesterday, like a siphon pump… didn’t work. I literally used a clear tubing and just sucked the oil out. I had a 7QT pan that’s literally almost full. The odd thing is I don’t even think I put more than a qt of atf in there. So I wonder if it was overfilled when I got my transmission replaced?
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Yeah I just used the engine oil dipstick to measure it at cold. It should level just barely below the curve on dipstick. My level was where it should be hot, at cold. So definitely too much. Hopefully after I drain it, it’s not slipping because I can’t get a new transmission right now im also at 167k. Last year in august I just got transmission replaced. No issues prior until me “topping it off”. I had just watched multiple videos including this one. So that’s how I was at the conclusion of it being too much atf
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I just got it replaced not even a year ago, it was under the warranty I got when I bought the car but I no longer have the warranty. My mind just went to it being more of a quick fix thing since is has only been happening after I added fluid.
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It’s me again… currently facing transmission slippage. Noticed this on the highway when around 75mph it’ll slip trying engaging into 6 gear then it’ll catch. Started about a week ago after I added transmission fluid. With that happening, I siphoned out some atf, still slipping. I got a code for p0729 (incorrect gear 6 ratio). I googled/YouTubed how to check the fluid, based off what I seen, it was low so thought maybe it actually needed more… dumb mistake. Now I’m experiencing slippage in 3rd (P0733). I drained all the fluid. I pulled about 3Qts out. No difference. Is it that I added too much or didn’t add enough?
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I’ve been having the issue for a minute and the mechanics I’ve been trying to get a hold of are on BS! The issue is coming from my Front Left tire and it’s knocking noise, as if the wheel is wobbling side to side/ back and forth. ↔️ It’s at the point my whole steering wheel and front end is shaking as if the wheels is preparing to fall off. This happens pretty much the whole time I’m driving over 5 mph. It’ll slow down to nothing when I decelerate to a stop. I’m pretty aware of having to take the tire off to inspect the components but what are some things in regards to the wheel that can cause this to happen that may need to be looked at specifically if anything? I have a video of it happening in real time linked below. https://youtube.com/shorts/oyotA6qyabQ?feature=share
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4 days later. I only went back over their work. Removing intake and putting it back together how I know it goes, it wasn’t anything out of place but I haven’t been having the issue since. May have been a loose wire. I still have those codes though.
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Gonna pop back in, I actually pulled two codes. Following me being told there were none, one being C121C-00 and the second being U0401-00.
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Will do, it was a coincidence for sure. I did check the camshaft position sensors those seemed fine. Pushed all the harnesses and everything I thought of in just to make sure.
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The work they did was suspension work. It’s at 102k miles. I knew the battery wasn’t an issue because you’d notice signs of that immediately with the typical ticking from a no start or certain accessory not working properly. The voltage on it is also 14.3 alt is good to, so it’s no bad. How the battery was a possible problem?? I’m not sure. A dodge dealership was on my list but I wanted the people who worked on it to actually look and fix whatever the my possibly could’ve done, also due to warranty would’ve covered it. Then I came here to see if anyone else had this issue specifically. Haven’t seen that so far. Jut will update.
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IMG_4225.MOVOkay, todays vehicle is not my own but my moms 2017 Journey 3.6. Recently took it to a shop Tuesday of last week. We got it back last Friday. Maybe a day or two after, we’ve experienced an issue at start where it’ll kinda ‘hum’ to life for about 5-7 seconds. Rough up/down idling. ETC flashing w TC and TC Off light constant. It’s like it’s fighting to stay on (audibly too). Not sure if it goes into limp mode or not but she was at work and describes she couldn’t even accelerate in a parking lot… I drove it well attempted to myself. It’s like in drive if I let my foot off the brake and not press gas it’s kinda torque-ey like I’m brake boosting it??? We do stay in Michigan but still haven’t had this issue on even colder days but it’s doesn’t just happen cold but after it sat a while. Not start back to back. We’ve experienced this twice in the past 4 days and we’ve always cut the car off and back on again and it’ll start like nothing just happened. I took it back to the shop that worked on it. Was told the Throttle body may need replacement but they inspected and couldn’t find any issues that could cause it. The engine light wasn’t on or throwing any codes. He did say the battery may be bad but outside this… never any issues or signs. Basically couldn’t work on it or tell insurance anything if it’s not a obvious issue. So I’m at a lost? I seen a few topics on this but never really had all these issues exactly. Any help would be nice! I leave a video to what happens on the dash.
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Will do, I’ll report back and update on what happens from there.
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Yeah I went back through the thread. Shortly after that thread was made, I did take it to the shop but was told it was looking to be an actuator and they was charging a $100 just to look at it. Knowing how much it cost to replace the actuator, it wasn’t worth the $100 especially if I could do it myself. But come to find out, the actuator wasn’t the whole issue. I did think of a coolant flush as well since my driver heat yet is hot, just not the hottest. Looks like that’s next! I’ll go YouTube how that’s done.
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I brought this issue up sometime ago, still the same issue where there’s no heat on the passenger side. I stay in Michigan where we’re dealing w snow. I checked the actuator again, it didn’t move when I changed the passenger temp which was a giveaway to what was happening. I bought another actuator, replaced the old one… still had the same issue. I checked the actuator again, to notice that it didn’t move in increments with the temp. If I put the temp at 72° or above it would completely open and anything below that it would just completely close. I have the actuator off now and move the actual flap with my hand to see if theres an issue outside the actuator and still no heat at all. The also has an effect on my underfloor heat vents, hot heat blows through those either. I make sure my coolant is topped. What could it possibly be?
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Looks like I’ll have to get a more intuitive reader. Mine is just a basic engine code scanner. My blank read started at the RR wheel and that same blank reading has rotated to my FL wheel. About 3 months ago, surprisingly all the reading actually showed for the first time owning it. But it was a shortly lived moment. That kinda would go to say it’s either antennas or the module, huh? Also looking at a different post I seen about the issue I seen you replied on.
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Has it ever dropped out and came back to show another tire with a missing reading or is it the same tire going in and out?
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The best I can say is try to manually relearn yours. If not, maybe the replace your tpms module itself because if it’s the same wheel after being replaced. The module may have some type of fault for it to not constantly and accurately read.
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I’ve been googling and searching. In my case, I’ve have the “ ——“ rotate to different tires. I guess is called “floating” from what I’ve seen one person say. I think I’m gonna have to manually relearn the system to reset/calibrate it. Because after seeing it “float” to different wheels, I think the sensors work but the computer itself isn’t registering all 4. Only 3 and those 3 readings will swap through tires occasionally. It was my front right wheel originally w no reading. Now it has a reading and switched to not showing my front driver wheel. I’ll still do further inspection to get as close of a solution possible
