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John/Horace

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Everything posted by John/Horace

  1. John/Horace
    The code is for the intake solenoid in this link, or the wiring leading to it. Usually makes car run rough and maybe stall; it’s probably not the main cause for the recorded noise. Not a timing chain related item. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,2.4l+l4,1444145,engine,intake+manifold+runner+control+valve+/+solenoid,10776
  2. John/Horace
    Losing coolant but not obvious where. What does engine oil look like. Is engine using much oil right now.
  3. John/Horace
    How many miles on engine? Are there any engine codes, check even if no light on. The 2.4 is not the quietest engine even when healthy, my daughter in law has had one since new and over maintained with dealer oil changes etc. It seems a little noisy too. They timing chain and top end always seem more noisy than other cars. I think the main noise could the chain and tensioner getting worn, but you would be getting various engine codes if it needed changing immediately. Like cam sensor codes that don’t go away with new parts. There may be a knock mixed into the noise that could be water pump if you haven’t changed it yet. Usually you need an engine stethoscope to isolate the sound. Or run engine with no serpentine belt for 30 seconds and listen for sound change. There is a weap hole on the pump that usually starts to drip when bearing seal starts to go.
  4. John/Horace
    I’m thinking signal in journey itself, can you confirm it’s good. Am/fm amplitude frequency modulation radio is on a different antenna, not satellite based. Actually my name is not John or Horace; they were the Dodge brothers; both died in 1920 during an influenza pandemic, strangely enough.
  5. John/Horace
    What is it showing for signal strength. Must be in the menu some where. Antennas can have issues, not that expensive if bad.
  6. John/Horace
    Yeah great stuff. Especially on older high milage cars with sand blasted windshields that haven’t been changed out yet. Costco up north sell Michelin branded blades for $10 each that seem to hang together pretty good; wear item like the OP’s are saying.
  7. John/Horace
    These guys seem to use vin might help. https://www.dodgeparts.com/
  8. John/Horace
    Do you have a good vehicle history of maintenance. Tranny like some one mentioned should have had at least one oil change by now, glycol as well. Do you have a trusted mechanic who doesn’t look at you like a lottery ticket when you come in. Did the original owner have three teenagers beating on it for the 200k or was is driven normally. Do you have a million dollar ear (for squeaks and rattles) and a tight $ budget for repairs on an older car. Need to be able to figure out what a noise is caused by, then turn up radio if a non safety item like a sway bar link bushing. Some people don’t have that abilility; I’m referring to some of my family members right now, who will go un-named. The original OP is only hoping he is South America right now, for nicer warmer weather, like we all crave.
  9. John/Horace
    Remotes often have a panic button on them. I triggered mine by accident the other day. Was remote in pocket ? Is there a separate button? Manually moving lock mechanism from inside car when system is armed will trigger alarm if no separate button. panic button on remote. If alarm system is armed and door handle or latch activated from inside; car system assumes window was broken and someone without key is manually triggering lock mechanism. Alarm goes off.
  10. John/Horace
    I knew someone would appreciate good backyard exhaust hacking. Cutting through the license plate rather than removing it, classic.
  11. John/Horace
    Thanks for more follow up info. Even oem can be an issue sometimes. Hyundai accents where shipped with junk coils a few years back. Their Korean assembled cars are often 30 percent Japanese content, Nippodenso etc usually decent stuff. At least on a four cyclinder they are easy to change out, so it’s tempting to save a buck. See if your china brand is better than the potential oem China part. My 2009 f150 had a very annoying speaker rattle a few years ago. Pulled it out to change it to see a big China stamp on part. A vehicle with a 980k plus annual production and still out sourcing from North America, ouch. Good point about the connectors, which can be bought separately on the 3.6. One of mine came apart during plug change. Used a Standard Motor products part, Mopar out of stock on Rockauto. Might regret that move eventually. Use proper dielectric grease on connectors when installing. If spending over a $100 ask dealer parts guy for mechanics price, I often get 10-20 percent.
  12. John/Horace
    In my best Borat voice. Niiicce very niiccee.
  13. John/Horace
    Dozens of things. Temperature sensors, refrigerant levels etc. On heat settings it holds temp correctly, is a/c only thing erratic ? Not blowing at all means rear fan not coming on, no air flow.? Side to side is actuator in dash like mentioned in this forum several times.
  14. John/Horace
    Welcome to the forum. Make sure to get a good ground for meter, scratch to bare metal if needed. Are back up lights led or just regular 12 volt bulbs. Transmissions have a back up sensor normally that sends signal to car that reverse is actuated. Not sure if it’s ground or power, I would guess powered 12 volt switch.
  15. John/Horace
    Welcome to the forum. If it’s draining battery in 4 hours must be a lot of current. Most fuses are in the passenger front kick panel. I would pull the fuse for radio temporarily band see what changes. Seems like to much drain for radio staying powered up. Cars have a go to sleep function for most electronics, takes a few minutes to trigger but once activated the drain should be in the digital clock range of 75-150 milli amps. If you have a multi meter, check the draw fuse by fuse and see if you can isolate it down to a single fuse. Internal fuse in meter usually 10 amps, try not to blow it. Make sure no dash cams and cell chargers are being left plugged in. There is a red flashing led on dash cluster that will always be on when security is armed, on my model. But my 2014 has no dodge sign showing in cluster. Good luck with the search. Heating issues are often tied to small actuator switches that move blender door and other flaps in dash. There are posts on this site about that. Always check glycol level first when there is intermittent heating issues, flaky thermostat can also cause type of problem.
  16. John/Horace
    So I’m assuming this is a wireless signal going to a transmitter, no rca video cable being fished to front of car. Curious what brand of camera and from where? I would like to do this because having it done seems to be very pricy. Dash screen needs to be activated for the input signal from camera, or is it plug and play. 8.4 or 4.3 screen ?
  17. John/Horace
    Fix, who said anything about fix. Maybe it’s just a Russian thing, love Japlopnik site sometimes. https://jalopnik.com/those-crazy-russian-bastards-built-both-the-loudest-and-1842529472
  18. John/Horace
    That’s great news it’s fixed. I use that same stuff on both my vehicles on the throttle body intake normally once a year. I’ve seen the same symptoms cleared by cleaning the mass air flow sensor. But you don’t have one, 2.4 is a map sensor design. Thanks for update, that’s how we all learn. Stay safe.
  19. John/Horace
    Because crank cps code is still coming back I think it is the primary problem. It could be causing the cyclinder misfire when there isn’t really another problem. If you want to avoid throwing another part at it you could trouble shoot more. Mark the coil on cyclinder #1 then move it to cyclinder #2; clear code and drive car; if it comes back to #1 examine plug. Some electrical problems only visible on an osciliscope, mechanics don’t have these, more of an electronics tec thing. Cps seems to be an issue with the 2.4 at fairly low milage. My daughter in law just had an issue with her 2012 at 60k miles or 100k kilometres. She is 5 hrs away, local dealer decent so they changed it out. No further issues. Let us know if you figure it out.
  20. John/Horace
    Did mechanic check for other engine codes ? Codes good starting point even if no light on dash. How many miles on car, I believe the oem plugs on the 2.4 are copper core on some years, so 50k mile approx change interval. Was it an oem sensor. Some Tec’s believe on critical components it’s better to buy a usually more expensive factory part. But if mech showed normal signal should be ok, what was his suggestion for engine stutter?
  21. John/Horace
    Fits into black plastic grommet that pushes into the sheet metal. Beside glycol reservoir, it’s mounted to indent in passenger inner fender sheet metal where the yellow dot in picture is. Stay save, I lived in Vancouver as a toddler decades ago.
  22. John/Horace
    So if you just slide dimmer switch to top setting with car off do they come on.? They should cycle off/on using this switch manually. If so you are correct it’s something else. Check setting for passive entry under lights options in uconnect, is it checked and opening/closing door locks automatically. There are some neat options for lights on this vehicle. I also like the button on that hatch for triggering power locks.
  23. John/Horace
    Is there any stored codes.? I would scan even if there is no light on dash. Has car ever been in a large accident that was repaired? Very tricky with no drawing to trouble shoot. I would mark abs relay under hood and switch it with another identical one in box, see if still amp draw with engine off. If someone you know has a Mitchel log in there might be electrical schematics there you could print out. Maybe check main plug on abs pump under hood for signs of corrosion. Remember free advice is worth everything you pay for it.
  24. John/Horace
    When someone complains about their current car being unreliable crap...it bothers me. We are spoiled in so many ways that the real junk of the past no one really remembers now. Perspective matters.
  25. John/Horace
    Very simple but crude vehicle. Very slow because of heavy weight under powered engine, fuel economy not horrible. Exhaust pipes and other metal very thick so you could fix stuff your self. No catalytic converter I think was why back pressure mattered. Just a catalytic by itself could be the minimal back pressure a 4 stroke normally aspirated engine needs. Entire electrical system wired with four colors of wire. Trying to trace an issue not exactly easy to do. Tool kit from car hilarious but functional. I still have two metric wrenches from the kit. Excellent strength steel, but machining and forging very ruff. One wrench has the size stamping mixed up. Small 10 mm end says 13 and vice versa. Bad vodka day maybe.
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