John/Horace

With a ram and Journey I should check into this. Non factory programming stuff does require patience I find. My older code scanner which does abs/air bags is like that. Not intuitive, lots of blind searching of modules, but saves $’s. By the way what is a proxi alignment for awd.

Is horn still working ? Clock spring harness has horn wiring on it. Runs through steering column. Will set a code but you need the right code reader for non obd codes to be read. Not sure if O’Reilly type places will have correct reader. Chrysler use to have issues with that harness on the vans. WAG.

Get a Mitchel login, they have all vehicle data for maint.

Tough issue when it’s not starting some where else. In your shop could check voltage drop etc that would eliminate things. Im guessing not two bad starters in a row. It sounds like a hot soak condition; not starting after car has been running and turned off. When it’s not starting need to remove starter relay and jumper I think 30 to 87 contacts, forcing on starter and bypassing all safety stuff like key switch security, transmission range selector switch etc. If it still doesn’t turn over its cables or starter related problem. If it now turns over it’s key fob, or transmission neutral switch problem or TIPM. Putting car in neutral sometimes helps proves range switch issue but not always. TIPM module with random no starts another possibility. Make up a jumper pigtail to prove failure before buying part. More common on early journeys. Try different key fob to eliminate security. Good luck.

Have you scanned to see if any codes showing up in ecm that could point towards the issue?

For pan seal use this.

In comments section of link, a Journey in Minnesota gets mentioned. So it’s not completely off topic. https://jalopnik.com/heres-what-engine-oil-looks-like-during-a-sub-zero-temp-1846558237

Check connections on vacuum booster. Check valve or hose could have an issue. Scan for any brake codes in ecm.

Pan needs to be dropped, filter replaced, magnet cleaned and new atf+4 fluid added. Dropping pan gets about 5 litres out of 11 approx in system. I top up the 5, run it through the gears at less than 40 mph so torque converter gets flushed out. Then syphon out oil from dipstick, usually 4 litres will come out. Then top up again. It’s messy and timing consuming doing this; but just a flush with out it is not a great idea. Flushing can disturb deposits in system and most mechanics I know don’t recommend it, especially on a high mileage car. The atf+4 is a semi synthetic oil that is only $8 a litre, so price is too high. Use a tranny shop and get a receipt.

Rebuild not that bad unless really seized. If no scoring or pitting on piston or casting, seals just swapped. If piston only damaged a new piston can be bought sometimes. Compressed air to push out piston can be useful. Sylglide or equivalent needed for seal lube.

If sticking in place and seizing I would buy a reman caliber. If piston not hitting pad I would play with it. Could be air trapped in caliper. Small 3” piece of clear hose attatched to bleeder screw and then open bleeder. You may see a few bubbles rising with fluid. Cycle parking brake a few times and gravity bleed the non working caliper a few times afterwards. The air should work it’s way out, make sure reservoir doesn’t get too low. Second person keeping pedal pressure as it goes to floor gets the air out even faster than gravity bleed. Might end up with a reman caliper anyway if it starts to seize up on rotor. Worth a try to avoid extra $’s. The piston should have self adjusted by either pedal pressure or parking brake cycling, normally. Manually moving parking brake lever is hard with the cables attatched. Repeated pedal cycling might avoid bleeding, another option. Free advice worth everything you pay for it.

Aftermarket drain plug would need washer. Oem rubberized.

I think it’s an electric clutch that cycles on. Not the old style viscous coupling with the silicone fluid that gets too thick. ZF or borg Warner made.

Lightning bolt is from a electrical problem being sensed. Which could be battery or charging etc. What is battery voltage right now, what is voltage with car running and multiple accessories turned on.? Batteries can go low if car sits too much and not driven enough for proper recharge.

If dealer used vin they would be more accurate. Motor city is $724 for that part plus shipping, so cheaper. Did wrecker part show the correct part number on it.? https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/49391033/68222278AA.html

Some important parts should be factory parts. When was the last time the map sensor was oem ? Have you tried testing map sensor plug for what voltage is there ? There can be cases where the sensor is ok but the signal from it doesn’t get to the pin on the ecm properly. Basically a wire harness problem.

Is this the same part. These guys are good for Canada, do ship. https://parts.motorcitychrysler.ca/p/Dodge_2012_Journey-RT-Sport-Utility-36L-Pentastar-V6-FLEX-AT-FWD/Module-Control-GPS-Navigation-Mobile-Phone-Telematics--Code-RSQ-Control-ModuleS/49860131/68222279AA.html

It’s just straight oil no clutches. No LSD additives at all. Just buy a good quality gear oil.

Wow that’s tough. Nasty when shops take advantage of people and don’t know what they are doing. There should be codes that indicate what is causing problem which mechanics can retrieve with a scanner. Its probably throttle or gas pedal sensor related problem that the lightning bolt dash light is showing. Talk to someone you trust for a mechanic they use. Better times ahead.

Because someone posted a pic of him and his ?‍⬛.

Tie rods and ball joints are tire eaters $ and big potential safety issues. Never good having tires pointing in different directions. Sway bars and lateral links clanking more annoying than safety. Affect handling a bit so eventually have to be addressed. Journey suspension more involved then a lot of simple Mac strut systems on the older cars; but handling is better. If you can isolate noise down to specific bushing or part so shops can’t play top 10 guesses; you can save your self a bit of money. The quality of roads you drive on have a large effect on suspension component durability IMO.

The in tank filters are pretty much life time I have read, but plugging up is always possible. New pump sending unit would come with new filter. Fpr fuel pressure regulator on pump could be failing in tank. That link will explain how to test for that. Probably clamping return line under hood when pressurized and seeing no drop in pressure. Injectors upstream not leaking if it holds ...problem probably downstream in tank by process of elimination. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,2.4l+l4,1444145,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump+&+housing+assembly,10147

Welcome to forum. Try searching the site, there are some postings on similar problems. New battery often only have partial charge; should always full charge before install. The blue tooth module staying on is the most common parasitic drain for battery issues; pulling fuse if you aren’t using it is a quick fix. Glove box light staying on, web camera plugged in, after market alarm systems can be causes. If you have a meter try testing alternator output. With car running measure voltage on under hood remote contacts; scratch probes to get a constant number. Should be 13.0-14.8 approx. Turn on a few things that draw heavy, heated seats, rear defrost, heater fan on full. Test voltage again under hood scratching probes. It shouldn’t really drop more than 12.8-13.5 ish under load. Lower than that and alternator getting weak. Good luck.

It’s never a great time for health issues; and right now has to be the worst time. Hope she comes through it ok. Trouble shooting with spray lube, cool idea. WD40 never seems to stay long as a lube. I found a pic of a lower control arm, it’s posted below. Bushing are available as a separate part but you probably won’t find a Tec interested in changing just the bushing. Between the rust that builds up on the arm and the labor required to press in bushing; more cost effective to change whole arm. Sometimes alignment needed afterwards.

SAE AWD classifications Part-time asynchronous / Synchronous Full-time fixed torque / Variable-torque passive / Variable-torque active On-demand synchronous variable-torque passive / Active On-demand independently powered variable-torque active