John/Horace

So you are running super test gas and it's slightly better. Interesting. Ethanol is crappy on engines. Sometimes engine top end can have carbon deposits. There is a system called Motovac that hook's to fuel rail and runs engine on straight cleaner. Can fix crappy idle and emissions code issues. Not that expensive. If compression is within 10% of target in cylinder 4, might be worth trying.

You got it back running, that’s great. Lots of good info for the site from your follow up. Not a lot of people have posted work about the rear diff and coupler. Electro magnet Facebook clip explains a lot. The plug on the rear diff looks like it is the 12 volt supply that engages the vc coupler when called on. I’m pretty sure the bolts can be reused on diff; it’s head gasket and main bearing bolts that are usually one time use design. The side output seals on the rear diff can be changed in place with c/v shafts pulled. Awkward but doable. In salt belt areas the seals seem to rot out and start leaking.

I don’t recall seeing one on our 2014, but I was in a hurry changing bearing. It would be hidden in the spindle when assembled now, so not easy to check. The rockauto photos don’t show one, but it could be a generic photo and not an actual 2014 shaft. Either way he is buying a shaft assembly it looks like. Will have to pay closer attention next time; other front still original.

So it’s not the regular metal toner ring with slots, it’s a rubber ring with magnetic inserts. Must be damaged where you can’t see it internally, so new c/v shaft I guess. https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiyh_nO9vn5AhVXkokEHUh3ArEQFnoECB0QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.ca%2FMagnetic-Encoding-213132ABS-Chrylser-Challenger%2Fdp%2FB078X1SLFF&usg=AOvVaw2BpMBuZgTkCYG_ih7j-fFD

There is no visible tone ring on c/v shaft, the pic is a awd front left drive shaft, fwd looks the same. It might be inside the rubber boot and get sensed through the rubber, not sure. I have changed them on cars where they are in the open and easily damaged. Turning off traction control switch might allow driving normal speed without pulling fuses for now. I wonder if the wire harness has a damaged wire between the wheel sensor plug and the abs control unit. Or if the abs control unit itself has corrupted firm ware on one of the four channels. Very odd problem.

There must be slots sensor is counting some where, it’s just not obvious. I’m in rust belt but was able to remove front sensor and change a wheel bearing a few weeks ago. Sensors pretty tuff. Was surprised it worked on reinstall. The old old sensor is closer to oem good sensor reading than new NTK. Try taking auto range selection off when measuring the new sensor a second time. I think it is probably very close to value of resistance as the known good oem. If you keep getting 0.47 on new sensor, it could be a bad sensor. Haven’t heard of a learn procedure for an abs sensor before.

Odd problem, I use NTK (basically part of NGK I believe) as a go to vendor often, have never had a problem with their stuff. The rear bearing hub comes with the abs sensor built in and a new cable (see pic). Front bearing has no sensor build in, sensor mounts on the spindle housing. Sensor and cable are an integrated one piece unit as you know. No visible toner ring on c/v like 2late4u is saying. Not sure how it figures out speed, splines in c/v shaft not close enough to measure. A couple of options to play with. Using multi meter measure ohms on the new NTK sensor and compare to another working abs sensor on the journey (could even check the suspect bad sensor if you still have it). It’s possible Mopar oem are slightly different value (I doubt it). It’s also possible you got a faulty sensor from NTK out of the box. Also give the abs wiring a real close look for physical damage; bad time for chip monks, mice chewing on stuff.

Yeah I think same thing. Don’t think steam heat would distort shape of the plastic intake. Gasket first. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,2.4l+l4,3038628,engine,intake+manifold+gasket,5424

I think you will be good with the new core now. Was on a Jeep forum and I came across this info about coolant changes from orange HOAT to green glycol. Previous owner of your truck not switching properly may have created your gel/sludge problem. I think staying with orange and doing dump and fill and maybe chemical flush if high milage, might help avoid heater core issues. – For HOAT (orange) coolant engines, NEVER JUST CONVERT TO GLYCOL. This will completely Sluj(R) the system and kill it. Multiple Mopar 04856977AC flushes, run on water for a while, then another flush. – For HOAT coolant engines, you absolutely must not mix or change without aggressive chemical flushing. That includes mixing with any other OAT or glycol. – For HOAT coolant engines, Mopar HOAT or Zerex G-05

I look after a 2.4 and a 3.6. I like working on 2.4, but driving the 3.6 is a bit more fun. Both are decent really. The 2.4 is a 2012 with around 100k miles, so coolant manifold(thermostat) crank position sensor and electronic throttle body unit were changed out, brakes all around. Dealer swapped front cat under a recall campaign. Kinda routine maint items and not super expensive if you can diy. Driving style can affect vehicle reliability, teenagers beating on a car does not usually help much. ?

Welcome to the forum. You have a first year journey. Curious if it’s the 2.4 or 3.5 and any major repairs that were done. Info that helps the diy people keep their vehicles running. It’s not always the miles that kills off cars, lack of maintenance IMO is the biggest factor. You obvious know how to look after yours. Cheers.

Changing timing belt is a very big job, lots of stuff has to come apart. Scanning for codes is always a good starting point. There are so many things that can create vibrations. Even engine mount on front of engine had to be removed to get timing belt covers removed for belt change.

Most car wiring is 14 gauge multi strand for up to 15 amps, some is 20 amp or 12 gauge wire; around battery is crazy big stuff. I would think defroster would be 20 amp wire in that harness, so using 12 gauge for all the fixes is safe way to go. Voltage drops over distance so bigger gauge is always a little better.

Any stored codes ? If no codes a flaky CPS or crank position sensor can cause random no starts. Doesn’t always leave a code, no t expensive part, $30 ish. On awd model can be very hard to get to. Is it 3.5 or 2.4 engine, CPS failure common on 2.4.

Thanks for the follow up. One last thing, what brand of core did you use, just curious. Thickness of piping might indicate overall quality of coil. Still running the pink or are you back to old school green long life glycol.

Was airbag bracket in dash bent out of the way to remove coil.? Instead of using pieces of heater hose to splice in new coil, was loosening crimp connections and redoing a decent option ; or did it appear too risky for leaks. I’m not looking forward to this repair, might do another dump and fill of the glycol to help avoid jell forming in heater core. This is similar to the problems Dexcool use to create in GM products.

Maybe if you can pay for the simulated exhaust note with simulated money $. The clip with the recorded Saturn Jupiter 2 engine, sounds better, obvious not an ICE engine sound, but neat and futuristic.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g40979761/woodward-dream-cruise-2022-wackiest-cars/

Regular obd scanner won’t pick up all codes. Dealer or expensive Snapon etc scanners will. Usually throttle body sets a code when it’s acting up, sometimes even a lightning bolt symbol pops on dash cluster. Car eventually goes to limp mode with a bad throttle body sensor. Plastic gears attatched to servo start to get stripped. Fuel pumps seldom ever go and they also would set a code of some sort. Whats the compression on cylinder 1, I wonder.

If you still have a misfire code for cylinder 1. Deal with that first, put a new plug in and see if code clears. Mopar throttle body part is very pricy; Hitachi makes the oem part and Rockauto sells it new, not remanufactured for less than half the price of dealer.

So abs control module, not the hydraulics module. Interesting. Maybe drive a little more careful in the rain; you probably don’t have abs right now when the light is on.

PXL_20210528_203254772.LS~2.mp4 Used coupling shouldn’t free wheel like a bearing; fluid always creates some resistance when spun, like in video.

The ram Promaster van used the Journey drive line with much higher tow ratings, probably much larger tranny oil cooler. 62 TE tyranny in both. All ProMaster vans are motivated by a 3.6-liter V-6 engine that provides 280 horsepower and 260 lb-ft of torque. A six-speed automatic transmission sends power to the front wheels. In our track tests, the Ram ProMaster made it from zero to 60 mph in 8.1 seconds. That's a solid performance, but other vans in this segment are quicker. For example, the Ford Transit made the same sprint in a mere 6.8 seconds, and the Nissan NV took 7.5 seconds to complete the run. Ram's ProMaster can tow up to 6800 pounds. This gives it less towing power than rivals such as the Ford Transit (7500 pounds). However, this Ram van compensates with its strong payload capability. It can accommodate up to 4680 pounds, which gives it a higher payload rating than competing models such as the Transit. W I think the bigger issue is the Journey unibody is not rated for a class 3 or 4 hitch that would be needed for tongue weight of about 10% minimum of trailer weight. In a major accident the insurance company is going to look at the specifics and possibly deny a claim. A lot of half ton pick up people are in the same territory with over sized trailer towing. Very nice install work and write up. In Ontario where I am, too much traffic and nasty insurance companies to want to go this route. My 2 cents. https://www.allpar.com/threads/6-speed-auto-in-the-promaster.166506/

Try a different browser. Might work better.

Yeah the charger plug ins work great…if you buy a good one. Some 1amp units barely keep the battery level from dropping if the screen is turned on. Look at the watts and amps, buy the biggest output for faster charging. Plug sticking out does not look as good and gets in the way sometimes. If installing jack, the usb “c” jack is the way to go imo. Mandated spec to reduce landfill crap. In the UK so far, https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjHucuc18v5AhWJBjQIHZQXCmQQFnoECC8QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.onlogic.com%2Fcompany%2Fio-hub%2Fusb-type-c-and-usb-3-1-explained%2F&usg=AOvVaw3HaUQd2Z6PVKpdu6I13haG