HOB88

Pedal Commander actually does work. Will not increase your max speed, but sure will make 0 to 60 significantly quicker. 

They told me, warranty only covers parts that fail and the labor to replace them. So, in other words, they would swap the rack and pinion and put everything back together under warranty. Everything else, including adjusting the cradle and doing the alignment would be extra, since that is considered service (?)
Doesn't seem right to me either...
Maybe Rob @DodgeCares could shed some light on it.

So, just got the Journey back today. Apparently, the dealer could not find any issues with CV joints or any other steering components, besides Rack and Pinion. The unit was making internal noise while the the steering wheel was being moved left to right. The Rack and Pinion swap with cradle and wheel alignment took about 4 hours. I was charged $370 for both cradle adjustment and front and rear alignment check/adjustment. No more noise and the steering feels smooth and a little tighter. I am happy that it happened while covered by factory warranty. Still no regrets for buying it, would like to keep it that way for a while.

So, just got the Journey back today. Apparently, the dealer could not find any issues with CV joints or any other steering components, besides Rack and Pinion. The unit was making internal noise while the the steering wheel was being moved left to right. The Rack and Pinion swap with cradle and wheel alignment took about 4 hours. I was charged $370 for both cradle adjustment and front and rear alignment check/adjustment. No more noise and the steering feels smooth and a little tighter. I am happy that it happened while covered by factory warranty. Still no regrets for buying it, would like to keep it that way for a while.

Not to resurrect an old thread, just trying to add to the knowledge base. My 2017 AWD developed the same exact noise while slightly moving the steering wheel back and forth. Dealer determined that the power steering assembly (rack and pinion?) needs to be replaced. Haven't got the details yet, just over the phone conversation with service scheduler. The vehicle only has 26k miles on it! My wife drives it like an old lady. This is frustrating. Good thing is, it's still under warranty. Will provide more info, once I find out more.

So, just got the Journey back today. Apparently, the dealer could not find any issues with CV joints or any other steering components, besides Rack and Pinion. The unit was making internal noise while the the steering wheel was being moved left to right. The Rack and Pinion swap with cradle and wheel alignment took about 4 hours. I was charged $370 for both cradle adjustment and front and rear alignment check/adjustment. No more noise and the steering feels smooth and a little tighter. I am happy that it happened while covered by factory warranty. Still no regrets for buying it, would like to keep it that way for a while.

I did some custom wrapping done to my 2012 Dodge Journey. If anyone like my design..thumbs up....

Pedal Commander is not going to increase power so it's equally effective on either the V6 or 4 cyl.. Probably a good way to think of it is a spot mode throttle response. It's a quicker and more sensitive response to your foot pressure so it comes down to what feels right to you. I tried going back to stock after using it and can't. To me, the Journey has some detuning issues. The transmission shifting and the throttle response are tuned to save gas and they are to the point of being small flaws. There are things you can do to improve your acceleration, here are some.
1. Smooth out the air flow from before the mouth of the snorkel to beyond where it exits the air filter box. I used a combination of auto wrap, a razor, and very fine sandpaper to create as little resistance throughout the air flow. After that, rub all of the airflow surfaces with dry lube silicone to slicken the areas for less resistance
2 Replace the air filter when it's showing dirt, before it's too dirty
3. Use Synthetic oil
4. Use 89 - 91 octane gas unless you are at higher altitude
5 Add pedal commander
 

Not to resurrect an old thread, just trying to add to the knowledge base. My 2017 AWD developed the same exact noise while slightly moving the steering wheel back and forth. Dealer determined that the power steering assembly (rack and pinion?) needs to be replaced. Haven't got the details yet, just over the phone conversation with service scheduler. The vehicle only has 26k miles on it! My wife drives it like an old lady. This is frustrating. Good thing is, it's still under warranty. Will provide more info, once I find out more.

Not to resurrect an old thread, just trying to add to the knowledge base. My 2017 AWD developed the same exact noise while slightly moving the steering wheel back and forth. Dealer determined that the power steering assembly (rack and pinion?) needs to be replaced. Haven't got the details yet, just over the phone conversation with service scheduler. The vehicle only has 26k miles on it! My wife drives it like an old lady. This is frustrating. Good thing is, it's still under warranty. Will provide more info, once I find out more.

Pedal Commander actually does work. Will not increase your max speed, but sure will make 0 to 60 significantly quicker. 

08 - Electrical / 8I - Ignition Control / SENSOR, Camshaft Position/Removal 3.6L Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Primary
LOP Related
LOP Description Skill Level Skill Category 081579P2 - Sensor, Cam position 3.6 Liter engine Right side 2 - Skilled 8 081579P3 - Sensor, Cam position 3.6 Liter engine- Left side 2 - Skilled 8 08157910 - Sensor, Cam position All other engines 2 - Skilled 8

CAUTION: The magnetic timing wheels (1) must not come in contact with magnets (pickup tools, trays, etc.) or any other strong magnetic field. This will destroy the timing wheels ability to correctly relay camshaft position to the camshaft position sensor.

The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensors are located at the rear of the cylinder head covers and are bolted to the cylinder head.
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner body (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal) .
If removing the LH CMP sensor, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal) .



NOTE: The RH CMP sensor is shown, the LH CMP sensor is similar. If removing both RH and LH CMP sensors, mark the sensors so they can be installed in their original locations.

Disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the CMP sensor.
Loosen the sensor mounting bolt (2).


Pull the sensor and mounting bolt from the cylinder head cover.
The O-ring seal (1) can be reused if not damaged.

Hello and welcome!

Welcome to the forum@

Congratulations and welcome to the forum! Nice looking DJ.

Skip [or run away from, as previously stated] the 4cyl. You can get a V6 for the about same price.
1mpg sacrifice, 100 HP gain. 

Totally worth it.

Very recently, all three came on again on the way home. I thought it would be the typical wheel speed sensor thing and I gave it some time to hopefully dry up and clear out. When the lights wouldn't go away, I brought it into my indy mechanic. He scanned the computer and found out that not enough power was being sent from the battery to the one sensor (driver's side rear). He followed the wire and found that the wire bundle that comes through the floor rubbed up against the actual opening and over time, broke. He repaired it but before he began, he called up the local Chrysler dealer if they ever encountered something like this and they initially said no. But when he finished the job, they called back and said that it does happen. So everyone be aware of this predicament and solution.

And they will have v6 pricing........stupid move

Don't skip....RUN

Do yourself a favor and skip the 4 cylinder. 

I have a 2014 Dodge Journey SXT all-wheel drive and the engine light came on. I purchased a code reader FIXD and it came back with a code showing that I needed the oil pressure sensor unit replaced. I called the Dodge dealer and they quoted me $560 to repair it. I went on YouTube and found the site that shows how to replace that sensor. The Dodge dealer was going to charge me for removing the intake manifold which was it necessary. I went out and purchased the part and replaced it. Granted you have to have the right tools to do this and I happen to have them. I have the codes cleared and my rig is back up and running for less than $60. Buy in this code reader was well worth the money that I paid for it.

Fun times on the dunes in Lancelin (WA)!

nah I made sure I had plenty of momentum heading into the less sure parts and keeping the wheels rolling 
 
PRO-TIP!