Dusty256

you might want to check the  BAS system .. it's the stability control. my 2009 did that a year and a half ago . after replacing the   front brake the left side still got warm.  i ended up disconnection the battery for ten minutes and then pushing the  brake pedal to drain any remaining stored battery voltage. after replacing the battery start the car and before moving turn the stearing  lock to lock returning to center.  
 
make sure the  car is on a level surface.  

you might want to check the  BAS system .. it's the stability control. my 2009 did that a year and a half ago . after replacing the   front brake the left side still got warm.  i ended up disconnection the battery for ten minutes and then pushing the  brake pedal to drain any remaining stored battery voltage. after replacing the battery start the car and before moving turn the stearing  lock to lock returning to center.  
 
make sure the  car is on a level surface.  

you might want to check the  BAS system .. it's the stability control. my 2009 did that a year and a half ago . after replacing the   front brake the left side still got warm.  i ended up disconnection the battery for ten minutes and then pushing the  brake pedal to drain any remaining stored battery voltage. after replacing the battery start the car and before moving turn the stearing  lock to lock returning to center.  
 
make sure the  car is on a level surface.  

Electronic Stability Program (ESP) 

If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the SteeringAngle Sensor (SAS) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time. To calibrate, perform the following: 

1) Start the engine. 
2) Center the steering wheel. 
3) Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left until the internal stop in the steering gear is met, then turn the wheel all the way to the right until the opposite internal stop in the steering gear is met. 
4) Center the steering wheel. 
5) Stop the engine.

Google "dodge charger ESP/BAS Light" A bunch of stuff out there -- apparently this is a know issue... with possible causes too numerous to mention.

Electronic Stability Program (ESP) 

If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the SteeringAngle Sensor (SAS) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time. To calibrate, perform the following: 

1) Start the engine. 
2) Center the steering wheel. 
3) Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left until the internal stop in the steering gear is met, then turn the wheel all the way to the right until the opposite internal stop in the steering gear is met. 
4) Center the steering wheel. 
5) Stop the engine.

Google "dodge charger ESP/BAS Light" A bunch of stuff out there -- apparently this is a know issue... with possible causes too numerous to mention.

Should come straight out the bottom with the k member 

Check out rock auto , a throttle body there is $165 or so depending which one you pick . They are very easy to replace. 

Check out rock auto , a throttle body there is $165 or so depending which one you pick . They are very easy to replace. 

Check out rock auto , a throttle body there is $165 or so depending which one you pick . They are very easy to replace. 

thought those 2.4 world engines where pretty bullet proof. guess h must of neglected it or did not change oil or check the level . 

heater core blocked . check the thermostats , there are two i think one controls the heater core flow 
 
my 2009 makes it nice and toasty warm even on the coldest days.
 
 

purge control valve , leak in the evap system , gas cap . 
 
 
http://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-P0441

wow ,  best post ever from a one post wonder !!!
 
 

horrible im unloading this car brakes, rotars terrible 

Fram or Wixx  never had a issue . 

don't go by the max pressure on the  tire used the  tire pressure that's listed on the sill plate

do you have the proper 50/50 mix and not just water..  i would suspect a blocked  radiator 

are you sure the  dimmer switch for the dash is not in the off position. there is one position on the light switch stalk that will prevent the inside lights from coming on with the door open

question , are you letting the idle speed settle down after starting it cold . 

codes , 
 
plugs , coil packs , boots .. 

question , are you letting the idle speed settle down after starting it cold . 

I think this post has a clue as to what the problem may well be.  I've had several vehicles (none were Journeys, but all with disk brakes in the front) that had this clunking noise when going over some irregularity in the road surface.  Raise the vehicle under the lower control arm.  Have some one hold the brakes, then see if you can get the clunk by rocking the wheel back & forth.  What I have encountered on these other vehicles (Some Chrysler products, others not) is that the sliding half of the calipers is banging back & forth against the stops.  So when you are on the brakes a bit it won't do it, because the extra drag will hold it against the one side.  It may be the slides or pins that are worn out, but in my case I needed to replace the calipers for other reasons anyway, and it stopped the noise.  (I do live in the "Rust Belt".)

You can go to the  dodge site and enter your vin and it will show all recalls and if they have been done or not . 

You can go to the  dodge site and enter your vin and it will show all recalls and if they have been done or not . 

You can go to the  dodge site and enter your vin and it will show all recalls and if they have been done or not .