bfurth

There should be two sensors (upstream and downstream).  Replace both, but keep in mind, this is only diagnostic work at this point.  Your catalytic converter may have failed as a result of the extraordinarily long spark plug change interval.  Start with the sensors, but be prepared for a new converter.

The OEM spark plugs are copper and have a 30,000 mile life. After that, the electrode has worn to a point that fuel economy starts to trail off and you risk incomplete combustion in the chamber (which will then start dumping unburnt fuel into your exhaust, and that will wreak havoc on your catalytic converter).  Don't replace them with anything but copper, and replace them when the engine is cold (do it in the morning on a weekend after it sits overnight) due to the metal header (hot metal is more malleable).  The plugs are about $2-$3 each.  Don't overtorque them (book calls for I think 25 ft-lbs, give or take), and make sure the rubber insert of your spark plug socket comes back out after you're done (that was a fun story... change plugs on a friend's car, then she had intermittent misfires for a year and a half).
 
The transmission fluid should have been changed at 60,000 miles for your use (effectively, it was a "fleet or taxi" vehicle), and then AGAIN at 120,000.
 
The 6-speed (62te) gearbox does not have a transmission fluid dip stick. The 4 speed does.
 
As far as the service tech and the internet go - I'd put a LOT more faith in the owner's manual for the service schedule.  There's a lot of good information out there, but there is also 10x more bad information as well.
 
One last point about transmission fluid changes - the first time I had it done on my van (2010 Chrysler T&T, same 6-speed as the Journey), it came out to about $135.  The cost of materials (I think it was 6-8 quarts of ATF+4, filter, and the bottle of RTV for the new gasket) was about $100 of that.  It's a lot of work for a low profit margin job.  And it's in the dealerships best interest for your vehicle to have a failing transmission after your powertrain warranty has expired (because then you either have to pay for a new gearbox, or - even better for them - buy a new vehicle).
 
As for FCA, yes, the same does apply to them, but to a lesser extent.  Fleet use vehicles have a 60k mile service interval for the transmission, which is still inside the powertrain warranty (or at least was when your vehicle was built).  Recommending that change at 60k is suggesting it is necessary to maintain proper function of the transmission for the life of the vehicle. But what do the engineers who designed these things know? Surely not as much as the dealership technicians (who are NOT FCA employees).

Wow, your starter had to be replaced?  I hope that your shop capped the power cables while the starter was disconnected. That's how you lose electrons!

Wow, your starter had to be replaced?  I hope that your shop capped the power cables while the starter was disconnected. That's how you lose electrons!

You could learn a lot from this guy.....   ^^

The OEM spark plugs are copper and have a 30,000 mile life. After that, the electrode has worn to a point that fuel economy starts to trail off and you risk incomplete combustion in the chamber (which will then start dumping unburnt fuel into your exhaust, and that will wreak havoc on your catalytic converter).  Don't replace them with anything but copper, and replace them when the engine is cold (do it in the morning on a weekend after it sits overnight) due to the metal header (hot metal is more malleable).  The plugs are about $2-$3 each.  Don't overtorque them (book calls for I think 25 ft-lbs, give or take), and make sure the rubber insert of your spark plug socket comes back out after you're done (that was a fun story... change plugs on a friend's car, then she had intermittent misfires for a year and a half).
 
The transmission fluid should have been changed at 60,000 miles for your use (effectively, it was a "fleet or taxi" vehicle), and then AGAIN at 120,000.
 
The 6-speed (62te) gearbox does not have a transmission fluid dip stick. The 4 speed does.
 
As far as the service tech and the internet go - I'd put a LOT more faith in the owner's manual for the service schedule.  There's a lot of good information out there, but there is also 10x more bad information as well.
 
One last point about transmission fluid changes - the first time I had it done on my van (2010 Chrysler T&T, same 6-speed as the Journey), it came out to about $135.  The cost of materials (I think it was 6-8 quarts of ATF+4, filter, and the bottle of RTV for the new gasket) was about $100 of that.  It's a lot of work for a low profit margin job.  And it's in the dealerships best interest for your vehicle to have a failing transmission after your powertrain warranty has expired (because then you either have to pay for a new gearbox, or - even better for them - buy a new vehicle).
 
As for FCA, yes, the same does apply to them, but to a lesser extent.  Fleet use vehicles have a 60k mile service interval for the transmission, which is still inside the powertrain warranty (or at least was when your vehicle was built).  Recommending that change at 60k is suggesting it is necessary to maintain proper function of the transmission for the life of the vehicle. But what do the engineers who designed these things know? Surely not as much as the dealership technicians (who are NOT FCA employees).

The OEM spark plugs are copper and have a 30,000 mile life. After that, the electrode has worn to a point that fuel economy starts to trail off and you risk incomplete combustion in the chamber (which will then start dumping unburnt fuel into your exhaust, and that will wreak havoc on your catalytic converter).  Don't replace them with anything but copper, and replace them when the engine is cold (do it in the morning on a weekend after it sits overnight) due to the metal header (hot metal is more malleable).  The plugs are about $2-$3 each.  Don't overtorque them (book calls for I think 25 ft-lbs, give or take), and make sure the rubber insert of your spark plug socket comes back out after you're done (that was a fun story... change plugs on a friend's car, then she had intermittent misfires for a year and a half).
 
The transmission fluid should have been changed at 60,000 miles for your use (effectively, it was a "fleet or taxi" vehicle), and then AGAIN at 120,000.
 
The 6-speed (62te) gearbox does not have a transmission fluid dip stick. The 4 speed does.
 
As far as the service tech and the internet go - I'd put a LOT more faith in the owner's manual for the service schedule.  There's a lot of good information out there, but there is also 10x more bad information as well.
 
One last point about transmission fluid changes - the first time I had it done on my van (2010 Chrysler T&T, same 6-speed as the Journey), it came out to about $135.  The cost of materials (I think it was 6-8 quarts of ATF+4, filter, and the bottle of RTV for the new gasket) was about $100 of that.  It's a lot of work for a low profit margin job.  And it's in the dealerships best interest for your vehicle to have a failing transmission after your powertrain warranty has expired (because then you either have to pay for a new gearbox, or - even better for them - buy a new vehicle).
 
As for FCA, yes, the same does apply to them, but to a lesser extent.  Fleet use vehicles have a 60k mile service interval for the transmission, which is still inside the powertrain warranty (or at least was when your vehicle was built).  Recommending that change at 60k is suggesting it is necessary to maintain proper function of the transmission for the life of the vehicle. But what do the engineers who designed these things know? Surely not as much as the dealership technicians (who are NOT FCA employees).

The OEM spark plugs are copper and have a 30,000 mile life. After that, the electrode has worn to a point that fuel economy starts to trail off and you risk incomplete combustion in the chamber (which will then start dumping unburnt fuel into your exhaust, and that will wreak havoc on your catalytic converter).  Don't replace them with anything but copper, and replace them when the engine is cold (do it in the morning on a weekend after it sits overnight) due to the metal header (hot metal is more malleable).  The plugs are about $2-$3 each.  Don't overtorque them (book calls for I think 25 ft-lbs, give or take), and make sure the rubber insert of your spark plug socket comes back out after you're done (that was a fun story... change plugs on a friend's car, then she had intermittent misfires for a year and a half).
 
The transmission fluid should have been changed at 60,000 miles for your use (effectively, it was a "fleet or taxi" vehicle), and then AGAIN at 120,000.
 
The 6-speed (62te) gearbox does not have a transmission fluid dip stick. The 4 speed does.
 
As far as the service tech and the internet go - I'd put a LOT more faith in the owner's manual for the service schedule.  There's a lot of good information out there, but there is also 10x more bad information as well.
 
One last point about transmission fluid changes - the first time I had it done on my van (2010 Chrysler T&T, same 6-speed as the Journey), it came out to about $135.  The cost of materials (I think it was 6-8 quarts of ATF+4, filter, and the bottle of RTV for the new gasket) was about $100 of that.  It's a lot of work for a low profit margin job.  And it's in the dealerships best interest for your vehicle to have a failing transmission after your powertrain warranty has expired (because then you either have to pay for a new gearbox, or - even better for them - buy a new vehicle).
 
As for FCA, yes, the same does apply to them, but to a lesser extent.  Fleet use vehicles have a 60k mile service interval for the transmission, which is still inside the powertrain warranty (or at least was when your vehicle was built).  Recommending that change at 60k is suggesting it is necessary to maintain proper function of the transmission for the life of the vehicle. But what do the engineers who designed these things know? Surely not as much as the dealership technicians (who are NOT FCA employees).

https://moparonlineparts.com/docs/82212736.pdf
 
Good luck.  I'd recommend using the actual wiring harness.  If you can't find one, I'd strongly recommend getting the wire gauge information from someone who does have it.  Electricity is not something to play with if you aren't well aware of what you're doing.  As for the correct wiring harness, you could always search for one at a junk yard.
 
The factory kit comes with two wiring harnesses - one for the lights, and the other to run from the lights to the BCM.

If you want to talk Journeys, stay here. If you want to talk about Mopar minivans, go here: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/forum.php.  Not sure if this violates any terms of service of this site to plug other forums, but they're not exactly competing for the same audience, and I happen to be semi-active on both.

If you want to talk Journeys, stay here. If you want to talk about Mopar minivans, go here: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/forum.php.  Not sure if this violates any terms of service of this site to plug other forums, but they're not exactly competing for the same audience, and I happen to be semi-active on both.

Put the vehicle on stands, remove the driver front tire, remove the wheel well cover, and disconnect the battery directly.

Put the vehicle on stands, remove the driver front tire, remove the wheel well cover, and disconnect the battery directly.

I don't have one, nor have I ever used one.  It also doesn't matter because every time I change the oil in my DJ (and my T&C), it's time for a tire rotation.
 
That being said:
You have to get under the DJ to change the filter (unless you have a 3.6L).  Either way, there is enough ground clearance with the DJ that I could change the oil without lifting the front end if I had to.  I'm 5'10", 220, and I can get far enough under the engine bay to change it from the ground.
 
Also, the change interval on the DJ is annual/10,000 miles/when the light says to change it (not likely before 5,000 miles).  It's almost always going to be time for a tire rotation when you need to change the oil.  If you don't care about uneven wear on the tires, get ramps.  That's going to be more effective than a pump.
 
My typical oil change on my 2015 DJ (2.4L) runs about $40 or less. That's using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 with a Purolator Boss filter.  I wouldn't bother changing the factory oil at 3,000 miles, but that's me.  There is nothing in the owner's manual (unless it's a new requirement for newer model years, which I doubt) about an early change for the factory fill.
 
Ramps will set you back $40 - that gets you a set of 12,000 pound rated ramps.  For the DJ, you could use just about anything to raise the front end up to an incline.  If you want to maintain a Pacifica (I assume the new minivan, not the old crossover), you would need to raise the front end to gain access to the drain bolt.  Throw in an oil drain container (pan + store 16 quarts of used oil) for $15.  If you want to perform tire rotations, get a 3-ton jack and stands (about $140 combined) and a torque wrench (not more than $80).  The price of 4 oil changes with tool purchase would be $380.  Compared to paying about the same for the first 4 anywhere else. After that? The tools are free.  And, as stated previously, you don't have to rotate tires if you don't care about uneven wear (I don't recommend that).
 
On a side note - Ultra Platinum is typically hit or miss when it comes to price. If Amazon and WalMart both have it in stock, it's $25 for a 5 quart jug. If only one of them has it in stock, it's $40 or more. As of 1:15 on 3/19/18, they both have it and it's cheap.

Backup camera, for the sake of backup only, usually gets installed on the backup light circuit.  That circuit is only ever live when the transmission is in reverse.
 
A dashboard camera, which is presumably intended to be on when the vehicle is on, should be tied to a circuit that is only ever live when the vehicle is in Accessory or Run.  Either the 12v port under the center stack or the 12v port inside the console (IF you switch the fuse to the correct position) fits that bill.

Put the vehicle on stands, remove the driver front tire, remove the wheel well cover, and disconnect the battery directly.

Backup camera, for the sake of backup only, usually gets installed on the backup light circuit.  That circuit is only ever live when the transmission is in reverse.
 
A dashboard camera, which is presumably intended to be on when the vehicle is on, should be tied to a circuit that is only ever live when the vehicle is in Accessory or Run.  Either the 12v port under the center stack or the 12v port inside the console (IF you switch the fuse to the correct position) fits that bill.

I don't have one, nor have I ever used one.  It also doesn't matter because every time I change the oil in my DJ (and my T&C), it's time for a tire rotation.
 
That being said:
You have to get under the DJ to change the filter (unless you have a 3.6L).  Either way, there is enough ground clearance with the DJ that I could change the oil without lifting the front end if I had to.  I'm 5'10", 220, and I can get far enough under the engine bay to change it from the ground.
 
Also, the change interval on the DJ is annual/10,000 miles/when the light says to change it (not likely before 5,000 miles).  It's almost always going to be time for a tire rotation when you need to change the oil.  If you don't care about uneven wear on the tires, get ramps.  That's going to be more effective than a pump.
 
My typical oil change on my 2015 DJ (2.4L) runs about $40 or less. That's using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 with a Purolator Boss filter.  I wouldn't bother changing the factory oil at 3,000 miles, but that's me.  There is nothing in the owner's manual (unless it's a new requirement for newer model years, which I doubt) about an early change for the factory fill.
 
Ramps will set you back $40 - that gets you a set of 12,000 pound rated ramps.  For the DJ, you could use just about anything to raise the front end up to an incline.  If you want to maintain a Pacifica (I assume the new minivan, not the old crossover), you would need to raise the front end to gain access to the drain bolt.  Throw in an oil drain container (pan + store 16 quarts of used oil) for $15.  If you want to perform tire rotations, get a 3-ton jack and stands (about $140 combined) and a torque wrench (not more than $80).  The price of 4 oil changes with tool purchase would be $380.  Compared to paying about the same for the first 4 anywhere else. After that? The tools are free.  And, as stated previously, you don't have to rotate tires if you don't care about uneven wear (I don't recommend that).
 
On a side note - Ultra Platinum is typically hit or miss when it comes to price. If Amazon and WalMart both have it in stock, it's $25 for a 5 quart jug. If only one of them has it in stock, it's $40 or more. As of 1:15 on 3/19/18, they both have it and it's cheap.

Instead of going the nuclear option (which may or may not work, and is likely to cause all sorts of other problems since the entire climate control system routes through the OEM radio), did you try finding the correct Hands Free Module part number from the dealership for your vehicle?
 
If it's a failed Bluetooth module (which they call the Hands Free Module), a "reboot" (which is caused by them disconnecting the battery) may have temporarily fixed it ("when in doubt, reboot").  If so, Try replacing it first (it's located behind the steering column).
 
If that doesn't fix it, then replace the OEM radio with another OEM radio. Those are pretty much the only components (other than the steering wheel button panel - btw, have you tried using the phone directly through the radio instead of just the steering wheel buttons?) involved in the hands free setup.  The final component failure assumption I'm making here (because you really didn't give a lot of information other than "it doesn't work") is a dead microphone, which would require replacement of the rear view mirror.
 
Also, and I truly hope you tried this before spending tons of money, did you delete the device pairing from both the radio AND the phone, then pair the phone to the radio again?
 
One last point - given the $600 price tag, my guess is they suspect a failed Hands Free Module (the part retails for ~$300, plus the hour and a half of labor it would likely take to get to it, replace it, and put the dashboard back together.  $600 doesn't get you a new radio head unit.
 
For reference sake, the part will look similar to this (this may or may not be the right part number for your particular vehicle - check with a dealer before you buy anything):
https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/Dodge_2013_JourneyFWD--36L-V6-24V-VVT--6-Speed-Automatic-62TESXT/MODULE-Telematics/10583090/68222278AA.html

Instead of going the nuclear option (which may or may not work, and is likely to cause all sorts of other problems since the entire climate control system routes through the OEM radio), did you try finding the correct Hands Free Module part number from the dealership for your vehicle?
 
If it's a failed Bluetooth module (which they call the Hands Free Module), a "reboot" (which is caused by them disconnecting the battery) may have temporarily fixed it ("when in doubt, reboot").  If so, Try replacing it first (it's located behind the steering column).
 
If that doesn't fix it, then replace the OEM radio with another OEM radio. Those are pretty much the only components (other than the steering wheel button panel - btw, have you tried using the phone directly through the radio instead of just the steering wheel buttons?) involved in the hands free setup.  The final component failure assumption I'm making here (because you really didn't give a lot of information other than "it doesn't work") is a dead microphone, which would require replacement of the rear view mirror.
 
Also, and I truly hope you tried this before spending tons of money, did you delete the device pairing from both the radio AND the phone, then pair the phone to the radio again?
 
One last point - given the $600 price tag, my guess is they suspect a failed Hands Free Module (the part retails for ~$300, plus the hour and a half of labor it would likely take to get to it, replace it, and put the dashboard back together.  $600 doesn't get you a new radio head unit.
 
For reference sake, the part will look similar to this (this may or may not be the right part number for your particular vehicle - check with a dealer before you buy anything):
https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/Dodge_2013_JourneyFWD--36L-V6-24V-VVT--6-Speed-Automatic-62TESXT/MODULE-Telematics/10583090/68222278AA.html

Check with your local library system. You might be surprised with what you can find.  The Carrol County library in Maryland has a subscription to Auto Repair Reference Center (arrc.ebscohost.com) with a vast store of information on most makes/models/years, which effectively includes more or less complete factory service manuals.  The most recent DJ it has listed is the 2014, but there haven't been any groundbreaking changes since then. While physically in some branches, they have access to ALLDATA Repair (the same thing you're talking about with an annual subscription, but paid for through your tax dollars and available for everyone).

The 3-button FOBIK that was standard on the 2009 Journey (and was also the same FOBIK used for the Grand Caravan/Town and Country, and a few other vehicles) absolutely has a battery in it. If your key looks like the one here (http://www.amazon.com/KeylessOption-Replacement-Ignition-Keyless-Transmitter/dp/B00KTHZZ3Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448060300&sr=8-2&keywords=2009+dodge+journey+key), it has a battery and your source of information is lying to you.

I'll vouch for this.  The site is legitimate, I bought a Mopar factory extended lifetime warranty for my 2015 DJ through them, and at a lower cost than it can be obtained elsewhere.

Front heater core is around $100 on RockAuto (I'm sure OEM is more).  You would also need a coolant flush (DIY, assume another $50 in coolant and distilled water).  Heater core replacement for the Journey is in the neighborhood of 5.5 - 6 hours of labor.  If you have to pay full cost, expect a repair bill around $800 - $900.
 
Did you ever add coolant to your Journey?  If so, did you make sure to add the right type?  Dealer is probably going to ask the same thing, because while a leaking core could just happen, it probably doesn't (depending on what failed).
 
The first (real) step in removing the front HVAC assembly is to drain and recover the refrigerant from your cooling system.  Based on that alone, this is not really a DIY job.
 
Talk to your local dealer, and talk to Dodge Cares - that's a VERY premature failure on a part that can be reasonably assumed to last the life of the vehicle.

Is coolant lower than you would expect given the current ambient temperature range?
 
Have you checked the condition of your engine oil?  If it has an appearance similar to chocolate milk, it would be a head gasket failure (not necessarily a job you can't DIY, but depending on your skill set, one that might need to be paid for).