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12s with AWD have bigger brakes


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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Line code NDR Part number 551964A Description Brake Rotor Only - Rear - Ultra Premium Attribute Grooved/Non-Grooved:Non-Grooved,# of Bolt Holes:5,Bolt Circle Diameter:127 mm/5",Diameter:328 mm/12.92",Thickness When New:12 mm/.473",Discard Thickness:10.4 mm/.410",Center Hole Diameter:72.5 mm/2.86",Height:33.2 mm/1.31",Vented / Solid:Solid Comment w/ 328mm Rotors Warranty 24 Months or 36, 000 Kilometers. Whichever Occurs First. Add item to shopping list

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This is for new 2013 models

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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Line code NDR Part number 48880623 Description Brake Rotor Only - Rear - Premium Attribute # of Bolt Holes:5,Bolt Circle Diameter:127 mm/5",Diameter:304.9 mm/12.01",Thickness When New:12 mm/0.48",Discard Thickness:10.4 mm/0.41",Center Hole Diameter:72.5 mm/2.86",Height:33.1 mm/1.31",Vented / Solid:Solid Comment Details in store Warranty 18 Months or 24,000 KMs. Add item to shopping list

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This is for 2012 models

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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Line code NDR Part number 488821366 Description Brake Rotor Only - Front - Premium Attribute # of Bolt Holes:5,Bolt Circle Diameter:127 mm/5",Diameter:330 mm/13",Thickness When New:28 mm/1.103",Discard Thickness:26.4 mm/1.04",Center Hole Diameter:72.5 mm/2.86",Height:38.1 mm/1.5",Vented / Solid:Vented Comment Details in store Warranty 18 Months or 24,000 KMs. Add item to shopping list

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This is for the 2013 CREW model

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  • 2 months later...

Frogbox,

I just did an online part number comparison and came up with a different answer than you did. Based on the numbers from factorychrylslerparts.com, the calipers, brackets, axles and hubs are the same between the 2011s and 2013s, but the knuckles, rotors and pads are different. I noticed there are differences in the caliper part numbers between ABS and non-ABS. This was just off the one site, so a trip to the dealer would be in order to verify the numbers. If it were just the calipers the brackets, it would be a breeze to swap. Knuckles makes it more expensive...

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I'm not sure what diagrams you were looking at, but I just did a parts comparison between 2011 & 2013 Dodge Journeys on the same factorychryslerparts.com site and here is the list I came up with:

Sources:

2011 parts

2013 parts

Part Part number 2011 Part number 2013

Caliper Left 68003707AA 68144161AA

Caliper right 68003697AA 68144160AA

Rotors 68032944AB 04779712AA

Adapters 68038077AA 68159578AA

Clearly very different part numbers. The knuckles also have different part numbers and you are right, that would make the swap much more expensive. BUT, the only difference in the part number is the 2 letter suffix. The main number is the same. That usually means a revision on a part, not a different part altogether. I am pretty sure the knuckles do not need to be changed.

The rotors are larger, so definitely are different. The adapters have to be different as they determine the placement of the calipers. The larger the rotor, the further away from the center of the rotor they have to be, so would certainly have to be larger too. Theoretically, the pads could be the same. But since the calipers have different part numbers, the pads may not fit in the new calipers.

I will make a trip to my local dealer to confirm the parts. I want to do the swap in the next few months. Once I have the parts, I will document the swap with pictures and a definitive list of parts.

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Well, went in for an oil change today and the dealer told me my rear brakes are almost shot at 36,000 miles. I've only towed a handful of times, and 80%+ of my driving is interstate with the cruise control on - very little braking. AND I use the auto stick religiously to engine brake going downgrades, etc.

i've had other SUVs that I've gotten over 60,000 miles on the brakes with far more frequent towing of my boat - I just don't seem to do much fishing any more.

At any rate I'm pissed about it. Dealer service rep told me the rear calipers are prone to hanging and premature wear, but didn't offer me any break on the price - and I have the extended warranty too! Wanted $300 for just the rear brakes.

Powerstop makes a rear sloltted rotor kit for $130 with pads AND rotors. Brakes are fairly easy to change. How do these work?

And should I complain to Chyrsler about it? Is there any TSBs for the brakes? I think it's ridiculous - the brakes seem clearly under-designed for the car - and the 2013 brake calipers look noticeably larger than my vehicle's. I've never gotten so few miles out of a set of brakes -when I traded in my 2008 Rabbit for this vehicle, it had over 90,000 miles on the original front and rear pads.

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Jay,

Welcome to the Journey experience. Yes, complain to Customer Care. Hopefully they will help you out. As for the Powerstop, sorry,I have no experience with them.

Frogbox,

My bad, you are correct. There are two sets of calipers and adapters listed for the 2013 model year, the same ones from 2011 and the new set. In the detailed description the 2011's say "antilock" while the new ones don't, which is what misled me. Looking on the fitment chart for the new caliper number, it only fits 2012 and 2013, indicating they are the new calipers and adapters. However, it's probably not that simple a swap as the module for the hydraulic control unit is different as I'm sure is the software for the stability control. I think the only real cost effective option is to just try and find the best quality rotors and pads.

Edited by klug
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, I'm going to give it a try. I found a wrecked 2013 journey and I'm getting the calipers, adapters, pads & rotors for $150. Not a lot to spend to experiment. If it works, I'll post up more info. If it doesn't, I can always sell the parts on E-bay. I pick up the parts next weekend and hope to do the conversion on Monday September 23rd.

Stay tuned.

Edited by FROGBOX
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Wow so much to read here about brakes. I have a 2010 SXT AWD. Ive only had it for about 2 months. I dont have any brake problems yet but when I do I want to do them right with bigger rotors slotted and drilled, better calipers and use ceramic pads. Im hoping to be able to accomplish this but not sure yet. I havent even done any research on it yet. All ive read here has been talk about 2011 and newer.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Frogbox,

I have an RT 13/13 and the part number for the front PADS is 68144163AE. I aslo have an 2011 SXT and comparing the size the RT one is huge. The same used on the new grand caravan.

For my 2011 SXT whuch us "eating" the PADS on every 15k. I'm planning to by a Centric kit with ceramic pads called posi quiet. I have a friend which did and is very happy about.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Since Chrysler indeed upgraded the brakes on the Journeys mid-model year 2012, it seems like confirmation of what many of us have already discovered - the brakes on 2011 and early 2012 Journeys are clearly under-designed. I wonder if we should file complaints, or possibly a class action suit? I'm still not pleased that the REAR brakes wore out at 36,000 miles - especially since interstate/expressway/open highway is the majority of my driving. For comparison, my 2008 VW Rabbit, which I traded in FOR the Journey, still had the original factory brakes at 91,000 miles front and rear. My guess is the fronts will be shot by mid 40s - they already vibrate badly when slowing from expressway speeds.

Edited by Jay Sixspeedrt
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Considering that the design of the Journey has not changed since 2011 the bigger brakes from mid 2012's and up is definitely an admission of guilt IMO. I did my own replacement of rear pads at 36,000 KM so at least I took the joy away from the dealer to make extra money off the premature wear.

Edited by Journey_SeXT
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Premature wear on the pads is a combination of 2 things. First is a soft compound in the pad material. It is great for stopping power, but not so good for longevity. Notice how much brake dust gets thrown on these wheels? That's from the soft pads wearing so quickly. Throw a good set of ceramic pads and they will last much longer.

The second reason is that the rear pads can get stuck if they are not serviced. The pads ride in a pair of stainless steel clips. The clips are supposed to be corrosion resistant and allow the pad to move freely in the channel. That's why they are stainless. Unfortunately with this design is the clips sit on a steel bracket. That steel can rust, or gunk can build up in between the bracket and the clip. This pushes on the the clips from underneath and away from the bracket and squeezes the pads. This prevents them from sliding smoothly within the channel of the clip. So basically, the pads are not given the freedom to slide away from the rotor when the brakes are released and they maintain a very slight amount of pressure against the rotor. This slight pressure is not enough to slow you down or place a significant drag on the vehicle, but will still wear out the pads over several thousand miles. How may of us as kids wore holes in the bottom of our shoes from dragging our feet on the ground when riding a bicycle? Same principle. We barely put enough pressure on the ground to slow down, but we still wore out our shoes.

When I did my rear brakes (at 37,000 km) last month, I had to use a pry bar to remove the pads. They should almost fall out on their own when the caliper is removed. I removed the clips, used a file to remove the rust buildup under the clips, and applied some anti sieze to the bracket before reinstalling the clip. The new pads were very loose in the clips upon reinstallation. If the calipers, pads and clips are removed and lubricated once a year, they would last longer. Its not difficult to do and can be done when rotating the tires. It takes 5 min per side once the wheels are off.

Edited by FROGBOX
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  • 3 months later...

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