Odd p0365 on my 2017 l4 2.4 dodge journey

[Lar Williams]

Hello everyone, I got an odd problem and could use some advice. I got a 2017 L4 2.4 dodge journey that shows an intermittent p0365 code. Some of those times, traction control is turned off automatically. I've checked the wiring and see no issues with it, no driveability issues when it doesnt turn traction control off. No unusual noise or other issues. Oil changed and checked, new oem front/intake camshaft position sensor. Obd readings from it look normal, with only 2.8 degrees crank difference reported. 

Something odd I've noticed is that occasionally the readings of the rear/exhaust camshaft position sensor shows a crank difference of over 5800 degrees. This seems quite impossible and there's seemingly nothing in the dodge service manual that suggests this should occur.

Has anyone else seen this and could the rear sensor seemingly trigger a code that is associated with the front sensor?

[5rebel9]

Well... the code is for the exhaust camshaft sensor, and you stated that you replaced the Intake camshaft sensor.....

 Both these sensors AND the crankshaft sensor work together to provide the needed timing info to the computer.

The crankshaft sensor is the more common part failure of the 3, IF yours is over 100k miles, I'd consider doing all 3 as on the 2.4 not that hard to do.

Also be sure to use oem or NTK brand parts, these motors are pretty picky on part quality. AND you may need to do a "relearn procedure or automatically with a high end scanner.

Edited September 24, 2025 by 5rebel9

[Lar Williams]

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Well... the code is for the exhaust camshaft sensor, and you stated that you replaced the Intake camshaft sensor.....

 Both these sensors AND the crankshaft sensor work together to provide the needed timing info to the computer.

The crankshaft sensor is the more common part failure of the 3, IF yours is over 100k miles, I'd consider doing all 3 as on the 2.4 not that hard to do.

Also be sure to use oem or NTK brand parts, these motors are pretty picky on part quality. AND you may need to do a "relearn procedure or automatically with a high end scanner.

Mine is just over 85000km (just under 53k miles). Thanks for the info. What's weird is that every video I found on YouTube for the same motor calls the intake sensor "B". I double checked with the Torque app, and it reports p0365 as being related to the B sensor as well. Sounds like this may be a case of people sharing bad info in the videos, Even the Google results are conflicting (AI Overview states that B is the exhaust sensor, while some of the top results state its the intake).

 

The intake and crank difference seems to be within spec, so I'll probably just check and replace the exhaust cam sensor for now and see how it goes.

 

When I'm doing stuff like this myself, I always make sure to stick to OEM (I figure if I'm saving money on labour, I can spare it for known decent part).

 

Thanks for your help!

[Lar Williams]

An update: replaced the exhaust camshaft sensor too, cleared codes, and did the relearn again (did it previously after mistakenly replacing the intake camshaft position sensor). Unfortunately it didn't help. After driving for a few minutes, it went back into limp mode with traction control off and p0365 came back.

 

Something I've noticed is that the front/intake camshaft sensor/crank difference is always steady around 2.9 degrees, but the rear/exhaust camshaft/crank difference is not. It is around 1.4 degrees when stopped (regardless of gear), but when I start driving, it goes up to over 5800 degrees. It immediately goes back down as soon as I stop. This seems like a very implausible number.

 

Why would the intake and crankshaft position sensor seem to line up, yet the exhaust and crankshaft position sensor be so wildly apart?

 

Any thoughts?

[Dean H]

P0365 CMP SENSOR CIRCUIT-

BANK 1 SENSOR 2

 

 

 

[Lar Williams]

Still dealing with this issue. Took it to the nearest Dodge dealer. They assumed it was an issue with the cam crank relearn process that was performed, did it again themselves, cleared the code, and sent me on my way after a $270 (Canadian) bill. I was skeptical about this "solution" and after an hour of driving, the issue returned.

 

Anyone have any thoughts about the item I mentioned earlier:

 

Something I've noticed is that the front/intake camshaft sensor/crank difference is always steady around 2.9 degrees, but the rear/exhaust camshaft/crank difference is not. It is around 1.4 degrees when stopped (regardless of gear), but when I start driving, it goes up to over 5800 degrees. It immediately goes back down as soon as I stop. This seems like a very implausible number.

 

[5rebel9]

You originally posted of also changing the oil, how many miles are on the car and quite possible the oil control solenoid for the exhaust cam phaser/ gear may be sticking after your driving a while. This is just "spitballing" on my part, as I can't see the car or know of it's overall condition. 

HANG IN THERE, somehow hopefully this forum can help you lick this problem!

[Lar Williams]

85000km (around 52800 miles). Ive been doing the oil changes when it prompts me too.

[5rebel9]

At that info, I doubt oil sludging to the OCS. BUT was there any noticeable sludge on the cam sensors when you changed them???

Most all the regulars here swear to doing oil changes at the 5k mile interval whether it be the 2.4 or 3.6 

I would take a good hard look at the wire ends inside the plastic connector for the exhaust cam sensor.

[Lar Williams]

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

At that info, I doubt oil sludging to the OCS. BUT was there any noticeable sludge on the cam sensors when you changed them???

Most all the regulars here swear to doing oil changes at the 5k mile interval whether it be the 2.4 or 3.6 

I would take a good hard look at the wire ends inside the plastic connector for the exhaust cam sensor.

The sensors looked pretty clean when I took em out - just the normal oil where it would be.

 

im definitely thinking that there's a wiring related cause here. I mentioned it when I had it into the dealer today, but it seems they didn't bother checking that at all (work order just says "cleared codes. Performed cam relearn. Test drove. Codes didnt come back").  It makes sense because it seems to be quite random - i haven't noticed anything specific when it happens. During the times when it doesnt cause limp mode, I dont notice any odd stuff when driving (no weird noises, acceleration is normal, plenty of power for a 2.4).

 

I did take a quick look at the connector when I was replacing the sensor to make sure there was no corrosion or dirt. It looked fine, but perhaps there's an issue with one of the wires.

 

I'm going to be calling the dealer in the morning to let them know that I want them to actually debug and fix the issue. Not just emulate me and hope something fixes it haha

 

If it wasnt cold and dark in the evenings now after work, id probably be more eager to do it myself. I did something similar last year, when the passenger impact sensor on the front when bad (water got in and corroded the hell out of the pins in the sensor and the connector itself). Ended up cutting out the old connector, building a new one, and installing a new oem sensor from rockauto.

 

 

Edited October 2, 2025 by Lar Williams

[John/Horace]

Some of these sensors only have 6 volts controlling them. Any slightly green metal connections or plugs not seated well can drop voltage. I wonder what a bi directional scanner would turn up for sensors/wire harness. Something weird with the angle measurement. Dealer didn’t do much for their money, looking for easy way out.

 

An hour and it acts up, after full heat cycle. Could be OCV like 5 rebel9 mentioned, there are fine screens inside that could sludge up (bi directional might show something). Another possibility is the crank position sensor, they can fail intermittently from heat/vibration and don’t always store code. A wear item by 100k ish. Works closely with cam sensors. Fairly cheap and easy to change, use NTK or dealer oem part. 
 

Its not parts cannon territory if a $35 wear item that can strand you. Mopar Canada Online beats dealer prices.

 

[luzmina]

You can try replacing the oil pressure switch, My 2.4 throw some random codes, I do not recall the numbers, but after replacing the oil pressure switch it stop, I use a after market from ebay. I replaced it because it was leaking oil.

oil pressure switch

Edited October 2, 2025 by luzmina

[Lar Williams]

12 hours ago, John/Horace said:

Some of these sensors only have 6 volts controlling them. Any slightly green metal connections or plugs not seated well can drop voltage. I wonder what a bi directional scanner would turn up for sensors/wire harness. Something weird with the angle measurement. Dealer didn’t do much for their money, looking for easy way out.

 

An hour and it acts up, after full heat cycle. Could be OCV like 5 rebel9 mentioned, there are fine screens inside that could sludge up (bi directional might show something). Another possibility is the crank position sensor, they can fail intermittently from heat/vibration and don’t always store code. A wear item by 100k ish. Works closely with cam sensors. Fairly cheap and easy to change, use NTK or dealer oem part. 
 

Its not parts cannon territory if a $35 wear item that can strand you. Mopar Canada Online beats dealer prices.

 

Both of the connectors looked clean when I changed out the camshaft sensors, but I know that doesn't mean there isn't an internal or wiring issue.

 

As for the dealer, yep they definitely didn't do crap haha. I told em that the cam crank relearn had already been done, but they insisted because "maybe the previous attempt didn't take". I knew they were likely full of crap, but wanted to give them a little bit of rope to see if they would try to hang themselves.

 

It looks like there are a number of things that can cause this issue on the 2.4 (I posted elsewhere and someone mentioned that they had the same issue, and was only fixed once the cam phasers were replaced). Going through the paperwork for this vehicle, I remembered that I paid for an aftermarket warranty that includes pretty much all of the engine components and its still valid. As much as I like to tinker and DIY, I think I am throwing in the towel and letting someone more experienced with this stuff take care of.

 

I'll follow up once it is resolved and share the outcome so it can possibly help someone else going forward.

[Lar Williams]

I ended up bringing it back to the dealer and it is still there. They claim that they've now checked over everything that they normally would, including the wiring, and determined that there is a fault with the engine computer itself. A new one is on order and should arrive sometime next week. Hopefully swapping it out fixes it.

 

I'll follow up again next week after I get it back and have a day or 2 of driving (which has normally been plenty of time to trigger the issue after the check engine light goes off).

[5rebel9]

Will be watching for your update..... I'm about to put my project '13 4 banger on the road late next week. the other 2 DJ's and the one I sold off this last Spring were the 3.6 awd versions. I've got some engine/ quirk learning to to!

Edited October 3, 2025 by 5rebel9

[Lar Williams]

I got my Journey back the previous Wednesday and they replaced the ECM. Since then, there have been no further occurrences of this issue (when prior to replacement, it was a daily problem). I think it's safe to safe that replacing the ECM has resolved it.