Lar Williams

I'm preparing to add automatic headlight functionality to my 2017 Journey. I have the needed switches, sensors, etc. Just curious: for those of you who've done this before and added the sun sensor to the dash (replacing the bump), where did you find the wiring when you removed the grill piece from the dash? Some reports say it was just taped on right next to the slot for the sensor, others say it was taped onto the wiring harness for the steering wheel itself, and others say it was behind the passenger glove compartment. When I replaced swapped the 4.3 radio for a 8.4N/RB5 radio recently, I checked around in behind it to see if it was stuffed around there somewhere (didn't want to find out it had gotten put down there somehow and have to rip out the radio later).

I'm using an aftermarket backup camera with RCA/composite. I ended up finding an aftermarket metra wiring harness (71-6502-1) that I can use with some custom wiring in between. Based on what I've read, this should work as long as I wire it up correctly and activate the backup camera functionality via AlfaOBD.

Hello! I recently upgraded the 4.3 radio in my 2017 Journey to the 8.4 RB5 I found at a junkyard (it was in a 2015 Journey) - same as the one linked below. It works great. Unfortunately I forgot to take the black connector (looks to be 22 pin?) that goes into the back of the radio for the camera and I want to wire in my aftermarket camera (it is currently connected to a cheap android screen using RCA). When I went back to the junkyard today, the donor Journey was gone and the rest only had the 4.3 radio. I'm searching for one online, but the only possible match I see is https://infotainment.com/shop/interior-accessories/wiring/c-intc3t/ I'm sure that cable is great, but I'd rather not spend $75 on it. Has anyone else done this upgrade and found a cheaper compatible option? I tried Amazon and eBay, but the search functions on both are just awful and try to guess what I meant. Despite entering "rb5 camera adapter", the results are flooded with seemingly unrelated cables for the older non-nav models.

After my Journey was recently in the garage for a p0365 and having a rental with a nicer radio and some other functionality (such as automatic headlights and automatic climate control), I'd decided to try to give my Journey the OEM upgrades for those functions. After checking with all of the used auto parts stores and junkyards, I managed to get the climate control (and the related temp sensor), the auto headlight control (and sun sensor), and a HB5 radio. The only parts I couldn't get are the 8" screen itself and the bezel/panel for it. I assume that the 4.3" screen won't work with the RB5? If not, are there any other Dodge vehicles that use the same screen and bezel/panel?

I got my Journey back the previous Wednesday and they replaced the ECM. Since then, there have been no further occurrences of this issue (when prior to replacement, it was a daily problem). I think it's safe to safe that replacing the ECM has resolved it.

I ended up bringing it back to the dealer and it is still there. They claim that they've now checked over everything that they normally would, including the wiring, and determined that there is a fault with the engine computer itself. A new one is on order and should arrive sometime next week. Hopefully swapping it out fixes it. I'll follow up again next week after I get it back and have a day or 2 of driving (which has normally been plenty of time to trigger the issue after the check engine light goes off).

Both of the connectors looked clean when I changed out the camshaft sensors, but I know that doesn't mean there isn't an internal or wiring issue. As for the dealer, yep they definitely didn't do crap haha. I told em that the cam crank relearn had already been done, but they insisted because "maybe the previous attempt didn't take". I knew they were likely full of crap, but wanted to give them a little bit of rope to see if they would try to hang themselves. It looks like there are a number of things that can cause this issue on the 2.4 (I posted elsewhere and someone mentioned that they had the same issue, and was only fixed once the cam phasers were replaced). Going through the paperwork for this vehicle, I remembered that I paid for an aftermarket warranty that includes pretty much all of the engine components and its still valid. As much as I like to tinker and DIY, I think I am throwing in the towel and letting someone more experienced with this stuff take care of. I'll follow up once it is resolved and share the outcome so it can possibly help someone else going forward.

The sensors looked pretty clean when I took em out - just the normal oil where it would be. im definitely thinking that there's a wiring related cause here. I mentioned it when I had it into the dealer today, but it seems they didn't bother checking that at all (work order just says "cleared codes. Performed cam relearn. Test drove. Codes didnt come back"). It makes sense because it seems to be quite random - i haven't noticed anything specific when it happens. During the times when it doesnt cause limp mode, I dont notice any odd stuff when driving (no weird noises, acceleration is normal, plenty of power for a 2.4). I did take a quick look at the connector when I was replacing the sensor to make sure there was no corrosion or dirt. It looked fine, but perhaps there's an issue with one of the wires. I'm going to be calling the dealer in the morning to let them know that I want them to actually debug and fix the issue. Not just emulate me and hope something fixes it haha If it wasnt cold and dark in the evenings now after work, id probably be more eager to do it myself. I did something similar last year, when the passenger impact sensor on the front when bad (water got in and corroded the hell out of the pins in the sensor and the connector itself). Ended up cutting out the old connector, building a new one, and installing a new oem sensor from rockauto.

85000km (around 52800 miles). Ive been doing the oil changes when it prompts me too.

Still dealing with this issue. Took it to the nearest Dodge dealer. They assumed it was an issue with the cam crank relearn process that was performed, did it again themselves, cleared the code, and sent me on my way after a $270 (Canadian) bill. I was skeptical about this "solution" and after an hour of driving, the issue returned. Anyone have any thoughts about the item I mentioned earlier: Something I've noticed is that the front/intake camshaft sensor/crank difference is always steady around 2.9 degrees, but the rear/exhaust camshaft/crank difference is not. It is around 1.4 degrees when stopped (regardless of gear), but when I start driving, it goes up to over 5800 degrees. It immediately goes back down as soon as I stop. This seems like a very implausible number.

An update: replaced the exhaust camshaft sensor too, cleared codes, and did the relearn again (did it previously after mistakenly replacing the intake camshaft position sensor). Unfortunately it didn't help. After driving for a few minutes, it went back into limp mode with traction control off and p0365 came back. Something I've noticed is that the front/intake camshaft sensor/crank difference is always steady around 2.9 degrees, but the rear/exhaust camshaft/crank difference is not. It is around 1.4 degrees when stopped (regardless of gear), but when I start driving, it goes up to over 5800 degrees. It immediately goes back down as soon as I stop. This seems like a very implausible number. Why would the intake and crankshaft position sensor seem to line up, yet the exhaust and crankshaft position sensor be so wildly apart? Any thoughts?

Mine is just over 85000km (just under 53k miles). Thanks for the info. What's weird is that every video I found on YouTube for the same motor calls the intake sensor "B". I double checked with the Torque app, and it reports p0365 as being related to the B sensor as well. Sounds like this may be a case of people sharing bad info in the videos, Even the Google results are conflicting (AI Overview states that B is the exhaust sensor, while some of the top results state its the intake). The intake and crank difference seems to be within spec, so I'll probably just check and replace the exhaust cam sensor for now and see how it goes. When I'm doing stuff like this myself, I always make sure to stick to OEM (I figure if I'm saving money on labour, I can spare it for known decent part). Thanks for your help!

Hello everyone, I got an odd problem and could use some advice. I got a 2017 L4 2.4 dodge journey that shows an intermittent p0365 code. Some of those times, traction control is turned off automatically. I've checked the wiring and see no issues with it, no driveability issues when it doesnt turn traction control off. No unusual noise or other issues. Oil changed and checked, new oem front/intake camshaft position sensor. Obd readings from it look normal, with only 2.8 degrees crank difference reported. Something odd I've noticed is that occasionally the readings of the rear/exhaust camshaft position sensor shows a crank difference of over 5800 degrees. This seems quite impossible and there's seemingly nothing in the dodge service manual that suggests this should occur. Has anyone else seen this and could the rear sensor seemingly trigger a code that is associated with the front sensor?

The closest translation is "Reversing rectifier". I'm assuming it's just the literal meaning of the product name.

Nope it's all aftermarket - it has a 4.3 screen and the dealer claimed it cannot be activated for an OEM rear camera without a swap of the screen and stuff. So I didn't want to deal with that extra hassle - just an aftermarket camera and screen triggered and powered by the reverse light. Apparently voltage is a common issue on these, so hopefully the above will work.

Looks like I might need a 12v capacitor to help. Got this on order from https://www.amazon.ca/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A04530092C4PW5WIWFIU6&url=%2FRectifier-Keenso-Capacitor-Filter-Connector%2Fdp%2FB07KFJVC5J%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2_sspa%3Fdchild%3D1%26keywords%3D12v%2Bcapacitor%26qid%3D1627516694%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26psc%3D1%26smid%3DA1PQ66J882YM3A&qualifier=1627516694&id=1902135227631113&widgetName=sp_atf and see if it helps

Unfortunately not - I was very careful and tested and researched the wiring before starting. I'm out of ideas for now and hoping I figure it out.

And thanks I just bought her last month for below market value (just over 15k with 33000 on her). Hoping to get several good years out of her

Yep I am. Unfortunately it’s a cheap Chinese one that came with barely any instructions. It works if I don’t run the power off the reverse light- it’s only when I try to get 12v from the reverse light that it doesn’t work. It goes crazy lol cutting in and out, and it getting a stable sync. The only difference is the power source, which tells me it’s a power issue.

I just bought an used 2017 Dodge Journey (Canada Value Package) that didn't have a backup camera or the 8.4 head unit. Rather than mess around with finding one, the OEM camera and wiring it all up, I decided to grab an aftermarket camera that slots into the drivers side license plate light (typical RCA cable, black ground and red power wire design). Removing the trim and stuff went well, but for some reason, the reverse light circuit doesn't appear to be providing sufficient voltage. The camera doesn't send a consistent signal when wired in and grounded properly. However if I pull power from one of the cigarette lighters, it works well - with the obvious loss of reverse shifting on/off control. The reverse bulbs are not the LED version (they are P27/7W). I figured I'd ask here before spending more time on it. Are there any other ways to wire it that will allow it to be controlled by the reverse position? I see some posts talking about fuse F107, but it's not clear if that's active regardless of whether the Journey came with a factory camera or not, and if it is reverse controlled.