dhh3

just for kicks i check lkq parts and 3.6 with about 51k goes for about $1800. U.S. then you have labor charges and extras.... and as usually you are buying a pig in a poke as you dont really know how great the used engine is compared to a rebuilt or new but is a lot cheaper.

Ok, you say its noisy.  I got that.  Hows is it running?  Hows your mpg? Are you leaking anything?  I drove my Bronco with one bad cylinder for two years before I swapped the engine out.  Bide your time if all seems well but the noise.  My 09 with the 3.5 has been noisy since day one.  Maybe it always has been but now you notice it more because you know you were low on oil......

I have an appointment with the dealer for a technician to diagnose the engine. I've been checking the oil level to make sure it's not dropping.  Wasn't able to get the dipstick out tonight, not sure why? Engine was still hot so maybe I can get it out in the am. 
I am driving it as little as possible until I get a diagnosis. 
 

I see a lot more car washes in your future!

x2.  Where are the signatures?

I see a lot more car washes in your future!

My extended warranty was rolled into my payment.  That being said, you should have still had the use of your brakes; albeit without power assist.  If you couldn't steer, the electronics would have had to put it in Park, which would lock the transmission.  You didn't mention the sounds of the transmission self destruction, so I doubt if this was the case.  You should have still been able to steer the car without power steering.  You need to finish your story.
Did you drift to a stop in the lane that you were in?
Did you try to restart the car?
Did any dash lights come on?
You need to bring the car someplace that has a code reader to see if any codes were thrown.  This will begin your search.
Could be as simple as a loose ground wire, but this, in itself, becomes a wild goose chase.

I see a lot more car washes in your future!

My extended warranty was rolled into my payment.  That being said, you should have still had the use of your brakes; albeit without power assist.  If you couldn't steer, the electronics would have had to put it in Park, which would lock the transmission.  You didn't mention the sounds of the transmission self destruction, so I doubt if this was the case.  You should have still been able to steer the car without power steering.  You need to finish your story.
Did you drift to a stop in the lane that you were in?
Did you try to restart the car?
Did any dash lights come on?
You need to bring the car someplace that has a code reader to see if any codes were thrown.  This will begin your search.
Could be as simple as a loose ground wire, but this, in itself, becomes a wild goose chase.

I see a lot more car washes in your future!

x2.  Where are the signatures?

So I have them on now.  Handling has improved maybe not by much but there's a difference. Even going over train tracks I notice the journey is smooth.  It doesn't stick out a heck of a lot which is good. In my opinion I think it's perfect

If you want to know whether it was truly dry all you need to do is know how much oil you added to get it to the 'full' line and subtract that from the engine capacity.

If there was no 'oil' light the obvious questions are:

1. Why not?  Doesn't it come one with the ignition and before the engine starts?  Maybe the low oil was simply unelated to the problem and something else caused the noise.
2. What did the garage say about the fact that there was no indication of a low oil condition when he found that the dipstick was dry?
 
You may be able to get 50,000 miles or more out of it even with the noisy engine.  It depends on what's actually making the noise.  I don't disagree with the sentiment regarding not using a dealer;  but the mechanic you choose has to be good AND honest.  That combination is less common than it should be.

Good luck.

Make sure the oil is full. My opinion, take it to a dealer so you can get a mopar tech diagnosis. The noise could be the exhaust manifold gasket or something unrelated as bram suggests.  The lack of engine symptoms says to me that this could be coincidental.  If the dealer says you need a new engine, drive it to a mechanic you trust (no harm in driving it if you need a new engine anyway), and have a used engine installed there.  Lightly used engines are fairly inexpensive.  Best of luck to you. 
 
Peace.

Leave the FOB hidden in the car.  Use the black lock button on the outside door handle to lock all the doors.  It will take 3 times for the DJ to "agree".  On the third attempt, the DJ will lock and the alarm will arm.  When you come back, you can unlock with the metal key.  The alarm will sound until you press unlock on the FOB.  I do this when I go surfing.  Baggie won't suffice for that.  I had a completely metal key made at ACE hardware.  Works fine.  If you're really nervous about theft, use a steering wheel club.  I don't worry.  Our DJs are nice, but they ain't no Hellcat that someone would work especially hard to steal.
 
Peace.

Put the fob in a baggie and take it with you.

Hi All,
 
Couldn't fit my whole question in the title
 
 
"Can I lock my 2014 Dodge Journey with the metal key, whilst the FOB is still in the car??"

Reason for the request, I have a boat with a trailer, I would like to only carry the metal key with me in the boat and not have the FOB any were near water (better safe than sorry) .
 
Yes I have read the manual, but I can only lock the drivers door with the metal key (all of the rest remain unlocked) .If I lock the car from the drivers inside door,once I close the door all the locks "unlock" and the car beeps 3 times.
 
Maybe Dodge is just playing it ultra safe so FOB is not left in car (I can understand this as if someone breaks a window they can then start the car.

Any suggestion would be apprecaited
 
Thanks
 
Gary
 

I personally hate this new format. It's terrible on my mobile.

havent had no real problems but liked the old forum better....i have a chrome desk top computer

Perhaps the manufacturers should offer a longer warranty instead of making more money on selling extended warranties. Silly me!  Then they would lose money!
 
Yes, I always buy an extended warranty but not everyone can afford that. 

When I read the opening post I decided to visit the NHTSA web site to see whether this is a common issue or not, since I don't recall reading about it here or anywhere else, for that matter.

That site is a real hoot, by the way.  So many of the complaints are clearly classifiable as 'failure to read' and 'unreasonable expectations'.

It is apparently not unheard of, the most recent complaint for a '15 being posted 2 days ago, perhaps by the OP?

The consequences of the power outage seem to often be catastrophic, because owners don't understand that without vacuum the power brakes are 'manual' and require serious effort - and the same applies to steering.

The dealer may well not be in a position to resolve the problem, because an intermittent issue that leaves no failure codes is almost impossible to diagnose.  The key may be to try and replicate the conditions and settings . . . . but I suspect this will turn out to be a loose connection *somewhere* . . . . and THAT is the problem, because there are a lot of *somewhere* places in modern CANbus vehicles.  That is one reason to get extended warranties FROM THE MANUFACTURER for any newer vehicle.

But get it on the record and try and be as complete as possible in generating your service request.  You might also want to peruse the NHTSA web site so you are prepared to deal with the 'this is the first time it's ever happened' retort that is likely to be returned.

Were you able to start it back up? Has it done it since? Have you had anyone look into the issue?

You should take it somewhere to have it looked at as that is not a good thing 

I am New here first post.
Problem Im not quite sure.
I have a 2014 Journey that I purchased in May of this year.
Four days ago I was driving on the freeway at about 55 mph and the car just shut off. Couldn't brake, turn steering wheel or put in neutruel.
I don't know whats up.
 
Could it be the push to start?
Engine issue?
Starter?
Alternator?
mind you the car battery seems to be great?
If anyone have any suggestions I would be greatly appreciated.
 
Sad
 

Possibly.  But they are where the connecting rods connect to the crankshaft; thus the lowest part of the engine.  I think that they are lubricated by oil lines aimed at them.  If they wear, piston slap means that the connecting rods are not rotating in a circular motion which causes the pistons to move back and forth within the cylinder (piston slap).  This will put undue pressure on the piston rings.  If you heard a noise, this is probably what you heard.  If you go to your Dealer, you are going to pay Dealer Labor Costs, which are usually higher than shops.  Doing a compression check entails removing a spark plug, and screwing in a pressure gauge which will give you the compression of the cylinder.  You have a 2010 R/T which probably means you have the 3.5.  To change the plugs in the 3.5, you have to first remove the intake manifold.  This is why your mechanic may not want to do this.  If your valve seals are still good, and it is determined to be the rod bearings, you may need a short block.  Let's hope that you didn't spin a rod bearing. (rotates in the block housing) = new short block. :-(