Powerz69

Looks good! Are those projectors your old MH1? Looks like you didn't have to cut the bowl for them, and your cutoff is awesome!!!

love that shroud 

Nice!!!

Just wanted to add to this because this sentence can be wrong.

"If you have OEM projectors and have put HIDs in, then you're fine as well."

It should be, If you have OEM HID projectors you can change the color [Kelvin] of a HID bulb and be good as well.

BUT if you have OEM Halogen projectors that usually takes a HIR bulb You should not be installing a HID bulb into them! Doing so could cause even more glare to oncoming drivers. Just like the pictures of the HID bulb and the Halogen bulb difference, the same is true for projectors. A halogen projector is optimized for a Halogen bulb. Placing a HID bulb into a Halogen projector will give a different focal point causing light to leak above the cutoff shield. This type of glare can be very bad as the light leak is now projected at oncoming drivers causing a more intense glare.

I see this a lot more with the Dodge trucks that have the OEM Halogen projectors. Now there is a proper way to do this as well. It involves removing the Halogen projector usually out of the back of the headlight housing and replacing it with a OEM HID projector that will fit and bolt right up.   

Running your high beams for 15 minutes or so will clear them back up. Your HIR bulbs will do the same thing but not as bad as the factory bulbs.

HIR all the way!!!

Make sure your wires aren't backwards on the LED plug side before the LED driver. 

When I installed my HID ballasts I had the same issue, the lights would shut off when I put it into gear. I switched the wires at the plug on the relay harness and that solved the lights turning off when put into gear. My relay harness only uses the drivers factory light plug, that's why both of my lights went out.

Finally got some time to take a picture of my completed MD2S retrofit

What did you use to stick them back together with? I'd use some jb-weld.

The lights at rockauto are good aftermarket lights that use butyl as a sealant. Lights with butyl are way more easy to bake open compared with the OEM lights with permaseal. You will still need to bake open the rockauto lights and paint the chrome black, and reassemble.

Do you need a RPi2 or can the B+ be used?

This is awesome!

I was looking at this same product, thanks for the negative review.

I love my XB LED fogs!Did you get the TYPE M?

I installed Philips 9011 HIR bulbs in my highbeam and there was no trimming of the bulb needed.

I took a round file, and filed a 1/2 round hole on the leading edge of the small sliding tray in the console. When the lid is closed, there is enough room not to pinch the USB cable, and the cable does not run across the top of the tray, getting in the way. I just make a big loop from the USB port, guide it through my hole, and just leave the other end in the console bin if I'm not using it. Does'nt seem to get in the way of anything, including the shifter.

I read somewhere, maybe in the manual that there is a black clip inside the console beside the USB port that you take out and run the USB cable to the front bin somehow. I looked at mine and I did find the plastic clip that comes off but I never really looked on how to feed the USB cable to the front bin.

Yes, you use the USB port in the center counsel to connect your phone. Or you can use Bluetooth to stream to your radio and plug it into the 12V socket to charge. USB is first choice, but since ios8 it doesn't really work good anymore for many. I use the Bluetooth as the USB doesn't even see my iphone 5 since I took the 8.2 update.

Sorry I've been sick and busy. Anyway since I upgraded my IPhone 5 to ios 8.2 the USB cable does not charge my phone. I have to use a the same cable and a cigarette USB charger in order for my iphone to charge now.

I just installed iOS 8.2, I'll let you know tomorrow how it works.

If you have Bluetooth turned on and it's paired, go to player and select Bluetooth. What ever music source you play on your device will play through your stereo.

Called another dealer and asked them, they said they don't put brake controllers in the journey because it is not supposed to pull anything that heavy.

This is why I'm wondering why you would need a brake controller also? A trailer with four wheels is required to have one, but that also makes the trailer really heavy. Or I just thought of the newer boats have a 4 wheel trailer is this why you would need one?

I tried hooking up with the USB again today after reading this, well my phone charges but the USB button is greyed out now. I went back to Bluetooth and I'll wait for an update.

REALLY, When I hook up to USB it plays for 1 second then stops and repeats continuously. I have a IPhone 5 and Uconnect completely stopped working for me around iOS 8.1 I think.

As mentioned you can't get that stuff using Bluetooth, the phone has to be connected through the USB input to get those features. But it it's flakey with iOS7 and broken with iOS8. I'm using Bluetooth as well until an update comes out so I can use the USB input once again.

Your DJ is looking very nice!

The extra + red wire [i'm guessing with yours] is usually plugged into the parking lights. When the parking lights are on it will dim the DRL so they are not as bright at night.

So, an HID bulb can reside in a projector housing, but they must be compatible with each other?

Do the 9005 and 9006 HIDs put out more light than Silverstars or Phillips? Are they worth the $?

Yes, you need a HID bulb that is made for the projector that you are using.

Yes they do, just a close guess but 9006 bulb is 1000 Lumens HID is around 3000 Lumens. All HID bulbs are around 3000 and up in lumens, no matter what the bulb is.

Legal projector HID bulbs are D1S,D2S,D2R,D3S,D4S, and I think H1 maybe. Everything else is Illegally made HID bulbs usually made in China.

Do you have any pictures on how you did the resistor and what kind you used?

I was just curious on what people did for headlights. I use to have a retrofitting job, so it's not new to me. Only perma headlights I have done were my Fusion and I cut them open. Thanks for the info though.

I did 2 retros on permaseal headlights one was a 06 F150 and the other was a 96 Caravan. I baked them open, each headlight took multiple bakes and around 1 hour of time to get them open. As long as you take your time knowing it will take awhile you can open them.

The TYC butyl ones that I did one was easy to open 1 bake. The 2nd one was a bit tougher for some reason it took 2 bakes. Still around 70% easier then peraseal.

So did you cut them open or use aftermarket lights?

I used aftermarket TYC lights, they were butyl. I went with the aftermarket lights just because I didn't know if a retrofit with a MD2S projector was possible. Our lights should be able to fit any projector except for the LS460. All other projectors except for the MH1 will need to be sunk into the headlight bowl, with headlight surround cut to fit shroud. The shroud needs to be trimmed to fit the headlight bowl as well. More time is needed for these installs.

The MH1 projector install is the easiest, remove headlight lens, install MH1 through bulb hole tighten up, install shroud you will probably need a shroud extender of some sort to touch the headlight bowl. Put lights back together, Align for even cutoff. I'm guessing very little cutting is needed if any with the MH1 install.

Lobitz68 can explain how to do a MH1 retro better as that's what he used for his.